Small Animal Collection: Elephant

I’m so excited to introduce you to this new pattern, the Small Animal Collection Elephant! Elsee and her brother Oliver are both enthusiastic about joining the rest of their friends as part of the Small Animal Collection!

Elsee is the happiest when she’s dancing, swimming, and painting pictures for her friends. Oliver, her older brother, is always on the lookout for Elsee because she and her pink bow, while always fun to be around, tend to get into a bit of mischief now and then. 

Oliver knows she doesn’t mean to, but her inquisitive behavior leaves plenty of opportunities for him to use his problem-solving skills to get them out of difficult situations. Even when she’s getting them into trouble Oliver never forgets how much he loves his sister, Elsee.

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Tapestry Needle
• Pins
• Safety eyes, 9 mm (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Pet Slicker Brush (optional, for combing the tail if desired)
• Yarnspirations Caron One Pound (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, Approx. 812 yds/742 m, 16 oz/453.6 g):
  • Purple Elephant: Color (A) Lilac, less than 1 skein (approx 2.15 oz), Color (B) White, small amount, Color (C) Black, small amount, Color (D) Soft Pink, small amount
  • Grey Elephant: Color (A) Soft Grey Mix, less than 1 skein (approx 2.15 oz), Color (B) White, small amount, Color (C) Black, small amount

Gauge

Gauge is not essential to this project, but tension should be maintained.

Sizing/Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) about 6.25 inches (16 cm) in the sitting position to the tip of the ear.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is primarily written in rounds, except for the ears and the tail. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. 
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Caution! If using safety eyes take into consideration who will be using the item. The use of safety eyes is not recommended for children under the age of three or for those prone to putting things in their mouth as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand embroidered eyes are a great alternative! The Mouse in this design is also very small and could pose a choking hazard if swallowed.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• blo – back loop only
• bo -bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch – Chain
• dc – double crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• i-cord – described under the tail section
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Rows – Rows
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 2dcbo (two double crochet bobble) is used in this pattern. Essentially it’s 2 half-finished double crochets worked all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as one stitch, creating a puffy stitch.

You create the bobble as follows:

With the original single loop on your hook from your previous stitch(es)

1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook)
3. Yarn over and pull through two of the loops
4. Stop here! (two loops on your hook). If you were doing a full double crochet you would yarn over again and pull it through the final two loops to finish the dc, but with a bobble you stop halfway, leaving the extra loop on the hook. One of the legs completed.

Ok, now repeat steps 1-4, once more, inserting the hook into the same stitch that you just worked into. Also, remember that each time you repeat the sequence that you should have one more loop added to your hook.
Now, yarn over and pull through all three of the loops on your hook. This closes your bobble stitch. Congratulations, you just made a bobble!

>Design Note: When making bobbles some patterns will have you make a chain after you have made the bobble to secure them even more. I DO NOT have you make this chain in the pattern, simply make your sc in the next stitch followed by a bobble and so on as the pattern directs.

Let’s Make Our Elephant!

Head

The head is worked from the tip of the trunk to the back of the head.
Firmly stuff and shape the trunk and head as the pattern progresses.
Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts. (8sts)
• Rnds 5-7:  Sc in each st around. (8sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (10sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (10sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts. (11sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 4sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (13sts)
• Rnds 12-14: Sc in each st around. (13sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 3sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 4 times, sc in the next 2sts. (17sts)
• Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around. (17sts for 2 Rnds)

If using safety eyes insert them. Suggested placement is between Rnds 18 and 19 approximately 4sts apart.

• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st] 7 times, sc in the next 4sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 21:  [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnds 22-26: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 32: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure and weave in the end.

Body

The body is worked from the base up to the neck.
Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnds 7-12: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 6 Rnds)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnds 19-21: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the body to the head.

Legs

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: In blo: sc in the next 7sts, working in both loops and in Color (B): bo in the next st, working in both loops and in Color (A): sc in the next st, working in both loops and in Color (B): bo in the next st, working in both loops and in Color (A): sc in the next st, working in both loops and in Color (B): bo in the next st, in blo and in Color (A): sc in the next 6sts. (18sts)

Continuing in Color (A) and in both loops

• Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 7sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 5sts. (15sts)
• Rnds 7-9: Sc in each st around. (15sts for 3 Rnds)

Firmly stuff and shape the leg as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st. (13sts)
• Rnds 11-12: Sc in each st around. (13sts for 2 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.

Arms

Make 2

Using Color (A)

Firmly stuff and shape the arm as the pattern progresses leaving the top two rows unstuffed.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: In blo: sc in the next 4sts, working in both loops and in Color (B): bo in the next st, working in both loops and in Color (A): sc in the next st, working in both loops and in Color (B): bo in the next st, working in both loops and in Color (A): sc in the next st, working in both loops and in Color (B): bo in the next st, in blo and in Color (A): sc in the next 3sts. (12sts)
• Rnds 4-6: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 2stsc, sc2tog] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnds 8-17: Sc in each st around. (9sts for 10 Rows)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.

Eyes

(Make 2 – if not using safety eyes)
Using Color (C)
Cut a piece of yarn about 25 inches (64 cm) long. Looking at the individual strands pull the pieces apart so that there two strands in each section. One section will be used for each eye.

> Design Tip: For larger eyes do not separate the strands. Using a thinner yarn also works for smaller eyes.

• Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch the eye to the head. Weave in the starting tail.

Ears

The ears are worked in rows.

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Row 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Row 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Row 2: Ch 1, turn, [2sc in the next st] 4times, sc in the next 2sts. (10sts)
• Row 3: Ch 1, turn, [sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 4 times, sc in the next 2sts. (14sts)
• Row 4: Ch 1, turn, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 4 times, [2sc in the next st] 2 times. (20sts)
• Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as a stitch. It may be helpful to put a st marker in the top of this ch), turn, dc in same st, dc in the next 2sts, hdc in the next 2sts, leave the remaining stitches unworked. (6sts)

>Design Note: In a couple of rows the skipped sts will be worked into. It may be helpful to put a st marker in the 1st unworked st to help identify it later.

• Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (the last st should be in top of the ch 2). (6sts)
• Row 7: Ch 1, turn, hdc in the next 2sts, sl st in the next 4sts, ch 1, sc in the 1st unworked st of Row 5, sc in the next st, hdc in the next 4sts, [2hdc in the next st] 5 times, hdc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, sl st in the next st. (26sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the ear to the head. Weave in the beginning tail.

Tusks

If using, Make 2

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 4 sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (4sts)
• Row 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
• Rnds 2-4: Sc in each st around. (4sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts. (5sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the tusks to the face.

>Design Note: The tusks are not stuffed except for the starting tail that is there.

Tail

The tail is created by making an i-cord.

A full tutorial with pictures on How to Crochet an I-Cord can be foud HERE.

Using Color (A)

• Ch 3

>Design Tip: In the next part work into the back bar of the sts as directed. This will make for a more professional looking i-cord by making the base flat.

• Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, insert hook into next ch, yarn over and draw up a loop. (3 loops on hook)
• Row 1: Carefully drop 2 loops from hook. Holding onto the dropped loops with your non-dominant hand (the one not holding the hook) so they don’t come undone, ch1, insert hook into the closest dropped loop to the hook, ch 1 (2 loops on hook), insert hook into the next dropped loop, ch 1 (3 loops on hook).
• Rows 2-8: Repeat Row 1.
• Finish the i-cord by slip stitching through each loop on the hook. Described: With three loops on the hook, yarn over, draw through the first loop (still 3 loops on hook, but one is the new working yarn), yarn over, draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through last two loops on the hook, cut yarn keeping a tail long enough to stitch the first and last sl st together (to keep a tubular shape) and to attach the tail to the body.

>Design Note: An alternative way of ending an i-cord is to yarn over and pull through all three loops at once, cut the yarn (leaving the extra length for stitching to the body), and fasten off. This method, however, will draw the end to a slight point. Arguably, the point may not be noticed once attached to the body. You decide what you like better!

• Cut 6 strips of Color (A) approximately 6 inches (15cm) in length. Holding two pieces together at a time loop them onto the bottom end of the tube. Brush using a pet slicker brush if desired and trim.

Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire elephant and stitch securely into place with a tapestry needle. Remember to add additional stuffing before closing the holes to fill in the gaps as appropriate.

>Design Notes: I attached my elephant’s arms at the top but then also tacked them down to the body about 6 rows down from the top of the arm because I liked it better how the arms laid this way, but in my opinion wasn’t a necessity. It’s your choice! For the ears, I chose to stitch them on in both the front and the back of the ear. I felt that it gave the ear more stability. I also left about the bottom two rows unstitched from the head because I personally liked the look. My ears are stitched on at about Rnd 23 or 24 and about 6 sts apart, but place yours how you think they look best. I made several of these guys and varying placement just adds more character to each member of the herd!

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Let’s Make a Bow!

Using Color (D)

>Design Note: The hairbow uses sl sts that will need to be worked into. Don’t make them too tight or it will be difficult to stitch into them later. If desired these sl sts can be replaced with sc, but it will modify the hairbow slightly.

• Ch 12
• Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook, hdc in the next 3sts, sl st in the next 2sts, hdc in the next 4sts. (10sts)
• Row 2: Ch1, turn, hdc in the next 4sts, sl st in the next 2sts, hdc in the next 4sts. (10sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Center Part of the Bow

>Design Option: Proceed with the following instructions or simply take a long piece of yarn and wrap it around the middle as many times as desired and then secure the end and fasten it to the head.

• Ch 6, wrap the chain around the center portion of the bow, sl st to the 1st ch to join.
• Row 1: Ch1, sc in the same st, sc in the next 5sts, sl st to the 1st to join. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the bow to the head. Weave the other end into the bow piece to secure the two pieces together.

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Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Classic Crochet Teddy Bear 2. Crochet Bobble Sheep 3. Small Animal Collection: Horse

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!