I have a confession to make. I have made A LOT of crochet hats in my lifetime. I’ve made them big and small, to sell, to give as gifts, and to give away for charity. I’ve made them for dolls and bears and whatever other toy my children thought needed a hat. What’s the big confession then? Don’t gasp……I don’t personally own a single hat that I’ve made! You see, I like making hats, but this short spiky hair of mine doesn’t do hats too well unless I plan on leaving it on all day, so I don’t often wear a hat. Technically, I’ve made several for myself, but in the end, decided that someone else could really use it more than I. Recently I decided to change this no hat for Jen issue though. I sat down with the clear intention to make a hat just for me. I’ve been loving the slouchy hats popping up everywhere, so a Slouchy Crochet Beanie it would be!
With yarn and hook in hand, I decided to just create. In the mood for back loop and front post stitches, this beanie is more on the intermediate level of difficulty, but I’ve never been one to tell someone that they can’t try! It’s all a matter of learning your basic stitches and then knowing where to place your hook!
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Let’s Get Started!
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size J/10 (6.0 mm)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, Approx 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Dark Sage, used less than 1 skein
Gauge
Using hook size J/10 (6.0 mm), 14sts and 8 rows = 4″ (10 cm) in double crochet (dc)
Design Notes
- The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
- At the end of each round, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
- Chains at the beginning of the rounds do not count as a stitch throughout the project.
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- BLO – work in the back loop only
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- fpdc – front post double crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- hdcinc – half double crochet increase (make 2 hdc in the same st)
- adjustable circle – (also called a magic ring, magic loop, and a combination of these names)
- Rnd(s) – round(s)
- sc -single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(s)
- [ ] – work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
Let’s Make Our Slouchy Crochet Beanie!
The Slouchy Crochet Beanie is worked from the crown of the hat down to the brim.
It is recommended to use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
The chains at the beginning of each round DO NOT count as a stitch, so the first stitch will be worked right next to the chain in that same st.
- Rnd 1: 12dc in an adjustable circle. Join with a slst to the 1st st. (12sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch4 and then put 12 dc in the 4th chain from hook, sl st to the 1st st to join. (12sts)
- Rnd 2: Ch 2, work a hdc and then a fpdc in each stitch around, sl st to the 1st st to join. (24sts)
- Rnd 3: Working in BLO: Ch 2, [hdc in the next st, hdcinc in the next st] 12 times, sl st to the 1st st to join. (36sts)
- Rnd 4: Working in BLO: Ch 2, [hdc in the next 2sts, hdcinc in the next st] 12 times, sl st to the 1st st to join. (48sts)
- Rnd 5: Working in BLO: Ch 2, [hdc in the next 3sts, hdcinc in the next st] 12 times, sl st to the 1st st to join. (60sts)
- Rnd 6: Working in BLO: Ch 2, [hdc in the next 4sts, hdcinc in the next st] 12 times, sl st to the 1st st to join. (72sts)
- Rnd 7: Working in BOTH loops: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to the 1st st to join. (72sts)
- Rnd 8: Ch 2, [hdc in the next st, fpdc in the next st] 36 times, sl st to the 1st st to join. (72sts)
- Rnds 9-11: Repeat Rnd 8. (72sts for 3 Rnds)
- Rnd 12: Working in BLO: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to the 1st st to join. (72sts)
- Rnd 13: Repeat Rnd 7. (72sts)
- Rnd 14-17: Repeat Rnd 8. (72sts for 4 Rnds)
- Rnd 18: Repeat Rnd 12. (72sts)
- Rnd 19: Repeat Rnd 13. (72sts)
- Rnds 20-23: Repeat Rnd 8. (72sts for Rnds)
- Rnd 24: Repeat Rnd 12. (72sts)
- Rnd 25: Repeat Rnd 13. (72sts)
>Design Option: If you want a beanie that doesn’t slouch then this might be a good place to stop. Try it on and see how you like the fit.
- Rnds 26-29: Repeat Rnd 8. (72sts for 4 Rnds)
- Rnd 30: Repeat Rnd 12. (72sts)
- Rnd 31: Repeat Rnd 13. (72sts)
>Design Option: Want your beanie to slouch even more? Continue to work the pattern to the desired length repeating the sequence, ending with a repeat of Rnd 13.
- Fasten off and weave in ends.
Do you just love it as much as I do?!! ……….well, did? Have you ever found that some of the things you make just ask to be given to a certain special someone? This beanie was technically supposed to be for me, but over the course of our photo shoot ( as you may have guessed from the pictures) I quickly discovered that in fact, it wasn’t really meant for me……and I’m good with that. Maybe the next one really will be for me, but I don’t think I’ll hold my breath. It’s just so much fun to give them away!
Looking for more free patterns?
These may be of interest! 1. Double Stitch Window Crochet Scarf 2. Rosette Swirl Crochet Cupcake 3. Crochet Bobble Sheep
Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!
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Copyright and Use Policy
This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!
Susan says
Thanks so much for the free pattern, Jen. I’ve been making Chemo Hats to give away. This is perfect………and pretty.
Jen says
Susan! This makes me so happy to hear. What a beautiful thing for you to do for others. I’m honored that you’ve chosen to use my pattern to bless others. Bless you, for adding more kindness to the world! 🙂
Kdubb says
Beautiful pattern! In Round 2, is the fpdc in the stitch below or around the HDC?
Jen says
Thank you! I’m glad that you like it. 🙂 Round 2 is an increase round. The hdc is worked in the top of the sts of Round 1 as you normally would, and the fpdc sts are done in the sts below. If I can help in any other way, please let me know. 🙂
Gramcar says
Love it!! Thank you so much for sharing your pattern…
Jen says
You’re so welcome!
Lizette says
Hi Jen- I really like this pattern. I worked through to learn it and it came out too big. I will redo it but what do you suggest?
-Decrease stitches during the hdc rows?
-use different yarn?
-use different hook?
-crochet with tighter tension?
Thanks!
Lizette
Jen says
Hey, Lizette! This is one of my very first patterns. What I need to do is go back and remake it and add a gauge to the pattern that you (and others) could reference for sizing. That said, you gave great options. The yarn I used was Caron Simply Soft, a lighter worsted yarn so that could impact it some if you’re using a heavy worsted, but really shouldn’t affect it too much. If you don’t like the length you can reduce the number of repeats so it’s not as slouchy. Otherwise yes, I would first look at using a different hook size going down in size for a smaller hat and if necessary looking at your tension. Does that help? Let me know if you are still having trouble or have additional questions. I’m glad to help.
Rachel Wade says
I’m new to following patterns and I am a little confused when I get to the 3rd round. Wondering if you would consider making a video or two?
Jen says
Video is something that I plan to have for my patterns in the future. Due to various consequences of Covid, my work time has significantly decreased so I have not yet been able to take on the additional task of making video as I had hoped to do. It’s coming, but not quite yet. However, I’m very glad to walk you through what is confusing you though.
Let me break down Rnd 3 and you can then let me know if you still have questions.
This is how it’s written:
Rnd 3: Working in blo for this round: ch2, hdc in the first st, hdcinc in the next, [hdc in the next st, hdcinc in the next st] 11 times, Join with a slst to the 1st st (36sts)
Broken down:
Round 3 is worked in the back loops only (blo) of the stitches for the entire round rather than through both loops. You’re going to chain 2 (this doesn’t count as a st) and then hdc in that same first stitch (where your stitch marker is from the previous round. Go ahead and mark this first hdc again with a stitch marker as your first stitch of the round).
In the next stitch you will make a half double crochet increase (hdcinc). This is a fancy way of saying put two half double crochet in the same stitch.
The next section of the pattern it’s written in parenthesis….[hdc in the next st, hdcinc in the next st] 11 times…..for this, the sequence in parenthesis is repeated around the hat for a total of 11 times. So in the third stitch you’ll make a half double crochet. In the fourth stitch you’ll again make a half double crochet increase (hdcinc) as described earlier. The completion of the hdc and the hdcinc counts as one time. So repeat this sequence again for an additional 10 times and this should get you all the way around the hat.
The final step of the round is to slip stitch to the first stitch of the round which we noted earlier by marking it with a stitch marker. This completes Rnd 3.
I hope that helps. Let me know if you still have any questions. I’m glad to help you get this figured out and I will work my way towards video in the future. Thanks for understanding.
Phyllis Maggio says
Follow the measurements for the crown measurement should be 7.5inches across. look up hat sizes. So that would mean to do increases until the circle is 7.5 inches across. With a 4 weight yarn like red heart it’s about 60 stitches. I hope that helps.
Phyllis Maggio says
Follow the measurements for the crown measurement should be 7.5inches across. look up hat sizes. So that would mean to do increases until the circle is 7.5 inches across. With a 4 weight yarn like red heart it’s about 60 stitches. I hope that helps.
Izzy says
Can you help me with lining up row 8. I can’t get the hdc and fpdc to align in a way that is consistent throughout the beanie and cannot find any videos that show this particular combination. But the hdc through both loops leaves the fpdc in an odd spot as well.
Jen says
Great question. Let’s look at this together. As I move forward and begin making video for my designs I’ll have to work through this one, but for now, let’s see if I can walk you through it. If needed, we can move the conversation to email as well to go more in-depth. I think it’s going to work best if we look at Rnd 7 and walk through what is happening with Rnd 8 without making any stitches at first. Let me point out places that might be making it not work out for you in Rnd 8 and you can let me know if what I’ve said helps or if further explanation is needed. I’ll post Rnd 8 below for reference as we chat too.
Rnd 8: Ch2, [hdc in the next st, fpdc in the next st] 12 times, sl st to the 1st st to join. (72sts)
Remember, just look at Rnd 7 to disect it with me first. Remember that the chain 2 doesn’t count as a st. The very first hdc is going to be placed right next to the chain in the same (first) stitch that was joined to when finishing Rnd 7. Note this stitch. Then note that right to the left of this, before getting to the next st, is the post that belongs to the first st. This first post will be skipped and the next post you see is where the first fpdc will be worked into. Now take a minute to pair the stitch and the post that go together in the round. This should help your brain begin to recognize which stitches the hdc will be worked into and which will be skipped (every other one) and which posts will be worked and skipped (also every other one). If it helps use stitch markers to note what stitches needs to happen where to help it be more visually clear as well.
Note that as you begin to actually work Rnd 8 that all the hdc (after the first one) are worked right next to the fpdc that was just created. Following this, the fpdc makes you reach a bit because you have to skip the top of the stitch to get to the post. It may also be helpful to recognize that the stitch to work into for the hdc may even look covered by the previous fpdc and therefore be more easily skipped on accident. That’s why (in my opinion) initially noting which stitch goes with which post helps so much to keep things clear.
In Rnds 9-11 you’ll be repeating Rnd 8, so when you finish Rnd 8 take a minute to look at what is happening again with the stitches before working it. You’ll see where the hdc where made that their posts are a bit shorter and sit back a little compared to the fpdc that are longer and sit forward in the work. In this way you’ll know (after the first hdc of the round is made) that the next fpdc will be made around the previous longer fpdc post and the hdc will go right next to it in that next st, and this will happen all the way around.
I hope that helps. If not, please don’t hesitate to say so, and we’ll go from there.
Paul Busman says
I FINALLY figured this out!
“Note that as you begin to actually work Rnd 8 that all the hdc (after the first one) are worked right next to the fpdc that was just created.”
The stitch where you have to put a HDC after a FPDC can be almost hidden by the FPDC. I found that after I make the post stitch, I have to gently pull the stitch to the right, and then I can find the stitch where I need to put the HDC. Kind of sneaky!
Izzy says
Yay! I finally got in the groove and it’s smooth sailing! Thank you for the creative and fun beanie!
Jen says
Awesome! So glad that you got it figured out. Happy Crocheting! Enjoy your beanie!
Susie says
Hello,
What size is this beanie supposed to be? I finished the first section of fpdc and it seemed way too small for an adult-sized head…
Jen says
Others have said this same thing….and yet, ironically many have found that it is too big for their adult head and adjust their hook size. My head is 22 inches around and it’s fit’s me as written. Honestly, this was one of my earlier patterns and I need to go back and remake it to add more finished measurements, but have not done so yet. If you’re on Ravelry you can read other maker’s notes if you would like here https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/slouchy-beanie-35/people and I’m of course glad to help if you have further questions.