Mr. Drippy

Mr. Drippy, Lord High Lord of the Fairies is here in his original fairy form and I couldn’t be more excited to share the pattern with you! I’ve designed him with some fun shaping techniques too that will hopefully help you to expand upon your amigurumi making skills!

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The Inspiration

About a year ago I introduced you to Mr. Drippy, Lord High Lord of the Fairies in his Cursed Mr. Drippy form. (You can read more about him here if you’re not familiar with his story.)

Well, you had to know that I couldn’t just make one form and not the other. Knowing that the game Ni No Kuni will be coming out this week both for the Switch and the remastered version for the PC and PS4, I thought it the perfect time to design Mr. Drippy in his original fairy state.

Seriously, it had to be done! So without further ado I present to you the pattern for Mr. Drippy! I hope you enjoy making both of them too!

The Yarn

For this design I utilized some of the Red Heart Super Saver yarn that I had in my stash. When using acrylic yarn for my amigurumi projects Red Heart is one of my go to yarns because of it’s wide variety of color options.

The Pattern

An Important Note About Fan Art

I enjoy making and appreciate the craft of fan art. I love seeing what creators of all mediums come up with and share. Fan art is what got me back into crocheting after a long hiatus and has been a personal stress relief and lifesaver over the years. That said, I also strongly value the copyright of these licensed characters. While, as fans, we may create them because we love, admire, and appreciate them, it is very important that we recognize that the patterns and finished items should only be used for personal use, gift-giving, and spreading kindness but not to sell or gain profit.

Unlike my other patterns, the fan art pieces I share will NEVER have a printable PDF option, free or paid.

Mr. Drippy is a character from the video game design company Level-5. I in no way have any rights to this character. This piece is strictly fan art, my individual interpretation of this character in crochet form. My work is unofficial and has no connection with the creators in any way. If you are the copyright holder of this character and would prefer that this fan art piece is removed, please contact me and I will be glad to honor your wishes.

Difficulty

Intermediate. Pattern requires joining pieces together for seamless construction, some color changing within the round, bobble stitches, atypical pattern increasing/decreasing and stitch counts within the design, and the ability to shape the piece when stuffing to obtain desired forms.

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Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) hook 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing (I used approximately 12 oz)
• Tapestry Needle
• Pins
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing
• Length of 12 gauge wire or larger heavy gauge jump ring used for making jewelry (optional)
• Wire cutters, pliers, and a regular sized sharpie for shaping wire (optional)
• Safety glasses (if cutting wire to attach the lantern)
• Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g), Color (A) Jade, used approx. 75 yds/ 69 m, Color (B) Cornmeal, used approx. 93 yds/ 85 m, Color (C) Real Teal, used approx. 28 yds/ 26 m, Color (D) Soft White, used approx. 15 yds/ 14 m, Color (E) Black, used approx. 13 yds/ 12 m, Color (F) Gold, used approx. 18 yds/ 16 m, Color (G) Ranch Red, used approx. 13 yds/ 12 m, Color (H) Light Grey, used approx. 1 yd/ 1 m

Gauge

Exact gauge is not necessarily essential to this project, but tension tight enough to keep stuffing from showing through should be maintained.

That said to obtain similar dimensions to mine, using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first six rounds of the body = 2.5 inches (6 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Mr. Drippy measures approximately 9.5 inches (24 cm) tall sitting (not including the legs) and is approximately 16 inches (41 cm) in circumference at the widest point.

Design Notes

• This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. I chose to use a size E crochet hook. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing to show through. If a different-sized hook works better for you, then by all means, use it! Do note, however, that if you change the hook size or the type of yarn you are using, this will have an effect on the size and look of your finished item.
• This pattern is written primarily in rounds. If this is not the case it will be noted in the pattern.
• It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and to move it up as you start each additional round.
• At the end of each round, I will note in parenthesis how many stitches you should have once completed.
• Regarding yarn amounts used: When factoring the used amount I always add an additional 10 yds/ 9 m to each color, except for when small/scrap amounts are used (under 1 yd/1 m), to accommodate for varying tension and such. So if you are slightly under the suggested amount you might just be all right. Better more than not enough!

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• blo – back loop only
• bo -bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch – Chain
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Rows – Rows
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (I use the invisible decrease when working in the Rnd and a regular decrease when working in Rows)
• sc3tog – Single crochet 3 stitches together
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): In this pattern, we will be using the 5dcbo (five double crochet bobble). Essentially it’s 5 half finished double crochets all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as one stitch. And because that is all sorts of confusing, here are some directions! You create the bobble as follows:

With the original single loop on your hook from your previous stitch(es)

1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook)
3. Yarn over and pull through two of the loops
4. Stop here! (two loops on your hook). If you were doing a full double crochet you would yarn over again and pull it through the final two loops to finish the dc, but with a bobble you stop halfway, leaving the extra loop on the hook. One “leg” of the bobble is complete.

Ok, now repeat steps 1-4, four more times, inserting the hook into the same stitch that you just worked into. Also, remember that each time you repeat the sequence that you should have one more loop added to your hook (one more “leg” completed).
Now, yarn over and pull through all six of the loops on your hook. This closes your bobble stitch. Congratulations, you just made a bobble!

>Design Note: When making bobbles some patterns will have you make a chain after you have made the bobble to secure them even more. I DO NOT have you make this chain in the pattern, simply make your next stitch as directed in the pattern.

Let’s Make Mr. Drippy!

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (8sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 4 times (12sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around (12sts for 2 rounds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnds 7-9: Sc in each st around (18sts for 3 rounds)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnds 11-13: Sc in each st around (24sts for 3 rounds)
• Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnds 15-17: Sc in each st around (30sts for 3 rounds)
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnds 19-21: Sc in each st around (36sts for 3 rounds)
• Rnd 22: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnds 23-25: Sc in each st around (42sts for 3 rounds)
• Fasten off. Mark stitch 2 and stitch 29 for later when you join the nose to the head.

Body/Head

Mr. Drippy’s body and head are made in one piece with the nose being joined to the piece as you go. You will start at the base of the body and work up to the top of the head.

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (54sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (60sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (66sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (72sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in each st around (72sts)
• Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (78sts)
• Rnds 15-24: Sc in each st around (78sts for 10 rounds)
• Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog] 6 times (72sts)
• Rnds 26-28: Sc in each st around (72sts for 3 rounds)
• Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 6 times (66sts)
• Rnds 30-33: Sc in each st around (66sts for 4 rounds)

Switch to Color (B)

>Design Tip: When changing colors in the round you will get what is referred to as a jog or a stair step where the two colors change. This jog is easy to see and is not usually desirable.

I typically design my patterns so the color change will be in the back of the piece (as is the case with Mr. Drippy) but this isn’t always possible. There’s an easy way to make the jog far less noticeable, so let me share this technique with you so that you can apply it to making other amigurumi in the future as well!

There are a few ways to make the jog less noticeable, but perhaps the easiest way is to prepare to change colors as you normally would in the round but when you go to make the first stitch in the new color instead of making a sc, make a sl st and then continue on with the pattern as written.

The sl st still counts as the first stitch so you’ll work back into it in the next round as the pattern directs, but by starting out with the sl st you significantly reduce the jogging/stair step look. Hope this tip was helpful!

• Rnd 34: Sl st into the 1st st (counts as a st), sc in each st around (66sts)
• Rnds 35-36: Sc in each st around (66sts for 2 rounds)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 6 times (60sts)
• Rnd 38: Sc in each st around (60sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 6 times (54sts)
• Rnd 40: Sc in each st around (54sts)

>Design Note: In Rnd 41 you are going to be joining the nose to the head. I am also going to have you place some stitch markers so that you can better identify a few of the stitches when it comes time to work them in Rnd 42. Believe me, it’s helpful.

>Design Note: This note is a little help with joining the nose just in case you’re not familiar with the process. Utilize it when working Rnd 41 when it comes time to join if you need a little extra help/explanation. With the working loop still on the hook insert hook into st 1 of the nose from the wrong side of the piece to the right side then into st 23 of the head from the right side of the piece to the wrong side, yarn over and pull through both sts (2 loops on the hook), now yarn over and pull through both loops. You’ve now completed the first joined stitch! Now continue the same way in joining the other sts.

• Rnd 41: Sc in the next 22sts (place a stitch marker in the 22nd st), you’ll now join the nose to the head. Line up stitch 23 on the head with stitch 1 of the nose and sc these sts together, (Note: You marked two stitches earlier when making the nose. The sts you want to work are between the stitch markers. DO NOT remove the stitch markers from the nose yet. They will help with working Rnd 42. Just work the sts between them as directed.), sc the nose and the head together for the next 13sts (in total the joined sts should include sts 23-36 on the head and 1 down to 30 on the nose for a total of 14 attached sts), sc in the final 18sts on the head (mark the first of these 18sts with a stitch marker) (54sts)

• Rnd 42: On the head: sc in the next 21sts, sc2tog (this is st 22 on the head and st 2 on the nose that you marked earlier with a st marker. Once you complete the decrease you can remove the stitch marker), now working across the outer part of the nose: sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (this is st 29 on the nose and st 37 on the head that you marked earlier with a st marker. Once you complete the decrease you can remove the stitch marker), now on the body: sc in the next 17sts (72sts)
• Rnd 43: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 11 sts, sc2tog, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts (71sts)
• Rnd 44: Sc in each st around (71sts)
• Rnd 45: [Sc in the next 10sc, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the las 11sts (66sts)
• Rnd 46: [Sc in the next 9sc, sc2tog] 6 times (60sts)

Stuff and shape the nose and the body as you go. It will take a lot of stuffing. Take your time to adequately fill and shape Mr. Drippy.

• Rnd 47: [Sc in the next 8sc, sc2tog] 6 times (54sts)
• Rnd 48: [Sc in the next 7sc, sc2tog] 6 times (48sts)
• Rnd 49: [Sc in the next 6sc, sc2tog] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 50: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 20sts, sc2tog, sc in the the next 6sts (40sts)
• Rnd 51: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 19sts, sc2tog, sc in the the next 5sts (38sts)
• Rnd 52: Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the the next st (40sts)

>Design Tip: Continue to stuff and shape right up until you close your final hole. Use your chopstick to add stuffing as your hole gets smaller.

• Rnd 53: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 4 times (36sts)
• Rnd 54: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 4 times (32sts)
• Rnd 55: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 4 times (28sts)
• Rnd 56: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 4 times (24sts)
• Rnd 57: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 4 times (20sts)
• Rnd 58: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 4 times (16sts)
• Rnd 59: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times (12sts)
• Sl st, fasten off, leave a tail long enough to sew up the hole.

>Design Tip: When closing your hole, thread your tapestry needle with your yarn tail and work through only the front loops to close up the hole. Once closed tie off and weave in the remaining tail.

Hands

Using Color (B)

Make 2

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times (14sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around (14sts for 2 rounds)
• Rnd 6: Bo, sc in the next 13sts (14sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts] 2 times (12sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts] 2 times (10sts)

Begin to stuff your piece, but not too much. It should add some shape but still be kind of flat. Stuff as you go.

• Rnd 9: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 2 times (8sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts (9sts)
• Rnds 11-20: Sc in each st around (9sts for 10 rounds)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked.
• Press the top edges together, thumb facing to the side, and sc across (5sts)
• Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the arm to the body.

Legs

Using Color (C)

Make 2

• Ch5

>Design Note: In the next row you will work consecutively down each side of the chain.

• Rnd 1: In the back bar of the chain: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this as your first st), sc in the next 2sts, 3sc in the last st (this finishes of one side of the chain and completes the first st on the other side), sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the last st (10sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times (13sts)
• Rnd 3: [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts, [2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st (17sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc2tog, sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st (15sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 3sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog (11sts)

After the next couple rows or so begin stuffing and shaping your leg. Continue to do so as you go.

• Rnds 6-20: Sc in each st around (11sts for 15 rounds)
• Press the top edges together, feet facing forward, and sc across (5sts)
• Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the leg to the body.

Eyes

Using Color (D)

Make 2

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Sl st, fasten off. Leave a tail for sewing the eye to the head. Weave in the starting tail.

Pupil

Using Color (E)

Make 2

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Sl st, fasten off. Leave a tail for sewing the pupil to the rest of the eye. Weave in the starting tail.

Assembly

I will give you some general tips and tricks for placement and assembly but ultimately it’s up to you decide what placement you like best. My personal opinion is that it’ll be easiest if you start out by pinning your pieces in place before stitching anything on.

Eye Placement: I placed my eyes approximately 11 rows up, starting my counting at the waist where the yellow section starts and approximately 25 rows back from the tip of the nose. I stitched on the white part and then the black part (see pictures for placement). It helped to look at the face straight on and from the top of the head down when trying to determine symmetrical eye placement.

Arm Placement: My eyes are placed approximately three rows down in Color (A), sewn at a slight diagonal with the thumb facing up, the top of the diagonal slant about mid line with the eye.

Leg Placement: I placed my legs on the center bottom approximately three rows from the center in either direction. Make sure that the feet part are facing forward.

Mouth Placement: Using Color (E): My mouth is hand stitched on using a running stitch. The straightest part of the mouth is between row 3 and 4 of the yellow head portion, with counting starting at the color change from the body to the head. The mouth curves upward on either side some with wide V shapes stitched about mid line and the back portion of the eye (see pictures if needed). I found it easiest to place pins as an outline for where I wanted to stitch the mouth and then stitch following this, removing the pins as I went. It helped to look at the face straight on when determining placement.

Eyebrows: Using Color (E): As with the mouth I hand stitched the eyebrows using a running stitch. I also found it beneficial to map out where I wanted the eyebrows to be with pins prior to stitching and the removing them as I went along.

Lantern

The lantern is made in several pieces that are then stitched together.

Lantern Body

Using Color (F)

Make 1

• Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
• Rnd 2: 3sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, [3sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next st (20sts)
• Rnd 4: In blo sc in each st around (20sts)
• Rnds 5-10: Sc in each st around (20sts for 6 rounds)

Stuff enough to add shape, but not to much to where it is bulging. Remember Mr. Drippy’s lantern is square.

Switch to Color (G)

• Rnd 11: Sc in each st around (20sts)
• Rnd 12: In blo: [sc in the next 2sts, sc3tog] 4 times (12sts)
• Rnd 13: [Sc3tog] 4 times (4sts)
• Fasten off. Leave a tail for sewing the hole closed.

>Design Tip: When closing your hole, thread your tapestry needle with your yarn tail and work through only the front loops to close up the hole. Once closed tie off and weave in the remaining tail.

Top of the Lantern

Using Color (G)

Make 4

• Ch2
• Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (2sts)
• Row 2: Turn, ch1, [2sc in the next st] 2 times (4sts)
• Row 3: Turn, ch1, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st (6sts)
• Row 3: Turn, ch1, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in the starting tail.

Assembly for the Top of the Lantern

Long tails were left at the end of each of the triangles. You will use these to stitch together your entire lantern. If at any point you run out of yarn simply cut a new strand from your skein. Thread one of the yarn tails and use it to whip stitch the edges of the triangles together. For me this took using two of the four yarn tails.

Adding Lines to the Corners

Using Color (G)

On the body of the lantern, you will be working in the front loops of Rnd 12. Identify which stitches are the corner stitches in this round. (It may help to note that there are 4sts between each corner st.) Leaving a 5-6 inch (13-15 cm) starting tail, sl st into one of the corner front loops, inserting hook from the bottom up, ch 6 (working up the side of the lantern), sl st into front loop of Rnd 4 at the top of the lantern, fasten off leaving a 5-6 inch (13-15 cm) tail. Repeat for the remaining three corners. (See photo below on the left)

You are instructed to leave both a starting and ending tail when making the lines on the lantern because I found that you can then use these tails to keep your lines straighter simply by weaving them into the corresponding top or bottom of the lantern. (See photo above on the right)

>Design Note: Alternatively to doing the lines like this, I tried, among other things, surface stitching the lines. It was a struggle in this situation to keep them even and straight, but is an option if you’d like to try.

I used one of the remaining tails from the lantern top to attach the lantern body and top together (weave tail in to the desired location to begin stitching). Simply line up the lantern body in the center of the top and whip stitch the pieces together near Rnd 4 of the lantern body (where the front loops are). (See photo above on the left)

I used the remaining tail to form the loop on the top of the lantern (once again, weave tail in to the desired location to begin stitching). I placed the tip of my finger on the top center, looped the yarn over it and then continued to weave in my end. When I removed my finger I had secured a small loop to use later for attaching the lantern to the ring in Mr. Drippy’s nose.

Base of the Lantern

Using Color (G)

On the body of the lantern, make a standing sc in any of the front loops of Rnd 12. Sc in each st around, putting 2sc in each of the corner sts. Note that the corners already have a stitch in them from making the chained lines. I found that it worked best to put one sc into the same st as the chained lined then reached over the chain so as to turn the corner in a way and worked another sc into that same st.

Attaching the Lantern to the Nose

It’s now time to create the ring that will attach the lantern to the nose. This is done by creating a metal jump ring (or using a purchased thick gauged one). I used 12 gauge copper wire to make mine, looping it around a sharper to achieve the round shape. You should likely be able to form it with your hands for the most part, but pliers can help if needed. Be careful when working with wire. If you don’t wear glasses then I recommend wearing safety glasses because bits of wire has a tendency to fly off in random directions at times when cutting and wire in the eyes hurts.

The ring is placed in the nose between round 4 and 5. Once the ring is inserted, loop it through the lantern and close the ring. I then turned the ring to bury the closed portion into the head. Cut a length of Color (H), thread it, and anchor it into the head, bringing your needle out right near one side of the ring. With the needle still attached, loop the yarn around the metal ring in close tight loops. When you get to where the lantern is in the way of your stitching put your needle (still attached to the yarn) through the lantern loop and this should make it so you can move the lantern and continue to wrap the metal without the lantern obstructing the way. Once you get to the other side anchor and secure your yarn back into the head.

>Design Note: Alternatively to using the wire ring you could just use the yarn and stitch the lantern to the nose with several whip stitches.

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Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Cursed Mr. Drippy 2. Crochet Stitch 3. Crochet Puppy Dog

Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!

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Copyright and Use Policy

**Because this is fan art of a copyrighted character I cannot give you permission to sell products you’ve made using my pattern. It is for personal use only. You are welcome to share my photos and patterns on social media as long as you do so by using only 1-2 pictures and provide a link directly to my blog post for the pattern. A printable PDF option will NEVER be made available. You may not copy, republish, sell, distribute, translate without permission, or claim my photos, tutorials, or patterns as your own in any way. ** Thank you!