How to Make an Invisible Join and Invisible Finish When Working in Joined Rounds

Today I’m excited to teach you about two wonderful techniques, the Invisible Join and the Invisible Finish that will change the way you go about working in joined rounds!

These exciting tutorials will teach you super simple tricks that help make your finished projects look even more professional and beautiful by eliminating gaps left by joins and the knotty bump left by the final slip stitch on the last round. Your seams are going to look so good!

Want to know the best thing yet? This joining method not only eliminates unsightly seams, bumps, and gaps, it can be done without having to fasten off after each round!

Many tutorials that show the invisible join method will teach you that you need to fasten off after every round, thread your tapestry needle to weave in your ends a certain way, and then reattach the yarn for the next round. This may be fine for a small projects, but for large projects it becomes tedious.

The method for invisible joins that I will be sharing today will allow you to eliminate the holes and create straighter seams that are nearly invisible. The invisible finish will remove the unpleasant looking knot along the edge of your project. All this without having to remove your hook until the very last stitch! I’ll also show you how to change colors from round to round so you’ll be really ready to tackle any type of project worked in joined rounds! Your projects will look beautiful through and through!

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Don’t Forget to PIN this Tutorial for Later!

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Let’s Talk About Regular Joins

If you’re familiar with crochet and working in joined rounds you’re also very likely familiar with the phrase at the end of each round that says, “sl st to the top of the starting ch to join” and after the final round, “sl st to the top of the starting ch to join and fasten off.”

This method gets the job done, but leaves unsightly blemishes in your work resulting in holes at each of the joins and an uneven knot along the edge from the slip stitch made when fastening off the work (see arrows in the above image). Sometimes these imperfections can be manipulated to blend into a project but at other times they can be plain ugly.

For reference, here’s an example of a pattern that will leave holes and a visible slip stitch knot along the edge of the piece (like pictured above with the arrows).

• Rnd 1: In an adjustable (magic) circle: Ch 3 (counts as the first dc here and throughout), dc nine more times in the circle, sl st to the top of the ch3 to join (10sts)
• Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in the same st, 2dc in each st around, sl st to the top of the ch3 to join (20sts)
• Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2dc in the next st, [dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st] 9 times, sl st to the top of the ch3 to join, fasten off and weave in ends (30sts)

Let’s Talk About Invisible Joins!

When Should You Use The Invisible Join?

The Invisible Join technique is particularly useful and applicable to stitches taller than the single crochet (sc), so primarily the half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), and treble (tr) stitches. I will be using double crochet to demonstrate the invisible join techniques at the end of the post, but will give tips for using the other stitches as well.

A note on single crochet. While this technique is most commonly used with taller stitches it is still possible to work joined single crochet in the round. It is however more common to work single crochet stitches in a continuous round (spiral) rather than joined. Amigurumi are a great example of working sc in continuous rounds.

I personally use continuous rounds when making amigurumi, and occasionally use the invisible finish. I’ll cover amigurumi specifically and share some examples at the end of the post!

An example of a project where joined sc is used for a project in order to make the longer spiked stitch pattern line up better in each row is the Spiked Stitch Crochet Basket.

Projects That May Use the Invisible Join

Use the invisible join techniques when making hats, bags, baskets, coasters, kitchen scrubbies, face scrubbies, and essentially anything worked in joined rounds.

Let’s Talk About the Adjustable (Magic) Circle and Chains

Before jumping into joined rounds I want to talk about the adjustable (magic) circle (also referred to as an adjustable or magic ring).

Note: The adjustable circle alone calls for a full tutorial. I don’t currently have this tutorial written, but I will soon because I have several fun tips and techniques to share! It’s nearly imperative to know how to make the adjustable circle when making amigurumi and helpful for many other projects as well.

For now, we’re just going to focus on the very beginning of the adjustable circle, the part after you’ve formed the circle together and are about to add stitches onto the adjustable ring.

If making the ring for amigurumi you’ll likely be making sc stitches to work in a continuous round. In this case you’d just add the number of stitches indicated by the pattern. However, if you’re making a hat it’s more likely that you’re working a taller stitch such as a hdc or dc and will be joining your stitches. In this case you need to add some height to your adjustable circle before adding the number of stitches indicated in the pattern.

And this, my friend, is the exact moment where the magic or the disaster begins to take place when it comes to invisible joining! To reach the height needed in the pattern we are going to need to chain a bit.

Now hang on with me for a second and let’s talk chaining before we actually do it. When working a piece that is flat (such as a blanket or rectangular scarf) you get to the end of the row and as you know, you chain and turn to start the next row.

The common chaining practice looks as such: To reach the height needed to create your stitches in the next row you will chain 1 if working in sc, chain 2 if working in hdc, chain 3 if working in dc, and ch 4 if working in tr.

The Difference is in the Chain!

This is where I want to share the first a tip for beautiful invisible joins in the round. When working in flat rows continue the practice of adding the above noted number of chains based on the stitch used to reach the needed height for the project. However, when working in the round I want you to reduce the number of chains made by one for each stitch sequence, the exception being for the sc. If choosing to use joined single crochet, continue using the ch 1.

So the new formula for chaining for an invisible join is to ch 1 if working in sc or hdc, ch 2 for dc, and if using tr, ch 3. These chains are what creates the magic no holes and beautiful seams with invisible joins!

I could continue to write more in explanation, but I think it’s probably best now if I walk you through the entire process of making a small joined project because doing is how we’ll likely learn best!

In the process of making I’ll explain why I change the number of chains and do things the way I do and help you understand how you can apply these techniques to your other projects.

I’ll wait here while you go gather a few supplies!

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Let’s Make a Project Together!

A great project to make is either a face scrubbie or a simple coaster. You choose which you would prefer more. If making a face scrubbie I recommend using worsted cotton yarn and only making Rnds 1-3 and then fasten off. If making a coaster work Rnds 1-4 and use a worsted weight fiber of your choice. Details about what I used can be found below.

>Design Note: To start, I’ve written the pattern out in full. Below the full pattern look for further instructions, explanations and photos to help understand the process, and learn how to apply these techniques to your other projects.

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Difficulty

Beginner

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size H/8 (5.0 mm) (This is what I use)
• Stitch Marker (These are my favorite)
• Worsted Weight Scrap Yarn in the color(s) of your choice.
  • I’m using Yarnspirations Caron One Pound (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 812 yds/742 m, 16 oz/453.6 g): Color (A) Sunflower, used approx. 8 yds/ 7 m, Color (B) Grass Green, used approx. 5 yds/ 4.5m, Color (C) Ocean, used approx. 5 yds/ 4.5 m

Finished Measurements

Using hook size H/8 (5.0 mm) the project measures approximately 3 inches in diameter for 3 rounds and approximately 4 inches in diameter for 4 rounds.

Design Notes

• Pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• At the end of each round the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• ch – Chain
• dc – double crochet
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• yo – yarn over
• [ ]/( ) – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring
• invisible join

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Full Pattern

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 10 dc in an adjustable (magic) circle, join to top of first st with sl st, cut tail long enough to weave in end. (10sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 2: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout), 2dc in each st around, join to top of first st with sl st, cut tail long enough to weave in end. (20sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 3: Ch 2, [dc in next st, 2dc in next st] 10 times, join to top of first st with sl st, cut tail long enough to weave in end. (30sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 4: Ch 2, [dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next] 10 times, fasten off using the Invisible Finish! (described near the end of the post). (40sts)
• Weave in the ends.

A Couple Things

Before jumping into working the pattern we need to talk about a couple important things that will come up as we start to make the pattern and are good for you to know to make this technique work for all your projects.

First we’ll talk about the chain used at the beginning of the round and then we’ll talk about how to make color changes just in case you ever want your project to be more than one color.

The Chain

The chain at the beginning of each round will never count as a stitch and is so important to make the invisible join possible. The chain essentially acts as a filler. It fills the gap, instead of leaving a gap, left when the chain counts as a stitch.

Why make the chain smaller than it would typically be? Great question! Because the chain is acting as a filler it really only needs to be the height of the post length of the stitch, not the full height of the stitch. Being a little smaller allows the chain to sit right snug next to the first and last stitch of the round. It fills the gap that would other wise be left and also meets the needed height at the beginning of the round to be able to make the first stitch. One might call it the magic chain made right after the magic circle!

How does it act as a filler when it’s sitting at the front of the round? Another great question! When you finish the last stitch of the round you will join it the the first stitch of the round. Because the chain sits at the front of the round it becomes sandwiched between the first and last stitch and fills up the space that would otherwise be a hole.

How to Make Color Changes Using The Invisible Join Method

Color changes are made like you normally would make a color change. Wait until you reach the stitch right before you want the next color to start. Work this final stitch until the you have the final two loops on the hook. Then, wrap the new color around the end of the hook, leaving about a five inch tail to weave in later. Pull the new yarn through the loops to start the color. In the new color sl st to the 1st st to join and continue with the next round.

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Pattern Explained

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 10 dc in an adjustable (magic) circle, join to top of first st with sl st, cut tail long enough to weave in end. (10sts)

• Image 1: Adjustable circle formed and magic ch 2 made.

With the adjustable circle made you will chain 2 (the magic chain!) to add height before adding the dc needed for the project. The need to chain will not often be written in the pattern. It is something that you will likely need to be able to recognize from experience.

And remember, if you see a pattern that does call for a chain at the beginning that counts as a stitch and is joined into at the end of the round, that this is asking for holes to happen (see the example at the top of the post if a refresher of what this might look like is needed). This is also where you can say to yourself, “I now know a technique that can fix this! I’ll use Jen’s magic chain!”

• Image 2: Nine dc have been made in the adjustable circle with the 10th dc made right up to the final step in preparation for a color change. The first of these 10 dc is marked with a stitch marker.
• Image 3: The adjustable circle has been pulled tight. The color change has been made by pulling the new color through the final two loops of the dc.

>Design Note: If you’re unfamiliar with color changes it’s important to note that the changes are usually noted in the pattern right before the round that will be made in that color, not when the color change actually needs to be made, which is in the last stitch the row before. For this reason (and many more) it’s good to become familiar with the pattern prior to starting and look ahead as you work.

• Image 4: The stitch marker is removed and the sl st is made with the new color in the first dc, Rnd 1 joined.

>Design Note: The newly added color looks super obvious here and you may be wondering how it’s going to blend into the next row. Don’t worry, it does.

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 2: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout), 2dc in each st around, join to top of first st with sl st, cut tail long enough to weave in end. (20sts)

• Image 5: Ch 2 (the magic chain!) is made.
• Image 6: 2dc are made in each st around with the second dc in the last st ready for a color change. The first dc is marked with a stitch marker.
• Image 7: Color changed and slip stitch to the 1st st made.

>Design Note: See how nicely the color change blended in from Rnd 1!

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 3: Ch 2, [dc in next st, 2dc in next st] 10 times, join to top of first st with sl st, cut tail long enough to weave in end. (30sts)

• Image 8: Ch 2 (the magic chain!) is made.
• Image 9: Indicated stitches for Rnd 3 are made all around with the second dc in the last st ready for a color change. The first dc is marked with a stitch marker.

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 4: Ch 2, [dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next] 10 times, fasten off using the Invisible Finish! (described below). (40sts)

• Image 10: Color changed and slip stitch made, joining Rnd 3. Ch 2 (the magic chain!) is made.
• Image 11: Indicated stitches for Rnd 4 are made all around. The first dc is marked with a stitch marker. It’s now time to finish off using the Invisible Finish (see how below).

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How to Make the Invisible Finish

Let’s make that beautiful uniform edge on your project using the Invisible Finish!

Because it’s now time to weave in all the ends anyway, I find it easiest to use a tapestry needle to make the Invisible Finish. It may be worth noting that you may come across a similar technique done using a crochet hook to pull the tail through the loops described below and then finish off by weaving the tail in with a tapestry needle. Starting from the beginning with the tapestry needle at this point just makes more sense to me so that’s what I’ve shown below.

• Image 12: Cut the tail leaving at least a five inch length for weaving in the end, and pull the tail straight through the last stitch with your hook (no yarning over).
• Image 13: Tail pulled straight through the final stitch.

• Image 14: Thread the tail on a tapestry needle and insert the tapestry needle in the first stitch from the front to the back of the work through both loops,
• Image 15: Insert the tapestry needle in the last stitch of the round from the middle of the stitch under the back loop only.

• Pull the tail down to the same size and shape as the other stitches on the edge of the round,
• Weave in the tail and the rest of the ends.

And there you have it, a seamless and beautiful edge to your piece to go along with all those invisible joins! No more holes and no more messy edges!

When Should You Use the Invisible Finish?

• The Invisible Finish works for all types of stitches!
• It should be used when working in the round, and works well for both the invisible join and continuous round techniques.
• Use it when the edge of your project will show, like with a hat, a bag, or a coaster, for example. When the edge will be covered or seamed using this technique is not necessary.

When to Use the Invisible Finish When Making Amigurumi

Amigurumi are most commonly made using single crochet in a continuous (spiral) round so joining is not an issue. However, the Invisible Finish can at times be very useful.

It would be an unnecessary step to make the invisible Finish on amigurumi pieces that will be stitched together such as the body to the head because the edges will not be seen once they are joined.

You would use the Invisible Finish where the edge of the piece will be prominently displayed. For amigurumi this opportunity most frequently presents itself when making clothing. For example, on the bottom edge of a dress or on the edge of a sleeve.

The sleeves for the Cottage Garden Crochet Bunny’s Jacket are a great example. If the invisible finish is not used in this case, then an ugly bump is left on the edge of the sleeve where the final slip stitch is made to join Rnd 22.

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Looking for more great stitch tutorials?

These may be of interest! 1. How to Crochet an I-Cord 2. How to Crochet the Star Stitch

Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!

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Copyright and Use Policy

This tutorial, pattern, and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this tutorial/pattern on social media by using my social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!