Crochet Witch Gnome

A Happy Halloween was never so certain with the charm of this adorable Crochet Witch Gnome amongst your decor. With her cute dress, stylish hat, braids, striped leggings, and boots she’s sure to bewitch all who see her!

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Witch Gnome or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

If you take a good look around the blog you will see that gnomes pop up all over the place. I actually have a long list of gnomes that I hope to bring to life in the future too!

Recently I had several followers reach out to me asking if I had a Witch Gnome pattern. With Halloween coming up soon I knew that it was a good time to make their wish come true and be able to check off one of the gnomes from my list.

I hope that you enjoy making her as much as I enjoyed designing her! I’m excited to see what colors you’ll use for yours. Happy Crocheting!

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The Yarn

The Crochet Witch Gnome was designed using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft. It is a well-known and widely available yarn both online and in many craft stores, long loved by many crafters because of its softness, ease of care, and wide selection of colors.

It’s a lighter worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles including the regular simply soft solids, collection, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites, stripes, paints, speckles, camos, party, marled, and several more! Truly a wide variety to choose from for any project!

The Crochet Witch Gnome uses a variety of regular solid colors along with a couple of the Heathers in grey and charcoal. I chose to use some of the more traditional Halloween colors like orange, black (Charcoal Heather), green, and purple, but really the Crochet Witch Gnome could be made using any color scheme.

Caron Simply Soft has a super soft feel with a bit of a sheen to it which I think makes it all the more perfect for holiday projects. A little sparkle and shine make any holiday a bit more festive don’t you think?

The biggest complaint that I hear about Caron Simply Soft yarn is that it can have a tendency to split. Honestly, I must agree that this can be the case. When I first started using the yarn I had more trouble than I do now.

Once I learned how my hook and crochet style interacted with the yarn I rarely have this issue. In fact, when it comes to acrylic yarns it has become one of my go-to yarns over the years for making amigurumi.

Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Witch Gnome but note that due to variations among brands the finished size of the Crochet Witch Gnome may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. Making the Crochet Witch Gnome with different sized yarns has not been tested, but should also likely work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use mostly Clover Amour or Furls Odyssey hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• 2 – ⅜ inch (9 mm) buttons (color of choice)
• Coordinating thread (for stitching the buttons)
• Sewing Needle
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Bone OR Taupe, Color (C) Pumpkin, Color (D) Purple, Color (E) Pistachio
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (B) Charcoal Heather, Color (F) Grey Heather

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There Are Three Variations of the Crochet Witch Gnome to Choose From!

Or of course, make it your own with your favorite color combination!

Witch 1 – Green Skin

• Color (B) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 148 yds/135 m, Color (C) Pumpkin, used approx. 43 yds/39 m, Color (D) Purple, used approx. 64 yds/59 m, Color (E) Pistachio, used approx. 51 yds/47 m

Witch 2 – Bone (Tan) Skin

• Color (A) Bone, used approx. 50 yds/46 m, Color (B) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 118 yds/108 m, Color (C) Pumpkin, used approx. 52 yds/48 m, Color (E) Pistachio, used approx. 67 yds/61 m, Color (F) Grey Heather, used approx. 19 yds/17 m

Witch 3 – Taupe (Brown) Skin

• Color (A) Taupe, used approx. 50 yds/46 m, Color (B) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 66 yds/60 m, Color (C) Pumpkin, used approx. 48 yds/44 m, Color (D) Purple, used approx. 121 yds/111 m, Color (E) Pistachio, used approx. 21 yds/19 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Crochet Witch Gnome measures approximately 14.5 inches (36.8 cm) from the bottom of the shoe to the tip of the hat with it standing straight up.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds (unless otherwise noted to use joined rounds or rows), it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. 
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern. The first stitch in the new color will typically be a slip stitch to help eliminate the stair-step/jogging that occurs with color change. These sl sts are written into the pattern. A regular sc can be substituted if desired.
• Caution! If using buttons, take into consideration who will be using the item. The use of buttons is not recommended for children under the age of three or for those prone to putting things in their mouths as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted buttons or hand-embroidered Xs are a great alternative!

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loops only
• bo – bobble (3dcbo and 4dcbo described below under special stitches)
• ch – chain
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• hdc – half double crochet (including working in the third bar/camel stitch)
• invisible finish
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use the invisible decrease unless directed otherwise)
• sl st – slip stitch
• standing sc – standing single crochet
• st(s) – stitch(s)
• surface crochet
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

To create a 3dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)

To create a 4dcbo

• Repeat 1-9 of the 3dcbo
• 10. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
• 11. Yarn over and pull up a loop (six loops on the hook)
• 12. Yarn over and pull through two loops (four legs made, five loops on the hook)
• 13. Yarn over and pull through all five loops. (4dcbo completed)

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Witch Gnome!

Nose

Make 1 

Using Color (E) for Witch 1, Color (A) for Witch 2 and 3

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)

>Design Option: In the next round a wart is added to the nose using a bobble stitch. If a smooth nose is desired replace the bobble stitch with a single crochet.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 2 times, 4dcbo in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off. Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Mark the 3rd st for later reference when seamlessly attaching the nose to the body. Set aside for later.

Body

Make 1

Using Color (D) for Witch 1, Color (E) for Witch 2, and Color (C) for Witch 3

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnds 9-13: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 14: In BLO: Sc in each st around. With an additional stitch marker, mark the front loop of the 1st stitch of Rnd 13 to be returned to later when making the skirt. (48sts) 
• Rnds 15-19: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 5 Rnds) 

Switch to Color (E) for Witch 1 and Color (A) for Witch 2 and 3

• Rnd 20: Sl st in the first st (counts as a stitch), sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 21-22: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)

In the next round, the nose is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the bottom of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the 3rd st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, (>Design Note: The wart should be positioned on the top right) sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)

• Rnd 24: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the top of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into the next st on the nose from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)

• Rnds 25-33: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 9 Rnds) 

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

Main Skirt

Using Color (B) for Witch 1, Color (C) for Witch 2, and Color (D) for Witch 3

>Design Note: The Main Skirt is worked in joined rounds. The sl st to join each round does not count as a stitch. The first stitch of the next Rnd is worked in the same st as the sl st.

• Rnd 1: With the bottom of the body facing up, insert the hook into the first loop of Rnd 13 of the body (previously marked with a st marker). [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times, sl st to the first st to join. (60sts) 
• Rnd 2: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 4sts, 2hdc in the next st] 12 times, sl st to the first st to join. (72sts)
• Rnd 3: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (72sts)
• Rnd 4: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 17sts, 2hdc in the next st] 4 times, sl st to the first st to join. (76sts)
• Rnd 5: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (76sts)
• Rnd 6: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 18sts, 2hdc in the next st] 4 times, sl st to the first st to join. (80sts)

In the next round, the contrasting stitching is added to the Main Skirt.

>Design Note: Make the color change during the last step of the hdc of Rnd 6, which also means completing the joining sl st in the new color. Count the join as the first st of Rnd 7. 

Switch to Color (C) for Witch 1, Color (E) for Witch 2, and Color (B) for Witch 3

• Rnd 7: Sl st in each st around. (80sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish and weave in the ends.

Underskirt 

>Design Note: The Underskirt is worked in joined rounds. The sl st to join each round does not count as a stitch. The first stitch of the next Rnd is worked in the same st as the sl st.

The Underskirt uses the third loop of the hdc stitches made in Rnd 6 of the Main Skirt. The stitches can be found on the underside of the Main Skirt just above the contrasting stitches. Insert the hook at the center back of the Main Skirt from the edge of the skirt towards the center (see image if needed).

Using Color (D) for Witch 1, Color (B) for Witch 2, and Color (E) for Witch 3

• Rnd 1: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 10 times, sl st to the first st to join. (90sts)
• Rnd 2: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 8sts, 2hdc in the next st] 10 times, sl st to the first st to join. (100sts)

In the next round, the contrasting stitching is added to the edge of the underskirt.

>Design Note: Make the color change during the last step of the hdc of Rnd 2, which also means completing the joining sl st in the new color. Count the join as the first st of Rnd 3. 

Switch to Color (C) for Witch 1, Color (E) for Witch 2, Color (B) for Witch 3

• Rnd 3: Sl st in each st around. (100sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish and weave in the ends.

Hand and Arm

Make 2

Using Color (E) for Witch 1 and Color (A) for Witch 2 and 3

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, 3dcbo, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts). 
• Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts) 

Firmly stuff and shape the hand. 

Switch to Color (D) for Witch 1, Color (E) for Witch 2, and Color (C) for Witch 3

• Rnd 8: Working in the FLO: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts) 
• Rnds 9-17: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 9 Rnds)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts) 

Lightly stuff the arm leaving the last couple of Rnds unstuffed.

• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up parallel with the thumb. The 3sts worked in Rnd 18 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed together. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.

Shoe and Leg (One Piece)

Starting With the Shoe

Make 2

Using Color (B) for Witch 1, 2, and 3 

>Design Note: The starting stitch will change several times while making the shoe. When a new starting point is noted the other stitch marker can be removed.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnds 3-6: Sc in each st around. (9sts for 4 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 4 times, sc in the next st. (13sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (13sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st. (14sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

The next portion of the shoe is worked in rows. The new starting stitch becomes the first st of Row 1. Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in Rows.

• Row 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 6sts. (6sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
• Rows 3-5: Sc in each st across. (8sts for 3 Rows)
• Row 6: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
• Row 7: Sc in each st across. (10sts)
• Row 8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
• Row 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
• Row 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (4sts)
• Row 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)

The pattern will now return to working in Rounds.

>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease for the first stitch and then return to working the invisible decrease.

• Rnd 1: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog (mark this st as the starting st), working in the edges of the rows: sc in the edge of Row 11 back to Row 1 for 11 total sts, working in the 8 unworked sts across the toe: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, working in the edges of the rows: sc in the edge of Row 1 back to Row 11 for 11 total sts. (29sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts. (27sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts. (26sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 7sts. (21sts) 
• Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (21sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the shoe leaving the bent tip unstuffed. Continue to firmly stuff and shape the shoe as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts. (19sts) 
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts. (17sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (15sts) 
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st. (16sts)

Making the Leg

>Design Tip: There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each row. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

>Design Note: The leg is going to alternate every 2 Rnds between Color (C) and Color (B) for Witch 1, between Color (C) and Color (E) for Witch 2, and between Color (D) and Color (B) for Witch 3. The color changes (noted in bold when they occur) will happen mid-row in order to keep the color change at the back of the leg when working in the round. Alterations can be made if necessary to ensure that the color changes are not seen at the front of the leg.  

Switch to Color (C) for Witch 1 and 2 and Color (D) for Witch 3

• Rnd 11: In BLO: Sl st in the first st, sc in the next 15sts. (16sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)

Add additional stuffing up to the top of the shoe but leave the leg unstuffed as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 13: Sc in the next st, Switch to Color (B) for Witch 1 and 3 and Color (E) for Witch 2: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout during a color change), sc in the next 10sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C) for Witch 1 and 2 and Color (D) for Witch 3: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (B) for Witch 1 and 3 and Color (E) for Witch 2: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C) for Witch 1 and 2 and Color (D) for Witch 3: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (B) for Witch 1 and 3 and Color (E) for Witch 2: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C) for Witch 1 and 2 and Color (D) for Witch 3: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (B) for Witch 1 and 3 and Color (E) for Witch 2: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C) for Witch 1 and 2 and Color (D) for Witch 3: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (B) for Witch 1 and 3 and Color (E) for Witch 2: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 30: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 31: Sc in the next 4sts, Switch to Color (C) for Witch 1 and 2 and Color (D) for Witch 3: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 7sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked. (3sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Add or remove sts to obtain the needed position. 
• Cut  Color (B) for Witch 1 and 3 and Color (E) for Witch 2, and tuck the tail inside the leg. Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the shoe facing forwards, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body. 

The Tongue of the Shoe

Using Color (B) for Witch 1, 2, and 3 

Looking at the front loops that were not worked in Rnd 11 when making the boot, identify the 6sts centered at the front of the boot/leg. 

• Row 1: Insert the hook in the far right of the 6sts determined above from the bottom of the stitch up towards the leg. Starting with a standing sc, sc in each st across. (6sts)
• Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the last st. (8sts)
• Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sl st in each st across. (8sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Adding Laces to the Shoes

Optional – Make the shoes with or without laces.

Use a tapestry needle(s) and an extra long length of Color (C) for Witch 1 and 2 and Color (E) for Witch 3 to add laces to the shoes.

• Using a single needle thread a length of yarn through about Rnd 11-12 of the shoe (counted from the tip of the shoe) about 4-5 sts in length. Even out the lengths on either side and then with either a needle on each end or switching tails with a single needle, add crisscrosses to the shoes as if lacing a pair of tennis shoes. As pictured the Xs span over about 2 rows with a single row between the Xs. 
• Remove the needle(s) and tie the two ends in a bow like a pair of regular shoelaces. If desired, double knot the bow so it cannot come undone. 

• To keep the yarn tail from unraveling, tie a small knot in the extra lengths of yarn right above the desired length for the straight piece. Then trim ⅛ inch (0.3 cm) or so below the knot. 

Braids

Make 2

The Braid is made as one piece, worked in turned rows. Once constructed, it will have a top base point (2sts in length) which will be stitched to the body, and three separate strands that will be used to create the braid. 

Using Color (C) for Witch 1, Color (F) for Witch 2, and Color (B) for Witch 3

• Ch 35
• Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (34sts)
• Row 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout), turn, sc in the next 2sts, ch 33. (35sts)
• Row 3: Working in the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, twist the work at the top base point to be able to sc in the 2sts from Row 2. (34sts)
• Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 2sts, ch 33. (35sts)
• Row 5: Working in the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, twist the work at the top base point to be able to sc in the 2sts from Row 4. (34sts) 
• Fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch the braid to the body. Weave in the starting tail. 
• Braid the three strands together. Using a long length of Color (B) for Witch 1, Color (C) for Witch 2, and Color (E) for Witch 3, tack and wrap the base of the braid, leaving about a 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) of the three braided strands sticking out from the bottom of the wrap. Use a tapestry needle to weave the end back into the back side of the wrapping several times to secure it before fastening off. 

>Design Options: The braids could also be tied together using ribbon or a single piece of yarn or string tied in a bow. 

Hat

The Hat is made from the top down to the brim.

Using Color (B) for Witch 1 and 2 and Color (D) for Witch 3 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (18sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (21sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (27sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (27sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (30sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (33sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (33sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (39sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (39sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (42sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (42sts)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (45sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (45sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 7sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 30: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (51sts)
• Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (51sts)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 34: Sc in each st around. (54sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (57sts)
• Rnd 36: Sc in each st around. (57sts)
• Rnd 37: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 18sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 9sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 38: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (63sts)
• Rnd 40: Sc in each st around. (63sts)

In the next rounds, the brim is added to the hat.

• Rnd 41: In FLO: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times, sc in the next 3sts. (72sts)
• Rnd 42: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 9 times. (81sts)
• Rnd 43: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times, sc in the next 4sts. (90sts)
• Rnd 44: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 9 times. (99sts)
• Rnd 45: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times, sc in the next 5sts. (108sts)
• Rnd 46: Sl st in each st around. (108sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish and weave in the ends.

Hat Band

The Hat Band is made in rows and then seamed together to form a band. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Using Color (D) for Witch 1, Color (C) for Witch 2, and Color (E) for Witch 3 

• Ch 60

Place the hat on the body so that it’s pulled down, resting on the nose. Then ensure that the chain can go all the way around the hat close to the brim with about a 1-2 ch overlap. Add or remove chains if needed. 

• Row 1: In the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (59sts) 
• Row 2: Sc in each st across. (59sts) 

Check to see that the Hat Band is still fitting appropriately around the hat. It should be pretty taught with the ends able to touch so they can be seamed together later.

• Row 3: Sc in each st across. (59sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the band into a loop and later securing it to the hat. Weave in the starting tail.
• Making sure that the band isn’t twisted, whipstitch the two ends of the hatband together to form a loop. If planning to tack the band to the hat, weave the additional length of tail to the center back of the band to be used during assembly. 

Adding Decorative Stitching to the Hat Band

The decorative stitching is made using surface crochet. 

Using Color (C) for Witch 1, Color (E) for Witch 2, and Color (B) for Witch 3 

• In one of the top sts at the back of the band insert the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the band. Pull up a loop in the new color then proceed to surface crochet (sl st) in each st around. (59sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish and weave in the ends.
• Flip the band over and repeat the above process on the other side of the band. 

Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Witch Gnome and stitch securely into place using a tapestry needle. 

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Legs: Ensuring that they are centered with the Witch’s face, pin the legs side by side with the top of the leg at about the front fourth row of the body. Attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and along each side of the leg for a couple of rows so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.

• Arms: The arms are attached on either side of the body about 10-11 stitches away from the edge of the nose on either side, with the top point resting at approximately Rnd 19 of the body (the same color as the arm) and angled back so the back corner rests just above the skirt. The thumbs on the hands should be facing up. Look at the Witch Gnome from the front to ensure that the arms look even before stitching. Stitch the arm to the body along the top of the arm.
• Braids: The braids can be placed as desired in the front of the body or to the side and at any length desired. As pictured the top of the braids are placed at about Rnd 33 of the body (approximately 8 Rnds from the top of the body), approximately 3-4 stitches away from the nose on either side. Stitch the braids to the body along the top of the braid.    
• Hat Band: Place the band onto the hat just above the brim. If desired, the band can then be secured to the hat by invisibly tacking it in a few places throughout the center of the band with the tail left previously.
• Hat: Pull the hat down over the body so it rests on the top of the nose. If desired, invisibly tack the hat to the body in several places just above the brim and below the hat band with a separate length of yarn in the same color. Alternatively, the hat can be left removable. For a scrunched hat push the hat down towards the body with the palm of your hand and then make adjustments as needed until the desired bend is achieved.
• Buttons: (Optional) Using a sewing needle and coordinating thread stitch two buttons (⅜ inch, 9mm) centered vertically on the bodice under the nose. Alternatively, the buttons can be omitted completely or replaced with Xs like on the shoes.

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Crochet Witch Gnome Accessory Possibilities

• The broom pattern can be found HERE.
• The cauldron (aka Pot of Gold) pattern can be found HERE.
• Pumpkin patterns can be found HERE.

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!