Today I want to share the Crochet Heart Pillow with you! One of the wonderful things about Valentine’s Day for me is to see the various ways in which we all decide to show our love for that special someone in our life.
Whether it’s a significant other, a spouse, a parent, a child, a friend, or perhaps even a fur baby, we each show our love and gratitude very uniquely. Will it be chocolates? A poem? A note? A hug? A special night out?
Answers vary as wide as there are people to love, so with this variety in mind, I present today’s pattern!
Ready to Make Your Crochet Heart Pillow?!!
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The Inspiration
I just absolutely love finding fun and unique ways to spread handmade kindness in the world.
This fun design can obviously be used for Valentine’s Day, but who wouldn’t love a cute pillow with a small note and treat tucked into the pocket any day of the year?
I hope that you find many ways and many reasons to share your handmade heart pillows with those you love and those you know who could use an extra touch of handmade kindness in their lives.
Life is meant to be loved, kindness shared, and creativity to abound! Happy Crocheting!
The Yarn
The Yarn used for the Crochet Heart Pillow is the classic worsted weight, size 4, Red Heart Super Saver yarn.
It’s typically inexpensive and easy to find in stores or online. You even already have what you need in your stash! Win-win!
One of the fun aspects of this design is that it really can be created in any color your heart desires. Do you have yarn scraps? This project is absolutely perfect for using them up.
And you can make it with or without the ruffle to better fit the personality of the recipient. Again win-win all around!
Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic or cotton yarn should work well for making the Crochet Heart Pillow but note that due to variations among brands that the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, it’s important to check that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.
Update (1.27.22): I’ve had several people share their beautiful pillows made from velvet and blanket yarns, so you may want to consider these options as well.
The Pattern
Difficulty
Advanced Beginner
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size F/5 (3.75 mm)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Stuffing
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- Pins (optional)
- Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g), Color (A) Burgundy, used approx. 60 yds/ 55 m, Color (B) Soft White, used approx. 23 yds/ 21 m
- Other yarn colors seen in the pictures include Red Heart Super Saver Aran Fleck, Buff Fleck, and Charcoal.
Gauge
Exact gauge is not essential to this project, but ensure that stitches are tight enough that stuffing doesn’t show through.
Finished Measurements
Using Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm) heart pillow measures approximately 7.5 inches wide by 8 inches tall including the ruffle.
Design Notes
- The pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
- At the end of each row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parenthesis.
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- BLO – back loop only
- ch – Chain
- Rnd(s) – Round(s)
- Row(s) – Row(s)
- sc – Single crochet
- sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together
sl st – Slip stitch- st(s) – Stitch(s)
- Surface crochet
- [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
Let’s Make Our Crochet Heart Pillow!
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Back Panel
The back panel is worked from the bottom up.
Using Color (A)
Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.
- Ch 2
- Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (2sts)
- Row 2: 2sc in the next 2sts (4sts)
- Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the last st (6sts)
- Row 4: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the last st (8sts)
- Row 5: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the last st (10sts)
- Row 6: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the last st (12sts)
- Row 7: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the last st (14sts)
- Row 8: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the last st (16sts)
- Row 9: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the last st (18sts)
- Row 10: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the last st (20sts)
- Row 11: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 18sts, 2sc in the last st (22sts)
- Row 12: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 20sts, 2sc in the last st (24sts)
- Row 13: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 22sts, 2sc in the last st (26sts)
- Row 14: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 24sts, 2sc in the last st (28sts)
- Row 15: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 26sts, 2sc in the last st (30sts)
- Rows 16-18: Sc in each st across (30sts for 3 rows)
- Row 19: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 28sts, 2sc in the last st (32sts)
- Rows 20: Sc in each st across (32sts)
- Row 21: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 30sts, 2sc in the last st (34sts)
- Rows 22: Sc in each st across (34sts)
- Do NOT fasten off.
It is now time to form the upper curved portions on the heart. The right side will be created first, followed by the left.
Only half of the stitches from Row 22 will be used in making the right curve of the heart. The other half will be used to make the left curve.
Right Curve
- Row 1: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog (15sts)
Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.
- Rows 2-3: Sc in each st across (15sts for 2 rows)
- Row 4: Sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog (13sts)
- Row 5: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog (11sts)
- Rows 6: Sc in each st across (11sts)
- Row 7: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
- Row 8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
- Row 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (5sts)
- Row 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (3sts)
- Fasten off.
Left Curve
- Sl st into the middle st of Rnd 22 (Does not count as a st). The right curve and the left curve will both have a st in this space. There are 17sts to the left of the hook in which the left curve of the heart will be made.
Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.
- Row 1: Sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog (15sts)
- Rows 2-3: Sc in each st across (15sts for 2 rows)
- Row 4: Sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog (13sts)
- Row 5: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog (11sts)
- Rows 6: Sc in each st across (11sts)
- Row 7: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
- Row 8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
- Row 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (5sts)
- Row 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (3sts)
- Fasten off and weave in the ends.
The pocket is optional and allows for the ability to include a small note or treat with the heart pillow. It can be created with our without the surface crochet along the top edge.
Using Color (A)
Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.
- Ch 15
- Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each st across (14sts)
- Rows 2-8: Sc in each st across (14sts for 7rows)
- Weave in the starting tail.
- Row 9: Ch1, sc evenly around the left, bottom, and right sides of the rectangle. Add an extra sc in each corner sts if needed to nicely round the corner. Fasten off leaving an extra long tail for attaching the pocket to the back panel.
Switch to Color (B)
- Row 10: Starting in the upper right hand corner of the pocket surface crochet across the top of the pocket.
- Fasten off and weave in beginning and ending tail.
Attaching the pocket: Pin the pocket to the back panel, thread the tapestry needle on the long tail and stitch the right, bottom, and left sides securely to the panel using a whip stitch.
Front Panel
Using Color (A)
There are two options for the Front Panel
Option One: Repeat the same process used to make the back panel, however after finishing the left curve DO NOT fasten off. Skip to the Assembly Instructions to join the panels together.
This option works great if planning to add additional embellishments to the design such as embroidery or cross stitch because of the flatter surface.
>Design Note: Keep in mind that it may also be easier to add any additional embellishments before joining the front and back panels together.
Option Two: Add a bit of texture to the front piece.
Textured Front Panel
The front panel is worked from the bottom up.
The texture in the front panel is created by working in the back loop only for some of the rows.
Throughout the Front Panel when BLO is noted work in the back loop only for the entire row.
Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.
Using Color (A)
- Ch 2
- Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (2sts)
- Row 2: BLO: 2sc in the next 2sts (4sts)
- Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the last st (6sts)
- Row 4: BLO: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in the last st (8sts)
- Row 5: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 6sc, 2sc in the last st (10sts)
- Row 6: BLO: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 8sc, 2sc in the last st (12sts)
- Row 7: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 10sc, 2sc in the last st (14sts)
- Row 8: BLO: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 12sc, 2sc in the last st (16sts)
- Row 9: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 14sc, 2sc in the last st (18sts)
- Row 10: BLO: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 16sc, 2sc in the last st (20sts)
- Row 11: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 18sc, 2sc in the last st (22sts)
- Row 12: BLO: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 20sc, 2sc in the last st (24sts)
- Row 13: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 22sc, 2sc in the last st (26sts)
- Row 14: BLO: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 24sc, 2sc in the last st (28sts)
- Row 15: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 26sc, 2sc in the last st (30sts)
- Rows 16: BLO: sc in each st across (30sts)
- Row 17: Sc in each st across (30sts)
- Rows 18: BLO: sc in each st across (30sts)
- Row 19: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 28sc, 2sc in the last st (32sts)
- Row 20: BLO: sc in each st across (32sts)
- Row 21: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 30sc, 2sc in the last st (34sts)
- Rows 22: BLO: sc in each st across (34sts)
- Do NOT fasten off.
It is now time to form the upper curved portions on the heart. The right side will be created first, followed by the left.
Only half of the stitches from Row 22 will be used in making the right curve of the heart. The other half will be used to make the left curve.
Right Curve
>Design Note: The ridged texture will be on the back of the work as you work the curves. Once completed the panel will have the texture on the right side and will be ready for assembly.
- Row 1: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog (15sts)
Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.
- Row 2: BLO: sc in each st across (15sts)
- Row 3: Sc in each st across (15sts)
- Row 4: BLO: sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog (13sts)
- Row 5: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog (11sts)
- Rows 6: BLO: sc in each st across (11sts)
- Row 7: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
- Row 8: BLO: sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
- Row 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (5sts)
- Row 10: BLO: sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (3sts)
- Fasten off.
Left Curve
- Sl st into the middle st of Rnd 22 (Does not count as a st). The right curve and the left curve will both have a st in this space. There are 17sts to the left of the hook in which the left curve of the heart will be made.
Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.
- Row 1: Sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog (15sts)
- Row 2: BLO: sc in each st across (15sts)
- Row 3: Sc in each st across (15sts)
- Row 4: BLO: sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog (13sts)
- Row 5: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog (11sts)
- Row 6: BLO: sc in each st across (11sts)
- Row 7: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
- Row 8: BLO: sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
- Row 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (5sts)
- Row 10: BLO: sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (3sts)
- Do NOT fasten off.
Prepping for Assembly and Assembling the Heart Pillow
Place a stitch marker in the working loop so it doesn’t accidentally unravel and weave in all the other ends towards the center of the panel so they’re not along the edge. No need to weave them in all the way or cut them off since they can just add to the stuffing!
- If adding a pocket make sure that it’s now sewn on.
- Add any other desired embellishments.
- Line up the front and back panels with wrong sides facing.
- Pin panels together, if desired, to aid with stitching.
- Rnd 1: Insert hook back into working loop, ch1, with front panel facing forward, sc around the entire outside edge making sure to sc through both the front and back panels at the same time. Add extra sc in the same st at the bottom point of the heart to nicely round corner if needed. Be sure to add the stuffing before the hole gets too small.
>Design Tip: Take time to sc around the outer edge. Making sure that the sc are close together will help to ensure that the stuffing won’t fall out. Stitch count will vary here but I made 104sts around the outside The final number will likely vary some from piece to piece, but this can give a good indication if the sc are close enough to keep the stuffing from coming through.
>Design Note: The shape of the heart can be controlled to some degree by how densely the heart is stuffed. Also, ensure that stuffing reaches into the curves of the heart.
- Fasten off and weave in the tail unless making the border in the same color as the heart. If so, then see below and continue working in Color (A).
Adding a Border
Using Color (B)
- Rnd 1: Sc in each st around, sl st to the 1st st. Note: It may be helpful to add an additional stitch in the bottom point to help round the tip.
- Rnd 2: [Ch5, slst into the next st] Repeat as many times as needed to reach the beginning st,
- Fasten off. Weave in the ends.
Enjoy! This is definitely a project to share with a loved one! Spread kindness….and love!
Mix Things Up!
This pattern provides a great base for further exploration and creativity! There are so many simple ways to modify and adapt the design to make it unique to you and your recipient(s).
Will you make it striped, add embroidery, embellish it with ribbon, switch out colors? I’m excited to see! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, Instagram (@jenhayescreations use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!
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Looking for more great patterns?
These may be of interest! 1. Classic Crochet Cupcake 2. Small Animal Collection: Horse 3. Crochet Bobble Sheep
Copyright and Use Policy
This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using my social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you.
Jennifer says
I had to say hello cos I was a Jennifer Hayes before I married! Your work is fabulous 🧶
Regards, Jennifer Greenwell x
Jen says
How fun! It’s only by marriage that I’m lucky enough to be a Jennifer Hayes. To be honest I’m quite excited about it. 😉 Thanks for your kind words about my work. It’s something I truly love. I hope that you have a wonderful weekend! Thanks for saying hello! 🙂
EB says
Could you tell me how to make this bigger for a placemat size?
Jen says
It would be difficult to tell you exactly how to do it without making an actual pattern and going through all the math to make sure that it works properly (which could be a possibility in the future). That said, if you’re familiar with designing or modifying patterns you could take the basic idea that I have here where the rows increase on the edges until it’s the desired size and then use the same technique as I did in making the top parts of the hump. Hope that gives you some idea and help.
Jan Johnson says
Love this heart pattern! I am left handed so I am having a hard time figuring out how to modify the directions to make the left and right curves to come out correct. Any suggestion or help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Jen says
I’m so glad that you like the pattern. I’m glad to help. The left and right curves are worked the same, so I’m trying to think where you might be having trouble getting them to come out correctly. If you’d like to reach out to me via my contact page we can chat via email which will allow us to begin a conversation an then share images of where you’re at and this will likely help me to think through it more too. I’m glad to work with you until we get it figured out. The contact form is at the top of the blog or here: https://www.jenhayescreations.com/contact/
Alison says
Pattern states……sew pocket to BACK panel, surely it should state FRONT panel as shown in your photos, I look forward to your reply.
Jen says
It’s actually the back panel as the pattern states and shows in the photos. You’ll make the back panel, make the pocket, sew on the pocket, then make the front panel and seamlessly join the front and back panels, followed by adding the decorative border. All that said, if you prefer to have the pocket on the front (or both sides) you could totally do this a well.