Today I am excited to introduce you to the friendliest speckled frog you’ll ever meet, Freddy! His favorite hobbies include sitting on a log that overlooks a nearby pond, swimming with his friends to keep cool in the summer sun, and eating the most delicious bugs. Yum! Yum!
He is especially excited this year because it’s leap year and he can officially celebrate his birthday unlike all those other years when he had to pretend it was his birthday on a day that it wasn’t really. Happy Birthday, Freddy!
Already Have Something on Your Hook?
Freddy is part of the Small Animal Collection that is an ever-growing collection of designs that are a bit smaller in size (but not too small) and have bodies made the same (except maybe a long neck now and then for certain animals), making them perfect for quick gift ideas and on the go projects.
Check out these other designs in the Small Animal Collection!
Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Please see the disclosure page if you would like further details.
The Yarn
I’ve chosen Red Heart Super Saver yarn to make all the animals in my Small Animal Collection.
Red Heart Super Saver yarn is a well known yarn by both knitters and crocheters alike. It was the first yarn that I used when I started learning to crochet almost 30 years ago, making bracelets and pot holders and eventually scarves, blankets and beyond for everyone I knew.
Red Heart Super Saver yarn is known for it economy and function but the reason that it’s one of the yarns that I turn to frequently is the wide variety of colors that it offers for my amigurumi pieces. I love a wide variety of color options!
The yarn is a 100% acrylic worsted weight (Size 4) yarn that is widely available to purchase both in store and online. The yarn itself is machine washable and dryable, but on that note, I do not recommend machine washing amigurumi. Instead spot clean and air dry them if cleaning is necessary.
When using acrylic yarn in my designs Red Heart Super Saver yarn will continue to be one of the staple yarns I reach for to design my amigurumi pieces.
The Pattern
Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of those links I may receive a small commission. It’s an easy way to support this blog at no extra cost to you. Please see the disclosure page if you would like further details.
Difficulty
Advanced Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (These are the ones I use)
- Stitch Marker(s) (These are my favorite)
- Scissors (These are one of the pairs I use)
- Tapestry Needle (This is what I use)
- Stuffing (This is what I use)
- Chopstick, dowel, something similar to help with stuffing
- Pins (These are my favorite)
- Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g), Color (A) Spring Green, used approx. 110 yds/ 101 m, Color (B) White, used approx. 20 yds/ 18 m, Color (C) Black, used approx. 2 yds/ 2 m, (D) Lemon, used approx. 7 yds/ 6 m
Gauge
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the head equal 2-1/16 inches in diameter.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) from the top of the eye to the tip of the toe with legs extended measures approximately 11 inches tall. In the sitting position, approximately 6 inches tall from the top of the eye to the bottom of the body.
Design Notes
- Pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
- A size E/4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook is recommended. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing to show through.
- The pattern is written in rounds and rows. When working in rounds it is helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
- At the end of each round/row the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
- Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- ch – Chain
- Rnd(s) – Round(s)
- Row(s) – Row(s)
- sc – Single crochet
- sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (use the invisible decrease when working in the Rnd)
- sl st – Slip stitch
- st(s) – Stitch(s)
- magic circle/adjustable ring
- [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
- Optional Needle Shaping
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Let’s Make Our Frog!
Head
Make 1
The head is worked from the top down.
Using Color (A) – Spring Green
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (36sts)
- Rnds: 7-10: Sc in each st around (36sts for 4Rnds)
- Rnds 11: Ch 3, In the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this st as the new starting point), sc in the next ch, sc in the next 36sts, sc in the 2sts (in the other side of the ch) (40sts)
- Rnd 12: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 8sts, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st ] 3 times, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st (48sts)
- Rnd 13: Sc in each st around (48sts)
- Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times (42sts)
- Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times (36sts)
- Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnd 17: Sc in each st around (30sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the head and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 3 times (27sts)
- Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 3 times (24sts)
- Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 4 times (20sts)
- Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 5 times (15sts)
- Rnd 22: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 5 times (10sts)
- Sl st, fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole by stitching into the front loops only of each of the sts around until the hole is closed. Secure stitching and weave in the end.
Body
Make 1
The body is worked from the base up towards the neck.
Using Color (A) – Spring Green
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (36sts)
- Rnds 7-12: Sc in each st around (36sts for 6 Rnds)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnd 14: Sc in each st around (30sts)
- Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around (24sts for 2Rnds)
Firmly stuff the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnds 19-21: Sc in each st around (18sts for 3Rnds)
- Sl st, fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the head to the body.
Eyes
Make 2
The eye is created from the top to the base.
Using Color (B) – White
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times (9sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times (12sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times (15sts)
- Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around (15sts for 2Rnds)
- Sl st to the first st, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the eye to the head.
- Stuff the eye.
Eyelids
Make 2
The eyelid is made from the front to the back.
Using Color (A) – Spring Green
Leave a long starting tail to use to attach the eyelid to the body and the front of the eye.
- Ch 14
Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row.
- Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across (13sts)
>Design Note: Measure to make sure that this piece is the correct length. When placed over the top of the middle of the eye the ends should be even on the bottom of each side of the eye. Adjust tension if it does not.
>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease when working in rows.
- Row 2: Sc in each st across (13sts)
- Row 3: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog (11sts)
- Row 4: Sc in each st across (11sts)
- Row 5: [Sc2tog, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc2tog (7sts)
- Row 6: [Sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next st (4sts)
- Row 7: [Sc2tog] 2 times (2sts)
- Fasten off. Weave in the final end.
Pupils
Make 2
Using Color (C) – Black
- Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle (5sts)
- Sl st to the first st, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in the starting tail.
Legs
Make 2
The leg begins with making three toes, joining them together and then making the leg portion.
Using Color (A) – Spring Green
- Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle (5sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (10sts)
- Rnds 3-4: Sc in each st around (10sts for 2Rnds)
Firmly stuff and shape the toe and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 5: [Sc2tog] 5 times (5sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (5sts)
- For the first two toes fasten off. If making the third toe continue as directed below.
Leave the next portion of the foot unstuffed.
- Rnd 7: Sc in the next 2sts (leave the remaining sts unworked for now), [pick up another toe and inserting the hook from the right side of the work to the wrong of the work sc in stitch number 4 and 5 of this toe (leave the remaining sts unworked for now)] 2 times, sc in the remaining 3sts of the third toe, on the second toe: sc in the remaining 3sts, on the first toe: sc in the remaining 3sts (15sts)
- Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times (12sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times (9sts)
- Rnd 10: [Sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 3sts (6sts)
- Rnd 11: 2sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st (8sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc in each st around (8sts)
Once again begin to firmly stuff and shape the leg as the pattern progresses, leaving the top 3 rounds of the leg unstuffed.
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times (10sts)
- Rnds 14-21: Sc in each st around (10sts for 8Rnds)
- Rnd 22: [Sc2tog] 5 times (5sts)
- Rnd 23: 2sc in each st around (10sts)
- Rnds 24-33: Sc in each st around (10sts for 10Rnds)
- Rnd 34: Ch 1, press the top edges together parallel with the direction of the toes and sc the two edges together (5sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the leg to the body.
Arms
Make 2
The arm begins with making three fingers, joining them together and then making the arm portion.
Using Color (A) – Spring Green
- Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle (5sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (10sts)
- Rnds 3-4: Sc in each st around (10sts for 2Rnds)
Firmly stuff and shape the finger and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 5: [Sc2tog] 5 times (5sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (5sts)
- For the first two fingers fasten off. If making the third finger continue as directed below.
Leave the next portion of the hand unstuffed.
- Rnd 7: Sc in the next 2sts (leave the remaining sts unworked for now), [pick up another finger and inserting the hook from the right side of the work to the wrong of the work sc in stitch number 4 and 5 of this finger (leave the remaining sts unworked for now)] 2 times, sc in the remaining 3sts of the third finger, on the second finger: sc in the remaining 3sts, on the first finger: sc in the remaining 3sts (15sts)
- Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times (12sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times (9sts)
- Rnd 10: [Sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 3sts (6sts)
- Rnd 11: 2sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st (8sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc in each st around (8sts)
Once again begin to firmly stuff and shape the arm as the pattern progresses, leaving the top 4 rounds of the arm unstuffed.
>Design Tip: Leaving the top few rounds unstuffed on an amigurumi piece helps the arm to lie flatter against the body when attached rather than sticking straight out.
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times (10sts)
- Rnds 14-17: Sc in each st around (10sts for 4Rnds)
- Rnd 18: [Sc2tog] 5 times (5sts)
- Rnd 19: 2sc in each st around (10sts)
- Rnds 20-26: Sc in each st around (10sts for 7Rnds)
- Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 2 times (8sts)
- Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times (6sts)
- Ch 1, press the top edges together parallel with the direction of the fingers and sc the two edges together (3sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the arm to the body.
Spots
Make one of each size.
Using Color (D) – Lemon
Small Spot
- Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle (5sts)
- Sl st to the first st, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in the starting tail.
Medium Spot
- Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle (5sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (10sts)
- Sl st to the first st, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in the starting tail.
Large Spot
- Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle (5sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (10sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 5 times (15sts)
- Sl st to the first st, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in the starting tail.
Assembly
Placement
Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire frog. A general placement suggestion:
- The head is positioned centered on the body in the front at between about Rnd 21 of the head and in the back at about Rnd 18-19.
- The white’s of the eye are positioned with the back of the eye on about the horizontal midline of the head and the inner eyes between about Rnds 2 and 3 on either side.
- The eyelids are placed over the white’s of the eye so the bottom back is flush with the head (no white shows through). The arch over the top just covers the magic circle on the white of the eye. The clean edge is towards the front of the eye. The inner part of the eyelids should be close, having 1-2 stitches between them on the inside of the eye when placed.
- The pupils are centered on the white’s of the eye with the upper half sitting on the eye and the lower half sitting on the face.
- The legs are positioned side by side in front of the body at about Rnd 2.
- The arms are positioned approximately two rows down from where the head was attached on either side of the body.
- On the back: The large spot is placed to the left with the bottom of the spot at about Rnd 6. The medium spot is positioned to the right with the bottom of the spot about Rnd 9. The small spot is positioned to the left with the bottom of the spot about Rnd 14.
Stitching
- Stitch the head to the body. Add additional stuffing right before closing the hole.
- Stitch the whites of the eyes to the head. Add additional stuffing just before closing the hole if needed.
- Stitch on the eyelids. First across the back to the head and then across the arch to the white part of the eye.
- Stitch on the pupils.
- Add two small stitches to the tip of the nose for the nostrils using Color (C) – Black approximately between Rnds 11 and 12, about 2sts apart and about 2sts long.
- Stitch each leg on along the back, tack along the side for about two rows, tack across the front at the same place, and then tack along the other edge to the back (essentially stitch a small rectangle across the top of the leg, securing the leg to the body).
- Stitch the arms across the top of the arm on both the outside and the underside of the arm.
- Stitch the spots to the back of the body.
- Optional Shaping: Add a bit more definition to the frogs mouth by using a long length of Color (A) – Spring Green and a tapestry needle to pull the stitches together.
General stitching placement and information is given in the picture (note the red wavy lines) and written below. Adaptations may be needed based on the individual frog made.
>Design Note: While shaping it is recommended to observe after each stitch to see if the desired shaping is being achieved. It’s easiest to immediately take out the pulled stitch(es) if the shaping is not preferred, re-situate the needle and try again rather than pull everything tight and then try to remove stitches.
Begin by anchoring the yarn into the front right side of the face and then position the needle through about Rnds 16-17 lined up with about the middle of the pupil and a couple stitches over from the black nostril mark.
Work up through the face to about Rnds 10-11 (about a row above the black nostril marks) and then move over about a stitch to the left and work through Rnds 10-11 back down through to Rnds 16-17, pulling and shaping the nose/mouth with each stitch. Move over a st to the left and repeat for about a total of 7 stitches across the front center of the face.
Now, with another length of anchored yarn, work approximately three rows below the eyes down through to about three rows above the body on the head to further shape the jaw for about 2sts under each eye. Weave up and down through the head, pulling to tighten to the desired shape. Careful not to distort the eyes too much.
Looking for More Great Patterns?
These may be of interest! 1. Crochet Puppy Dog 2. Simple Amigurumi Penguin 3. Ridged Crochet Feathers in Four Sizes
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Copyright and Use Policy
This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using my social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!
I just can’t get over those cute little green feet! Jen, you are so incredibly talented! Love this frog!!
Thank you! His feet are one of my favorite parts too!
I am so happy I found you. Your patterns are so cute and free too.
Thank you, thank you.
Welcome! I’m so glad that you’re here too and that you’ve found some things that you love. You definitely added an extra smile to my day! 🙂
Don’t forget to sign up for the newsletter (if you haven’t already) if you’d like to receive notice of when new posts come up on the blog! Take care and I hope to chat again soon!
The Ravelry link doesn’t work.
Hmmm….they all seem to be working on my end. Let me know if you’re still having issues and which link you’re using in the post and I’ll see if there’s something else I can do. Thanks for letting know. I appreciate the feedback. Take care.
I made the frog he doesn’t look as good as yours but it’s not bad.
Thank you so very much for the free patterns.
I’ve been doing this for a lot of years. Practice will get you where you want to be. I’m so glad that you’re enjoying the patterns.
I love frogs! Especially since I learned that FROG means Fully Rely On God. This is awesome! Thank you son,I have.
Ok I do not understand row 12 on the head which I’m guessing is the nose. Is there a video showing how to do this?
Sorry, no, I do not currently have a video but plan to in the future. Let me help explain the row and we can go from there if you need more help.
Rnd 12: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 8sts, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st ] 3 times, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st (48sts)
Okay, let’s break it down:
2sc means 2 sc in the same st or an increase, then you will sc for 9sts, for the items in the brackets [ ] you will repeat the sequence there for the number of times indicated. So for the first bracket [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times you will increase in the next st then sc in the next and do that 3 times total (it takes place over a total of 6sts), then you will sc in the next 8sts, then there’s a bracket again [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st ] 3 times so you will sc in the next st and then increase in the next st for 3 times total (once again, it takes place over 6sts), then sc in the next 9sts and end with an increase in the last st.
Does that make sense? Let me know if you need further clarification. I’m glad to help. 😀
I love this frog but I don’t understand and can’t follow the instructions on how the feet(the 3 toes are attached to make the feet ) Hope you can explain it further .
Thank you.
Hello Jen..
This referas to my earlier comment. To reply, my correct email address : it should be….
Thank you.
Yhan
I’ve sent further instructions for the legs to your requested email. We can chat there now.
I also deleted your email in your comment so that it’s not accessible to others.
I need further instructions on the feet
Hello! I’m glad to help. You can put your questions here or better yet, reach out to me via the contact page which will allow us to then email back and forth, including images, etc. to help you get your questions resolved. You can find that contact page at the top of the Jen Hayes Creations website and here is the direct link too. https://www.jenhayescreations.com/contact/