Say hello to the Weighted Crochet Snuggle Bunny! Like the Weighted Crochet Snuggle Cat shared earlier on the blog, the Bunny is a larger crochet piece measuring in at approximately 14 inches tall not including the ears, and approximately 31 inches around at the widest point. The furry yarn, sometimes tricky to work with, is added in a way that allows even a beginner crocheter to enjoy the project.
And if multi-sensory is something that you’re particularly interested in in a design, directions are also given in the pattern for optionally adding an additional weighted component with the use of Fairfield World Poly-Pellets, although the 2+ pounds of Poly-fil used in the project could arguably be weighted enough on its own. As a mom of a special needs kiddo, I just know that options like this are sometimes appreciated. Happy Crocheting!
Read on to learn more about my inspiration and yarn choice for the Weighted Crochet Snuggle Bunny or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.
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The Inspiration
After finishing the Weighted Crochet Snuggle Cat I couldn’t help but make a bunny as well knowing that Easter and spring were just around the corner! While this cute bunny is definitely something to be loved year-round, there’s just something about spring that gets me thinking about cute furry animals and all the flowers and veggies that will be growing in our gardens!
And when I get an idea in my head it’s inevitable that at some point it will end up being created from yarn! In fact, in some of the images, you’ll see several crochet veggies like cabbages and tomatoes that already have patterns on the blog. You’ll also see Cottage Garden Carrots and Crochet Cuisine Carrots which have been on the blog for a while, but there’s another new design to share that you’ll spot in some of the images too, the Large Crochet Carrots. I just had to do it! When you have a BIG bunny you need a BIG carrot too. In fact, it actually comes in four sizes because I also love options! I hope that you enjoy the bunny and carrots. Happy Crocheting!
The Yarn
I used two different types of acrylic, worsted weight yarn for the Weighted Crochet Snuggle Bunny. The brown bunny is made from Red Heart Super Saver Yarn and the pink bunny is made from Caron One Pound yarn. On both bunnies, the furry sections are made using Bernat Pipsqueak yarn.
Not all yarns are created the same. Due to the nature of yarns varying some between brands, even if noted as having the same weight, I did find that the two bunnies worked up to be slightly different in size with the pink bunny being marginally bigger than the brown, but the difference is very negligible. One could always change the hook size used to eliminate this if desired, but I was experimenting a bit with the yarns so I stayed with the same hook size (size E/3.5mm) while making both. All gauge and measurements in the pattern are taken from the brown bunny for reference.
Working with furry yarn. Because working with furry yarns can be tricky (find 20 tips HERE) and I wanted this design to be approachable for all skill levels (it’s marked as intermediate in the pattern but ambitious beginners are definitely encouraged to give it a try!), the furry sections are worked using a special technique. The base is first worked in the regular acrylic worsted yarn in the back loops and then the furry yarn is added afterward using the front loops. This technique makes using the furry yarns much more approachable!
Are you not wanting to use the furry yarn at all? When making the base pieces (tummy, muzzle, tail) work through both loops rather than just the back loop. This will obviously change the appearance of the bunny but eliminates the furry yarn altogether.
Substitutions. Really any brand of worsted weight yarn should work well for making the Weighted Crochet Snuggle Bunny. I would make sure that if using two different brands on the same project that they are both the same in thickness as one being thinner and one thicker could mess with the overall outcome of the completed bunny. Because the furry yarn is added afterwards it doesn’t play as big of an issue.
The Pattern
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Scissors
- Poly-fil
- Tapestry needle
- Pins
- Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing
- Worsted Weight Yarn: See below and Design Notes
Brown Bunny
- Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g), Color (A) Linen, used approx. 630 yds/ 576 m, Color (B) Aran, used approx. 150 yds/ 137 m, Color (C) Coffee, used approx. 10 yds/ 9 m
- Yarnspirations Bernat Pipsqueak (5-Bulky 100% polyester, 101 yds/92 m, 3.5 oz/100 g), Color (D) Vanilla, used approx. 95 yds/ 87 m
Pink Bunny
- Yarnspirations Caron One Pound (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, Approx 812 yds/742 m, 16 oz/453.6 g): Color (A) Pink, Color (B) White, Color (C) Black
- Yarnspirations Bernat Pipsqueak (5-Bulky 100% polyester, 101 yds/92 m, 3.5 oz/100 g), Color (D) Whitey White.
Optional Materials
If making a weighted bunny
- 2 – 8.5 inch (21.5 cm) diameter circles cut from fleece in a color coordinating with the project
- Sewing machine, thread, and supplies, and/or thread and sewing needle for hand stitching
- Poly-fil Poly Pellets Weighted Stuffing Beads, 1 pound
- Funnel to help add the Poly Pellets
Gauge
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body measure approximately 2.25 inches (5.72 cm) in diameter.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Weighted Crochet Snuggle Bunny is approximately 14 inches (35.6 cm) tall not including the ears and approximately 31 inches (79 cm) around at the widest point of the body.
Design Notes
- The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
- The majority of the pattern is written in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. The inner ears are worked in rows.
- At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
- Further design notes will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
- Note that the amount of yarn used between brands for the same pieces varied some in the completion of the bunnies based on the makeup of the yarn (some worsted yarns are thicker and some thinner from brand to brand).
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
- BLO – back loop only
- ch – chain
- FLO – front loop only
- Rnd(s) – round(s)
- sc – single crochet (both regular and standing sc)
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use an invisible decrease unless otherwise noted in the pattern)
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(s)
- [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
- magic circle/adjustable ring
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Let’s Make Our Weighted Crochet Snuggle Bunny!
Making the Weighted Insert
The following instructions will help to create the weighted insert to be placed inside the Bunny’s body. The weighted piece is optional and can be replaced by adding additional Poly-fil.
- Cut 2 – 8.5 inch (21.6 cm) diameter circles from fleece fabric in a color coordinating with the Color (A) yarn chosen for the Cat. The top of a 1.5 qt (1.4 L) glass Pyrex bowl was used as a template to make the 8.5 inch (21.6 cm) circles in the pattern. A similar bowl, plate, compass, etc. can be used to make a template. Exact measurements are not important but should be close to this size.
- Using a sewing machine sew the circles together with a ½ inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance (right sides together if applicable to the fabric, but ultimately the finished piece will be unseen within the cat so it’s not necessary), leaving a hole approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long to add the Poly-Pellets. Alternatively, the circles can be hand-stitched together in a similar fashion.
- Once the circles are sewn together turn the piece right side out so the seams are encased within.
- Using a funnel (optional, but helpful) fill with one pound of the Poly-Pellets.
- Tuck in the edge of the seam allowance left open for adding the Poly-Pellets into the piece and machine or hand stitch the hole closed.
- Set aside to be used later when making the Bunny’s body.
Body
Make 1
The body is worked from the top down with the weight added at the bottom, if using.
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
- Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
- Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (72sts)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (78sts)
- Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (84sts)
- Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (90sts)
- Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (96sts)
- Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (102sts)
- Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (108sts)
- Rnds 19-38: Sc in each st around. (108sts for 20 Rnds)
- Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times. (120sts)
- Rnd 40: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times. (132sts)
- Rnd 41: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times. (144sts)
- Rnds 42-79: Sc in each st around. (144sts for 38 Rnds)
- Rnd 80: [Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 12 times. (132sts)
- Rnd 81: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 12 times. (120sts)
- Rnd 82: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 12 times. (108sts)
- Rnd 83: [Sc in the next 16sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (102sts)
- Rnd 84: [Sc in the next 15sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (96sts)
- Rnd 85: [Sc in the next 14sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (90sts)
- Rnds 86-87: Sc in each st around. (90sts for 2 Rnds)
Firmly stuff and shape the body.
>Design Tip: The body should be firmly stuffed for it to take shape. Stuff with Poly-fil in thin even layers, pushing down the layers each time more is added. Once fully stuffed in this fashion, go in along the edges and add additional Poly-fil to further shape spots that aren’t as full and shaped. Continue to stuff until the desired shape and firmness is achieved.
Once the body is fully stuffed to this point add the weighted piece (if using) and continue with the pattern to close up the body. This should fill up the remaining space, but if needed add additional Poly-fil.
If the weighted piece is not used, continue to add additional Poly-fil and shape the body as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 88: [Sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (84sts)
- Rnd 89: [Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (78sts)
- Rnd 90: [Sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (72sts)
- Rnd 91: [Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (66sts)
- Rnd 92: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (60sts)
- Rnds 93-94: Sc in each st around. (60sts for 2 Rnds)
- Rnd 95: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (54sts)
- Rnd 96: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
- Rnd 97: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
- Rnd 98: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnd 99: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
- Rnd 100: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 101: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 102: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 103: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 104: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
- Sl st to the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for closing up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.
Ears
Make 2
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 4sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (4sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (8sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 4 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (14sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (16sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (20sts)
- Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (22sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (26sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (28sts)
- Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (32sts)
- Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (34sts)
- Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (36sts)
- Rnds 16-38: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 23 Rnds)
- Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 16sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (34sts)
- Rnd 40: Sc in each st around. (34sts)
- Rnd 41: [Sc in the next 15sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (32sts)
- Rnd 42: Sc in each st around. (32sts)
- Rnd 43: [Sc in the next 14sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 44: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
- Rnd 45: [Sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (28sts)
- Rnd 46: Sc in each st around. (28sts)
- Rnd 47: [Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (26sts)
- Rnd 48: Sc in each st around. (26sts)
- Rnd 49: [Sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 50: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
- Rnd 51: [Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (22sts)
- Rnd 52: Sc in each st around. (22sts)
- Rnd 53: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (20sts)
- Rnd 54: Sc in each st around. (20sts)
- Rnd 55: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 56: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
- Rnd 57: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (16sts)
- Rnds 58-59: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 2 Rnds)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to fasten the ear to the body.
Inner Ears
Make 2
Using Color (B)
The Inner Ear is worked in rows. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each Row.
>Design Note: Use a regular decrease when working in rows.
- Ch 2
- Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (2sts)
- Row 2: 2sc in the next 2sts. (4sts)
- Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st. (6sts)
- Row 4: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
- Row 5-6: Sc in each st across. (8sts for 2 Rows)
- Row 7: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
- Row 8: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st. (12sts)
- Rows 9-33: Sc in each st across. (12sts for 25 Rows)
- Row 34: Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog. (10sts)
- Rows 35-36: Sc in each st across. (10sts for 2 Rows)
- Row 37: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
- Rows 38-42: Sc in each st across. (8sts for 5 Rows)
- Row 43: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
- Rows 44-49: Sc in each st across. (6sts for 6 Rows)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the inner ear to the ear. Weave in the starting tail.
Tail
The tail is first made in regular worsted weight yarn and then the furry yarn is added after.
Make 1
Using Color (B)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Work in the BLO for the rest of the tail:
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. Mark the front loop of the first st of Rnd 2 with a stitch marker for later reference when adding the furry yarn. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
- Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease when working in the BLO.
- Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (60sts)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (54sts)
- Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
- Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
- Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
- Sl st to the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the tail to the body.
- Firmly stuff and shape the tail.
Making the Tail Furry
>Design Tip: When working in the front loops as directed in the pattern the first few stitches may try to sink back into the tail when trying to insert the hook. Inserting a tapestry needle or end of a stitch marker into each of the stitches as the pattern progresses and pulling them up slightly before inserting the hook may help with this. This becomes less of an issue after a few rows are completed.
Using Color (D)
- Attach to the first front loop of Rnd 2 with a standing sc (the hook is inserted into the loop from the center towards the outside edge of the tail), working in a continuous spiral sc in each of the front loops of Rnd 2-17. (660sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off. Weave in the furry ends.
Tummy
The tummy is first made in regular worsted weight yarn and then the furry yarn is added after.
Make 1
Using Color (B)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Work in the BLO for the rest of the tummy:
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. Mark the front loop of the first st of Rnd 2 with a stitch marker for later reference when adding the furry yarn. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
- Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
- Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (72sts)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (78sts)
- Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (84sts)
- Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (90sts)
- Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (96sts)
- Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (102sts)
- Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (108sts)
- Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (114sts)
- Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 18sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (120sts)
- Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (126sts)
- Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (126sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch the tummy to the body.
>Design Note: The tummy will dome as it’s crocheted in the BLO. Once completed tug on it a bit in all directions to help it flatten out some. It won’t flatten completely, but after adding the furry yarn and stitching it to the curve of the body it works out.
Making the Tummy Furry
Using Color (D)
- Attach to the first front loop of Rnd 2 with a standing sc (the hook is inserted into the loop from the center towards the outside edge of the tummy panel), working in a continuous spiral sc in each of the front loops of Rnd 2-22. (1,506sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off. Weave in the furry ends.
Muzzle
The muzzle is first made in regular worsted weight yarn and then the furry yarn is added after.
Make 1
Using Color (B)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Work in the BLO for the rest of the muzzle:
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. Mark the front loop of the first st of Rnd 2 with a stitch marker for later reference when adding the furry yarn. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 7sts, 3sc in next st, sc in the next 14sts, 3sc in next st, sc in the next 7sts. (34sts)
- Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, 3sc in next st, sc in the next 16sts, 3sc in next st, sc in the next 8sts. (38sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in the next 9sts, 3sc in next st, sc in the next 18sts, 3sc in next st, sc in the next 9sts. (42sts)
- Rnd 9: Sc in the next 10sts, 3sc in next st, sc in the next 20sts, 3sc in next st, sc in the next 10sts. (46sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the muzzle to the body.
Making the Muzzle Furry
Using Color (D)
- Attach to the first front loop of Rnd 2 with a standing sc (the hook is inserted into the loop from the center towards the outside edge of the muzzle), working in a continuous spiral sc in each of the front loops of Rnd 2-9. (244sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off. Weave in the furry ends.
Nose
Make 1
Using Color (A)
- Ch 9.
- Rnd 1: In the back bars of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st with a stitch marker as the starting st), sc in the next 6sts, 4sc in the next st (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first sts on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (20sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (24sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the nose to the muzzle.
Eyes
>Design Note: Two different options are available for the eyes. One is a simpler round eye with a fleck inside it, and the other has the addition of eyelashes. The pattern for the round eyes is the same for both eyes. The eyes with the eyelashes have a separate left and right eye pattern.
Round Eyes
Make 2
>Design Tip: Work over the tails as the pattern progresses or leave tails long enough to weave them in at the end. Either way, work over the working yarn of Color (C) when switching to Color (B), and then pick it back up when indicated in the pattern.
Starting with Color (C)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st, sc in the next st, Switch to Color (B): 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in next st, Switch to Color (C): [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times, leave the remaining sts unworked. (16sts)
- Sl st to the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the eye to the body. Weave in the other tails.
Eyes With Lashes
Left Eye
Make 1
>Design Tip: Work over the tails as the pattern progresses or leave tails long enough to weave them in at the end. Either way, work over the working yarn of Color (C) when switching to Color (B), and then pick it back up when indicated in the pattern.
Starting with Color (C)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st, sc in the next st, Switch to Color (B): 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in next st, Switch to Color (C): [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times, leave the remaining 6sts unworked. (16sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next st, ch 4, in the back bar of the ch: sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and the next 2 ch, sc in the next st, ch 4, in the back bar of the ch: sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and the next 2 ch, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (16sts)
- Sl st to the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the eye to the body. Weave in the other tails.
Right Eye
Make 1
>Design Tip: Work over the tails as the pattern progresses or leave tails long enough to weave them in at the end. Either way, work over the working yarn of Color (C) when switching to Color (B), and then pick it back up when indicated in the pattern.
Starting with Color (C)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st, sc in the next st, Switch to Color (B): 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in next st, Switch to Color (C): [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times, leave the remaining 6sts unworked. (16sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, ch 4, in the back bar of the ch: sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and the next 2 ch, sc in the next st, ch 4, in the back bar of the ch: sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and the next 2 ch, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, leave the remaining sts unworked. (16sts)
- Sl st to the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the eye to the body. Weave in the other tails.
Assembly
Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Bunny and then stitch securely into place. Remember to add additional stuffing before closing the holes to fill in the gaps as appropriate.
General placement and stitching suggestions:
- Determine which side of the body will be the front and find the vertical midline to help with placing the pieces symmetrically.
- Tummy: Fold the tummy in half finding a center point to position the tummy on the determined vertical midline of the body with the top of the tummy at about Rnd 54 and the bottom at about 6 Rnds from the bottom center of the body. The tummy is stitched onto the body using the back loops of Rnd 22.
- Nose: Center the nose on the muzzle with the bottom center of the nose sitting at about Rnd 1 of the muzzle. Stuff and shape the nose while attaching it to the muzzle. >Design Note: The tail from stitching the nose to the muzzle can also be used for creating the mouth (see below) or a separate piece of yarn can be used.
- Muzzle: Position the muzzle with the top at about Rnds 33 and the bottom at about Rnd 49, approximately an index finger’s width between the muzzle and the tummy. The muzzle is stitched onto the body using the back loops of Rnd 9. Firmly stuff and shape the muzzle while stitching. >Design Note: See Mouth below before stitching the muzzle to the body.
- Mouth: The mouth can be added before or after stitching the muzzle to the body. One option for stitching the mouth is shown in the pictures and explained, but playing with how the mouth is stitched is one way to play with the bunny’s expression. With a length of yarn (either the nose tail or a separate piece) stitch the desired mouth. Left Image: with the yarn coming from the center of the nose insert the tapestry needle into the muzzle at the desired length of the straight portion of the mouth and out at a diagonal to the left. Middle Image: Insert the needle back in the center at the bottom of the straight portion of the mouth and out diagonally to the right, mirroring the left diagonal. Right Image: Insert the needle back at the center bottom of the straight portion of the mouth completing the mouth. Anchor the tail, securing it so that the mouth cannot be undone.
- Eyes: The eyes are positioned with the top at approximately Rnd 24 of the body and the bottom at about Rnd 34, approximately 6-7sts apart at the center of the two eyes. Stitch all the way around the eyes leaving the eyelashes unstitched if using this option. >Design Note: For the round eyes without the lashes, the fleck in the eye can be positioned in whichever position is most desired.
- Inner Ears: Whipstitch the inner ear around all the edges to one side of the ear, with the point of the inner ear at about Rnd 4 of the ear and the top at about Rnd 59 (stitch just under the sts of the last Rnd of the ear).
- Ears: The ears can be positioned in a variety of different ways. In the pictures, the ears are attached to the center top of the body over about Rnd 7-13. >Design Note: While the ears can technically be positioned to be straight up they have a tendency to flop. If having them straight up is desired, adding a bit of stuffing to the base of the ear for about 10-12 rounds before attaching it to the body can help with this. The bunny images in the pattern are stuffed at the base.
- Tail: Stitch the tail to the bottom center back of the body over about Rnd 71-80, the full width of the tail sitting over about Rnds 68 -87. The bunny’s body should be able to sit on a surface without the tail getting in the way. The back loops of Rnd 17 can be used to stitch the tail to the body, but it may be difficult to see these stitches due to how the tail is cupped. Just make certain that the tail is stitched securely. Add additional stuffing while attaching, if needed.
Looking for more great patterns?
These may be of interest! 1. Crochet Puppy Dog 2. Weighted Crochet Snuggle Cat 3. Cottage Garden Crochet Bunny
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This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!
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