Crochet Bat

I’m so excited to share the Crochet Bat with you! The design is created to be made by those at a variety of different skill levels by simply choosing which yarn and techniques you’ll incorporate into your Crochet Bat creation!

I recommend sticking to the worsted weight yarn if you’re just beginning your amigurumi crochet journey and then move onto the furry yarn as you’re more advanced with your skills. Both options are so cute and so fun!

The wings also have the option of being a solid color or adding an additional step with surface stitching. It’s your bat, you decide!

Read on to learn more about my inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Bat or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

Inspiration strikes everywhere! The idea for the Crochet Bat came from seeing a bat made from a pom-pom. Do you know what I’m talking about? You may have even made one yourself. I know that I’ve made several over the years.

You know, the bats with a pom-pom body, felt wings and ears, and googly eyes? You can then play with them as they are, glue them to the top of a pencil or add a string. A classic holiday bat craft.

I had so much fun recreating the pom-pom bat in amigurumi form and hope that you will enjoy it too!

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The Yarn

Are you the type of person that accumulates furry yarns or do you avoid them like the plague?

I can understand either way. I used to be so afraid of using them but with practice and experience, I’ve gained an appreciation for them, but they do take practice to get used to.

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Need some Tips for Using Furry Yarn? Visit the blog post HERE!

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For the Crochet Bat project, I went to my yarn stash because I knew that I’d both recently purchased several furry yarns (also called eyelash yarn) on clearance and had been gifted several as well.

Sometimes when people learn that I actually like the furry yarns they give me their stash, lol. I don’t mind, I’ll take it and put it to good use!

The specific yarn I used for the Furry Crochet Bat is Lion Brand Yarns Fun Fur for the body and Vanna’s Choice yarn for the ears and wings.

The Fun Fur is a Size 5 Bulky yarn that comes in a 1.5 oz (40 g) skein with 57 yds (52 m). It takes under one skein for the body, so it’s potentially a great stash buster for that furry yarn you may already have!

The Vanna’s Choice Yarn is a Size 4 Medium worsted weight yarn. It varies in skein weight and yardage depending on the color used but is between 3-3.5 oz (85-100 g) with 145-170 yds (133-156 m). It too takes very little to make a Crochet Bat, so take a look at what you may already have on hand.

Substitutions and Additional Design Options

• As shown in the pattern, the Crochet Bat can be made using fur yarn or made fully in the worsted weight yarn. If using the worsted weight the final project obviously won’t be fuzzy unless you want to try brushing it with a pet slicker brush. In this case, outcomes may vary. I have not tested this method on this specific project.
• Any preferred brand of furry and/or worsted weight yarn should substitute well for those used in the pattern if they are equivalent in size.

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner to Advanced

Based on the choice of yarn and techniques used the Crochet Bat varies in difficulty. Fur yarns are more difficult to work with, so using a smooth worsted weight yarn makes the project more beginner-friendly. The topstitching on the wings can also be omitted, if desired, to further simplify the pattern.

Materials

• Hook: H/8 (5.00 mm) For the fur body.
• Hook E/4 (3.5 mm) For the wings, ears, and the Bat’s body in worsted weight yarn
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Pins
• Safety eyes, 15 mm
• 12 inches (30.5 cm) of 1/8 inch satin ribbon (optional for hanging)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Furry Bat
  • Lion Brand Fun Fur (5-Bulky, 100% polyester, 57 yds/52 m, 1.5 oz/40 g): Color (A) Lava, used approx. 48 yds/ 44 m
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 145 yds/133 m, 3 oz/85 g): Color (B) Dark Grey Heather, used approx. 38 yds/35 m
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 170 yds/156 m, 3.5 oz/100 g): Color (C) Charcoal Grey, used approx. 8 yds/7 m, Color (D) Fern, used approx. 8 yds/7 m
• Smooth Worsted Weight Bat
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 145 yds/133 m, 3 oz/85 g): Color (B) Dark Grey Heather, used approx. 38 yds/35 m
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 170 yds/156 m, 3.5 oz/100 g): Color (C) Charcoal Grey, used approx. 8 yds/7 m, Color (D) Fern, used approx. 8 yds/7 m

Gauge

• Using hook size H/8 (5.00 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body in Fun Fur yarn measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body in worsted weight yarn measure approximately 2 1/8  inches (5.4 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

• Using hook size H/8 (5.00 mm) the Furry Bat measures approximately 6 inches (15.24 cm) tall to the top of the ear, 13 inches (33 cm) around the widest part of the body, and 13 inches (33 cm) wide from wing tip to wing tip.
• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the worsted weight Bat measures approximately 5 inches (12.7 cm) tall to the top of the ear, 11 inches (28 cm) around the widest part of the body, and 11 inches (28 cm) wide from wing tip to wing tip.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written in rounds for the body, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. The wings and ears are written in rows.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Caution! If using safety eyes take into consideration who will be using the item. The use of safety eyes is not recommended for children under the age of three or for those prone to putting things in their mouth as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand embroidered eyes are a great alternative!

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• back bar of the ch- horizontal bar on the back side of a ch 
• ch – Chain
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Row(s) – Row(s)
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (use the invisible decrease when working in Rnds and a regular sc decrease when working in rows)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• Surface st – Surface Stitch
• [ ] / ( ) – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• * *– Repeat instructions between the asterisks as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

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Let’s Make Our Bat!

Body

• Making the Furry Bat: Use Hook Size H/8 (5.00 mm) and Color (A)
• Making the Smooth Bat: Use Hook Size E/4 (3.5 mm) and Color (C)

>Design Note: When working with furry yarn the wrong side is often fuzzier than the right side, so it may be desirable as a design preference to leave the wrong side facing out.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts) 
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnds 10-18: Sc in each st around. (54sts for 9 Rnds) 
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 22: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)

Insert the safety eyes. The suggested placement is between Rnds 11 and 12 approximately 7sts apart. If making the furry bat exact placement may be tricky. As a general guideline, the eyes should be placed above the body midline, approximately 2 inches (5 cm) down from Rnd 1. The distance between the eyes is a little over 1 inch (2.5 cm). Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.  

• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 24: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 25: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)

>Design Note: If using fur yarn continue to sc2tog until the hole is as small as possible, then proceed with the directions. If working in worsted weight yarn continue with the directions below.

• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops if using worsted weight yarn and through the full stitch if using fur yarn until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure and weave in the end.

Wings

Make 2

Using Hook Size E/4 (3.5 mm)

Using Color (B)

The wings are worked from the far outer edge in towards the body.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in Rows.

• Ch 22
• Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: sc in the 3rd ch from the hook, sc in the next 19sts. (20sts)
• Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 15sts, sc2tog, leave the last st unworked. (17sts)
• Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st. (17sts)
• Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog. (15sts)
• Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (14sts) 
• Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts. (13sts)
• Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st. (14sts)
• Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (14sts)
• Row 9: Ch 3, sc in the 3rd ch from the hook, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (12sts)
• Row 10: Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, leave the last st unworked. (10sts)
• Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
• Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
• Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st. (9sts)
• Row 14: Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st. (11sts)
• Row 15: Ch 3, sc in the 3rd ch from the hook, sc in the next 2sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (10sts)
• Row 16: Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (5sts)
• Row 17: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5sts)
• Row 18: Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st. (7sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the wing to the body.

Slip Stitching and Surface Stitching on the Wings

Using Color (C)

• Sl st along the side and top of the wings. The slip stitches are worked into the sts along the far edge and into coordinating spaces for each row along the top. For the bat’s left wing, start on the long outer side at the bottom and then along the top (pictured right in the image, red arrows). For the bat’s right wing, start along the top at the inside skinniest portion of the wing and then down the far edge (pictured left in the image, red arrows).

• Surface st the lines in the middle of the wings. For both wings, start at the middle point of the wing closest to the outer edge and surface stitch towards the top center point and then back down to the other middle point in the wing. Indicated by the blue arrows.
  • Explained: With the working loop on the hook, insert the hook at the tip of the point closest to the widest part of the wing from the right side to the wrong side of the work, yarn over, and pull the yarn through the loop. V stitches will form on the front and dashed lines will form on the back.
  • *Move the hook up about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) towards the top corner, insert the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the work, yarn over, and pull the yarn through the loop.* Repeat instructions between * * as many times as needed to reach the top point of the wing and then back down to the other point. Pay attention to the pattern being created on both sides and remove and redo stitches if it isn’t looking accurate. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

>Design Tip: To make it easier, the ends from slip and surface stitching can be woven into the actual batwing rather than the surface stitching, just be sure to weave through the middle of the stitches so that the ends do not show through on either side.

>Design Option: Instead of slip stitching and surface stitching, other alternatives include leaving the wings without stitching, hand embroidering the lines, or creating chains and stitching those onto the wings.

Ears

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in Rows.

Outer Ear

Make 2

Using Hook Size E/4 (3.5 mm)

Using Color (B)

The ears are made from the tip to the base.

Ch 1, turn at the end of each row.

• Ch 2
• Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (2sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in each st across. (4sts)
• Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st. (6sts)
• Row 4: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
• Row 5: Sc in each st across. (8sts)
• Row 6: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
• Row 7: Sc in each st across. (10sts)
• Row 8: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rows 9-10: Sc in each st across. (12sts for 2 Rows)
• Row 11: Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog. (10sts)
• Row 12: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
• Row 13: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
• Row 14: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (4sts)
• Ch 1, sc around the entire outer edge of the ear, put 3sc in the st at the top point of the ear. Crochet over the starting tail while going around, or weave it in.
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for a bit of stitching and attaching the ear to the body.

Inner Ear

Make 2

Using Hook Size E/4 (3.5 mm)

Using Color (D)

Ch 1, turn at the end of each row.

• Ch 2
• Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (2sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in each st across. (4sts)
• Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st. (6sts)
• Row 4: Sc in each st across. (6sts)
• Row 5: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
• Row 6: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
• Row 7: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (4sts)
• Row 8: Sc in each st across. (4sts)
• Row 9: [Sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)
• Ch 1, sc around the entire outer edge of the ear, put 3sc in the st at the top point of the ear. Crochet over the starting tail while going around, or weave it in.
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch to the inside of the Outer Ear.

Stitching the Inner and the Outer Ear Together

• Stitch the Inner Ear to the middle of the Outer Ear with a whip stitch leaving equal distance around the outside. Make sure that the stitching does not show through on the backside of the Outer Ear.
• Fold the bottom sides of the Outer Ear over the bottom portion of the Inner Ear until the Outer Ear stitches on each side meet in the middle. Whipstitch the bottom few rows together shaping the bottom of the ear into a point. Leave the long tail for attaching the ear to the body.

Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Bat and stitch securely into place.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Ears. Fasten the ears to the top of the body. On the worsted weight bat, this is out from the top center at about Rnd 4. Tilt the ears so they lay slightly on their side and stitch in place. The furry bat’s ears should be placed at about the same space 1.25 inches (3.18 cm) apart.
• Wings. The wings are attached on either side of the body about 1 inch (2.5 cm) down from the ear on either side.
• Ribbon Hanger. Optionally thread a 12 (+/-) inch (30.5 cm) long piece of satin ribbon through the center top with a tapestry needle, tie with a square knot, and then pull the ribbon down to where the knot is hidden inside the bat’s body. If the ends stick out they can be poked into the body with the tapestry needle or a crochet hook so they are hidden.

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Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Bat Wing Crochet Shawl 2. Crochet Candy Bunting 3. Crochet Candy Corn Cuties

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!