Hello! Today I would like to introduce you to Norbin Nibbleweed the orange bearded Crochet Gnome!
He is the first pattern in a series that I will be designing and bringing to the blog called the Fairyland Creature Collection!
You’ll have to excuse Norbin if he’s a bit bashful at times. Like his other gnome friends, he prefers to be hidden deep in the forest working in his woodshop, tending to his garden, and digging underground among the earth’s treasures.
Norbin’s fiery orange beard makes him quite a bit less elusive than his other white-bearded gnome friends.
While he’s very aware of his differences he has learned to embrace and enjoy his uniqueness, even when he’s being mistaken as a leprechaun. He doesn’t mind because he’s quite a fan of Saint Patrick’s Day too!
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The Yarn
This pattern uses Caron Simply Soft. It is a well-known and widely available yarn both online and in many craft stores.
It’s a worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles including the regular simply soft solids, collection, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites, stripes, paints, speckles, camos, party, and several more! Truly a wide variety to choose from for any project!
The yarn has a super soft feel with a bit of a sheen. It is a yarn that has been long loved by many crafters because of its softness, ease of care, and wide selection of colors.
In this design, we will be using several of the Simply Soft regular solids as well as a Heather. This is a yarn that I keep well-stocked on my yarn stash shelves and reach for frequently when designing.
I do have a confession to make and I’m hoping that you can forgive me. I didn’t realize until after I had designed our friendly gnome that the Simply Soft Green has been discontinued.
I’m sorry. I’ll make sure to double-check before I start a design next time so we don’t run into this issue again. There are, however, several other beautiful greens that can be used in its place, or you can make it a different color altogether. I’m excited to see what you’ll decide to do!
The Pattern
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (These are the ones I use)
- Stitch Marker(s) (These are my favorite)
- Scissors (These are one of the pairs I use)
- Tapestry Needle (This is what I use)
- Stuffing (This is what I use)
- Chopstick, dowel, something similar to help with stuffing
- Pins (These are my favorite)
- Pet slicker brush (optional – If brushing beard) (I bought mine at my local dollar store, but the bristles look like this for reference)
- Yarnspirations Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Bone, used approx. 12 yds/ 11 m, Color (B) Green, used approx. 125 yds/ 114 m, Color (C) Off White, used approx. 37 yds/ 34 m, Color (D) Pumpkin, used approx. 15 yds/ 14 m
- Yarnspirations Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (E) Grey Heather, used approx. 38 yds/ 35 m
Gauge
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 8 rounds of the body equal 2.75 inches in diameter.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) in the sitting position without the hat measures approximately 4.5 inches. Sitting with the hat measures approximately 8 inches (not including the legs).
Design Notes
- Pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
- A size E/4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook is recommended. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing to show through.
- The pattern is written in rounds. When working in rounds it is helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
- At the end of each round the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
- Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- BLO – back loop only
- ch – Chain
- Crab st – Crab st (also called the reverse single crochet)
- FLO – front loop only
- hdc – half double crochet
- Rnd(s) – Round(s)
- sc – Single crochet
- sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (use the invisible decrease when working in the Rnd)
- sl st – Slip stitch
- st(s) – Stitch(s)
- magic circle/adjustable ring
- yo – yarn over
- [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
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Let’s Make Our Gnome!
Nose
Make 1
Using Color (A) – Bone
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2Rnds)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
- Sl st, fasten off.
- Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Set aside for later.
Body
Make 1
Using Color (B) – Green
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)
- Rnds 9-15: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 7Rnds)
>Design Note: The next several rounds (Rnds 16-37) create stripes for the gnomes shirt. There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each row. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.
>Design Tip: To help make the stripes line up more evenly by reducing jogging with each color change, work the first stitch of each round as a sl st (counting as a stitch) instead of a sc. Note however, that while this technique decreases jogging, because the color changes are made every row, a diagonal line will be noticeable. It’s a personal preference which is more desirable. Do note that with this design the hat will cover much of the body.
Alternate the next several rounds between Color (C) – Off White and Color (E) – Grey Heather, starting with Color (C)
- Rnds 16-21: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 6Rnds)
In the next round the nose is added seamlessly to the body. Continue working the stripes as well.
- Rnd 22: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)
- Rnd 23: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the nose to the body: [With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into the next st on the nose from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops] 4 times, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)
- Rnds 24-31: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 8Rnds)
Firmly stuff and shape and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 32: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
- Rnd 33: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
- Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 35: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
- Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
- Sl st, fasten off leaving a long tail for closing the hole.
- Close the hole using a tapestry needle.
>Design Tip: When closing the hole use only the front loops and move around the circle from stitch to stitch until the hole closes nicely.
Hat
Make 1
Using Color (B) – Green
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (9sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st. (11sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in the next 5 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Weave in the starting tail. It may be necessary to put the tail on a tapestry needle and pull it to the right side of the work to weave it in.
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in the next 7 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 7sts. (16sts)
- Rnd 9: Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in next st. (17sts)
- Rnd 10: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 8sts. (18sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (21sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc in the next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 10sts. (22sts)
- Rnd 13: Sc in the next 21sts, 2sc in next st. (23sts)
- Rnd 14: Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 11sts. (24sts)
- Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (33sts)
- Rnd 17: Sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 16sts. (34sts)
- Rnd 18: Sc in the next 33sts, 2sc in next st. (35sts)
- Rnd 19: Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 17sts. (36sts)
- Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 5 sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (45sts)
- Rnd 22: Sc in the next 22sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 22sts. (46sts)
- Rnd 23: Sc in the next 45sts, 2sc in next st. (47sts)
- Rnd 24: Sc in the next 23sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 23sts. (48sts)
- Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (54sts)
- Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (60sts)
- Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (66sts)
- Rnds 28-33: Sc in each st around. (66sts for 6Rnds)
- Rnd 34: Crab stitch (reverse sc) in each st around. (66sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail to join the beginning and the end of the crab stitch. Weave in the end.
Shoes
Make 2
Using Color (B) – Green
- Ch 10
- Rnd 1: Working in the back bar of the chain: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 7sts, 3sc in the last st (corner rounded), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the last st. (20sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (24sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 2sts, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (28sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 4sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (34sts)
- Rnd 5: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (34sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (34sts)
- Rnd 7: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 8 times, sc in the next 9sts. (26sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next 9sts. (22sts)
- Rnd 9: Sc in the next 7sts, hdc in the next 2sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, hdc in the next 2sts, sc in the next 7sts. (20sts)
- Rnd 10: Sc in the next 7sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 7sts. (17sts)
- Stuff and shape the shoe and continue to do so until completed but leave the back loops of Rnd 12 exposed for future use.
- Rnd 11: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
- Rnd 12: In FLO: sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Sl st, fasten off and weave in the end.
Leg
Make 2
The legs are worked in stripes. Like the body, the first stitch of each row can be made a sl st if desired to help with jogging. There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each row. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes. Leave the legs unstuffed.
Using Color (C) – Off White
- Rnd 1: Working in the back loops of Rnd 12 of the shoe, fasten on to the st at the center back of the shoe with a standing sc and sc in each st around. (12sts)
Switch to Color (E) – Grey Heather
- Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Add more stuffing to reach the top of the shoe but do not stuff the leg.
Alternate the remaining rounds between Color (C) Off White and Color (E) – Grey Heather, starting with Color (C)
- Rnds 3-20: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 18 Rnds)
- Cut the Color (C) – Off White yarn and push the tail into the leg.
- Press the tube flat so the top edges line up, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.
Hand and Arm
Make 2
Using Color (A) – Bone
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the hand. Leave the remaining part of the arm unstuffed.
The rest of the arm is worked in stripes. Like the body, the first stitch of each row can be made a sl st if desired to help with jogging. There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each row. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.
Alternate the remaining rounds between Color (C) Off White and Color (E) – Grey Heather, starting with Color (C)
- Rnds 6-17: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 12 Rnds)
- Cut the Color (C) – Off White yarn and push the tail into the arm.
- Press the tube flat so the top edges line up, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.
Beard
Using Color (D) Pumpkin
- Cut 60, 6 inch lengths of yarn (more if a fuller beard is desired, longer if a longer beard is desired).
- Holding two strands together, loop yarn lengths around the stitches onto the body. Placement: All loops are placed around a Color (E) – Grey Heather Stripe. On Rnd 21, place 4 loops directly under the nose and three loops to each side of these loops for a total of 10 loops. On Rnd 23, place 4 loops on each side of the nose for a total of 8 loops. The first loops are placed flush with the nose on either side and then move outward. On Rnd 25, place 4 loops above the nose and 4 loops to each side of these loops for a total of 12 loops. (30 total loops)
- Trim if desired. Unravel or brush yarn strands if desired.
Assembly
- Pin the legs side by side about two rows in front of the magic circle on the base of the body. Using the tail on the leg attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and then along each side of the leg for a couple of rows so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.
- Pin the arms to the body; placed at the vertical midline of the body and sewn diagonally over Rnd 16-20 with the joining seam on the underside of the arm. Stitch along the top.
- Invisibly tack the hat onto the body in several places to make sure that it doesn’t fall off.
Looking for More Great Patterns?
These may be of interest! 1. Crochet Puppy Dog 2. Simple Amigurumi Penguin 3. Ridged Crochet Feathers in Four Sizes
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Copyright and Use Policy
This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using my social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!
Thank you, he is so cute!
You’re very welcome! Have a wonderful day and Happy Crocheting! 🙂
thank you
You’re very welcome! Happy Crocheting!
Ohhhh emmmm geeee!! He is so stinkin’ cute, Jen! I am in love!!! I am a big fan of the fairyland creatures and can’t wait to see what else you come up with!
Thanks, Elise. I too am excited how he turned out. All the frogging I did to get him exactly as I had pictured was well worth it, lol. 😉 Fairyland creatures are definitely a favorite for me too and I’m excited to begin bringing more of my ideas alive. Thanks for your support. <3
This is just cute as it can be and I love that red beard!
Thanks! I’m a fan of his beard too. 🙂
Just an FYI I think on the Hat row 10 needs correcting. 🙂 should read 8 and not 6 correct?
Yes it should. Thanks for pointing that out. I fixed it. And caught another small one too. Double checking my math throughout again just to make sure I didn’t miss anything else. Thanks again. Wishing you a wonderful day!
he is adorable! This is my first time on your page, thank you so much for the pattern!
Hello and welcome Susan! 🙂 I’m excited for you to have found my blog and am so glad that you are enjoying the pattern. If you want to stay updated on future patterns and tutorials that I post to the blog I’d love for you to subscribe to my newsletter. Wishing you a wonderful day and happy crocheting!
Busy putting him together and he is just the cutest, thanks for the pattern, love it !!!
Yay! I’m so glad that you love him!
Am so glad to find a gnome pattern that is not Christmas!!! Will definitely be making several of these for “pick-me-ups” for family and friends during this difficult time!!! Thank you for bringing such a cute gnome to life!
You’re very welcome and thank you for using the pattern to spread kindness! Take care.
Cutest gnome! <3 I've already made several for friends and family.
The yarn you link to on Amazon is Caron Simply Soft Kelly Green. Is that correct? Of course colors translate differently in photos, but the yarn in your photos seems very bright for a 'kelly green'. Bright is what I'm going for, so I'm hoping to buy the same yarn you used. 🙂
Thank you for your time, and for sharing this darling pattern!
Thank you! I’m glad that you’re enjoying the pattern and hope that your friends and family are enjoying their gnomes. I have to apologize. I removed the link so that there’s no confusion. I explained earlier in the post that I sadly hadn’t realized that the yarn color I used from my stash had been discontinued. Why? I don’t know because it’s a fantastic green. It is the color “Green” that I used, not Kelly Green. Kelly Green is just the other option that I suggested as a possibility to use as a replacement. In keeping with the Simply Soft line there are a couple other greens that are brighter than the Kelly Green, but are a lighter shade of bright than the “Green” if that makes sense? They are Chartreuse and Limelight. The color Spring Green in Red Heart Super Saver is probably the closest green to the Simply Soft Green that I used, but is still a lighter shade in comparison. Those are the acrylic greens that I have physically in my stash to compare to. If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to reach out. Again sorry, perhaps we should all contact Yarnspirations and suggest that they bring back the “Green”!
I love all your gnomes, but I’m desperate to make a Pirate Doll for my grandchild, and think this pattern would be ideal, so could I ask if you could devise a pattern looking like a Pirate, perhaps with an eye patch and a sword. I’m not so clever to design those extras.
Thank you for you really great patterns
THELMA
Thelma I’m so glad that you are enjoying the patterns! I love the idea of a pirate doll. I am currently working on a couple other designs but am glad to add it to my idea list. Just keep in mind that it takes quite a bit of time to design things and prep the pattern for the blog so it may be a while. I appreciate your support!
I too am struggling with finding the perfect green!!!! Do you think Caron Pound Grass Green would work? Red Heart Spring Green seems a bit too light and bright? Thanks!
The struggle is real! I’m sorry about that. I really wish that I would have noticed it being discontinued before getting it all worked up and posted. As for your question about the Caron One Pound Grass Green, you know what, I do think that it would be a good option! It’s definitely not the same green as the Simply Soft “Green,” but it is a good medium green, not too bright and not too dark.
It’s actually one of my favorite greens, so I may be speaking with a bit of bias. That said, if you decide to go with the One Pound yarn I would stick with using it for the other colors in the pattern as well, or find another comparable worsted weight. The Simply Soft yarn is definitely a lighter worsted weight where the One Pound is thicker and the sheen difference between the two in my opinion wouldn’t mesh to use them together either. Please keep me posted on what you decide to do, I’d love to see! Best wishes and Happy Crocheting!
Omg this gnome is so cute <3 perfect explanation, ill make one for me! 🙂
I’m so glad that you like him! I’d love to see yours when you finish if you’d like to share! 🙂
I made this for my grand-daughter’s birthday. I didn’t have any green yarn, so I used shades of blue. I changed his name to Gavin Gatherdew, and he gathers dew drops for his friends, the sparrow and the chipmunk.
I absolutely love this so much! You totally brought a smile to my face. Gavin Gatherdew sounds fantastic! What a lucky granddaughter you have! Thank you for sharing and making my day all the brighter!
My son wrote a companion storybook, and I drew pictures for it. It was a fun joint effort.
What a fun collaborative and memorable project to be able to work on together!
Jen, your gnome is absolutely adorable. Love the way he is constructed and the fact that the hat actually has a head to set on. Can’t wait to see the rest of the gnomes you come up with. Thank you for sharing your creativity, your patterns and your time with all of us. Please stay safe and stay healthy. God bless you and yours and may 2021 be a fantastic year.
Thank you so much, Terri, that means a lot and I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Have you seen the Santa Gnome that I recently posted on the blog? I may also have another one coming out soon. 😉 Gnomes are a bit of an addiction for me and I’m quite obsessed at the moment, lol. May God bless you and yours as well. Take care and Happy Crocheting!
Row 9 for the shoe with 34 stitches than in row 9 sc in 9 stitches sc2tog 8 times? There’s not enough stitches
I’m a bit confused by your question, but I’ll answer what I think you’re talking about and walk through the math. You can let me know if I’m mistaken with what you’re asking. I’m looking at Rnd 6-10 of the shoes that seems to cover the stitch count numbers you’ve noted in your comment.
This is how the pattern is written:
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (34sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 8 times, sc in the next 9sts. (26sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next 9sts. (22sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in the next 7sts, hdc in the next 2sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, hdc in the next 2sts, sc in the next 7sts. (20sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in the next 7sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 7sts. (17sts)
Further explanation:
Rnd 6 has 34sts.
Rnd 7 you will sc for 9sts, [Sc2tog] 8 times (16sts turns to 8 when decreased), then you will sc for 9sts (that equals 26sts total when finished). The math to start 9+16+9=34, at finish 9+8+9=26
Rnd 8 you will sc for 9sts, [Sc2tog] 4 times (8sts turns to 4 when decreased), then you will sc for 9sts (that equals 22sts total when finished). The math to start 9+8+9=26, at finish 9+4+9=22
Rnd 9 you will sc for 7sts, hdc for 2sts, [Sc2tog] 2 times (4sts turns to 2 when decreased), then you will hdc for 2sts, sc for 7sts (that equals 20sts total when finished). The math to start 7+2+4+2+7=22, at finish 7+2+2+2+7=20
Rnd 10 you will sc for 7sts, [Sc2tog] 3 times (6sts turns to 3 when decreased), then you will sc for 7sts (that equals 17sts total when finished). The math to start 7+6+7=20, at finish 7+3+7=17
I hope that helps.
❤️ Thank you so much for this pattern, I love it! My friends got me on gnomes so I make gnomes to gift them. I always end up with less stitches after the nose, so I must be missing some as I go, but I’m having a lot of trouble with the shoes though. I was wondering do you have a YouTube channel or video of you working on the shoes? Thank you again so much.
I’m so glad that you like the pattern. I don’t currently have video, but am glad to help you. If you would like to reach out via email we can discuss your needs and exchange pics and such. You can contact me here:
Your little gnomie is amazing. I found your pattern from a FB in the Snappy Tots group. I can see making several for the little stuffie lovers in my family. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your appreciation. You are so very welcome, I’m glad that you’re here. Happy Crocheting!
I would like to make Norbin into a lovey blankie. Do you have any suggestions on how to do this?
Hmmm. I love this idea! Typically You can just take the head of any amigurumi and attach it to the center of a lovey blanket but because Norbin doesn’t have a distinct head and body this does make it a bit trickier because he is perhaps a bit big to just stitch on top of a lovey(minus the legs). What I would probably try is to begin decreasing earlier (perhaps right after the nose is added?) so that some of the “body” is eliminated. Does that make sense? The tricky part, trying to think through all this, is knowing how the hat is going to fit if the body is shortened. It’s hard to know for sure without working it up. I’d love to see how it turns out if you give it a try and perhaps I’ll play with the idea in the future too! Best Wishes and Happy Crocheting!
I crocheted Norbin but I changed his name to Fernando cuz my daughter was watching Mama Mia Here we come Again all the time & he turned out sooo cute that my daughter loves it.. I plan on crocheting the Santa & the Elf for Christmas this yr. I would love to show u the pic but don’t see where to download it…I found the pattern easy to understand & I was surprised how well he turned out..
How fun! Fernando is a wonderful name. I’m so glad that you are enjoying the patterns. There isn’t the option to share pics in the comments but you’re always welcome to send them in an email or tag me on social media if you share there.
Thank you so much! I love gnomes and this one is sooo cute. Can’t wait to make him..
Thank you for pattern they are so cute. I make two so far and give them away. I Plan making more.
How wonderful! I’m so glad that you are enjoying the pattern and spreading handmade kindness. Wishing you the very best!
Great pattern. Thanks.
You’re so very welcome. Happy Crocheting!
I have now made 5 of these adoreable dolls I actually made one with blk and white and purple a halloween theme; r
I’m so glad that you are enjoying the pattern! The Halloween one sounds so fun!
Thanks so much for the gnome pattern. Made him using red (for Christmas). Turned out great! Have you did a girl one? Would love to make a matching set.
I’m so glad that you enjoyed the pattern. I do plan on making a girl version similar to him, probably with a dress, but don’t have one made for the blog yet, so stay tuned! The only other girl gnome on the blog at this time is a witch. She can be found here https://www.jenhayescreations.com/crochet-witch-gnome/
This is hands down the easoest [attern I have ever followed and super cute
I am so glad that you enjoyed it and found it easy to follow. This makes my designer heart so happy to hear. Wishing you a wonderful day!
Thank you for the lovely pattern I am just a bit puzled at the one sided decreases on the body and how it would affect the legs which is not reflect in your lovely photos. With best wishes from Julie in South Africa
Hello! Thanks for your kindness. I’m sorry, I’m not sure that I’m fully understanding your question. What do you mean by “one sided decrease on the body”? If you go down to the images under the title “Assembly” (very near the bottom of the post) there is an image of how the legs are pinned to the body. I hope that answers your question. If not, please let me know. I’m glad to help.
I made a Christmas themed gnome. The pattern was very easy to follow. For the nose, I didn’t have a skin tone yarn so I stuffed two thickenesses of a nylon with stuffing and sewed it to the body. Then, for the hands I used the same color yarn that I used for the hat and shoes to make it look like he’s wearing mittens. Thank you so much for sharing this adorable project!
I’m so glad that you enjoyed it and found a way to be so resourceful with the supplies you had on hand. I’m so impressed. Wishing you the best.
I am making my first gnome from this pattern! I am on row 24-31 of the body where it say to sc in each stitch around for 5 rows. However, 24-31 would be 8 rows. I am wondering which directions to go by? Should I work 5 rows or the 8 to get to row 31. Thank you very much for the free pattern! 🙂
Welcome! I’m so glad that you’re enjoying the pattern. It is for the 8 Rnds. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Is the Any sl st in the beginning of the nose or any beginning part of each step
The nose is worked in the round, so no sl sts to join.
Im working on the body and its not making a circle like in the picture
It’s starts out as a circle but will turn into a tube/pill shape as the same number of stitches are worked starting at Rnd 9 onward. Is this what you’re experiencing?
I just finished row 8
Im on this part 9-15: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 7Rnds) so row 9 to 15 is 48 st what does 7rnds mean
I means that you’ll be crocheting 48sts for 7 Rounds. (9 through 15=7 Rounds)