Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny

There’s something undeniably charming about this Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny—especially when you know that it’s crocheted with love! It is the perfect project for both seasoned makers and adventurous beginners.

The legs, arms, and ears are all seamlessly joined, removing the need for extra sewing beyond the embroidered nose. With its floppy ears and two-toned feet, it brings just the right touch of whimsy and warmth to any environment.

Whether you’re making a gift, decorating a nursery, or simply adding to your collection of cuddly creations, this bunny is sure to hop right into your heart.

And don’t forget, due to the smaller size, it’s great for turning into a keychain, especially if a sport or DK weight yarn is used. Happy Crocheting!

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny, or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

Recently, I’ve been enjoying making a few smaller projects after designing a larger, more in-depth project, like a gnome, for example. They’re typically more beginner-friendly and quicker to make, so it’s a win-win all around.

I’ve also been trying to work through my backlog of WIPs (works in progress), and this has been one of them. I began designing it several years ago, but somehow, it was forgotten in one of my project bags. With Easter and Spring right here, it felt like the opportune time to revisit the design, get the pictures taken, get the pattern and post written, and introduce it to the world. And fun fact: stay tuned, as I’ll have a bear version coming out soon as well. These designs should not be sitting around in project bags unannounced!

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The Yarn

Brava Tweed yarn was used to make the largest variation of the Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny. Brava Sport yarn was used for the medium-sized version, and Curio #10 crochet thread was used for the miniature version.

The Brava Tweed line from WeCrochet and Knit Picks is quickly becoming a favorite because it currently comes in 15 different colors! If you love using tweed yarn for animals as much as I do, I highly recommend that you give it a try.

It also pairs well with the Brava worsted line of solid colors (50 colors at the time of writing) if you don’t want the whole project in tweed.

The Brava Sport line is very similar to the Brava Worsted, just in a smaller thickness, and it comes in 49 colors. Unfortunately, the tweeds are only currently available in the worsted line. But if you enjoy working in a thinner acrylic, this would be a great option to look into.

I’ve done a review on the Brava yarns HERE if you are interested in reading more about them.

The Curio #10 Thread is also nice to work with. With every thread line, I always wish for more colors, but the 29 colors available do give a good range of options, and I’ve found that it does mix well with other threads of the same size if you do want to branch out with colors.

Realistically, this design would be beautiful in almost any style of yarn: tweed, speckled, striped, variegated, solid, and more. Because of the smaller size, it’s also perfect for using up scrap yarn.

Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight yarn should work well for making the Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny, but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. You can see the miniature version of the Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny in some of the images. It was made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Stuffing!

The stuffing for this design was provided by Fairfield World, the makers of Poly-fil, Poly-Pellets, and other innovative products. When they reached out to collaborate on a design, I was glad to use their product because it’s what I use consistently in my designs. In fact, I typically buy Poly-fil 20 pounds at a time, in the largest box I can get. Don’t worry, though; if this much stuffing feels daunting, it comes in smaller quantities as well.

If you’re looking to add weight to your project Poly-Pellets placed inside a piece of nylon stocking or sewn into a piece of fabric and inserted into your project is a great option. I know it may be tempting to use rice or beans because you already have them on hand, but let me caution you that these edible items may mildew or sprout if they get wet or even be eaten by bugs or rodents. Yuck! So do your project a favor and use Poly-Pellets instead.

Thanks to Fairfield World for such great products!

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The Pattern

>Design Note: In the pattern and images, three different-sized bunnies are shown. The largest are made in worsted yarn, the medium in sport yarn, and the miniature in crochet thread. All details can be found in the materials section of the pattern.

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

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Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Tapestry Needle
• Safety eyes, 8 mm 
• Embroidery Floss, Dark Brown (DMC 838)
• Embroidery Needle 
• Keychain (optional)
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Brava Tweed (worsted 4-Medium, 97% Premium Acrylic, 3% Viscose, 218 yds/199 m, 3.5 oz/100 g), Color (A) Boysenberry OR Lilac OR Rosefinch, used approx. 78 yds/71 m, Color (B) Rosefinch OR Wren, used approx. 25 yds/23 m

• The Medium Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny shown in some images was made using hook size B/1 (2.25) and sport weight yarn. Color (A): Brava Sport, Silver, Color (B): Brava Sport, Clarity. The same pattern is used with a minor change: use 5 mm safety eyes or embroider them. 
• The Miniature Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny shown in some images was made using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Curio #10 thread, Tea Rose, Color (B): Curio #10 thread, Natural. The same pattern is used with a minor change: use 3.5 mm safety eyes or embroider them and use 3 strands of floss when embroidering the nose.  

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Color Variations Used for the Three Worsted Bunnies

• Variation 1 – Purple: Color (A) Lilac, Color (B) Rosefinch

• Variation 2 – Boysenberry: Color (A) Boysenberry, Color (B) Rosefinch

• Variation 3 – Pink: Color (A) Rosefinch, Color (B) Wren

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Gauge

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the first 4 Rnds of the body measure approx. 1.25 inches (3 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size B/1 (2.25 mm) and sport yarn, the first 4 Rnds of the body measure approx. 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the first 4 Rnds of the body measure approx. 9/16 inch (1.4 cm) in diameter. 

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Finished Measurements

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the Largest Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny measures approx. 4 inches (10 cm) in the sitting position to the tip of the ear. 
• Using hook size B/1 (2.25 mm) and sport yarn, the Medium Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny measures approx. 3 inches (7.6 cm) tall.
• Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the Miniature Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny measures approx. 1.5 inches (3.5 cm) tall.

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Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. 
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
• The yarn under method was used when designing this piece. The yarn over method can also be used but will potentially create a slightly larger character.
• Caution! If using safety eyes, consider who will be using the item. Safety eyes are not recommended for children under three or those prone to putting things in their mouths as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand-embroidered eyes are a great alternative!

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Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• approx.  – approximately
• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• ch – chain
• MR – magic ring (aka magic circle, adjustable ring)
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• RS – right side
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
• sl st – slip stitch
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• WS – wrong side
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as many times as directed
• Some hand embroidery

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Let’s Make Our Small Crochet Amigurumi Bunny!

Arms

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (9sts)

Shape the bottom hand portion of the arm (stuff firmly, lightly, or not at all, depending on personal preference). Leave the top 3 Rnds unstuffed so they will rest closer to the body. 

• Rnds 7-8: Sc in each st around. (9sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up with the starting st on the right edge and sc the two edges together across the top. (4sts)
• Fasten off and set aside for later.

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Legs

Make 2

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The feet are worked around both sides of the foundation chain.  

• Ch 5
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this as the starting st), sc in the next 2ch, 3sc in the next ch (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 2ch, 2sc in the next ch. (10sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 2sts. (16sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 3-4: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the leg and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnds 7-9: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 3 Rnds)
• Fasten off. Mark the 3rd and 9th sts for later reference when seamlessly joining the legs to the body and set aside for later.

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Ears

Make 2

Using Color (A)

>Design Note: The ears are not stuffed.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (14sts)
• Rnd 4: [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts] 2 times. (16sts)
• Rnds 5-10: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 6 Rnds)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (14sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (14sts)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (12sts)
• Rnds 14-15: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (10sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (10sts)
• Press the ear flat so the top edges line up with the starting st on the right edge and sc the two edges together across the top. (5sts)
• Fasten off and set aside for later.

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Tail

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 3 times. (6sts)
• Fasten off. Firmly stuff and shape the tail and set aside for later.

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Body and Head

>Design Note: The body is worked from the bottom to the top of the head in one piece, seamlessly joining the limbs as the pattern progresses.

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)

In the next Rnd, the bottom of the legs and tail are added seamlessly to the body.

>Design Tip: If it’s helpful, mark sts 6, 10, 12, 16, 22, and 24 on the body with stitch markers to help when joining the bottom of the legs and the tail in Rnd 5. Each number corresponds with the first and last st used for the appendage being joined. These markers can be removed once the limb is joined.

• Rnd 5: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, join the bottom left leg to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the 3rd st of the leg from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the leg, yo, pull through both loops] 5 times (>Design Note: Joining the leg begins and ends with a previously marked stitch), on the body: 2sc in the next st, join the bottom right leg to the body: repeat the same instructions for joining the bottom left leg to the body, on the body: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, join the bottom of the tail to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into any st of the tail st from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops] 3 times. (29sts)

In the next Rnd, the tops of the legs and tail are added seamlessly to the body. The remaining 5sts of each leg and 3sts for the tail will be used. If any additional stuffing is needed in the legs or tail, add it now.

>Design Tip: If it’s helpful, mark sts 8, 12, 15, 19, 27, and 29 on the body with stitch markers to help when joining the top of the legs and the tail in Rnd 6. Each number corresponds with the first and last st used for the appendage being joined. These markers can be removed once the limb is joined.

• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 7sts, join the top left leg to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the leg st closest to the hook from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the leg, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the leg and body sts together for the next 4sts, on the body: 2sc in th next st, sc in the next st, join the top right leg to the body: repeat the same instructions for joining the top left leg to the body, on the body: sc in the next 7sts, join the top of the tail to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the tail st closest to the hook from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops] 3 times. (30sts)
• Rnds 7-11: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)

In the next Rnd, the arms are added seamlessly to the body.  

>Design Tip: If it’s helpful, mark sts 5, 8, 17, and 20 on the body with stitch markers to help when joining the arms in Rnd 13. Each number corresponds with the first and last st used for the appendage being joined. These markers can be removed once the limb is joined.

• Rnd 13: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, join the left arm to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the st at either edge of one of the arm, now insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops] 4 times, on the body: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, join the right arm to the body: repeat the same instructions used for joining the left arm to the body, on the body: sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts. (20sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (18sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (15sts)

The next section moves into making the head. >Design Tip: Wait to stuff the head until the eyes and nose are added.

• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (18sts) 
• Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)  
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (40sts) 
• Rnds 21-25: Sc in each st around. (40sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (36sts) 
• Rnd 27: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (30sts) 

In the next Rnd, the ears are added seamlessly to the body.  

>Design Tip: If it’s helpful, mark sts 9, 13, 22, and 26 on the body with stitch markers to help when joining the arms in Rnd 13. Each number corresponds with the first and last st used for the appendage being joined. These markers can be removed once the limb is joined.

>Design Note: If the ears appear to be in the wrong place, adjust them as needed. When making the different sizes, I occasionally liked the look of the right ear being moved back 1st. Depending on tension, yarn size, etc. this may be the case for you as well. Rnd 28 is all sc so the joins can be made anywhere in the Rnd to get the ears in the desired location.

• Rnd 28: Sc in the next 8sts, join the left ear to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the st at either edge of one of the ears, now insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops] 5 times, on the body: sc in the next 8sts, join the right ear to the body: repeat the same instructions used for joining the left ear to the body, on the body: sc in the next 4sts. (30sts)

Insert the safety eyes. The suggested placement is between Rnds 24 and 25, approx. 5sts apart, centered on the face with the ears, arms, and legs as reference. 

Using an embroidery needle and brown embroidery floss, embroider the nose between the eyes. The suggested placement for the triangle is for the top to be between Rnds 24 and 25 approx. 2sts wide that comes to a point between Rnds 22 and 23. Then stitch a straight line coming down from the tip to between Rnds 20 and 21.

• Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)  
• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 32: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.
• >Design Option: The arms and ears may rise from the body more than desired. If this is the case, use a length of Color (A) and a tapestry needle to tack them to the body on the underside of each piece, a few Rnds from the top of the arm/ear.

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Keychain Loop

Optional

>Design Note: The hanging loop is optional and can be as long or as short as desired. Simply add or remove the desired number of chains. As written, once formed, the loop is approx. 1 inch (2.5 cm) long, the chosen keyring adding additional height.

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Ch 12
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (11sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the hanging loop to the body. Weave in the starting tail.
• Fold the keychain loop in half so the short ends touch.
• Put the keychain into the fold.
• Using the tail and a tapestry needle, whip-stitch the ends together.
• Securely stitch the loop to the top center of the bunny’s head and weave in the end.

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Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the de