Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome

Get ready to have your heart stolen by the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome. She’d love to hang out at all your holiday parties especially, if she can bring her friends the Leprechaun Gnomes, Norbin the Gnome, and her other Girlfriend Gnomes.

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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>PDF Pattern Note: I’ve combined the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome and the Crochet Girl Gnome pattern into one PDF. So, your PDF purchase will include instructions to complete both patterns including the two hat options and instructions for the heart, flower, and clover applique.

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The Inspiration

The inspiration for the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome came from several places. To be honest, when I started making her, her name was going to be Norma Nibbleweed, the devoted wife to Norbin Nibbleweed, a pattern that can also be found here on the blog.

Norbin is the first gnome pattern that I shared here on the blog and he has been SO very loved and I thank you for that. He is the perfect pattern to customize to any situation or celebration by changing out the yarn colors you’re using. It wasn’t too long after sharing him that I began getting requests for a girl version. I had plans to do so, but in between I made MANY other gnomes, and figured that it was about time that he had a wife.

In the process of designing her, however, the Crochet Girl Gnomes came about because I loved her pointy hat as it was to sit next to Norbin in his hat, but I also wanted a gnome for Valentine’s Day and spring with a different floppier-brimmed hat.

Valentine’s Day comes before Saint Patrick’s Day, so, by this pure scientific logic, the Crochet Girl Gnomes became the priority (and got released first) while I simultaneously finished up a few touches on Norma.

Then I realized that she also pairs quite nicely with the Leprechaun Gnomes! Norbin is often considered a leprechaun due to his orange beard and green outfit, but his outfit is simpler to make than his Leprechaun Gnome friends.

Honestly, she pairs beautifully with both so I’ll let you decide which you prefer. Maybe all three! If you add in all the various green options before you know it you might have a whole family of leprechauns and their wives, daughters, sisters, aunts, nieces, cousins…….lol, you get the idea.

So there you have it, how Norma Nibbleweed also became the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome. However you decide to use the pattern I hope that you enjoy making her. Happy Crocheting!

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The Yarn

The Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome, like the other gnomes on the blog, was made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft. It is a well-known and widely available yarn both online and in many craft stores. It has been long loved by many crafters because of its softness, ease of care, and wide selection of colors.

It’s a lighter worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that has a bit of a sheen to it. It comes in a wide range of colors and styles including the regular simply soft solids, collection, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites, stripes, paints, speckles, camos, party, marled, and several more! Truly a wide variety to choose from for any project!

The biggest complaint that I hear about Caron Simply Soft yarn is that it can have a tendency to split. Honestly, I must agree that this can be the case. When I first started using the yarn I had more trouble than I do now.

Once I learned how my hook and crochet style interacted with the yarn I rarely have this issue. In fact, when it comes to acrylic yarns it has become one of my go-to yarns over the years for making amigurumi. I just love that it’s a bit lighter than many comparable worsted acrylics and having a wider selection of color options is a favorite in my book.

In this design, I specifically chose to use mostly solid colors of green to go along with the theme of Saint Patrick’s Day, but she would also work up beautifully in any other color.

Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size of the may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. The miniature version seen in some of the images was made from size 10 crochet cotton with a 1.5 mm hook. Making the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome in other yarn sizes has not been tested, but should also likely work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use mostly Clover Amour Hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• 2 – 9 mm buttons (optional)
• Sewing Thread and needle for stitching buttons (optional)
• Dritz Disc Needle Puller (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Bone, used approx. 52yds/47.5 m; Color (B) Dark Sage, used approx. 125 yds/114  m; Color (C) Off White, used approx. 16 yds/15 m; Color (E) Pumpkin, used approx. 22 yds/20 m; Color (G) Pistachio, used approx. 22 yds/20 m
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (D) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 15yds/14 m; Color (F) Grey Heather, used approx. 15 yds/14 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome measures approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the bottom of the foot to the top of the hat.

Note: The miniature Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome in the images was made using the same pattern with a 1.50 mm hook and size 10 crochet thread. It measures approximately 6 inches (15 cm) from the bottom of the foot to the top of the hat.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. When working in joined Rnds or in Rows it will be noted in the pattern.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loops only
• bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• hdc – half double crochet
• MR – magic ring (a.k.a. magic circle, adjustable ring)
• rep – repeat
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
• sl st – slip stitch
• standing sc
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• tr – treble crochet
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as many times as directed

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in the pattern. 

To create a 3dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)

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>PDF Pattern Note: I’ve combined the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome and the Crochet Girl Gnome pattern into one PDF. So, your PDF purchase will include instructions to complete both patterns including the two hat options and instructions for the heart, flower, and clover applique.

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Let’s Make Our Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome!

>Design Note: The pattern gives instructions to create the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome in the Dark Sage, Color (B), dress. To make her in the Pistachio, Color (G), dress swap Color (B) and Color (G) throughout all the directions.

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off.
• Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Set aside for later.

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Body

>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom up, seamlessly joining the nose as the pattern progresses.

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnds 9-13: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 14: In BLO: Sc in each st around. With an additional stitch marker, mark the front loop of the 1st stitch of Rnd 13 to be returned to later when making the skirt. (48sts) 
• Rnds 15-19: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 5 Rnds) 

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 20: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (48sts) 
• Rnds 21-22: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)

In the next two rounds, the nose is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the bottom of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)

• Rnd 24: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the top of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next st on the nose closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)

>Design Option: If using buttons on the blouse/dress it is easier to stitch them on before stuffing the body. Stitch them on, centered under the nose, over Rnds 14-19 making sure not to cover the front loops left from Rnd 13. Variation 1 uses one, 12 mm heart button, and variations 2 and 3 use two, 9 mm round buttons. A design (such as Xs or —s) can also be hand embroidered, or it can be left plain. (The miniature version has hand-embroidered Xs.)

• Rnds 25-33: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 9 Rnds) 

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

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Skirt

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The skirt is worked in joined rounds. The chain(s) at the beginning of the Rnd and the sl st to join at the end do not count as a stitch. The first stitch of the next Rnd is always worked in the same st as the sl st.

• Rnd 1: With the bottom of the body facing up, insert the hook into the first loop of Rnd 13 of the body (previously marked with a st marker). [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times, sl st to the first st to join. (60sts) 
• Rnd 2: Ch 2, [dc in the next 4sts, 2dc in the next st] 12 times, sl st to the first st to join. (72sts)
• Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (72sts)
• Rnd 4: Ch 2, [dc in the next 5sts, 2dc in the next st] 12 times. (84sts)

Switch to Color (G)

• Rnd 5: Sl st to the first st to join, ch 1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in the next st, skip the next st] 42 times, sl st to the first st to join. (42 clusters & 42 skipped sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

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Hand and Arm

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, 3dcbo, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts). 
• Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts) 

Firmly stuff and shape the hand. 

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 8: In FLO: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts) 
• Rnds 9-17: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 9 Rnds)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts) 

Lightly stuff the arm, leaving the last couple of Rnds unstuffed.

• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up parallel with the thumb. The 3sts worked in Rnd 18 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed together. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the arm to the body and set aside for later.

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Shoe and Leg

Make 2

>Design Note: The shoe begins by working on both sides of the foundation ch.

Using Color (D)

• Ch 9
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this as the starting st), sc in the next 6sts, 3sc in the last st (corner rounded and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (18sts)
• Rnd 2: [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next 2sts, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc2tog. (30sts) 

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 4: In BLO: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 29sts. (30sts)
• Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts. (24sts) 
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 7sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts. (20sts) 
• Rnd 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (16sts) 

>Design Note: In the next Rnd, the legs will begin. The legs are worked in stripes. To minimize jogging a sl st will be used for the first st when a color change is made. A regular sc can be replaced if desired. There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each Rnd. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes. 

Firmly stuff and shape the shoe but leave the leg unstuffed.

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 10: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (16sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)

Switch to Color (F)

• Rnd 12: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 14: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (F)

• Rnd 16: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 18: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (F)

• Rnd 20: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 22: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (F)

• Rnd 24: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 26: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (F)

• Rnd 28: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 30: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 31: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (F)

• Rnd 32: Sc in the next st, leave the remaining sts unworked. (1st)

• Press the tube flat so the leg is perpendicular to the toe of the shoe. The st worked in Rnd 32 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed together. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case. Cut Color (C) for all variations and tuck the tail inside the leg. Sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body. 

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Braids

Make 2

>Design Note: The braid is made as one piece, worked in turned rows. Once constructed, it will have a top base point (2sts in length) which will be stitched to the body and three separate strands that will be used to create the braid. 

Using Color (E)

• Ch 35
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (34sts)
• Row 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), turn, sc in the next 2sts, ch 33. (35sts)
• Row 3: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, twist the work at the top base point to be able to sc in the 2sts from Row 2. (34sts)
• Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 2sts, ch 33. (35sts)
• Row 5: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, twist the work at the top base point to be able to sc in the 2sts from Row 4. (34sts) 
• Fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch the braid to the body. Weave in the starting tail. 
• Braid the three strands together. Using a long length of Color (G), tack and wrap the base of the braid, leaving about a 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) of the three braided strands sticking out from the bottom of the wrap. Use a tapestry needle to weave the end back into the back side of the wrapping several times to secure it before fastening off. 

>Design Options: The braids could also be tied together using ribbon or a single piece of yarn or string tied in a bow. 

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Hat

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st. (11sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 7sts. (16sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in next st. (17sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 8sts. (18sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 10sts. (22sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in the next 21sts, 2sc in next st. (23sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 11sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (33sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 16sts. (34sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 33sts, 2sc in next st. (35sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 17sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 5 sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (45sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in the next 22sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 22sts. (46sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 45sts, 2sc in next st. (47sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in the next 23sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 23sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnds 28-33: Sc in each st around. (66sts for 6 Rnds)

Switch to Color (G)

• Rnd 34: [(Sc, ch2, sc) in the next st, skip the next st] 33 times, sl st to the first st to join. (33 clusters & 33 skipped sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

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Clover Applique

(Optional)

Make 1

Using Color (G) 

>Design Note: The Clover can be made with either 3 or 4 leaves.

• Working in MR (or alternatively, ch 5, sl st to the first st to form a ring and work into the ring): [Ch 3, tr, dc, tr, ch 3, sl st] 3-4 times depending on the desired number of leaves. Each cluster of stitches creates an additional leaf.
• Pull the ring taught. Do not fasten off yet. Continue with the stem.

Making the Stem

• Ch 8, 
• Working in the back bars of the ch: Sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (7sts)
• Sl st into a st at the base of the clover near the stem and fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the clover to the hat. Weave in the starting tail and set aside for later.

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Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome and stitch securely into place using a tapestry needle. 

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Arms: The arms are attached on either side of the body about 10-11 stitches away from the edge of the nose on either side, with the top point resting at approximately Rnd 19 of the body (the same color as the arm, where the front loops are showing) and rest just above the skirt. The thumbs on the hands should be facing up. Look at the Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Girl Gnome from the front to ensure that the arms look even before stitching. Stitch the arm to the body along the top of the arm. If desired, the arm can be tacked in additional places to keep it closer to the body. 

• Legs: Ensuring that they are centered with the face and that the feet are facing forward, pin the legs side by side about two rows in front of the magic ring on the base of the body. Attach each leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and at the top of each side of the leg for a couple of rows so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.

Image Left: The yarn is threaded through the shoe in preparation to tie the bow. Image Right: The bow has been tied, both laces knotted to prevent fraying, and one side cut.

• Embellishing the Shoes: (optional) – Using Color (B) (approx 12 in/30cm) and a tapestry needle, thread the length of yarn through the front of the shoe between about Rnd 8 and 9 so it’s equal length on each side. Tie a knot and bow as if tying a pair of tennis shoes, then adjust the size of the bows as desired. Tie knots in the long lengths of yarn on both sides (approx 0.5 in/1 cm from the center of the bow) to prevent fraying, and cut off the excess yarn. >Design Option: To ensure that the bow cannot be untied use a length of coordinating sewing thread to stitch the center of the bow. The bows could also be double-knotted, however it’s sometimes tricky to make them even. Small premade bows are also a great option, or the bows can be tied separately and then sewn on afterward.
• Braids: The braids can be placed as desired in the front of the body or to the side and at any length desired. As pictured, the top of the braids are placed at about Rnd 29-30 of the body (approximately 11-12 Rnds from the top of the body), approximately 2-3 stitches away from the nose on either side. Stitch the braids to the body along the top of the braid.    
• Clover Applique: If using, attach the back of the clover to the hat so it shows above the brim. As shown, it’s stitched on the front left of the hat over about Rnds 26-28 of the hat (approx 6-8sts up from the bottom decorative edging on the hat). The stitching was done only in the center of the clover so the leaves of the clover are left loose.
• Hat: Pull the hat down over the body so it rests on the top of the nose. Use an additional length of yarn in the same color as the hat to invisibly tack it to the body in several places so that it cannot be removed. Alternatively, the hat can be left removable.

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!