Stars and Stripes Crochet Basket

The Stars and Stripes Crochet Basket is sure to add the perfect touch of patriotic flair to your holiday season! Whether used to decorate your table for hosting family and friends, or in your living room as holiday decor, these baskets say festive and cute in the same breath!

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Let’s Make Our Basket!

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size I/9 (5.5 mm) 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Tapestry Needle
• Measuring Tape
• Yarnspirations Caron One Pound (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, Approx 812 yds/742 m, 16 oz/453.6 g), Color (A) Scarlet, less than 1 skein, Color (B) White, less than 1 skein, Color (C) Midnight Blue, less than 1 skein

Gauge

Large Basket: Using hook size I/9 (5.5 mm), working rows 1-5 measures 3 inches (8 cm) across

Small Basket: Using hook size I/9 (5.5 mm), working rows 1-5 measures 3 inches (8 cm)across

Finished Measurements

Large Basket: Using hook size I/9 (5.5 mm), finished width is approximately 7.75 inches (20 cm) and height is approximately 4.75 inches (12 cm) , and circumference is approximately 23 inches (58 cm).

Small Basket: Using hook size I/9 (5.5 mm) finished width is approximately 5.25 inches (13 cm), height is approximately 3.5 inches (9 cm), and circumference is approximately 16 inches (41 cm).

Design Notes

• This pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• This pattern is written using two strands of worsted weight yarn held together. I just used the center pull and outer strands at the same time, but if you find it easier you can use two separate skeins. One strand of a thicker yarn would work up nicely as well.
• This pattern is written in continuous rounds for the base of the baskets and then goes to joined rounds when doing the sides of the basket. I’ll make sure you know when this change occurs in the pattern.
• It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and to move it up as you start each additional round.
• At the end of each round I will note in parenthesis how many stitches you should have once completed.
• Exact gauge is not essential to this project, but even tension should be maintained.
• Change colors on the final stitch of the previous round to the color change by pulling the new color through the last loops of the final stitch in that row.
• When working the star stitch if you find your stitches to be too tight pull up on your yarn just a little with each step of the stitch or it may be helpful to go up a hook size for that portion of the basket.
• It was fun to learn after the fact by total coincidence, that my round glass Pyrex containers (7 cup for the large basket, 2 cup for the small basket) fit into these baskets with only just about a row extra at the top!  Perfection! It totally opens more possibilities! I love it when things like that happen!

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• ch – chain
• FPsc – Front post single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together (decrease) – see Special Stitches for instructions
• Rsc  – Reverse single crochet (also called the Crab stitch) – see Special Stitches for instructions
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• Star Stitch – per this pattern I will walk you through the instructions, see described in Rnd 18-19
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• yo – yarn over
• magic circle/adjustable ring
• [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• * – Work instructions from * as directed

Special Stitches

Half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog): (yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop) 2 times, yo, pull through all five loops on the hook

Reverse single crochet or crab stitch (Rsc): Insert hook from front to back in the stitch to the right of your hook (this is in the opposite direction you would normally crochet in, if right handed)  yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook. (Essentially, you’re doing a single crochet but working to the right instead of the usual left).

Star Stitch – Explained in Rnds 18-19

For the Large Basket

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 7sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (7sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 7sc in 2nd chain from hook. (7sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (14sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (21sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (28sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (35sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (42sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (49sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (56sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (63sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (70sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (77sts)
• Rnd 12: FPsc in each st around, sl st to the 1st sc (77sts)

Continuing in Color (A), we will begin to work in joined rounds.

• Rnd 13: Ch1, sc in the same st and in each st around, sl st to the 1st sc (77sts)
• Rnd 14: Repeat Rnd 13 (77sts)
• Rnd 15: Ch1, FPsc in each st around, sl st to the 1st st ( 77sts)
• Rnds 16-17: Repeat Rnd 13 (77sts for 2 Rnds)

Switch to Color (B)

>Design Note: We’re going to now be making the star stitch. I’ve written the pattern below for the star stitch in Rnds 18-19 as if we are working with one strand of yarn to help eliminate confusion for those familiar with the stitch and if you’ve chosen to use only one strand of yarn. That said, remember, if working with two strands held together, that the number of loops on the hook noted below in parenthesis will actually be doubled because of the two strands.

• Rnd 18: Ch3, insert hook in the 2nd ch from the hook and pull up a loop (2 loops on the hook), insert hook in the next ch space and pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook), insert hook in each of the next 3 base sts and pull up a loop each time (6 loops on the hook. Note: each of these loops will create a “spike” on your star when closed), yo, draw through all 6 loops, ch1 (this ch1 does a couple things. It closes the star and creates what we will call the “eye” which we will be working into in a moment to create the next star, so it’s good to note), *insert hook into the eye and pull up a loop (2 loops on the hook), insert hook into the space between the last two “spikes,” yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook), insert hook into the same space where the last stitch (“spike”) of the previous star was worked and pull up a loop (4 loops on the hook), insert hook in each of the next 2 sts and pull up a loop each time (6 loops on the hook). Repeat from * around.
• I’ll now teach you a trick to closing up the round, eliminating the gap that is created if you were to just slip stitching to the top of the ch3 at the end of the round. It doesn’t mimic the star stitch perfectly, but like I said, removes the gap and is my preferred method. Try it! Let me know what you think! If you don’t like how it looks then you can go with the sl st method instead! Okay, let’s do this! Insert hook into the eye of the stitch and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into the sl st from the previous round and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo and draw through all 3 loops on the hook, sl st into the top of the ch 3.

See! You can tell slightly where the seam is like you normally can with a project, but there’s no gap!

• Rnd 19: Ch 2, 2hdc in the eye of each st around. Okay, let’s close the gap again. This time do a hdc2tog (using the st made from closing the gap in Rnd18 and the sl st), sl st to join. Note: If you chose just to sl st in Rnd 18 rather than eliminating the gap, then just sl st to finish this round off as well.
• Rnd 20: Repeat Rnd 18
• Rnd 21: Repeat Rnd 19

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 22: Ch1, sc in the next st, skip the 1st st (don’t sc in the same as we’ve done before), sc in each st around, sl st to the 1st st (77sts)
• Rnd 23: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next 14sts, ch11, skip 11sts, sc in the next 28 sts, ch11, skip 11 sts, sc in the next 13sts, sl st to the 1st (77sts)
• Rnd 24: Rsc in the next 13sts, Rsc 11 in the ch sp, Rsc in the next 28sts, Rsc 11 in the ch sp, Rsc the next 14sts
• Fasten off.  Thread tapestry needle and slip ends through top of first Rsc. Wrap yarn ends around edge to mimic the other Rsc
• Weave in ends

For the Small Basket

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 7sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (7sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 7sc in 2nd chain from hook. (7sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (14sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (21sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (28sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (35sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (42sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sc, 2sc in next st] 7 times (49sts)
• Rnd 8: FPsc in each st around, sl st to the 1st sc (49sts)

Continuing in Color (A), we will begin to work in joined rounds.

• Rnds 9-10: Ch1, sc in the same st and in each st around, sl st to the 1st sc (49sts)
• Rnd 11: Ch1, FPsc in each st around, sl st to the 1st st ( 49sts)
• Rnd 12: Ch1, sc in the same st and in each st around, sl st to the 1st sc (49sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 13: Ch3, insert hook in the 2nd ch from the hook and pull up a loop (2 loops on the hook), insert hook in the next ch space and pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook), insert hook in each of the next 3 base sts and pull up a loop each time (6 loops on the hook. Note: each of these loops will create a “spike” on your star when closed), yo, draw through all 6 loops, ch1 (this ch1 does a couple things. It closes the star and creates what we will call the “eye” which we will be working into in a moment to create the next star, so it’s good to note), *insert hook into the eye and pull up a loop (2 loops on the hook), insert hook into the space between the last two “spikes,” yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook), insert hook into the same space where the last stitch (“spike”) of the previous star was worked and pull up a loop (4 loops on the hook), insert hook in each of the next 2 sts and pull up a loop each time (6 loops on the hook). Repeat from * around.
• I’ll now teach you a trick to closing up the round, eliminating the gap that is created if you were to just slip stitching to the top of the ch3 at the end of the round. It doesn’t mimic the star stitch perfectly, but like I said, removes the gap and is my preferred method. Try it! Let me know what you think! If you don’t like how it looks then you can go with the sl st method instead! Okay, let’s do this! Insert hook into the eye of the stitch and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into the sl st from the previous round and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo and draw through all 3 loops on the hook, sl st into the top of the ch 3.

• Rnd 14: Ch 1, 2hdc in the eye of each st around. Okay, let’s close the gap again. This time do a hdc2tog (using the st made from closing the gap in Rnd18 and the sl st), sl st to join. Note: If you chose just to sl st in Rnd 18 rather than eliminating the gap, then just sl st to finish this round off as well.

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 15: Ch1, sc in the next st, skip the 1st st (don’t sc in the same as we’ve done before), sc in each st around, sl st to the 1st st (50sts)
• Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next 8sts, ch7, skip 7sts, sc in the next 18 sts, ch7, skip 7 sts, sc in the next 9sts, sl st to the 1st (77sts)
• Rnd 17: Rsc in the next 9sts, Rsc 7 in the ch sp, Rsc in the next 18sts, Rsc 7 in the ch sp, Rsc the next 7sts
• Fasten off.  Thread tapestry needle and slip ends through top of first Rsc. Wrap yarn ends around edge to mimic the other Rsc
• Weave in ends

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Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Simple Amigurumi Penguin 2. Crochet Bobble Sheep 3. Simple Crochet Treat Basket

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