Today I’m Happy to introduce the newest member of the Small Animal Collection, the Giraffe. I have mine set aside in preparation to give as gifts for a few people that I know will be having babies soon, but I’ve had great feedback from adults and children of all ages wanting one for their animal collection. They’re already a favorite!
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The Inspiration
Several years ago I decided to make a series of little animals that I now lovingly refer to as my Small Animal Collection. I made a long list of all the animals I could think of and began designing them.
Some of them are finished and I have shared them here on the blog, like my bears, horse, unicorn, elephant, and turkey. Others just need their pattern
Sadly, others sit waiting partly finished in my Work(s) In Progress (WIP) box, while yet still, some continue to wait on the list for their opportunity to be brought to life.
The purpose of this series is to have a project that can be made relatively quickly should the need arise for a last minute gift. (I shared a little more of my reasoning in the Small Animal Collection: Bears post if you’d like to know more.)
Looking around me recently I’ve noticed several individuals that will soon be having babies so I decided to be ahead of the game for once and looked at what I already had going on in my WIP box. Handmade gifts are my favorite to give, but they take time.
There sat my yellow and brown giraffe. He was fully crocheted, stuck together with pins. Just waiting for assembly. Perfect!
Per my usual process I reworked the pattern to ensure that I was still happy with the design and now I’m sharing it with you! I hope that you enjoy adding the Giraffe to your own Small Animal Collection!
The Yarn
I had previously made my first yellow and brown giraffe using Red Heart Super Saver Yarn some time ago, so I made the other two friends with it as well.
I love that Red Heart Super Saver comes in a wide variety of colors and is more accessible locally (at least to me) than some other yarns. It is
I’ve found that the trick to using an acrylic yarn and making professional looking amigurumi for me, is ensuring that I’m using a hook that is smaller than the recommended size (I use a Size E/4 (3.5mm)) so that the stitches are tight and not leaving holes where stuffing will show through.
That said, I do think that our giraffe friend would work up well in another brand or type of acrylic or cotton yarn. I always encourage using up what’s in your stash and buying more if needed. Well, if needed, or wanted, or on sale….you get the idea, buy the yarn, use what you want and enjoy looking and squishing all the rest until inspiration strikes!
The Pattern
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Scissors
- Stuffing
- Tapestry needle
- Pins
- Safety eyes, 9 mm (optional)
- Pet Slicker Brush (optional, for brushing tail)
- Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
- Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g):
- Yellow & Brown Giraffe: Color (A) Cornmeal, less than 1 skein, Color (B) Cafe Latte, less than 1 skein, Color (C) Black, scrap piece, Color (D) Soft White, scrap piece.
- White & Purple Giraffe: Color (A) Aran, less than 1 skein, Color (B) Pale Plum, less than 1 skein, Color (C) Black, scrap piece, Color (D) Soft White, scrap piece.
- Blue on Blue Giraffe: Color (A) Light Periwinkle, less than 1 skein, Color (B) Windsor Blue, less than 1 skein, Color (C) Black, scrap piece, Color (D) Soft White, scrap piece.
Gauge
Gauge is not essential to this project, but tension should be maintained.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) from the base to the top of the horns, measurement is approximately 7.5 inches (19 cm) tall.
Design Notes
- This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. I chose to use a size E crochet hook. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing show through. If a different sized hook works better for you, then by all means, use it! Do note, however, that if you change the hook size or the type of yarn you are using, that this will have an effect on the size and look of your finished item.
- This pattern is written in rounds, except for the spots. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and to move it up as you start each additional round.
- At the end of each round, I will note in parenthesis how many stitches you should have once completed.
- One skein of Color A and Color B is noted in the materials, but you will only be using a portion of them. You can get several giraffes out of one skein!
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- bo – bobble (See Special Stitches below)
- ch – Chain
- Rnd(s) – Round(s)
- Rows – Rows
- sc – Single crochet
- sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
- sl st – Slip stitch
- st(s) – Stitch(s)
- [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
- magic circle/adjustable ring
Special Stitches
Bobble (bo): In this pattern, we will be using the 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble). Essentially it’s 3 half finished double crochets all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as one stitch, or a shortened version of a regular bobble stitch. And because that is all sorts of confusing, here are some directions! You create the bobble as follows:
With the original single loop on your hook from your previous stitch(es)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and pull through two of the loops
- Stop here! (two loops on your hook). If you were doing a full double crochet you would yarn over again and pull it through the final two loops to finish the dc, but with a bobble you stop halfway, leaving the extra loop on the hook. One of the legs completed.
Ok, now repeat steps 1-4, two more times, inserting the hook into the same stitch that you just worked into. Also, remember that each time you repeat the sequence that you should have one more loop added to your hook.
Now, yarn over and pull through all four of the loops on your hook. This closes your bobble stitch. Congratulations, you just made a bobble!
>Design Note: When making bobbles some patterns will have you make a chain after you have made the bobble to secure them even more. I DO NOT have you make this chain in the pattern, simply make your next stitch as directed in the pattern.
Let’s Make Our Giraffe!
Head
Make 1
Using Color B
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next sc] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in each st around (18sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (24sts)
- Rnd 7: Sc in the next 7sc, 2sc in the next sc, bo, sc in the next 6sc, bo,
2sc in the next sc, sc in the next 7sc (26sts) - Rnd 8: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts (24sts)
Switch to Color A
- Rnd 9: Sc in each st around (24sts)
- Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 11: Sc in each st around (18sts)
- Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnds 14-17: Sc in each st around (30sts for 4 rounds)
- Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 3sc, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 19: Sc in each st around (24sts)
If you’re using safety eyes now would be a good time to add them. Play around a bit and decide what you think looks best for placement. I put mine between Rnd 13 and Rnd 14 about 5sts apart.
At this point, you should also begin to firmly stuff your head and continue to do so right up to the very end of closing it off.
- Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 21: Sc in each st around (18sts)
- Rnd 22: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
- Rnd 23: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
- Sl st. Fasten off. Add more stuffing. Close hole using a tapestry needle
> Design Tip: I think hole closes more nicely if you close it with your tapestry needle, working in the front loops only and work with your needle from the inside of the hole out in each stitch around until the hole is completely closed. Tie off. Bury your yarn end and cut off any excess.
Body
The body will be worked from the base up towards the neck.
Using Color A
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (36sts)
- Rnd 7-12: Sc in each st around (36sts for 6 rounds)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 4sc, sc2tog] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnd 14: Sc in each st around (30sts)
- Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sc, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around (24sts for 2 rounds)
- Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)
Stuff the body firmly and continue to stuff and shape as you go.
- Rnd 19-21: Sc in each st around (18sts for 3 rounds)
- Rnd 22: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
- Rnds 23-29: Sc in each st around (12sts for 7 rounds)
- Sl st. Fasten off. Leave a tail for attaching the head to the body.
Arms
Make 2
Using Color B
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
- Rnds 3-5: Sc in each st around (12sts for 3 rounds)
Switch to Color A
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
Begin stuffing around round 7 or 8 and continue to do so as you work. I left the top couple rows unstuffed.
- Rnds 7-20: Sc in each st around (8sts for 14 rounds)
- Sl st the top edges together (4sts)
- Fasten off.
Leave a tail for attaching the arms to the body.
Legs
Make 2
Using Color B
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnds 4-6: Sc in each st around (18sts for 3 rounds)
Switch to Color A
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 4sc, sc2tog] 3 times (15sts)
- Rnd 8-9: Sc in each st around (15sts for 2 rounds)
- Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 5sc, sc2tog] 2 times, sc the last st (13sts)
- Rnd 11-14: Sc in each st around (13sts for 4 rounds)
- Fasten off. Leave a tail long enough to attach the leg to the body.
Firmly stuff the leg.
Horns
Make 2
Using Color B
- Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle (4sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook (4sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (8sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 4 times (12sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in each st around (12sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
Stuff the horn firmly and continue to stuff and shape as you go.
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 2 times, [sc] 2 times (6sts)
Switch to color A
- Rnd 7-9: Sc in each st around (6sts for 3 rounds)
Ears
- Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle (4sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook (4sts)
- Rnd 2: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 2 times (6sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (8sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (10sts)
- Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around (10sts for 2 rounds)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sc, sc2tog] 2 times (8sts)
- Sl st, fasten off, leave a tail for sewing the ear to the head. Don’t stuff.
Tail
Make 1
Using Color A
- Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle (4sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook (4sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next st, [sc] 2 times (5sts)
- Rnds 3-14: Sc in each st around (5sts for 12 rounds)
- Sl st, fasten off, leave a tail for sewing the ear to the head. Don’t stuff.
Tuft on the Tail
Using Color B
The tuft on the tail is made by holding 2 lengths of yarn approximately 6 inches (15cm) in length together and looping them through at the very end of the tail. Repeat this for a total of three times. Pull each yarn strand to ensure that it’s taught and snug against the tail. Brush with pet slicker brush or separate individual yarns strands by hand, if desired.
>Design Tip: I made the tuft on the tail as the very last thing when assembling and stitching my giraffe together. Doing it this way I was able to use leftover yarn tails for the tuft rather than cutting extra pieces.
Spots
The spots are created in turned rows.
Use Color B for all spots
>Design Note: I will note below the number of spots that I used and how I placed them, but the reality is that each giraffe will be a bit different. Add as many or few spots as you would like.
Spot 1
Make 3
- Ch5
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across, turn (4sts)
- Row 2: Ch1, sc2tog, sc, leave the last st unworked, turn (2sts)
- Row 3: Ch1, sc2tog (1st)
- Fasten off, leave tail to attach to the body. Weave in the 1st tail.
Spot 2
Make 2
- Ch4
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across, turn (3sts)
- Row 2: Ch1, sc in each st across, turn (3sts)
- Row 3: Ch1, sc2tog, leave the last 2sts unworked, turn (1st)
- Row 4: Ch1, sc (1st)
Fasten off, leave tail to attach to the body. Weave in the 1st tail.
Spot 3
Make 2
- Ch2
- Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across, turn (2sts)
- Row 2: Ch1, [2 sc in the next st] 2 times, turn (4sts)
- Row 3: Ch1, [sc] 3 times, leave the last st unworked, turn (3sts)
- Row 4: Ch1, sc2tog, sc (2sts)
- Row 5: Ch1, sc, leave the last st unworked (1st)
- Fasten off, leave tail to attach to the body. Weave in the 1st tail.
Spot 4
Make 2
- Ch3
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across, turn (2sts)
- Row 2: Ch1, sc in the 1st st, 2sc in the next, turn (3sts)
- Row 3: Ch1, 2sc in the 1st st, sc, 2sc in the last st, turn (5sts)
- Row 4: Ch1, sc2tog, sc, leave the last 2sts unworked, turn (2sts)
- Row 5: Ch1, sc in each st across (2sts)
- Fasten off, leave tail to attach to the body. Weave in the 1st tail.
Assembly
Pin all your pieces together until you have the desired placement and then stitch securely in place with your tapestry needle.
>Design Tip: Remember to add more stuffing right before you finish closing up the attachment for the neck, legs, and horns. When you attach one piece to another it leaves a small gap that otherwise would not have any stuffing in it. Adding stuffing right up to the very end makes a piece feel more sturdy and looks more professional.
>Design Note: With the arms, I attached them in the back first along the very top slip stitched edge and then as I came around to the front I stitched them about three rows down from the top slip stitched row. This is just my preference in how I wanted the arms to lay. Experiment with what you think looks best!
Looking for more great patterns?
These may be of interest! 1. Braided Bobble Crochet Bag 2. Ridged Crochet Feathers in Four Sizes 3. Simple Amigurumi Penguin
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