The Braided Bobble Crochet Bag is created by holding both a worsted and lightweight yarn together to create a mottled look. I can’t express how much I am loving this bag and how excited I am to share the pattern with you, and see what you will create!
I love the texture and class that the braided bobble design add to the front of the bag. Whether created using the mottled look or in a solid color this bag is sure to be a show stopper!
Over the last while I’ve had the strap on two separate bags that I’ve purchased from the store just break on me. I hate this. One of the times I was in a children’s hospital just walking down the hall to an appointment. The strap happened to be a beautiful wooden beaded strap. Gorgeous that is, until it snapped and the beads scattered everywhere.
I picked them all up the best I could, not wanting anyone to slip on them, and also thinking that maybe I could reassemble the strap, but I haven’t taken the time to do it. Good intentions, but it’s just not happening. Can you relate?
Sadly, well intended repairs often get put on the back burner for me. Which reminds me, I still have that shirt I told my husband that I’d mend about a month (or so) ago sitting on the sewing machine. Oops!
Since I have a VERY ample supply of yarn I decided, instead of buying yet another bag, to take on the challenge of designing my own bag! This is a double win for me and for you! I now have a bag that I love (and no more broken handles) and you have a pattern so that you can make one as well if you choose!
The Yarn
For this design I chose to use Lion Brand Mandala yarn in Chimera paired with Lion Brand Pound of Love in Antique White. I must say that I love the mottled look that’s created by holding the neutral Pound of Love yarn together with the variety of colors in the Chimera Mandala yarn. The contrast makes the colors just pop!
The Mandala yarn is an acrylic DK, light worsted, size 3 yarn that comes in cake form. It’s available in a wide variety of color combinations with multiple colors composing each cake. The bag will take just over one cake to make so be sure to grab two and look forward to using the rest in another project!
I would even recommend the Scrappy Mandala Crochet Scarf to use up that extra Mandala and Pound of Love yarn left from finishing your bag!
Whether you’re a fan of jewel tones, brights, or neutrals there is a Mandala yarn for you! I’ll be honest, I’m absolutely in love with the Mandala yarn and will be using it in more projects to come!
The Pound of Love is just as the name implies, one pound of soft squishy yarn goodness. It’s an acrylic, worsted, size 4 medium weight yarn that is available in 22 different colors. With such a large skein it’s perfect for a wide variety of projects hats, scarves, sweaters, blankets, and of course bags! I only wish that it came in more colors!
I will note that in comparison to some other worsted weight yarns that the Pound of Love, in my opinion, is slightly thinner than some. I don’t look at this as either a pro or a con, just something that should be taken into consideration when making a specific project. The bag takes just over half of the skein to make so you’ll still have plenty left over for other projects!
Update: After making several of these bags using Mandala yarns paired with various brands of worsted weight yarn (Pound of Love, Caron One Pound, Red Heart Super Saver, & I Love This Yarn) I have found that my favorite combination is probably using Yarnspirations Caron One Pound yarn held together with the Mandala yarn.
Because the Caron One Pound yarn is a slightly thicker worsted weight yarn in comparison to some of the others it gave the bag even more substance, allowing it to stand up on its own even more. The Red Heart Yarn comes in as a close second and the Pound of Love and I Love This Yarn are comparable.
That said, I love and use each of the bags that I’ve made. My main deciding factor as I make my bags is what color combination I want for the bag more than the brand of yarn. I encourage you to use what you have and enjoy and I’d love to hear your thoughts!
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The Pattern
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size H/8 (5.0 mm)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- Lion Brand Pound of Love (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 1020 yds/932 m, 16 oz/454 g) Color (A) Antique White, used approx. 574 yds/ 525 m
- Lion Brand Mandala (DK, light worsted 3-light, 100% acrylic, 590 yds/540 m, 5.3 oz/150 g) Color (B) Chimera, used approx. 701 yds/641 m – 2 cakes
Gauge
Gauge is not essential to this project, but tension should be maintained.
Finished Measurements
Using a size H/8 (5.0 mm) hook, the finished bag measures 18 inches (46 cm) across by 13.5 inches (34 cm) tall without the handles. With the handles it measures approximately 24 inches (61 cm) tall.
Design Notes
- Pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
- At the end of each round/row the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
The bottom of the bag is worked in continuous rounds while the body of the bag is worked in joined rounds. All directions are noted in the pattern. - The entire bag is created holding the Size 4 and Size 3 yarns together.
- Further design notes and tips are provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
- The weight/thickness of the worsted yarn will have an impact on the thickness and structure of the bag. Using Yarnspirations Caron One Pound or Red Heart Super Saver Solids are a good substitution for the Lion Brand Pound of Love worsted weight yarn.
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- Back bar – the straight single bar on the underside of the foundation chain
- BLO – back loop only
- bo – bobble (Pattern uses a 5dc-bo, explained below)
- ch – chain
- Crab st – also called a Reverse Single Crochet (explained below)
- dc – double crochet
- Rnd(s) – round(s)
- Row(s) – row(s)
- sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(s)
- 1tr/rf – also called a Long Front Post Treble Crochet (explained below)
- [ ]/( ) – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
Special Stitches
Bobble (bo) Stitch: The pattern uses a 5dc bobble.
- Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and draw through two of the loops
- Stop here! (two loops on the hook). One of the five legs of the bobble completed.
- Repeat steps 1-4, four more times, inserting the hook into the same stitch worked previously. Note: Each time a sequence is repeated there should be one more loop on the hook. (total of 6 loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and pull through all six loops on the hook.
>Design Note: Remember that the bag is made holding two strands of yarn together so the number of loops on the hook for each step will be double what is noted above.
Crab Stitch: The crab stitch is created just like a single crochet stitch, except in reverse, working into the stitch to the right of the hook instead of the stitch to the left. Begin the row by chaining one and then insert the hook into the stitch to the right, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.
>Design Note: It may take several stitches before the stitch pattern is clearly visible. This is a fun stitch to use for easy, decorative borders and finished edges.
1tr/rf: A raised treble crochet created on the front of the fabric by working around the post of a stitch.
- Yarn over hook twice, insert hook from the right front to the back around post of corresponding stitch two rows below the current row.
- Yarn over, pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
- [Yarn over, draw through 2 loops on the hook] 3 times
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Let’s Make the Braided Bobble Bag!
Bottom of the Bag
>Design Note: It will be beneficial to use a stitch marker to indicate the first stitch of each round, moving it up with each row completed.
Holding Color (A) and Color (B) together
- Ch 51
>Design Note: For Rnd 1 both sides of the chain are worked consecutively, starting first with the back bar of the foundation chain and then through both loops on the other side.
- Rnd 1: Working through the back bar of the foundation chain: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 48sts, 4sc in the last ch (this finishes one side of the chain, rounds the corner, and completes the first st on the other side of the ch), now working down the other side of the chain: sc in the next 48sts, 2sc in the last ch. (104sts)
- Rnd 2: [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 48sts, [2sc in the next st] 4 times, sc in the next 48sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times. (112sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 50sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 50sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the last stitch. (120sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 52sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 52sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts. (124sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in the next 4sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 52sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 52sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (132sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 5sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 54sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 54sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (140sts)
- Rnd 7: In the BLO: sc in each st around. (140sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (140sts)
- Rnd 9: In the BLO: sc in each st around. (140sts)
- Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (140sts)
- Rnd 11: In the BLO: sc in each st around. (140sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (140sts)
- Rnd 13:In the BLO: sc in each st around. (140sts)
- Rnd 14: Sc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout). (140sts)
- Do not fasten off. Continue with the body of the bag.
Body of the Bag
>Design Tip: The easiest place to accidentally skip a stitch when making the bag is right after making a bobble because the bobble often covers up the next stitch. To eliminate accidentally skipping this stitch place a stitch marker in the stitch following the bobble and then work the bobble.
Continuing to hold Color (A) and Color (B) together.
The chain(s) at the beginning of each round does NOT count as a stitch.
- Rnd 15: Ch 2, dc in the same st, dc in the next 15sts, [ch1, skip the next st, dc in the next st] 3 times, dc in the next 14sts, [ch1, skip the next st, dc in the next st] 3 times, dc in the next 14sts, [ch 1, skip the next st, dc in the next st] 3 times, dc in the next 78sts,
sl st to the 1st st to join. (140sts) - Rnd 16: Ch1, sc in the same st, [sc in the next 15sts, bo in the next ch-1 space, sc in the next st, sc in the next ch-1 space, sc in the next st, bo in the next ch-1 space] 3 times, sc in the next 79sts,
sl st to the 1st st to join. (140sts)
>Design Note: The next row includes both brackets [ ] and parentheses ( ) which both indicate repeats. The portion of the pattern within the brackets [ ] is longer and will be repeated for a total of 3 times in the given round. Within the brackets [ ] there are also parentheses ( ). When reached, repeat the directions within parentheses ( ) the number of times indicated and then continue to work until another set of parentheses ( ) is reached. The end of the sequence is noted by the end bracket ]. When the entire sequence between the brackets [ ] is worked for a total of 3 times then move onto the directions following the end bracket ].
- Rnd 17: Ch 2, dc in the same st, dc in the next 11sts, [(1tr/rf around the corresponding st 2 rows below, dc into next st) 2 times, (Ch1, skip the next st, dc in the next st) 3 times, 1tr/rf around the next corresponding st 2 rows below, dc into next st, 1tr/rf around the corresponding st 2 rows below, dc in the next 7sts] 3 times, dc in the next 68sts,
sl st to the 1st st to join. (140sts) - Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in the same st, [sc in the next 15sts, sc in the next ch-1space, sc in the next st, bo in the next ch-1 space, sc in the next st, sc in the next ch-1 space] 3 times, sc in the next 79sts,
sl st to the 1st st to join. (140sts)
>Design Note: When repeating Rnd 17 in the following rounds it may be helpful to note that the corresponding st 2 rows below can now be easily identified because it will be a raised st.
- Rnd 19: Repeat Rnd 17.
- Rnds 20-43: [Repeat Rnd 16-19] 6 times (140sts for 24 Rnds)
- Rnd 44: Ch1, sc in the same st, sc in each st and ch space around,
sl st to the first st to join. (140sts) - Rnd 45: Ch1, Crab st in each st around. (140sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail to close the Crab st. Thread a tapestry needle and slip ends through the top of the first Crab st. Wrap yarn ends around the bag’s edge to mimic the other Crab sts. Weave in the tail.
Handles
Make 2
Holding Color (A) and Color (B) together
>Design Note: The handles are crocheted between the inside 1tr/rf stitches, (where the bobbles are), on the edges of the bag. The first and last row of the handle pattern is worked over the crab stitch (Rnd 45), into Rnd 44 between the stitches rather than into them. It’s easy to lengthen or shorten the handless by increasing or decreasing the number of rows worked.
Ch 1, turn at the end of each row.
- Row 1: With the right side of the bag facing front, fasten on with a standing sc st to the right side of the bag (see design note above for placement). Working over the crab st: sc 7 more sts. (8sts)
- Row 2: Sc in each st across. (8sts)
- Row 3: Sc in the first st, in BLO: sc in the next 6 sts, in both loops: sc in the last st. (8sts)
- Rows 4-100: Alternate working Row 2 and Row 3. (8sts for 97 Rows)
- Row 101: Making sure that the handle is not twisted, place the right side of the bag and the right side of the handle facing each other with the handle positioned between the post stitches on the opposite side of the bag. Ch 1, [Insert the hook with working loop attached from the inside of the bag through to the corresponding st of the handle and sc together working over the crab st] 8 times. (8sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching.
>Design Note: Attaching the handle in Row 101 leaves a very small lip when joined. Use the long tail to stitch this down, if desired. Weave in the ends.
- Make sure that the front and the back of the bag line up, and using the front handles as a placement reference, repeat Row 1-101 to crochet the back handles.
Enjoy your new bag!
Looking for more patterns that use bobbles?
These may be of interest! 1. Crochet Bobble Sheep 2. Ode to Spring Crochet Bobble Scarf 3. Whip It Up On Top Crochet Cupcake
Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!
As always, I’d love to see your creation if you’re willing to share! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, Instagram (tag @jenhayescreations, and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!
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Copyright and Use Policy
This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using my social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!
Should I be turning or do you make the bobbles on the right side and then just push them to the right side?
Just continue working in the round, do not turn. If your bobbles aren’t automatically pushing to the front then, yes, push then to the right side. I’d love for you to share when you finish!
Hi Jen!
Can cotton yarn be used in this pattern?
I personally have not tried using cotton yarn, but I don’t see why it could not be used. Just know that switching yarns may change the overall appearance. I’d love to hear your thoughts if you decide to give it a try. 🙂
This is gorgeous! I will have to give it a try sometime when my to-do list is a little shorter!
Thank you! You’ve made my day! I totally understand the long to-do list situation. Please do share when it hits your queue, I’d love to see what colors you choose. Have a great day! 🙂
I love this bag but I think it’s a bit more advanced than I am qualified to attempt. Do you happen to have a video while making this bag?
I do not currently have a video for this pattern, but it is one that I plan to have in the future. I’m glad to try to help you if you want to make an attempt at making it.
I love this bag an have both colors of yarn can’t wait to make this , thank you for the pattern
You’re so very welcome! I’d love to see it if you’d like to share it once you finish. Happy Crocheting! 😊
Looks BEAUTIFUL, Jen. I’m going to try making it although I’m not one to take on intermediate projects. I’ll keep my eyes open for the video tutorial. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks, Cindy. I’m excited that you love it and are wanting to try it. If you give it a go before I get a video up and run into issues please don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m glad to help. Thanks for your support. Happy Crocheting!
Hi! What are the final dimensions (LxWxH) of this bag without the straps?
Also, approximately how long does it take to make the bag?
It’s hard to say how long it will take to make because there are so many factors that go into that estimation. I will say that within the pattern there are a lot of repeats for the rounds which often helps increase the speed of making it as you become familiar with the pattern.
Using a size H/8 (5.0 mm) hook, the finished bag measures 18 inches (46 cm) across by 13.5 inches (34 cm) tall without the handles. With the handles, it measures approximately 24 inches (61 cm) tall. The bag is worked in the round so the sides are not so structurally pronounced, but I’d say an approximate estimation would be about 4 inches. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any further questions.
This bag has been so much fun to create so far but I keep running into an issue on round 17. I get to the very first two treble stitches which seem to go okay but by the time I’m done with the 3 chain one segments and ready to do the second set of treble stitches they are way too close to the 3 chain one segments compared to the first set of treble stitches so they aren’t evenly spaced .
I’m glad that you’re enjoying the pattern. The two inner treble stitches should sit right next to the bobble stitches (when there are two bobbles in the round instead of one that is), with only a single dc separating the bobble from the 1tr/rf post stitch.
With the bag front facing you the first dc (on the right) would be from the dc made right after the second 1tr/rf. The dc separating the bobble from the left is the final dc made in the [Ch1, skip the next st, dc in the next st] sequence. So yes, that next 1tr/rf will be right next to the sequence.
I hope that helps. If not you can email me a picture of your work and I’d be glad to take a look at it and help you out from there.
Hi Jen, I’m confused on Row 101 for the straps. Is there a video that can help me with this? I’m not understanding how to do it because it doesn’t look right every time I try to follow the directions.
I don’t currently have a video, but I actually just added some additional images to the pattern to help visually clarify a few places. After looking at these if it’s still confusing please let me know and I’ll help you out further.
Thank you for sharing Jen. I live in Zimbabwe and it’s so hard to find free patterns. You’re really appreciated.
Thank you for your kindness. Happy Crocheting!
I’m only on the 5th round on the base. I have the right number of stitches for round 4 but I’m starting the 52 sc 3 stitches earlier than I did on round 4 – it doesn’t seem right… do I need to start again ?
If I am understanding correctly, you are right, starting the 52sts earlier is not correct. Can I ask, are you using a stitch marker to mark the starting stitch of the round?
I’m trying to trouble shoot what might be happening. Make sure that first stitch is being noted and also make sure to watch for the difference in the Rnds between 2sc in the next st AND [2sc in the next st] 2 times because this will adjust the stitch count if the repeat is missed. If it’s easier we can have a better conversation via email. You can reach out to me here https://www.jenhayescreations.com/contact/ and we can go from there to get the help you need. Email also allows you to send pictures (after the initial contact which has no attachment option) which can help me see what might be happening. Give it another go and if you’re still getting stuck let me know. I’m glad to help.
I’m just finishing row 19. I’m finding that the math doesn’t seem to be working out for me. I do the front pattern and get to sc or DC 68 or 79 and I’m way short of 140 at the end. Not sure what’s going on.
Hello! Let’s work through this together to get it figured out. It’s essentially a four Rnd repeat once the braided bobble sequences are established. Rnd 19 is the final Rnd before the 4 Rnd repeat begins. With Rnds 15-18 were you finding that the decorative bobble pattern on the front is lining up within the given sequence as well as the sc to each side of this sequence and along the back? It may be helpful to add a stitch marker right before and after the sequence to make sure all the repeats are being completed. You can see that I’ve done this myself in the image under the “Body of the Bag” title. They are a coral and blends into the bag some, but you can see what I mean. Please let me know if this helps and/or if you have additional questions. Thanks!