Spiked Stitch Crochet Basket

Today I’m really excited to share the Spiked Stitch Crochet Basket with you! Read on to learn about my inspiration and yarn choices, or scroll to the bottom to find the pattern for your viewing and creating pleasure!

---

Already Have Something on Your Hook?

---

Prefer an Ad-Free PDF?

Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Please see the disclosure page if you would like further details.

---

The Inspiration

Let me first say that this design while new to the blog is not new to our home. In fact it’s been hanging around here for several years! Not these specific baskets pictured here in the post (I reworked the design again to make sure that I had it all written out properly for you!), but baskets made with the same design. Each of my kiddos have their own basket that has visited several egg hunts and been filled with a variety of Easter treats over the years. So many memories!

I hadn’t thought about sharing the design until I was working on some computer work for the blog and came across a picture of the baskets and gasped when I realized that I hadn’t yet shared this design with you. How could that possibly be?!! That would need to be remedied!

Now I know that Easter is really soon but it pained me a little to think of waiting a whole other year before I shared this with you, so here you have it whether you fit them in this year or for next year the pattern is now in your hands! And honestly, they do work up pretty quickly. It is all single crochet so not as fast as something in double crochet, but forty two rows and a handle and you’re done!

And I should note that this basket really can be used year round so I still could have arguably shared it at any time (and I really do hope that you’ll find multiple year round uses for the basket), but you know how sometimes you get something in your head like this is our Easter basket and should therefore be shared at Easter time and you can’t shake it? Anyone? I doubt that I’m alone on this. Just so happy to be sharing it with you!

And as a small side note, if you do plan to use this to hold Easter eggs, it may be helpful to note that they hold about 25 of the regular sized plastic eggs reaching the brim of the basket.

---

The Yarn

For this specific design I went to my yarn stash and picked out several color combinations that I liked in various yarn brands and in the end felt happiest with the color combinations that I had using Red Heart Super Saver yarn, so that’s what I went with this time.

It really doesn’t take a lot of yarn to make a basket so you could really even look at what scrap yarn you have on hand and utilize this. Scrap yarn usage for the win!

You can find the specific yarn amounts used noted in the materials section below within the pattern if you’re curious to know if you might already have enough on hand.

I do recommend using a worsted weight yarn to make the basket as sturdy as possible. As written it stands by itself without adding any supports to it. With all that said, the pattern is now in your hands to discover what you think is best! Let me know what you think or if you’ve found other yarns that you enjoyed using to make your basket!

---

The Pattern

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size G/6 (4.0 mm)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle
• Pins (optional)
• Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g): Color (A) Charcoal, used approx. 96 yds/88 m, Color (B) Baby Pink OR Pale Yellow, used approx. 36 yds/33 m, Color (C) Light Blue OR Pale Plum, used approx. 42 yds/ 38 m

Gauge

Using hook size G/6 (4.0 mm) Round 1-9 are 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter

Finished Measurements

Using hook size G/6 (4.0 mm) from the base to the top of the basket it measures approximately 5 inches (13 cm) tall without the handle, 10 inches (25 cm) tall with the handle, 6.25 inches (16 cm) in diameter, and 21 inches (53 cm) in circumference.

Design Notes

• Pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• Pattern is written using continuous rounds, joined rounds, and rows. The pattern will note what technique should be used where.
• It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and to move it up at the start each additional round.
• At the end of each round/row the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• BLO – back loop(s) only
• ch – Chain
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Rows – Rows
• sc – Single crochet
• sl st – Slip stitch
• SP1, SP2 – spike stitch – See special stitches below
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

Spike Stitch (SP1, SP2, etc): (also sometimes referred to as the single crochet spike, elongated single crochet, long single crochet, and deep single crochet) Work the spike stitch like a regular single crochet stitch but instead of working in the current row insert the hook into the indicated row (this is the number following the SP) directly below the stitch to be worked and pull the yarn up to reach the height of the current row. The further down the hook is inserted the longer the spike will be. In this pattern the longest spike created is a SP2.

For example, SP2 = Insert hook into next st two rows below current row, yarn over, draw up a loop (all the way to the height of the current row), yarn over, pull through both loops on the hook.

---

Prefer an Ad-Free PDF?

---

Save the Pattern for Later!

---

Let’s Make Our Spiked Stitch Basket!

Making the Base

Using Color (A) and working in a continuous round

• Rnd 1: 8sc in adjustable (magic) circle (8sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (16sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 8 times (24sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 8 times (32sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in the next sc] 8 times (40sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in the next sc] 8 times (48sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sc, 2sc in the next sc] 8 times (56sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sc, 2sc in next st] 8 times (64sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sc, 2sc in the next sc] 8 times (72sts)

>Design Note: At this point the circle measures 4 inches in diameter.

• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sc, 2sc in the next sc] 8 times (80sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sc, 2sc in the next sc] 8 times (88sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 10sc, 2sc in the next sc] 8 times (96sts)

Making the Wall of the Basket

It’s now time to make the wall of the basket. This section will be worked in invisible joined rows so that the spiked stitches line up better in every row.

(Learn more about making the Invisible Join and Invisible Finish used in this project HERE.)

When making color changes they are made like a regular color change on the final step of the last stitch prior to the designated color change.

Change colors in this last stitch and then join to the first stitch and chain one (doesn’t count as a st) in the new color and continue working until the next color change is noted.

Continuing with Color (A)

• Rnd 13: Working in BLO: sc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join (96sts)
• Rnd 14: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout), sc in the same st, sc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join (96sts)
• Rnds 15-16: Repeat Rnd 14 (96sts for 2 Rnds)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 17: Ch1, [Sc in the next 2sts, SP1, sc in the next 2sts, SP2] 16 times, sl st to the first st to join (96sts)
• Rnds 18-20: Ch1, sc in the same st and in each st around, sl st to the first st to join (96sts for 3 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 21-24: Repeat Rnds 17-20 (96sts for 4 Rnds total)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnds 25-28: Repeat Rnds 17-20 (96sts for 4 Rnds total)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 29-32: Repeat Rnds 17-20 (96sts for 4 Rnds total)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnds 33-36: Repeat Rnds 17-20 (96sts for 4 Rnds total)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 37-40: Repeat Rnds 17-20 (96sts for 4 Rnds total)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 41: Repeat Rnd 17 (96sts)

>Design Note: Let’s talk about the last round before making it so that a few things can be observed and learned and therefore applied to other projects in the future as well if the technique is liked!

The final round uses a sl st which is one great way to easily make a professional looking edge. Depending on the project there are pros and cons to the technique so let’s briefly look at those.

The basket could be finished by making a round of single crochet like all the previous rows, however, utilizing the sl st leaves the V on top of the project and adds one to the outside edge of the row, creating a beautiful finish. It’s definitely a more professional look and it makes the top of the basket feel sturdier.

The con to the sl st finished edging doesn’t really come into play with this design, but if used on the edge of a wearable, such as a hat, the sl st doesn’t allow for as much stretch so if crocheted too tightly the hat won’t go on easily over the head. The technique can still be used, just make sure to compensate by slip stitching more loosely or go up a hook size or two for the last round.

I’d love to hear what you think and do share if you decide to utilize this technique in other projects.

• Rnd 42: Sl st in each st around, leave a long tail for attaching one side of the handle to the basket. Sl st to 1st st, fasten off. If not adding a handle use the invisible finish to fasten off.
  • (Learn about making the Invisible Finish HERE)
• Weave in all ends except for the tail used to add the handle.

Making the Handle

>Design Note: Adding a handle is definitely a possibility, but with or without it’s still so cute and functional. Oh the possibilities!

Using Color (C) and working in rows

• Ch 61
• Row 1: In the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across, turn (60sts)
• Row 2: Ch1, sc in each st across, turn (60sts)
• Rows 3-6: Repeat Row 2 (60sts for 4 rows)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the handle. Weave in the starting tail.

Assembly

• Find the center of the basket on two sides. To do so, collapse the basket in half so that the tail that was left for sewing on the last round of the basket is directly centered on one side and the fold marks the center on the other side (see picture above if needed).
• Now find the center of the handle on both sides by folding each end lengthwise. Once all the centers are identified, line up the center points on each side. Hold them in place with a pin or a stitch marker.
• Attach the handle by making whip stitches all the way around the outer and inner side where the handle and basket meet. Stitching all the way around ensures that the handle is securely fastened to the basket.
  • On the side where the tail is attached to the basket the whip stitch is made by stitching half way on the outer side of the basket, all the way along the inside of the handle, and then finishes off with stitching the final half on the outer side.

---

Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Braided Bobble Crochet Bag 2. Crochet Bobble Sheep 3. Crochet Cuisine: Carrots

Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!

As always, I’d love to see your creation if you’re willing to share! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, Instagram (tag @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!

Also, remember that the best way to always be in the loop about new patterns, techniques, tutorials, giveaways, and crafty fun is to subscribe to the newsletter! Thanks for your support!

---

Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using my social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!