Small Animal Collection: Turkey

Say hello to the Small Animal Collection: Crochet Turkey! Today I would like to introduce you to Tom and Penny. They are such a cute couple and are often found together foraging in the woods for acorns, seeds, and berries. Penny enjoys making handmade accessories that coordinate with their tail feathers. Tom isn’t the biggest fan, but he loves Penny, so he humors her and plays along.

They are quite the polite and social pair, and even like to get out on the dance floor a bit and shake their tail feathers, but lately, they’ve become a bit quieter and are staying home a bit more with all the talk they’re hearing about turkey being on the dinner table instead of sitting around it.

This also has Penny thinking that perhaps it might be a good idea to add a bit more camouflage to their outfits, at least until the New Year when all the talk of turkey dinners seems to disappear.

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The Inspiration

My turkey friend Tom has been hanging out in my WIP (Work in Progress) box for some time now. He’s been there for at least a year and a half. Yikes! Poor Tom, but don’t worry, he hasn’t been alone. He had many other Small Animal friends (in various stages of completion) there to keep him company, all hoping that they would be the next to be chosen for completion.

I only know that it’s been this long because it was about 2017 that I switched from consistently using an F hook for designing my amigurumi to an E hook and I had Tom noted as being made out of an F hook. A great example of why it’s important to take notes when you’re crocheting, so you can come back a year later and pick up where you left off. Since then I’ve also started dating my designs when I start them. Just a thought. You live, you learn, and you make changes! Would you believe that when I first started out I used a size G hook? This is way hard for me to imagine now.

Tom was mostly put together but was in the need of one foot, a beak, and his gobbler. Don’t worry though, I totally reworked the entire pattern to make sure that things were ready to share, but this time with my favorite E hook and now we have Penny, but if you notice in the pictures that they are differing in size, this is why.

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The Yarn

I chose to use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn for this project. I love that it comes in a wide variety of colors and is more accessible locally (at least to me) than some of the other yarns. It’s the yarn that I began learning on and have had in my stash ever since. That said, I do think that these guys could work up well in another brand or type of acrylic or cotton yarn. I always encourage using up what’s in your stash and buying more if needed. Well, if needed, or wanted, or on sale….you get the idea…buy the yarn, use what you want and enjoy looking and squishing all the rest until inspiration strikes!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Pins
• Safety eyes, 9 mm (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• 1 3/8 inch Clover Pom Pom Maker (optional)
• Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g), Color (A) Cafe Latte, used approx. 80 yds, Color (B) Gold, used approx. 17 yds, Color (C) Ranch Red, used approx. 2 yds, Color (D) Black, used approx. 2 yds, Color (E) Soft White, used approx.  <1 yd, Color (F) Carrot, used approx. 31 yds, Color (G) Aran, used approx.  26 yds

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the head measure 2.25 inches in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Turkey measures approximately 6 inches from the base to the top of the head not including the hat.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written in rounds except for the scarf, the ear flaps on the hat, the gobbler, and a small portion of the wings. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. 
• At the end of each round, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Caution! If using safety eyes take into consideration who will be using the item. The use of safety eyes is not recommended for children under the age of three or for those prone to putting things in their mouth as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand embroidered eyes are a great alternative!

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• ch – Chain
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Rows – Rows
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• [ ] / ( )– Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

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Let’s Make Our Turkey!

Head

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnds 8-12: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)

Insert the safety eyes. Suggested placement is between Rnds 9 and 10 approximately 4sts apart. Firmly stuff and shape the head and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 17: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure and weave in the end.

Body

The body is worked from the base up towards the neck.
Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnds 7-12: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 6 Rnds)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 19-21: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to attach the body to the head.

Wings

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (6sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (8sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (8sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (10sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (10sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (14sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (14sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (10sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (10sts)
• Rnd 13: Flatten the top edges together, lining up the stitches, sc the edges together. (5sts)

The next part is worked in turned rows.

>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease when working in rows.

• Row 14: Ch1, turn, sc in the first st, [sc2tog] 2 times. (3sts)
• Row 15: Ch 1, turn, sc in the first st, sc2tog. (2sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the wing to the body.

Feet

Make 2

Using Color (B)

The feet are made by making three toes and then attaching them together. Fasten off after finishing the first two toes, but DO NOT fasten off after making the third toe.

 Toes

Make 3 for each foot

• Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (6sts)
• Rnds 3-4: Sc in each st around. (6sts for 2 Rnds)
• Fasten off leaving a slightly longer tail for potential stitching (see design tip below) if making the first or second toe, continue on if the third toe.

Joining the Toes and Completing the Feet

• Rnd 5: With the third toe still attached to the working yarn, pick up one of the other two toes. Insert the hook into the last st of Rnd 4 of the second toe from the outside (right side) to the inside (wrong side) of the work (see image above),

>Design Tip: Starting the join in the last stitch of the row positions the tail left previously from fastening off Toe 1 and Toe 2 to be used for stitching any gaps that may be left when joining the pieces together. Just be sure to move the tail forward when crocheting the rest of the stitches so that it sits on the right side of the work. Typically the gap made from joining will be small, so this step may seem unnecessary, but it’s the small details that often make a piece look more professional.

• Rnd 5 continued: Sc this first st (pieces now joined, mark this st as the new starting st), sc in the next stitch on the joined toe, leave the remaining four sts unworked for now. Pick up the final toe and single crochet the last and first st of Rnd 4 of the toe, sc the next 4 sc on this final toe, sc the 4 skipped sts on the middle toe (this joins the final and middle toe together on the other side of the foot), join back to the first toe (in the last st of Rnd 4) with a sc and sc in the remaining 5sts. (18sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)

Use the tails that were left on the right side of the work when joining the toes to close any gaps. Firmly stuff and shape the toes and feet and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Rnds 9-13: Sc in each st around (8sts for 5 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the foot to the body.

Eyes

Make 2 – if not using safety eyes
Using Color (D)
Cut a piece of yarn about 25 inches (64 cm) long. Looking at the individual strands pull the pieces apart so that there are two strands in each section. Use each of the sections to make an eye.

> Design Tip: Using a thinner yarn will work for making the smaller eyes as well. Keeping the four strands together will make a larger eye.

• Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Sl st to the first st. Fasten off. Tie in your beginning tail and leave the end tail for attaching the eye to the head.
• >Design Options: Stitch a small white accent in the black portion of the eye using white embroidery floss or Color (E).

Beak

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (10sts)
• Rnds 3-4: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 2 Rnds)

>Design Note: Other than the starting tail the beak is not stuffed.

• Rnd 5: Flatten the top edges together, lining up the stitches, sc the edges together. (5sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the beak to the head.

Gobbler

The Gobbler is made in Rows.

Make 1

Using Color (C)

Leave a longer starting tail for attaching the gobbler to the face and beak.

• Row 1: 3sc in adjustable (magic) circle, turn. (3sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 3sc in 2nd chain from hook. (3sts)
• Row 2: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across. (3sts)

>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease when working in rows rather than an invisible decrease.

• Row 3: Ch1, turn, sc in the next st, sc2tog. (2sts)
• Rows 4-6: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across. (2sts for 3 Rows)
• Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog. (1st)
• Row 8: Ch1, turn, sc in the next st. (1st)
• Fasten off and weave in the final end.

Feathers

If you’ve had the chance to see and try the patterns in the post for the Ridged Crochet Feathers in Four Sizes then this part will look really familiar. This turkey pattern was actually the inspiration for making all the different sizes in the feather post. Below I use the smallest of the four feather patterns to make the turkey feathers.

The feathers are made from the base up to the top.

Make 5

Using Color (A)

• Chain 11

>Design Tip: Work Row 1 in the back bar of the chain so that both edges lay flat and look more professional.

• Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 3sts, skip the next 2sts, sc in the next 4sts. (8sts)

The remainder of the rows are worked in the BLO until otherwise indicated.

• Row 2: Ch1, turn, 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 2sts, skip the next 2sts, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the last st. (8sts)
• Rows 3-9: Repeat Row 2. (8sts for 7 Rows)

Switch to Color (F) and continue working in the BLO.

• Rows 10-11: Repeat Row 2. (8sts for 2 Rows)
• Row 12: Ch1, turn, 2sc in the first st, sc2tog, skip the next 2sts, sc2tog, 2sc in the last st. (6sts)
• Row 13: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, skip the next 2sts, sc2tog. (2sts)

Working in both loops

• Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog. (1st)
• Fasten off and weave in ends.

Top Stitching the Feathers

When making the line down the center of the feather (or as I learned, the “rachis” if you want to be technical), it can be done in a couple of ways. The easiest way may be top stitching (aka surface crochet).

Insert the hook up from the bottom side of the feather at the point where the two colors meet. Hook the yarn (leaving a tail long enough to weave in later) and pull it down through the feather. Move the hook with the working loop still attached, to each space directly before and directly after each raised rib, pulling the yarn down through the feather each time. When the end is reached cut a tail and pull it through the final loop on the hook. When done this way one side of the feather looks like a row of chains down the center, and the other side, a row of short, straight stitches.

When weaving in the ends, thread the tail with a tapestry needle and work it up the center through the ridges, right near the topstitched line. Because the ridges are thicker you can work the tapestry needle into the ridge so it doesn’t show on either side!

Alternatively, hand stitch a line running down the center using a back stitch or leave the feather without extra stitching

See the Assembly section below for more information and pictures on arranging and attaching the feathers to the turkey.

Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire piece and then stitch them securely into place. Remember to add any additional stuffing needed before closing up the holes on the pieces requiring stuffing.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Place the bottom of the head centered over the top of the body, covering approximately Rnd 16-18.
• If using the crocheted eyes place then over about Rnd 8-10 of the head approximately 3sts apart.
• Place the beak with the flatter portion between Rnds 10-11 of the head, just under and between the eyes. Attach to the head all the way around the very top of the beak, leaving the rest unattached from the head.
• Shape and place the gobbler. The gobbler can be shaped in a variety of ways. As pictured, take the wider top piece and fold that portion in half lengthwise. Using the tail stitch the top three rows together along the edges. Place this stitched portion over the left side of the beak. When attaching, attach just at the top leaving the bottom to hang freely.
• Attach the wings to the body on either side with the top flat portion at about Rnd 15. Stitch the flatter portion to the body including underneath the wing.
• Place the feet at the front of the body over about Rnd 6-8, approximately 3sts apart.
• Add hair. Cut 8 – 4 inch long strands of Color (A). Holding two strands of yarn together at a time loop them to the top center of the head four times. Trim as desired.

Feather Assembly

There are many ways that the feathers could be stitched together and attached. The method described below will ensure that the feathers are secure, but will still leave them distinctly separate from each other.

• Upper Left Image. Using a long length of Color (A), whipstitch the inner two bottom edges together so that they form a V shape.

>Design Note: If a decorative line was made up the center of the feathers, it’s important at this time to determine which side will be facing the turkey and which side will be facing out (a personal decision), and begin placing and stitching accordingly.

• Upper Right Image. The next feather will be placed on top of the V that was just made and secured with a few stitches. This feather will be the outermost feather once all the feathers are stitched together so decide which side of the V will face forward and attach the feather on that side.
  • To keep the feathers separate but connected, only attached the feather up the center back at the base where the two previous feathers were stitched together into the V. Stitched this way all the edges remain free. Be sure to look at both sides of the tail feathers to make sure that the desired placement is being achieved.

• Bottom Left Image. This image depicts placing and stitching the final two feathers. They are placed in the spaces between the other feathers and will be the feathers closest to the turkey’s body.
  • Stitch them securely along the bottom edges and slightly up each side of the feather. The goal is to make sure that they are not too floppy and maintain the look of being a single feather.

• Bottom Right Image. The feathers are in their completed array and are ready to be attached to the body.

• Pin them to the base of the body at about Rnd 6, ensuring desired placement, and then stitch along the entire bottom as well as on both sides, but only about two ridges high on the sides.

Hat

Starting with Color (F)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)

Switch to Color (G)

• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts) 
• Rnds 8-14: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 7 Rnds)

Switch to Color (F)

• Rnds 15-17: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 3 Rnds)

DO NOT fasten off. It’s now time to create the ear flap which is made in rows.

Ear Flap

• Row 1: Sc in the next 5sts (the rest of the sts will remain unworked). (5sts)
• Row 2: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across. (5sts)
• Row 3: Ch1, turn, sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts. (4sts)
• Row 4: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across. (4sts)
• Row 5: Ch1, turn, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st. (3sts)
• Row 6: Ch1, turn, sc in the next st, sc2tog. (2sts)
• Row 7: Ch1, turn, sc2tog. (1st)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail to tie a small knot (or two on top of each other) 1/4 of an inch from the earflap, then trim leaving a small amount of yarn to fray so it looks like a tiny tassel on the end.

• Find the placement for the other ear flap by pushing the hat flat with the earflap just made centered on one side. Note the 5sts on the other side of the hat that correspond with the earflap. With the top of the hat facing down, insert hook on the far right of these corresponding stitches and repeat Row 1-7 and the fastening off technique from above to create the second earflap. Leave a starting tail long enough to weave in.
• Weave in all the ends on the inside of the hat.

• Make and add a pom pom to the hat if desired. The project uses Color (F) and a 1 3/8 inch Clover Pom Pom Maker to achieve the results pictured.

Scarf

Starting with Color (F)

• Ch 4
• Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across. (3sts)

>Design Tip: Work into the back bar of the chain when working back across the foundation chain for a more professional look.

• Rows 2-3: Ch1, sc in each st across. (3sts for 2 Rows)
• Rows 4-6: Using Color G – Ch1, sc in each st across. (3sts for 3 Rows)
• Rows 7-9: Using Color F – Ch1, sc in each st across. (3sts for 3 Rows)
• Rows 10-12: Using Color G – Ch1, sc in each st across. (3sts for 3 Rows)
• Rows 13-45: Repeat Rows 7-12. (3sts for 33 Rows)
• Fasten off. Weave in the ends.
• Using Color (G), cut 6 – 4″ strips and loop four on each end of the scarf to create tassels, trim to the desired length.
• Place scarf around the turkey’s neck, cross over at the bottom Color (G) stripes and secure the scarf in place with a few sts at the same point.

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Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Small Animal Collection: Horse 2. Braided Bobble Crochet Bag 3. Simple Amigurumi Penguin

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!