I’m so excited to introduce you to Mr. Crochet Teddy Bear! Toby and Tom are so excited to be the newest pattern on the blog! When it comes to making them they are special teddy bears because they are nearly seamless in their making! All the limbs and tail are made and then joined as you go, with only the nose, muzzle, ears, and then any desired embellishments needing to be stitched on.
Mr. Crochet Teddy Bear is a project designed by me and sponsored by Fairfieldworld, the maker of Poly-fil, the stuffing that I used for this project and for all of my amigurumi creations!
When making your bear you can choose from a variety of options. Will you make a solid-colored bear or have him wearing clothes? Will he have shoes on? Is he wearing pants? Does he have a shirt and is it striped or solid? Seriously every bear you make can be absolutely the same or entirely different. Perfect for customization!
Whatever you decide, the final results leave you with a larger, snuggly-sized teddy bear that stands approximately 18 inches (46 cm) tall from the bottom of the foot to the tip of the ear. I’ll tell you now that you’re going to want to make more than one to share, gift, sell, and enjoy! Happy Crocheting!
Read on to learn more about my inspiration and yarn choice for the Mr. Crochet Teddy Bear or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.
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Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. This project is sponsored by Fairfieldworld but the project, thoughts, and opinions are my own. Please see the disclosure page if you would like further details.
The Inspiration
As stated above, this project is designed by me and sponsored by Fairfieldworld. One of the reasons that I love Fairfieldworld beyond the fact that I use and enjoy many of their products is that I love how they encourage and support makers to “Make for Good” with Fairfield products being #attheheartofyourproject.
They encourage individuals to make homemade and handmade crafts, quilts, crochet, and other projects in their spare time to then donate them to others in need. The intended purpose being to spread good works, friendship, comfort, support, and love in our communities and around the world.
I feel that this coordinates very well with my own personal motto that life is meant to be loved, kindness shared, and creativity to abound. My crochet friend, there is so much good that can be done with our craft. I hope that you find a way to use this pattern and others that you find on the blog to spread kindness in the lives of those around you, both known and unknown to you, as you make for good. Happy Crocheting!
The Yarn
Making Mr. Crochet Teddy Bear I used Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. It is an acrylic, worsted weight, size 4 yarn that is quite inexpensive, is typically available both in stores and online, and comes in a variety of colors.
I chose this yarn because I truly believe that making for others doesn’t have to be expensive so that everyone can participate, and to show that using inexpensive acrylic yarns can still result in adorable, giveable items. That said, feel free to use up any worsted weight yarn that you may have in your stash or to buy the yarn that you like to work with most.
Do note that if making a solid colored bear that two skeins of the main color will be needed to complete the bear.
Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making Mr. Crochet Teddy Bear but note that due to variations among brands that the finished size of your bear may vary slightly.
Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.
If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine.
Making Mr. Crochet Teddy Bear with different-sized yarns has not been tested, but should also likely work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.
As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations to share!
The Pattern
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Scissors
- Poly-fil
- Tapestry needle
- Pins
- Safety eyes, brown, 15 mm
- Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
- Bear in Pants and Shirt
- Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g): Color (A) Buff, used approx. 182 yds/166 m, Color (B) Windsor Blue, used approx. 132 yds/121 m, Color (C) Soft White, used approx. 48 yds/44 m, Color (D) Cornmeal, used approx. 35 yds/32 m, Color (E) Aran, used approx. 15 yds/14 m, Color (F) Coffee, used approx. 5 yds/4.5 m
- Plain Colored Bear
- Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 96% Acrylic, 4% Other Fibers, 260 yds/238 m, 5 oz/141 g): Color (A, B, C, & D) Buff Fleck, used approx. 375 yds/343 m (2 skeins)
- Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g): Color (E) Aran, used approx. 15 yds/14 m, Color (F) Coffee, used approx. 5 yds/4.5 m
Gauge
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the muzzle measure approximately 2.25 inches (5.7 cm) in diameter.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Mr. Crochet Teddy Bear measures approximately 18.5 inches (47 cm) tall from the bottom of the feet to the tip of the ear.
Design Notes
- The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
- The pattern is written in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
- At the end of each round, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
- Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
- It will be noted in the pattern when fastening off if a long tail is needed for later stitching. If not noted then a shorter tail can be made.
- Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern. To help eliminate the stair-step/jogging that occurs when changing colors a sl st can be used to replace the first st of the round (it counts as the first st and should be worked into in the following round).
- Caution! If using safety eyes take into consideration who will be using the item. The use of safety eyes is not recommended for children under the age of three or for those prone to putting things in their mouths as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand-embroidered eyes are a great alternative!
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
- BLO – back loop only
- ch – Chain
- FLO – front loop only
- Rnd(s) – Round(s)
- sc – Single crochet
- sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (use an invisible decrease unless otherwise noted)
- sl st – Slip stitch
- st(s) – Stitch(s)
- [ ] / ( ) – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
- magic circle/adjustable ring
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Let’s Make Mr. Crochet Teddy Bear!
Muzzle
Make 1
Using Color (E)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
- Rnds 7-10: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 4 Rnds)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the muzzle to the head.
- Set aside for later.
Nose
Make 1
Using Color (F)
- Ch 6
- Rnd 1: In the back bar of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st as the starting st), sc in the next 3ch, 3sc in the next ch (these three sc finish one side, round the corner, and start the first st on the other side of the ch), Working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 4ch. (12sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st. (18sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the nose to the muzzle and embroidering the mouth.
- Set aside for later.
Tail
Make 1
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
- Rnds 5-7: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 3 Rnds)
- Rnd 8: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next st. (18sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the tail continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 10: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
- Fasten off and set aside for later.
Ears
Make 2
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnds 6-10: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 5 Rnds)
- Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the ear to the head.
- Set aside for later.
Arms and Shirt Sleeves
>Design Note: The arms and shirt sleeves are made as one piece starting with the hands and working up the arm. If making a solid colored bear the same color will be used throughout.
Arms
Make 2
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnds 6-9: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 4 Rnds)
- Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next st. (18sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the hand portion. Stuff the arm portion a bit less so that it can be flattened some, allowing the arm to lie flatter against the body when attached.
- Rnds 13-34: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 22 Rnds)
Making the Shirt Sleeves
The shirt sleeves are written in stripes. If making a solid colored bear omit the color changes completely. If making a solid colored shirt, make the initial color change in Rnd 33 and keep the same color for the remainder of the sleeve.
>Design Tip: Remember when working stripes that making the first stitch in the new color a sl st (instead of a sc) will help to reduce the look of jogging/stair steps that occur when crocheting stripes in the round. This sl st counts as a stitch.
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 35: If making a shirt (striped or solid) work this Rnd in the FLO. If making a solid colored bear work through both loops of the st: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
- Rnds 36-37: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
Switch to Color (D)
- Rnds 38-40: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnds 41-43: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
Switch to Color (D)
- Rnd 44: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
>Design Option: Later on in the pattern, the arms will be attached seamlessly to the body. An alternate option will also be given, when making the body, to be able to attach the arms separately. If desiring to attach them separately, at this point fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching, otherwise continue with the pattern as directed preparing for a seamless join.
- Fasten off. Mark the 5th and 16th st to be used later when joining the arms to the body.
- Set aside for later.
Feet and Legs/Pants
Make 2
Using Color (A)
>Design Option: Turn the feet into “shoes” by substituting the yarn color in Rnds 1-19 with the desired shoe color.
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnds 8-13: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 6 Rnds)
- Rnd 14: Sc in the next 14sts, [sc2tog] 7 times, sc in the next 14sts. (35sts)
- Rnd 15: Sc in the next 12sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 14sts. (31sts)
- Rnd 16: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog. (28sts)
- Rnd 17: Sc in the next 12sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 12sts. (26sts)
- Rnd 18: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 12sts. (25sts)
- Rnd 19: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts. (24sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the foot and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
If making pants, switch to Color (B), otherwise continue with Color (A) for a solid colored bear.
- Rnd 20: If making pants, work in the FLO, otherwise continue working in both loops: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
- Rnds 21-33: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 13 Rnds)
The first and second legs are worked differently. See the instructions and notes below for each leg.
- Rnd 34, First Leg Only: Sc in each st around. (24sts) Fasten off. Mark the 10th st to be used later when joining the legs together. The starting stitch marker can be removed. Set the leg aside for later.
>Design Note for the First Leg: The stitch marked with the stitch marker should be on the center-right when the foot is facing towards you. If it doesn’t seem centered, move the stitch marker to the center and use this st as the point of join noted in Rnd 35.
- Rnd 34, Second Leg Only: Sc in the next 22sts, leave the remaining 2sts unworked, ch 1. (22sts and 1 ch) Mark the 23rd st for later reference when joining the legs together. The starting stitch marker can be removed.
>Design Note for the Second Leg: Leaving the last two sts unworked on the second leg should position the piece so the working loop is on the center-left when the foot is facing towards you, in preparation for joining the legs together. Add or remove sts if needed to obtain this position. If adjustments are made, mark the very next unworked stitch for later joining (instead of the 23rd stitch) and use this st as the point of join noted in Rnd 35.
Joining the Legs Together
>Design Note: A sc join is made by inserting the hook (with the working loop on the hook) into the piece to be joined to (in the designated stitch) from the right side of the work to the wrong side of the work, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.
- Rnd 35: Join with a sc onto the first (right) leg in the 10th st (marked previously with a stitch marker), mark this st as the new starting st of the round, sc in the next 23sts on the first (right) leg, in the back bar of the chain: sc in the next ch, join back onto the second (left) leg with a sc in the 23rd st (marked with a stitch marker which can then be removed), sc in the next 23sts, sc in the front of the ch. (50sts)
>Design Note: From this point on the Bear is worked as one piece, joining pieces seamlessly as the pattern progresses. To help with identifying what is happening in the pattern additional headings will follow but only fasten off if the directions say to do so.
Continue With Making the Legs & Body/Pants
- Rnd 36: Sc in each st around. (50sts)
- Rnd 37: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times. (55sts)
- Rnd 38: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times, sc in the next 5sts. (60sts)
- Rnd 39: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
- Rnd 40: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times. (65sts)
>Design Note: When joining pieces together there is often a small hole and/or looser gaps in the stitches at the point(s) where the join is made. Now would be a great time, using a separate length of yarn in the coordinating color and a tapestry needle, to stitch up any of these small spaces between the legs.
- Rnd 41: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times, sc in the next 6sts. (70sts)
- Rnds 42-43: Sc in each st around. (70sts for 2 Rnds)
Adding the Tail Seamlessly to the Body
In the next two rounds, the tail is added seamlessly to the body.
- Rnd 44: Sc in the next 33sts, now join the tail to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into any st on the tail from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the tail and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 33sts. (70sts)
- Rnd 45: Sc in the next 33sts, now join the tail to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next st on the tail closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the tail and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 33sts. (70sts)
Continue With Making the Body/Pants
- Rnds 46-52: Sc in each st around. (70sts for 7 Rnds)
- Rnd 53: Sc in the next 37sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (37sts)
>Design Note for Rnd 53: The partial completion of the Rnd 53 positions the work so that the color changes in the striped shirt (if making) will take place on the back of the piece rather than the front. The same instructions should be followed if making a solid colored bear or a solid colored shirt.
Making the Body/Shirt
>Design Note: The pattern instructions are written for a striped shirt. If a solid colored bear or shirt is being made, follow the same instructions, but omit the color changes during this portion of the pattern, resuming the applicable color changes at Rnd 81 when making the neck and head for the bear with a solid shirt.
>Design Tip: Remember when working stripes that if the first stitch in the new color is substituted with a sl st instead of a sc that it will help to reduce the look of the jogging/stair steps that occur when crocheting stripes in the round. It counts as a stitch and should be worked into in the following round with a regular stitch as directed in the pattern.
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 54: Work in the BLO if making a shirt and both loops if making a solid colored bear: Sc in each st around. (70sts) Mark the first st as the new starting st.
- Rnds 55-56: Sc in each st around. (70sts for 2 Rnds)
Switch to Color (D)
- Rnds 57-59: Sc in each st around. (70sts for 3 Rnds)
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnds 60-61: Sc in each st around. (70sts for 2 Rnds)
- Rnd 62: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 6 times, sc in the next 4sts. (63sts)
Switch to Color (D)
- Rnds 63-65: Sc in each st around. (63sts for 3 Rnds)
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnds 66-68: Sc in each st around. (63sts for 3 Rnds)
Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
Switch to Color (D)
- Rnd 69: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 7 times. (56sts)
- Rnds 70-71: Sc in each st around. (56ts for 2 Rnds)
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 72: Sc in each st around. (56sts)
- Rnd 73: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times, sc in the next 3sts. (49sts)
- Rnd 74: Sc in each st around. (49sts)
Switch to Color (D)
- Rnd 75: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 7 times. (42sts)
Joining the Arms to the Body
The arms are added seamlessly in the next two Rnds. Put a stitch marker in the working loop so it won’t unravel and take a moment to prepare for joining the arms to the body.
>Design Option: Prefer not to join the arms seamlessly to the body, but rather stitch them on separately by hand? For Rnds 76-78: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 3 Rnds) and then continue on with the pattern as written (starting at Rnd 79), attaching the arms to the sides of the body at about Rnds 76-77 once the body and head are completed. If making a striped shirt, remember to switch colors when making Rnd 78 to keep the stripes consistent.
Preparation for Joining the Arms to the Body
- On the body: Mark the 13th, 18th, 34th, and 39th stitch of Rnd 75 (the teal stitch markers in the picture).
- Looking at the body there are 4sts between each stitch marker (on either side of the body). These four stitches plus the two with the stitch markers are the 6sts that will be used to join the arms to the body.
- Looking at the arms that were made earlier and marked with the stitch markers, there are 6sts between the stitch markers on one side and 10sts on the other side. The side with 6sts will be the ones closest to the body and these 6sts are the ones used when joining the arm and body together during the first round of joining. Note that the stitch markers on either side of these 6sts (in the above image they are purple) will be used for reference during the second round of joining the arms to the body in Rnd 77.
- Pairing the arm and body stitches for joining. Using the stitch markers from the body, link together the noted 1st and 6th stitch of the arm to be joined so that the arm and body are connected (the teal stitch markers in the above image).
- Rnd 76: (Broken down into several steps below. Once the sts are joined in the Rnd, those stitch markers can be removed.)
- On the body: Inserting the hook back into the working loop, sc in the next 12sts,
- Now join the arm to the body (using the sts held together with the stitch marker): With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the arm from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 5sts (the final st being those held together with a stitch marker),
- On the body: Sc in the next 15sts,
- Now join the arm to the body (using the sts held together with the stitch marker): With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the arm from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 5sts (the final st being those held together with a stitch marker),
- On the body: Sc in the next 3sts. (42sts)
Preparation for Rnd 77
- On the body: Mark the 13th, 19th, 34th, and 40th stitch of Rnd 76 (the teal stitch markers in the image).
- Rnd 77: (Broken down into several steps below. All stitch markers, except for the one noting the starting stitch, can be removed once reached in the pattern.)
- On the body: Sc in the next 12sts,
- On just the arm (looking at the 10sts identified above during Preparation for Joining): [Sc2tog] 2 times (the first st is marked with a stitch marker),
- Now join the arm to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next st on the arm closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body (marked with a stitch marker) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 5sts,
- On just the arm: Sc2tog (the last st is marked with a stitch marker),
- On the body: Sc in the next 15sts (the first st is marked with a st marker),
- On just the arm: Sc2tog (the first st is marked with a stitch marker),
- Now join the other arm to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next st on the arm closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body (marked with a stitch marker) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 5sts,
- On just the arm: [Sc2tog] 2 times (the last st is marked with a stitch marker),
- On the body: Sc in the next 3sts (the first st is marked with a stitch marker). (48sts total)
Continuing with the Body/Shirt
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 78: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (42sts)
- Rnd 79: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
- Rnd 80: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (30sts)
Making the Neck and the Head
Switch to Color (A)
>Design Note: Make sure to firmly stuff the shoulder area and neck so that it isn’t too wobbly.
- Rnd 81: Working in the BLO if making a shirt and through both loops if making a solid colored bear: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts) (>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in the BLO.)
- Rnds 82-84: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 3 Rnds)
- Rnd 85: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 86: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
- Rnd 87: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnd 88: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)
- Rnd 89: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
- Rnd 90: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 4sts. (60sts)
- Rnd 91: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
- Rnd 92: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 5sts. (72sts)
- Rnd 93: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (78sts)
- Rnd 94: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 6sts. (84sts)
- Rnd 95-109: Sc in each st around. (84sts for 15 Rnds)
- Rnd 110: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 6sts. (78sts)
- Rnd 111: [Sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (72sts)
- Rnd 112: Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 5sts. (66sts)
- Rnd 113: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (60sts)
- Rnd 114: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 4sts. (54sts)
Insert the safety eyes. The suggested placement is centered on the face between Rnds 105 and 106, approximately 12sts apart. (>Design Tip: After placing the eyes, without the backs yet on, hold the muzzle up to the face to ensure that the desired look and placement are being achieved. Adjust as desired and then add the backs. )
>Design Note: The muzzle can be stitched on at this point too, or wait until the head is completed and added afterward. If stitching now, see the “Assembly” section below for suggested placement.
Firmly stuff and shape the head and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 115: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
- Rnd 116: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (42sts)
- Rnd 117: Sc in each st around. (42sts)
- Rnd 118: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
- Rnd 119: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
- Rnd 120: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (30sts)
- Rnd 121: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 122: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next st. (18sts)
- Rnd 123: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 124: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.
Assembly
Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Mr. Crochet Teddy Bear and stitch them securely into place. Remember to add additional stuffing before closing to fill in the gaps as appropriate.
General placement and stitching suggestions:
- Stitch the nose to the muzzle: Using a tapestry needle stitch the nose to the muzzle. Suggested placement is centered on the muzzle with the top resting at about Rnd 6 and the bottom resting at about Rnd 1. Once the nose is stitched all the way around, stitch the line coming down from the nose to between Rnd 5 and 6, and then the smaller mouth lines out from that bottom point diagonally to the left and the right each being the length of one round (longer if desired). Add any other desired embroidery to the muzzle and secure the end.
- Stitch the muzzle to the head: Add stuffing to the muzzle. Using a tapestry needle, stitch the muzzle to the head with the top centered just under the eyes at about Rnd 104 with the bottom being at approximately Rnd 90. Remember to add additional stuffing and shape right before closing the hole.
- Stitch the ears to the head: Flatten the sides of the ears against each other which will cause them to naturally curve in. Pin them to the top of the head approximately 5 Rnds out from the center on either side. Stitch them to the head using a tapestry needle.
- Add the eyebrows: Using Color (F) and a tapestry needle stitch the eyebrows. Suggested stitching placement is to start two Rnds above the center of the eye and slant down two Rnds to the left or right (depending on which eye is being stitched) with the end of the eyebrow being approximately 1.5 sts away from the side of the eye.
Looking for more great patterns?
These may be of interest! 1. Large Sleepy Time Crochet Gnome 2. Crochet Squirrel 3. Classic Crochet Teddy Bear
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This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items personally produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!
I am sick of trying to get the mr teddy bear pattern
The pattern is available to view for free from the website or as an inexpensive, ad-free PDF on Ravelry or Etsy. Is there something that I can help you with?