Mini Crochet Stockings

I’m excited to share with you six variations of the Mini Crochet Stockings that you can make using the same pattern and two colors! All you have to do is change colors when noted.

And really these six variations are actually twelve because all you have to do is swap the two colors to make a different look. Adding a third color into the mix adds even more possibilities! You get the idea. Change colors to your heart’s content and consider adding buttons, beads, ribbon, and trim for even more fun. So many options to love with one simple pattern.

Oh! I want to add that this makes a great use of scrap yarn too, especially if you aren’t too particular in the colors that you want to make your stockings.

And if you are looking for more options to use up some of your scrap yarn the Keychain Chapstick Holder may also be of interest. Perhaps even go all crazy using up that scrap yarn a make a Keychain Chapstick Holder inside a stocking as a fun little gift!

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The Inspiration

Really the inspiration behind the Mini Crochet Stockings design is the fact that Christmas is coming! With the spirit of giving as I guide, I wanted a fun little project that could be used for a variety of purposes, most notably a fun way to add a handmade touch to giving this holiday season. I think the Mini Crochet Stockings fit the bill! Simple Gifts Made for Sharing!

How Will You Use Your Stockings?

Not only are the variations of making the stockings practically limitless, so are their uses! A few of the ideas that I came up with were to:

• string them together to create a garland,
• use them as an advent calendar,
• use them as an ornament,
• turn them into keychains,
• use them to decorate a gift bag,
• fill them with small toys for kids (such as Hot Wheels cars or other miniature toys)
• make a mini nail kit (if packaged well, you can put a small set of clippers, an emery board, and a bottle of nail polish),
• fill it with small chocolates or other candy favorites,
• add jewelry or jewelry-making supplies,
• include a simple personalized note,
• or add a bit of money.

Really there are so many ways to use the stocking as a little way to spread some holiday cheer. And I won’t say a word if you decide to make one for yourself for Santa to bring filled with that specialty crochet hook and fun stitch markers that you’ve been eyeing.

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These Patterns May Also Be of Interest!

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The Yarn

For the Mini Crochet Stockings, I chose to use Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft. It’s an acrylic, slightly thinner worsted-weight yarn and is often easily accessible in-store or online. I love that it has a slight sheen to it and as the name implies is quite soft.

Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Mini Crochet Stockings but note that due to variations among brands that the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching. If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this should work fine too.

Other yarn weights have not been tested, but should also likely work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.

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The Mini Crochet Stockings Patterns

Difficulty

Beginner to Advanced Beginner

>Design Note: All of the stockings are made with sc. Variations 2-5 include an occasional color change. Variation 6 involves stripes and may be trickier but definitely not impossible for a determined beginner.

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size G/6 (4.0 mm) 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Tapestry Needle
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Dark Sage, Color (B) White, Amount of each color used varies per stocking based on design choice. Stocking in solid color uses approx. 39 yds/36 m
• The red shown in some of the pictures, but not noted in the patterns is Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g) in Harvest Red

Gauge

Exact gauge is not essential to this design. That said, to ensure a stocking similar in size, using hook size G/6 (4.0 mm) the first 3 rounds of the pattern measure 1-3/8 inches (3.5 cm) in diameter, unblocked.

Finished Measurements

At its widest, the stocking measures 3 inches (7 cm) wide by 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) tall not including the hanging tab. For further, and perhaps easier reference, this is enough space for two regular tubes of lipstick with enough space in the toe of the stocking to place something else (perhaps a small chocolate).

Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. The starting point will change once in the pattern and will be noted.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern. 

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• ch – chain
• magic circle/adjustable ring
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – rows
• sc – single crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• standing sc
• st(s) – stitch(s)

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Let’s Make Our Mini Crochet Stockings!

>Design Tip: The Mini Crochet Stocking pattern includes six variations on one stocking. It may be helpful to work through the solid variation first to become familiar with the design and then continue with the other options.

>Design Note: Progress pictures are shown under Variation 1. Refer to them as needed for the other stocking variations. 

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Variation 1: Solid

Use the color of choice

Starting at the toe of the stocking and working to the top.

• Rnd 1: 8sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (8sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 8sc in 2nd chain from hook. (8sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (16sts)

>Design Tip: Before going too far, weave in the starting tail. Continue to weave in the tails, as appropriate, while the pattern progresses as they will be difficult to reach later.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnds 4-13: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 10 Rnds)

The heel of the stocking is now created by working in turned rows.

• Row 14: Sc in the next 12sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (12sts)
• Rows 15-19: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across. (12sts for 5 Rows)

There are a couple of options to form the heel. I’m going to give you both options. I love to teach variable techniques to accomplish things so that you can continually improve in your work! Choose the technique that you like best.

• Option 1: Do NOT fasten off, fold the heel together (away from the toe) with right sides touching and sts lined up, ch1 to be able to reach over to the right side of the work, sc across, joining the top edges of Row 19 together, creating a seam. (6sts) Fasten off, weave in the tail, and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper (see image below).
• Option 2: Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. With the right sides of the heel folded together (away from the toe) use the tapestry needle to whip stitch the heel together along the outer edge (essentially fold Row 19 in half with the right sides touching, be sure to line up the stitches and whip stitch this row to itself). Weave in the tail and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.

>Design Note: Rnd 20 is again worked in rounds. In this Rnd a nice base is created to work on by crocheting over the rougher edges of the heel (the sides of the rows, thus not the regular nice-looking V stitches) and into the stitches that were skipped in Rnd 14.

• Rnd 20: With the heel facing you, join with a new strand to the left-center back creating a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st). Put 6sts (total) along the left side edges of the heel (reaching the 12 skipped sts from Rnd 14 at the toe of the stocking), sc in each of the 12sts along the toe, sc 6 more sts along the right side edges of the heel. (24sts)
• Rnds 21-33: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 13 Rnds)
• Rnd 34: To reach the back center: Sc in the next 2sts, sl st in the next st (This should be the center back. Make adjustments by adding or removing sts if needed. The final st should be a sl st.), leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

Hanging Loop

>Design Option: The following instructions make a hanging loop. If a hanging loop is not wanted then fasten off and weave in the tail. If it’s wanted, continue. To make the loop longer add more chains before making the final sl st.

• Ch10, sl st back into the same st. Fasten off and weave in the tail.

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Variation 2: Solid with a Colored Band

Use Color (A) – Dark Sage and Color (B) – White OR chosen color combination

Starting at the toe of the stocking and working to the top.

Using Color (A) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 1: 8sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (8sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 8sc in 2nd chain from hook. (8sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (16sts)

>Design Tip: Before going too far, weave in the starting tail. Continue to weave in the tails, as appropriate, while the pattern progresses as they will be difficult to reach later.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnds 4-13: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 10 Rnds)

>Design Note: The heel of the stocking will now be created by working in turned rows.

• Row 14: Sc in the next 12sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (12sts)
• Rows 15-19: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across. (12sts for 5 Rows)

There are a couple of options to form the heel. I’m going to give you both options. I love to teach variable techniques to accomplish things so that you can continually improve in your work! Choose the technique that you like best.

• Option 1: Do NOT fasten off, fold the heel together (away from the toe) with right sides touching and sts lined up, ch1 to be able to reach over to the right side of the work, sc across, joining the top edges of Row 19 together, creating a seam. (6sts) Fasten off, weave in the tail, and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.
• Option 2: Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. With the right sides of the heel folded together (away from the toe) use the tapestry needle to whip stitch the heel together along the outer edge (essentially fold Row 19 in half with the right sides touching, be sure to line up the stitches and whip stitch this row to itself). Weave in the tail and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.

>Design Note: Rnd 20 is again worked in rounds. In this Rnd a nice base is created to work on by crocheting over the rougher edges of the heel (the sides of the rows, thus not the regular nice-looking V stitches) and into the stitches that were skipped in Rnd 14.

• Rnd 20: With the heel facing you, join with a new strand to the left-center back creating a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st). Put 6sts (total) along the left side edges of the heel (reaching the 12 skipped sts from Rnd 14 at the toe of the stocking), sc in each of the 12sts along the toe, sc 6 more sts along the right side edges of the heel. (24sts)
• Rnds 21-30: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 10 Rnds)

Switch to Color (B) – White

• Rnd 31: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnds 32-33: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 34: To reach the back center: Sc in the next 2sts, sl st in the next st (This should be the center back. Make adjustments by adding or removing sts if needed. The final st should be a sl st.), leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

Hanging Loop

>Design Option: The following instructions make a hanging loop. If a hanging loop is not wanted then fasten off and weave in the tail. If it’s wanted, continue. To make the loop longer add more chains before making the final sl st.

• Ch10, sl st back into the same st. Fasten off and weave in the tail.

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Variation 3: Solid with a Different Colored Heel

Use Color (A) – Dark Sage and Color (B) – White OR chosen color combination

Starting at the toe of the stocking and working to the top.

Using Color (A) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 1: 8sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (8sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 8sc in 2nd chain from hook. (8sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (16sts)

>Design Tip: Before going too far, weave in the starting tail. Continue to weave in the tails, as appropriate, while the pattern progresses as they will be difficult to reach later.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnds 4-13: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 10 Rnds)

Switch to Color (B) – White

>Design Note: The heel of the stocking will now be created by working in turned rows.

• Row 14: Sc in the next 12sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (12sts)
• Rows 15-19: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across. (12sts for 5 Rows)

There are a couple of options to form the heel. I’m going to give you both options. I love to teach variable techniques to accomplish things so that you can continually improve in your work! Choose the technique that you like best.

• Option 1: Do NOT fasten off, fold the heel together (away from the toe) with right sides touching and sts lined up, ch1 to be able to reach over to the right side of the work, sc across, joining the top edges of Row 19 together, creating a seam. (6sts) Fasten off, weave in the tail, and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.
• Option 2: Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. With the right sides of the heel folded together (away from the toe) use the tapestry needle to whip stitch the heel together along the outer edge (essentially fold Row 19 in half with the right sides touching, be sure to line up the stitches and whip stitch this row to itself). Weave in the tail and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.

>Design Note: Rnd 20 is again worked in rounds. In this Rnd a nice base is created to work on by crocheting over the rougher edges of the heel (the sides of the rows, thus not the regular nice-looking V stitches) and into the stitches that were skipped in Rnd 14.

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 20: With the heel facing you, join with a new strand to the left-center back creating a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st). Put 6sts (total) along the left side edges of the heel (reaching the 12 skipped sts from Rnd 14 at the toe of the stocking), sc in each of the 12sts along the toe, sc 6 more sts along the right side edges of the heel. (24sts)
• Rnds 21-33: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 13 Rnds)
• Rnd 34: To reach the back center: Sc in the next 2sts, sl st in the next st (This should be the center back. Make adjustments by adding or removing sts if needed. The final st should be a sl st.), leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

Hanging Loop

>Design Option: The following instructions make a hanging loop. If a hanging loop is not wanted then fasten off and weave in the tail. If it’s wanted, continue. To make the loop longer add more chains before making the final sl st.

• Ch10, sl st back into the same st. Fasten off and weave in the tail.

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Variation 4: Toe and Heel a Separate Color

Use Color (A) – Dark Sage and Color (B) – White OR chosen color combination

Starting at the toe of the stocking and working to the top.

Using Color (B) – White

• Rnd 1: 8sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (8sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 8sc in 2nd chain from hook. (8sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (16sts)

>Design Tip: Before going too far, weave in the starting tail. Continue to weave in the tails, as appropriate, while the pattern progresses as they will be difficult to reach later.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 4 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 8: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnds 9-13: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 5 Rnds)

>Design Note: The heel of the stocking will now be created by working in turned rows.

Switch to Color (B) – White

• Row 14: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 11sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (12sts)
• Rows 15-19: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across. (12sts for 5 Rows)

There are a couple of options to form the heel. I’m going to give you both options. I love to teach variable techniques to accomplish things so that you can continually improve in your work! Choose the technique that you like best.

• Option 1: Do NOT fasten off, fold the heel together (away from the toe) with right sides touching and sts lined up, ch1 to be able to reach over to the right side of the work, sc across, joining the top edges of Row 19 together, creating a seam. (6sts) Fasten off, weave in the tail, and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.
• Option 2: Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. With the right sides of the heel folded together (away from the toe) use the tapestry needle to whip stitch the heel together along the outer edge (essentially fold Row 19 in half with the right sides touching, be sure to line up the stitches and whip stitch this row to itself). Weave in the tail and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage

>Design Note: Rnd 20 is again worked in rounds. In this Rnd a nice base is created to work on by crocheting over the rougher edges of the heel (the sides of the rows, thus not the regular nice-looking V stitches) and into the stitches that were skipped in Rnd 14.

• Rnd 20: With the heel facing you, join with a new strand to the left-center back creating a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st). Put 6sts (total) along the left side edges of the heel (reaching the 12 skipped sts from Rnd 14 at the toe of the stocking), sc in each of the 12sts along the toe, sc 6 more sts along the right side edges of the heel. (24sts)
• Rnds 21-33: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 13 Rnds)
• Rnd 34: To reach the back center: Sc in the next 2sts, sl st in the next st (This should be the center back. Make adjustments by adding or removing sts if needed. The final st should be a sl st.), leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

Hanging Loop

>Design Option: The following instructions make a hanging loop. If a hanging loop is not wanted then fasten off and weave in the tail. If it’s wanted, continue. To make the loop longer add more chains before making the final sl st.

• Ch10, sl st back into the same st. Fasten off and weave in the tail.

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Variation 5: Toe, Heel, and Top a Separate Color

Use Color (A) – Dark Sage and Color (B) – White OR chosen color combination

Starting at the toe of the stocking and working to the top.

Using Color (B) – White

• Rnd 1: 8sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (8sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 8sc in 2nd chain from hook. (8sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (16sts)

>Design Tip: Before going too far, weave in the starting tail. Continue to weave in the tails, as appropriate, while the pattern progresses as they will be difficult to reach later.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 4 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 8: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnds 9-13: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 5 Rnds)

>Design Note: The heel of the stocking will now be created by working in turned rows.

Switch to Color (B) – White

• Row 14: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 11sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (12sts)
• Rows 15-19: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across. (12sts for 5 Rows)

There are a couple of options to form the heel. I’m going to give you both options. I love to teach variable techniques to accomplish things so that you can continually improve in your work! Choose the technique that you like best.

• Option 1: Do NOT fasten off, fold the heel together (away from the toe) with right sides touching and sts lined up, ch1 to be able to reach over to the right side of the work, sc across, joining the top edges of Row 19 together, creating a seam. (6sts) Fasten off, weave in the tail, and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.
• Option 2: Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. With the right sides of the heel folded together (away from the toe) use the tapestry needle to whip stitch the heel together along the outer edge (essentially fold Row 19 in half with the right sides touching, be sure to line up the stitches and whip stitch this row to itself). Weave in the tail and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage

>Design Note: Rnd 20 is again worked in rounds. In this Rnd a nice base is created to work on by crocheting over the rougher edges of the heel (the sides of the rows, thus not the regular nice-looking V stitches) and into the stitches that were skipped in Rnd 14.

• Rnd 20: With the heel facing you, join with a new strand to the left-center back creating a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st). Put 6sts (total) along the left side edges of the heel (reaching the 12 skipped sts from Rnd 14 at the toe of the stocking), sc in each of the 12sts along the toe, sc 6 more sts along the right side edges of the heel. (24sts)
• Rnds 21-30: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 10 Rnds)

Switch to Color (B) – White

• Rnd 31: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnds 32-33: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 34: To reach the back center: Sc in the next 2sts, sl st in the next st (This should be the center back. Make adjustments by adding or removing sts if needed. The final st should be a sl st.), leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

Hanging Loop

>Design Option: The following instructions make a hanging loop. If a hanging loop is not wanted then fasten off and weave in the tail. If it’s wanted, continue. To make the loop longer add more chains before making the final sl st.

• Ch10, sl st back into the same st. Fasten off and weave in the tail.

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Variation 6: Striped

Use Color (A) – Dark Sage and Color (B) – White OR chosen color combination

Starting at the toe of the stocking and working to the top.

Using Color (B) – White

• Rnd 1: 8sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (8sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 8sc in 2nd chain from hook. (8sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (16sts)

>Design Tip: Before going too far, weave in the starting tail. Continue to weave in the tails, as appropriate, while the pattern progresses as they will be difficult to reach later.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 4 Rnds)

>Design Note: In the next section of the design color changes are made several times while making the stripes. This can be handled in several ways:

1. The old color can be fastened off each time and the tails woven in.
2. The colors can be picked up and dropped as directed without cutting the yarn. This will leave small floats on the inside of the work. Because they are shorter they are less likely to be snagged, so probably fine.
3. The working and the nonworking yarn can be carried up the design as the pattern progresses without cutting the yarn. Once both colors are in play, this is done by twisting the yarn around each other once at the end of each round before making the first stitch. This integrates the yarn together and eliminates the loose floats. It must be done every round though, not just the rounds that call for a color change.

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 8: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout), sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (24sts)

Switch to Color (B) – White

• Rnd 10: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. (24sts)

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 12: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in each st around (24sts)

Switch to Color (B) – White

>Design Note: The heel of the stocking will now be created by working in turned rows.

• Row 14: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts, leave the remaining sts unworked (12sts)
• Rows 15-19: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across (12sts for 5 Rows)

There are a couple of options to form the heel. I’m going to give you both options. I love to teach variable techniques to accomplish things so that you can continually improve in your work! Choose the technique that you like best.

• Option 1: Do NOT fasten off, fold the heel together (away from the toe) with right sides touching and sts lined up, ch1 to be able to reach over to the right side of the work, sc across, joining the top edges of Row 19 together, creating a seam. (6sts) Fasten off, weave in the tail, and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.
• Option 2: Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. With the right sides of the heel folded together (away from the toe) use the tapestry needle to whip stitch the heel together along the outer edge (essentially fold Row 19 in half with the right sides touching, be sure to line up the stitches and whip stitch this row to itself). Weave in the tail and then push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.

>Design Note: Rnd 20 is again worked in rounds. In this Rnd a nice base is created to work on by crocheting over the rougher edges of the heel (the sides of the rows, thus not the regular nice-looking V stitches) and into the stitches that were skipped in Rnd 14.

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 20: With the heel facing you, join with a new strand to the left-center back creating a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st). Put 6sts (total) along the left side edges of the heel (reaching the 12 skipped sts from Rnd 14 at the toe of the stocking), sc in each of the 12sts along the toe, sc 6 more sts along the right side edges of the heel. (24sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in each st around. (24sts)

Switch to Color (B) – White

• Rnd 22: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in each st around. (24sts)

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 24: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in each st around. (24sts)

Switch to Color (B) – White

• Rnd 26: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in each st around. (24sts)

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 28: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in each st around. (24sts)

Switch to Color (B) – White

• Rnd 30: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 31: Sc in each st around. (24sts)

Switch to Color (A) – Dark Sage and Fasten off Color (B) – White

• Rnd 32: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 23sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 33: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
• Rnd 34: To reach the back center: Sc in the next 2sts, sl st in the next st (This should be the center back. Make adjustments by adding or removing sts if needed. The final st should be a sl st.), leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

Hanging Loop

>Design Option: The following instructions make a hanging loop. If a hanging loop is not wanted then fasten off and weave in the tail. If it’s wanted, continue. To make the loop longer add more chains before making the final sl st.

• Ch10, sl st back into the same st. Fasten off and weave in the tail.

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Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!

As always, I’d love to see your creation if you’re willing to share! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, and Instagram (tag @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!

Also, remember that the best way to always be in the loop about new patterns, techniques, tutorials, giveaways, and crafty fun is to subscribe to the newsletter! Thanks for your support!

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!

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