Crochet Cat Gnome

Two Crochet Cat Gnomes, one with a beard and one with a muzzle sit beside each other with a smaller grey Cat Gnome with a purple hat sits between them.

I am so excited to introduce you to the Crochet Cat Gnome! This cute feline was so fun to design and I think that you will love making him/her too! The pattern includes two different variations, one with a beard and one with a muzzle, because options are fun and I love sharing them with you.

The Crochet Cat Gnome is also great because it incorporates an easier stitching convenience for you. I know how stitching on all of the limbs can cause consternation. The Crochet Cat Gnome has been designed so that many of the parts are seamed to the body as you go including the tail, arms, ears, and nose (if you’re making the bearded cat), leaving only the feet and the muzzle to stitch on! I do hope that you will enjoy making one and perhaps even both……..or maybe even a litter or two of each! In any case, Happy Crocheting!

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Cat Gnome or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

Two Witch Gnomes and two Cat Gnomes sitting together surrounded by decor items and yarn balls.

I have been so excited to share this pattern with you! When I began making the Crochet Witch Gnome I just knew that she needed a Crochet Cat Gnome to go with her. A witch must have her black cat as much as she has her broom!

Just like with every other pattern I design, I went through numerous ideas in my mind, sketched out several ideas, crocheted a few variations, and in the end, I must say that I’m so excited with the finished results.

Per the usual dilemma, I couldn’t seem to eliminate all the possibilities down to one single option (aka I chose not to because options are fun), so I’m sharing two fun variations of the design! I have to say that I absolutely love them both.

Have I said that I love them enough, lol? Seriously, can you choose between the two of them? I could not. Whether you make one or both of them I wish you happy crocheting and hope that you love them as much as I do!

I’d love to see your work. Shoot me an email or tag me on social media with @jenhayescreations.

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Collage images of the Crochet Cat Gnome surrounded by yarn, flowers, books, crochet hooks, and decor items. Text overlay, "Crochet Cat Gnome, Free Crochet Pattern, JenHayesCreations.com."

These Patterns May Also Be of Interest!

Three Crochet Witch Gnomes sit on varied ceramic bowls surrounded by cups of crochet hooks and yarn. — Witch Gnome

Three Crochet Witch's Brooms in a row surrounded by light and dark purple stitch markers. — Witch Gnome

The Yarn

Two crochet Cat Gnomes sitting side by side surrounded by a Happy Halloween tin, a jar of wooden crochet hooks, yarn balls, and other decor items.

The Crochet Cat Gnomes were made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft. It is a well-known and widely available yarn both online and in many craft stores, long loved by many crafters because of its softness, ease of care, and wide selection of colors.

It’s a lighter worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles including the regular simply soft solids, collection, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites, stripes, paints, speckles, camos, party, marled, and several more! Truly a wide variety to choose from for any project!

Really any and all of these options would be great for making the Crochet Cat Gnome depending on what you want your cat to look like, but I chose to stick with the traditional witch and her black cat theme.

That said, I didn’t use pure black to make my Crochet Cat Gnome. If you’re interested, this is because black yarn is harder to photograph and show stitch definition for progress pictures (the same goes for a stark white yarn), not to mention it can be harder on the eyes to crochet with. This later issue can be helped by finding a good light source and taking breaks if it’s straining your eyes too much.

That said, I use Charcoal Heather for my “black” which gives the finished piece a slightly softer look. I do the same for White, using Off White instead of a purer white. Really, in the end, it comes down to personal preference, but maybe these tips can help if you too are trying to photograph your pieces to sell.

Caron Simply Soft has a super soft feel with a bit of a sheen to it which I think makes it all the more perfect for holiday projects. A little sparkle and shine make any holiday a bit more festive don’t you think?

The biggest complaint that I hear about Caron Simply Soft yarn is that it can have a tendency to split. Honestly, I must agree that this can be the case. When I first started using the yarn I had more trouble than I do now.

Once I learned how my hook and crochet style interacted with the yarn I rarely have this issue. In fact, when it comes to acrylic yarns it has become one of my go-to yarns over the years for making amigurumi.

Like I said, in this design, I specifically chose to stick with black but really the Crochet Cat Gnome could be made in a variety of colors. I’m excited to see what you will do!

Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Cat Gnome, but note that due to variations among brands that the finished size of the Crochet Cat Gnome may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. Making the Crochet Cat Gnome with different-sized yarns can be done, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.

Woman's hand holds a Crochet Cat Gnome in grey with a white beard and a purple hat made from crochet thread.

I made the bearded Crochet Cat Gnome using Size 10 crochet thread and a 1.50 mm hook and I love how he turned out! I think I want to do this with even more of my designs in the future.

He was made using the same pattern with a few slight modifications. The tail was made without a pipe cleaner, the beard lengths were cut at 3 inches (7.6 cm) instead of 6 inches (15 cm), and 3 strands instead of 6 strands were used when embroidering.

He measures approximately 4.75 inches (12 cm) tall with the tip of the hat standing straight up.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations to share!

The Pattern

Two crochet Cat Gnomes, one with a beard and one with a muzzle, sitting on a yellow shelf along with books, a jar of wooden crochet hooks, and purple cosmo flowers.

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use mostly Clover Amour or Furls Odyssey hooks)
Stitch Marker(s)
Scissors
Stuffing
Pins
Tapestry Needle
Embroidery Floss (DMC: 413, Dark Pewter Grey for the muzzle and 818 Baby Pink for the paws)
Embroidery Needle
Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
Pipe Cleaner (in a color coordinating with the yarn for the tail)
Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (A) Charcoal Heather
Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (B) Soft Pink, Color (C) Off White

There Are Two Variations of the Crochet Cat Gnome to Choose From!

Or of course, make it your own with your favorite color combination!

Crochet Cat Gnome With a Muzzle

Crochet Cat Gnome in dark grey with a white muzzle and pink inner ears, nose and toe pads.

Color (A) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 195 yds/178 m

Color (B) Soft Pink, used approx. 28 yds/26 m

Color (C) Off White, used approx. 6 yds/5.5 m

Crochet Cat Gnome With a Beard

Crochet Cat Gnome in dark grey with pink inner ears, nose, and toe pads, and a white beard.

Color (A) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 195 yds/178 m

Color (B) Soft Pink, used approx. 28 yds/26 m

Color (C) Off White, used approx. 28 yds/26 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Crochet Cat Gnome measures approximately 10 inches (24 cm) tall with the tip of the hat standing straight up.

Design Notes

The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds (unless otherwise noted to use rows or work in the edge of a row), it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change.
The miniature Cat Gnome in the images was made using Size 10 crochet thread and a 1.50 mm hook. The same pattern is used with a few minor changes: a pipe cleaner was not used in the tail, the beard strands were cut to 3 inches (7.6 cm) instead of 6 inches (15 cm), and 3 strands of embroidery floss were used instead of 6 strands. It measures approximately 4.75 inches (12 cm) tall with the tip of the hat standing straight up.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
BLO – work in the back loop only
bo – bobble (a 4dcbo is used, described below under special stitches)
ch – chain
FLO – work in the front loops only
invisible finish
Rnd(s) – round(s)
Row(s) – row(s)
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use the invisible decrease)
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(s)
[ ]/( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as many times as directed
magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

To create a 4dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook),
Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook),
Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
Yarn over and pull up a loop (six loops on the hook),
Yarn over and pull through two loops (four legs made, five loops on the hook),
Yarn over and pull through all five loops. (4dcbo completed)

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Cat Gnome!

Two crochet Cat Gnomes sit on a wooden chair with yarn, books, and other decor blurred in the background.

Two similar, but different versions of the Crochet Cat Gnome can be made using the same pattern. One with a beard and one with a muzzle. Proceed the same for both versions unless directed to make a choice between the two options within the pattern.

Tail

Make 1

Using Color (A)

>Design Option: A pipe cleaner can be added to the tail allowing it to be positioned in a variety of ways.

Rnd 1: 7sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (7sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 7sc in 2nd chain from hook. (7sts)
Rnds 2-6: Sc in each st around. (7sts for 5 Rnds)
If using, insert the pipe cleaner and continue to crochet around it as the pattern progresses.
Rnds 7-22: Sc in each st around. (7sts for 16 Rnds)
Rnd 23: Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
Cut the pipe cleaner flush with the end of the tail. Fasten off and set aside for later.

Hand and Arm

Crochet Cat Gnome arms in dark grey with pink embroidered lined on the paws.

Make 2

Using Color (A)

Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 7: Working in the FLO: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the hand.

Rnds 8-16: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 9 Rnds)

Lightly stuff the arm leaving the last couple of Rnds unstuffed.

Press the tube flat so the top edges line up with the starting st on the right edge, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
Fasten off.
Optional: Using 6 strands of DMC 818 and an embroidery needle OR Color (B) and a tapestry needle, hand stitch three lines on one side of each hand to delineate the paws. Suggested stitch placement: Place the bottom of the lines between Rnds 1 and 2 of the paw up to between Rnd 4 and 5, each line approximately 1.5sts apart.
Set aside for later.

Nose

Make 1

Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row (doesn’t count as a st).

Using Color (B)

Ch 2
Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (2sts)
Row 2: 2sc in each st across. (4sts)
Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st. (6sts)
Row 4: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
Row 5: Sc in each st around. (8sts)

The nose will now be worked in Rnds along the edges of the triangle.

Rnd 1: Along the edge of the triangle working towards the point: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in the edge of each of the 5 rows (mark the first st as the starting st) (5sts), In the top point of the triangle: 3sc in the same st (3sts), Along the other edge of the triangle: sc in the edge of each of the next 4 rows, 3sc in the last stitch (this completes the edge, rounds the corner, and completes the first st along the next edge) (7sts), Along the longest length of the triangle: sc in the next 6sts, 3sc in the final st (9sts). (24sts total)

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in the BLO.

Rnd 2: Working in the BLO: sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 3sts, [sc2tog] 2 times. (16sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 3 times. (9sts)
Rnd 4: Sc2tog, leave the remaining sts unworked. (1st)
Firmly stuff and shape the nose.
The next step varies depending on if the muzzle or beard is being used to make the Crochet Cat Gnome.

If making the Crochet Cat Gnome with a muzzle: Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the nose to the muzzle.

If making the Crochet Cat Gnome with a beard: Fasten off, a long tail is not needed. Mark the stitch 3sts to the left of the stitch made in Rnd 4 with a stitch marker to be used when seamlessly joining the nose to the body. Leave the st made in Rnd 4 marked for reference when joining as well. There should be 4sts between the two stitch markers at the top and 2sts between at the bottom.

Woman's hand holding the nose for the Crochet Cat Gnome showing the back with two stitch markers marking two of the stitches. — **For the Cat Gnome with a beard:** The teal stitch marker on the left marks the additionally marked stitch. The coral stitch marker on the right marks the stitch made in Rnd 4.

Muzzle

Make 1, if making the Crochet Cat Gnome with a muzzle

>Design Note: The Muzzle is made in an oval shape using both sides of the ch.

Using Color (C)

Ch 6
Rnd 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 3 ch, 3sc in the next ch (finishes the side, rounds the corner, and completes the first st on the other side), working on the opposite side of the ch: sc in the next 3 ch, 2sc in the next st. (12sts)

>Design Note: In the next round an adjustment will be made to keep the oval more even while working in the round. First, a slip stitch will be used to join Rnd 1. The next stitch made should be made in the second stitch of Rnd 1 and marked as the new starting stitch of the round. The pattern will then continue as written, with the last stitches of the round being placed in the slip stitch made previously. This completes the adjustment and all further rounds are worked as written, with no joining unless directed to do so.

Rnd 2: Sl st to the first st to join, sc in the next 3sts (mark the first of these as the new starting st), 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next 3sts. (sl st +18sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (24sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in the next 3sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 3sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times. (30sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (36sts)
Sl st to the first st to join. Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the muzzle to the body. Weave in the starting tail.

Stitching the Nose to the Muzzle and Adding Whiskers

Suggested Stitch Placement:

Using a tapestry needle, stitch the nose centered on the muzzle with the top of the nose stitched to the 4th Rnd and the bottom stitched to about Rnd 1, the sides corresponding accordingly as they fall. This should leave more of the muzzle visible on the bottom than the top.

Using 6 strands of DMC Color 413 and an embroidery needle OR Color (A) and a tapestry needle, stitch three whiskers on the muzzle coming out from each side of the nose to between Rnd 4 and 5 of the muzzle, with approximately a two stitch distance between each whisker. Then stitch a line down from the bottom center of the nose to between Rnd 3 and 4 of the muzzle with angled lines projecting from the bottom point of the line to the right and to the left, ending between Rnd 4 and 5 of the muzzle.

Ears

The ears are made by first creating the Inner and Outer Ear pieces and then single crocheting them together along the outer edge.

Inner Ears

Make 2

The Inner Ears are made in rows. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row (doesn’t count as a st).

Using Color (B)

Ch 2
Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (2sts)
Row 2: 2sc in each st across. (4sts)
Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st. (6sts)
Row 4: Sc in each st across. (6sts)
Row 5: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
Row 6: Sc in each st across. (8sts)
Rnd 7: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st across. (10sts)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Set aside for later.

Outer Ears

Outer ear completed to the point in the pattern where the inner and outer ear will be joined together, a crochet hook remains in the working loop.

Make 2

The Outer Ears are made in rows. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row (doesn’t count as a st).

Using Color (A)

Ch 2
Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (2sts)
Row 2: 2sc in each st across. (4sts)
Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st. (6sts)
Row 4: Sc in each st across. (6sts)
Row 5: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
Row 6: Sc in each st across. (8sts)
Rnd 7: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st across. (10sts)
Do not fasten off. Weave in the starting tail and then continue to join the Inner and Outer Ear together.

Joining the Inner and Outer Ear Together

Woman's hand holds the inner and outer ear together with the hook inserted through both in preparation to join them together. — **Image:** Crochet hook inserted to make the first stitch to join the inner and outer ear together.

Sc the edges of the ears together:

Place the Inner Ear on top of the Outer Ear, lining up the corners with the working loop at the bottom right corner.
Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), starting in the bottom right corner sc in the edge of each row up the right edge of the triangle (8sts), place 3sts in the top point of the triangle (3sts), work 7sc down the left edge of the triangle and place 2sc in the bottom corner st to help round the corner (which is also the first st along the bottom of the triangle) (9sts), sc in each st across the bottom placing the final st in the corner st (the same space as the starting st) (9sts). (29sts total)
Sl st to the first st, ch 1, turn (neither st counts as a st), sc in the same st and in the next 10sts across the bottom of the ear. (11sts)
Fasten off and set aside for later.

Feet

Woman's hand holding the two paws for the Crochet Cat Gnome.

Make 2

Starting with Color (B)

Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (A)

Rnd 3: Working in the BLO: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18sts)

In the next round, the three top toe pads will be added to the foot using a bobble (bo) stitch. Each time it’s noted to make the bo, switch to Color (B) to make the bo, and then switch back to Color (A) for the next st.

>Design Tip: Drop or work over the non-working yarn during the color changes instead of cutting them each time. Once the bobbles are completed Color (B) can be cut and the ends secured.

Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, [bo in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 3sts. (18sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next st. (18sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (13sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the foot and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

Rnds 10-11: Sc in each st around. (13sts for 2 Rnds)
Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the foot to the body.

Body

Completed Crochet Cat Gnome bodies, one with a nose (bearded cat) and one without (cat with a muzzle). — On the left is the finished body of the Cat Gnome with a beard and on the right for the Cat Gnome with a muzzle.

Make 1

Using Color (A)

Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)

In the next round the tail is added seamlessly to the body.

Two images: Crochet hook inserted in to the bottom of the tail and the body in preparation to join them together and then the bottom of the tail seamlessly joined to the body. — **Left Image:** The hook is inserted into the tail and the body to seamlessly join the bottom of the tail to the body. **Right Image:** The bottom of the tail is seamed to the body (see Rnd 9).

Rnd 9: Join the bottom of the tail to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into any st on the tail from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops (remember to mark this as the first st of the round), continue to join the tail and body sts together for the next 2sts, sc in the next 45sts. (48sts)

Two images: Crochet hook inserted into the top of the tail and the body in preparation to join them together and then the tail fully seamed to the body. — **Left Image:** The hook is inserted into the tail and the body to seamlessly join the top of the tail to the body. **Right Image:** The tail is seamed to the body (see Rnd 10).

Rnd 10: Join the top of the tail to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next unworked st on the tail closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops (remember to mark this as the first st of the round), continue to join the tail and body sts together for the next 2sts, sc in the next 45sts. (48sts)
Rnds 11-21: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 11 Rnds)

In the next round, the arms are added seamlessly to the body. If stitching has been added to the paws it should remain facing out.

Crochet hook inserted into the arm and the body in preparation to join them together. — The first stitch of the left arm is being seamed to the body (see Rnd 22).

Rnd 22: Sc in the next 13sts, now join the left arm to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the closest stitch of the arm (with the stitched paw facing out) from the front side to the back side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 5sts, sc in the next 18sts, now join the right arm to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into the closest stitch of the arm (with the stitched paw facing out) from the front side to the back side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 5sts, sc in the next 5sts. (48sts)

Rnds 23-28 differ depending on if the muzzle or beard is being used to make the Crochet Cat Gnome.

If making the Crochet Cat Gnome with the muzzle:

Rnds 23-28: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 6 Rnds)

If making the Crochet Cat Gnome with a beard:

In the next two rounds the nose is added seamlessly to the body.

Woman's hand holding the Crochet Cat Gnome with the hook inserted into the bottom of the nose and through the body to join them together. — The first stitch of the bottom of the nose being seamed to the body (see Rnd 23).

Rnd 23: Sc in the next 26sts, now join the bottom of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the stitch of the nose marked with the additional stitch marker, from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts (the final joined st will be marked with the starting stitch marker), sc in the next 18sts. (48sts)

>Design Note: When attached the nose should be positioned with the point facing down. If this is not the case, the wrong stitches have been used when joining.

Crochet hook inserted through the top portion of the nose and the body, joining them together, a woman's hand holds the work. — The first stitch of the top of the nose being seamed to the body (see Rnd 24).

Rnd 24: Sc in the next 26sts, now join the top of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next unworked st on the nose closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 18sts. (48sts)
Rnds 25-28: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 4 Rnds)

Continuing For Both Crochet Cat Gnome Options:

In the next round, the ears are added seamlessly to the body. When joining, the ear should be upside down with the inner ear facing the body. The joining of the ear to the body will occur on the bottom 11sts of the ear to those specified in the pattern for the body.

Crochet hook inserted into the ear and the body joining them seamlessly together. A woman's hand holds the piece. — The first stitch of the left ear is being seamed to the body (see Rnd 29).

Rnd 29: Sc in the next 15sts, now join the left ear to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the closest stitch of the ear from the back side to the front side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the ear, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the ear and body sts together for the next 10sts, sc in the next 5sts, now join the right ear to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into the closest stitch of the ear from the back side to the front side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the ear, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the ear and body sts together for the next 10sts, sc in the next 6sts. (48sts)

Crochet Cat Gnome to the point in the pattern where the ears have been added. — Both ears are seamlessly added to the body (see Rnd 29).

Rnds 30-33: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 4 Rnds)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
Rnd 39: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

Hat

Witch style hat for the Crochet Cat Gnome with holes for the ears.

The Hat is made from the top down to the brim.

Using Color (A)

Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (18sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (21sts)
Rnd 13: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (24sts)
Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (27sts)
Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (27sts)
Rnd 17: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (30sts)
Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (33sts)
Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (33sts)
Rnd 21: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (36sts)
Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (39sts)
Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (39sts)
Rnd 25: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (42sts)
Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (42sts)
Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (45sts)
Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (45sts)
Rnd 29: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 7sts. (48sts)
Rnd 30: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
Rnd 31: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (51sts)
Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (51sts)
Rnd 33: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts. (54sts)
Rnd 34: Sc in each st around. (54sts)
Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (57sts)
Rnd 36: Sc in the next 14sts, ch 12, skip 12, sc in the next 5sts, ch 12, skip 12, sc in the next 14sts. (57sts)
Rnd 37: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 12sc in the ch 12 space, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 12sc in the ch 12 space, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (60sts)
Rnd 38: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (63sts)
Rnd 40: Sc in each st around. (63sts)

In the next rounds, the brim is added to the hat.

Rnd 41: In FLO: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times, sc in the next 3sts. (72sts)
Rnd 42: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 9 times. (81sts)
Rnd 43: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times, sc in the next 4sts. (90sts)
Rnd 44: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 9 times. (99sts)
Rnd 45: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times, sc in the next 5sts. (108sts)
Rnd 46: Sl st in each st around. (108sts)
Fasten off using the invisible finish and weave in the ends.

Beard

Using Color (C)

Step 1: Cut 60, 6-inch lengths of yarn (more if a fuller beard is desired, longer if a longer beard is desired).
Step 2: Holding two strands together, loop yarn lengths around the stitches onto the body. Suggested Placement: On Rnd 21: Place 6 loops under and spanning the length of the nose and two loops to each side of these loops for a total of 10 loops. On Rnd 23: Place 4 loops on each side of the nose for a total of 8 loops. The first loops are placed flush with the nose on either side and then move outward in either direction. On Rnd 25: Place 4 loops on either side of the nose above the previously placed loops for a total of 8 loops. On Rnd 22: Place the final 4 sets of loops in the stitches under the nose. (30 total loops)
Step 3: Trim if desired. Unravel or brush yarn strands if desired.

Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Cat Gnome and then stitch pieces securely into place using a tapestry needle.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

Muzzle (If using): Pin the muzzle to the body with the nose centered between the ears, the top of the muzzle sitting at about Rnd 28 (the row below the ears), and the bottom at about Rnd 17 of the body.
Feet: Pin the feet centered under the nose or muzzle with the bottom at about Rnd 8 and the top at about Rnd 12 of the body, approximately 4sts apart from the center of the two feet.
Hat: Place the hat on the body so it rests pushed down on the top of the nose (and the beard, if applicable). If desired, invisibly tack the hat to the body in a few places above the brim so that the hat cannot be removed.

Back view of the bearded Crochet Witch Gnome. — Back view of the Crochet Cat Gnome.

As always, I’d love to see your creation if you’re willing to share! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, Instagram (tag @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!

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