Gift Card Stockings

Today I bring you the Gift Card Stockings pattern! Actually a set of four simple patterns that pack a big punch in the modern cuteness department!

Whether you choose to use these stockings to hold gift cards as the name implies or for other items or decorations, they’re sure to add an extra special touch to your gift-giving and holiday decorations.

---

Already Have Something on Your Hook?

• PIN the Crochet Gift Card Stockings to your Pinterest boards for later HERE!
• Add the Crochet Gift Card Stockings to your Ravelry queue HERE!

---

Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Please see the disclosure page if you would like further details.

---

The Inspiration

Recently I designed and shared the Mini Crochet Stockings pattern here on the blog. While brainstorming all the fun and creative ways to use them as ways to spread kindness, decorate my home, give gifts, etc I realized that these mini stockings worked for a wide variety of things, but didn’t quite work for one thing that I really wanted them to, for giving gift cards!

Some people say that gift cards are too impersonal a gift, but I don’t agree. I love receiving gift cards to use at the places I love most and don’t consider it impersonal at all, and know that others feel the same.

If you enjoy giving gift cards as well during the holidays, then this is one way to add an extra special touch!

Not a gift card giver? That’s okay too. Fill your stockings up with other treats or gifts, or if you prefer, as cute decorations or ornaments.

I’d love to hear how you plan to use them, comment below and tell me your ideas!

---

The Yarn

when I made the Mini Crochet Stockings I stuck with the traditional red, green and white colors from Yarnspirations in the Caron Simply Soft line. This time I decided to go with a look that I personally love using tweeds in more natural colors.

I again chose to stick with Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft but went with the tweed version of this yarn. I’m very pleased with how they turned out and feel that it created just the perfect look that I was trying to achieve.

For a simple way to add some fun texture and modernity to the stockings, I used the Bernat Pipsqueak yarn for several of the cuffs. This is a fuzzy yarn that is easy to work with and comes in fifteen different colors (both solids and prints). It was my first time using this yarn, and I will say, that it definitely won’t be my last.

Of course, you are welcome to use any color or type of yarn that you wish from your stash. This, in fact, does make a great stash-buster project! I just give one word of warning, if you’re wanting to use your stockings for gift cards make sure to check your gauge!

---

---

The Patterns

Difficulty

Beginner to Advanced Beginner

All of the stockings are made using sc. The trickiest part may be using the fur yarn because it’s difficult to see the stitches. Tips that may help when working with fur yarn: 1. Practice, 2. Use your fingers to feel the stitches as you go, and 3. Count ALL the stitches as you go.

---

Update: I now have a post all about working with Furry Yarn! – 20 Tips for Crocheting With Furry Yarn

---

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size G/6 (4.0 mm) (These are the ones I use)
• Stitch Marker(s) (These are my favorite)
• Scissors (These are of the pairs I use)
• Tapestry Needle (This is what I use)
• 3/4 inch (20 mm) Pom-Pom Maker (optional) (These are the ones I use)
• Wooden button(s) and thread (optional)
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Tweeds (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (A) Taupe, Color (B) Off White. The amount of each color used varies per stocking based on design choice. The approximate yardage used is noted below at the beginning of each individual pattern.
• Yarnspirations Bernat Pipsqueak (5-bulky, 100% polyester, 101 yds/92 m, 3.5 oz/100 g), Color (C) Chocolate, Color (D) Vanilla. The amount of each color used varies per stocking based on design choice. The approximate yardage used is noted below at the beginning of each individual pattern.

Gauge

Using hook size G/6 (4.0 mm) the first 3 rounds of any of the patterns measure 1.5 inches (4 cm) in diameter, unblocked.

Finished Measurements

The Gift Card Stockings measure approximately 3.5 inches (9 cm) across at the widest point by 5.25 inches (13 cm) tall not including the hanging tab.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in rounds with a small section of the heel worked in rows and on Stocking 4 the cuff is also worked in rows.
• It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. The starting point will change once in the pattern and will be noted.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – back loop only
• ch – chain
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Row(s) – Rows
• sc – single crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• st(s) – stitch(s)
• magic circle/adjustable ring

---

Prefer an Ad-Free PDF?

---

Let’s Make Our Stockings!

All of the stockings are similar in construction but with each one, a new component is added to add a bit more complexity as well as add to the possible variations.

Stocking 1 is created using worsted weight yarn. It is the base stocking pattern. It can be made using the two colors as written or simplified even more by using one solid color. Once mastered, the world opens up to new possibilities. Perhaps even consider trying stripes!

For Stocking 2 fur yarn is incorporated to add a bit of fun and texture. If unfamiliar with working with fur yarn this blog post may be beneficial, 20 Tips for Crocheting With Furry Yarn.

Stocking 3 features design elements from both Stocking 1 and Stocking 2 with the addition of a pom-pom detail.

Stocking 4 goes back to using worsted weight yarn and utilizes a ribbed, fold over top creating added dimension and unique possibilities.  

Once familiar with all of the patterns, mix and match the features to create a wide variety of personalized stockings. Also, consider adding buttons, tags, lace, or trim as an easy way to add character and charm. These stockings are sure to be both loved and shared for generations! Happy Crocheting!

---

Stocking 1

Approximate Yardage Used: Color (A) Taupe, approximately 20 yds/ 18 m, Color (B) Off White, approximately 25 yds/ 23 m

Using Color (A) – Taupe

Starting at the toe of the stocking and working to the top.

• Rnd 1: 9sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (9sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 9sc in 2nd chain from hook. (9sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (18sts)

>Design Tip: Weave in the starting tail before it becomes difficult to reach. Weave in or crochet over any tails as the pattern progresses as they will be difficult to reach once the stocking is completed.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 9 times. (27sts)
• Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 4 Rnds)

Switch to Color (B) – Off White

>Design Tip: When switching colors there is a technique that can help “blend” the change between the two colors when working in the round. This is done by making the first stitch in the new color a sl st instead of a sc. The technique is especially helpful when working in stripes, as it makes the stripes more circular looking rather than stair-step looking (often referred to as jogging). The pattern is written with the sl st technique. If preferred, the initial sl st at the beginning of the round can be changed to a sc.

• Rnd 8: Sl st (counts as a st), sc in the next 26sts. (27sts)
• Rnds 9-13: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 5 Rnds)

It’s time to create the heel of the stocking. The heel is created by working in turned rows. Below they will be noted as Rows but the Rnd/Row count will continue to increase.

Switch to Color (A) – Taupe

• Row 14: Sl st (counts as a st), sc in the next 13sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (14sts)
• Rows 15-20: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across. (14sts for 6 Rows)

• It’s time to form the heel of the stocking (see image above). Fold the Rows portion together so the right sides are touching (away from the toe), lining up and matching the stitches of Row 20 side by side. Sc across, joining the top edges of Row 20 together, creating a seam. (7sts) Fasten off and weave in the tail. Push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper.

>Design Option: If preferred, fasten off and whip stitch the edge together using a tapestry needle (these are the ones I use almost exclusively) to create the seam instead of using single crochet.

>Design Note: Rnd 21 is once again worked in the round. A nice base will be created by working over the rougher edges of the heel (the sides of the rows created when making the heel, thus not the regular nice-looking V stitches) and into the stitches that were skipped in Row 14.

Switch to Color (B) – Off White

• Rnd 21: Sc in the left-center back of the heel with a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st). Sc 6 more times on the left side, reaching the 13 skipped sts from Row 14 at the toe of the stocking, sc in each of the next 13sts, sc 7 more sts along the right side of the heel. (27sts)
• Rnds 22-33: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 12 Rnds)

Making the Cuff

Switch to Color (A) – Taupe

• Rnd 34: Sl st (counts as a st), sc in the next 26sts. (27sts)
• Rnds 35-37: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 38: To reach the back center: Sc in the next 2sts, sl st in the next st (This should be the center back. Make adjustments by adding or removing sts if needed. The final st should be a sl st.), leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

Hanging Loop

>Design Option: The following instructions make a hanging loop. If no loop is desired, fasten off and weave in the end. Change the size of the loop if needed by adding or removing the number of chains before making the final sl st.

• Ch12 (+/-), sl st back into the same st, fasten off and weave in the tail.

---

Stocking 2

Approximate Yardage Used: Color (B) Off white, approximately 40 yds/ 36.5 m, Color (C) Chocolate, approximately 11 yds/ 10 m

Using Color (B) – Off White

Starting at the toe of the stocking and working to the top.

• Rnd 1: 9sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (9sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 9sc in 2nd chain from hook. (9sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (18sts)

>Design Tip: Weave in the starting tail before it becomes difficult to reach. Weave in or crochet over any tails as the pattern progresses as they will be difficult to reach once the stocking is completed.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 9 times. (27sts)
• Rnds 4-13: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 10 Rnds)

It’s time to create the heel of the stocking. The heel is created by working in turned rows. Below they will be noted as Rows but the Rnd/Row count will continue to increase.

• Row 14: Sc in the next 14sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (14sts)
• Rows 15-20: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across. (14sts for 6 Rows)
• It’s time to form the heel of the stocking. Fold the Rows portion together so the right sides are touching (away from the toe), lining up and matching the stitches of Row 20 side by side. Sc across, joining the top edges of Row 20 together, creating a seam. (7sts) Fasten off and weave in the tail. Push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper. (See pictures in the pattern for Stocking 1 if needed.)

>Design Option: If preferred, fasten off and whip stitch the edge together using a tapestry needle (these are the ones I use almost exclusively) to create the seam instead of using single crochet.

>Design Note: Rnd 21 is once again worked in the round. A nice base will be created by working over the rougher edges of the heel (the sides of the rows created when making the heel, thus not the regular nice-looking V stitches) and into the stitches that were skipped in Row 14. (See pictures in the pattern for Stocking 1 if needed.)

• Rnd 21: Sc in the left-center back of the heel with a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st). Sc 6 more times on the left side, reaching the 13 skipped sts from Row 14 at the toe of the stocking, sc in each of the next 13sts, sc 7 more sts along the right side of the heel. (27sts)
• Rnds 22-33: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 12 Rnds)

>Design Tip: When switching colors there is a technique that can help “blend” the change between the two colors when working in the round. This is done by making the first stitch in the new color a sl st instead of a sc. The technique is especially helpful when working in stripes, as it makes the stripes more circular looking rather than stair-step looking (often referred to as jogging). The pattern is written with the sl st technique. If preferred, the initial sl st at the beginning of the round can be changed to a sc.

Making the Cuff

Switch to Color (C) – Chocolate

• Rnd 34: Sl st (counts as a st), sc in the next 26sts. (27sts)
• Rnds 35-37: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 3 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st, fasten off and weave in the tail.

Hanging Loop

Using Color (B) – Off White

For Stocking 2, the hanging loop is placed on the inside of the stocking below the cuff instead of on the top of the cuff like Stocking 1.

• With the new yarn on the hook (leaving a tail long enough to weave in), insert the hook into one of the sts at the center back under the cuff portion making sure to catch just the yarn on the inside of the stocking so as to not have it show through on the outside of the stocking, make a sl st.

• Ch 20, sl st back into the same spot. (To make the loop longer or shorter, add or remove chains before making the final sl st. (20sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the tails.

---

Stocking 3

Approximate Yardage Used: Color (A) Taupe, approximately 28 yds/ 26 m, Color (B) Off White, approximately 20 yds/ 18 m, Color (D) Vanilla, approximately 9 yds/ 8 m

Using Color (B) – Off White

Starting at the toe of the stocking and working to the top.

• Rnd 1: 9sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (9sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 9sc in 2nd chain from hook. (9sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (18sts)

>Design Tip: Weave in the starting tail before it becomes difficult to reach. Weave in or crochet over any tails as the pattern progresses as they will be difficult to reach once the stocking is completed.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 9 times. (27sts)
• Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 4 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A) – Taupe

>Design Tip: When switching colors there is a technique that can help “blend” the change between the two colors when working in the round. This is done by making the first stitch in the new color a sl st instead of a sc. The technique is especially helpful when working in stripes, as it makes the stripes more circular looking rather than stair-step looking (often referred to as jogging). The pattern is written with the sl st technique. If preferred, the initial sl st at the beginning of the round can be changed to a sc.

• Rnd 8: Sl st (counts as a st), sc in the next 26sts. (27sts)
• Rnds 9-13: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 5 Rnds)

It’s time to create the heel of the stocking. The heel is created by working in turned rows. Below they will be noted as Rows but the Rnd/Row count will continue to increase.

Switch to Color (B) – Off White

• Row 14: Sl st (counts as a st), sc in the next 13sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (14sts)
• Rows 15-20: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (14sts for 6 Rows)
• It’s time to form the heel of the stocking. Fold the Rows portion together so the right sides are touching (away from the toe), lining up and matching the stitches of Row 20 side by side. Sc across, joining the top edges of Row 20 together, creating a seam. (7sts) Fasten off and weave in the tail. Push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper. (See pictures in the pattern for Stocking 1 if needed.)

>Design Option: If preferred, fasten off and whip stitch the edge together using a tapestry needle (these are the ones I use almost exclusively) to create the seam instead of using single crochet.

>Design Note: Rnd 21 is once again worked in the round. A nice base will be created by working over the rougher edges of the heel (the sides of the rows created when making the heel, thus not the regular nice-looking V stitches) and into the stitches that were skipped in Row 14. (See pictures in the pattern for Stocking 1 if needed.)

Switch to Color (A) – Taupe

• Rnd 21: Sc in the left-center back of the heel with a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st). Sc 6 more times on the left side, reaching the 13 skipped sts from Row 14 at the toe of the stocking, sc in each of the next 13sts, sc 7 more sts along the right side of the heel. (27sts)
• Rnds 22-33: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 12 Rnds)

Making the Cuff

Switch to Color (D) – Vanilla

• Rnd 34: Sl st (counts as a st), sc in the next 26sts. (27sts)
• Rnds 35-37: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 3 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st, fasten off and weave in the tail.

Hanging Loop

Using Color (B) – Off White

For Stocking 3, the hanging loop is placed on the inside of the stocking below the cuff just like Stocking 2 instead of on the top of the cuff like Stocking 1.

• With the new yarn on the hook (leaving a tail long enough to weave in), insert the hook into one of the sts at the center back under the cuff portion making sure to catch just the yarn on the inside of the stocking so as to not have it show through on the outside of the stocking, make a sl st. (See pictures for Stocking 2 under Hanging Loop if needed.)
• Ch 20, sl st back into the same spot. (To make the loop longer or shorter, add or remove chains before making the final sl st. (20sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the tails.

Pom-Pom Tassels

Using Color (B) – Off White

• Using a 3/4 inch (20 mm) pom-pom maker make 2 pom-poms following the manufacturer’s instructions. Make the strands used to tie the pom-poms about 15 inches (38 cm) long to be able to attach them to the stocking.

• Once the pom-poms are made, thread all four strands (two from each pom-pom) on a tapestry needle and insert the needle in the center back of the stocking directly under the cuff. (If it’s easier one pom-pom can be attached at a time.)
• Adjust the yarn lengths to the desired hanging level for the pom-poms. Those in the pictures have about 1 inch (2.5 cm) between the cuff and the pom-poms). Now on the inside of the stocking tie the strands together in a knot holding two strands together at a time, maintaining the length.
• Weave in each of the ends into the body of the stocking (making sure not to let the yarn show through on the other side) to add extra security so the pom-pom will remain attached if they happen to be tugged on.

---

Stocking 4

Approximate Yardage Used: Color (A) Taupe, approximately 20 yds/ 18 m, Color (B) Off White, approximately 25 yds/ 23 m

Using Color (B) – Off White

Starting at the toe of the stocking and working to the top.

• Rnd 1: 9sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (9sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 9sc in 2nd chain from hook. (9sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (18sts)

>Design Tip: Weave in the starting tail before it becomes difficult to reach. Weave in or crochet over any tails as the pattern progresses as they will be difficult to reach once the stocking is completed.

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 9 times. (27sts)
• Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 4 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A) – Taupe

>Design Tip: When switching colors there is a technique that can help “blend” the change between the two colors when working in the round. This is done by making the first stitch in the new color a sl st instead of a sc. The technique is especially helpful when working in stripes, as it makes the stripes more circular looking rather than stair-step looking (often referred to as jogging). The pattern is written with the sl st technique. If preferred, the initial sl st at the beginning of the round can be changed to a sc.

• Rnd 8: Sl st (counts as a st), sc in the next 26sts. (27sts)
• Rnds 9-13: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 5 Rnds)

It’s time to create the heel of the stocking. The heel is created by working in turned rows. Below they will be noted as Rows but the Rnd/Row count will continue to increase.

Switch to Color (B) – Off White

• Row 14: Sl st (counts as a st), sc in the next 13sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (14sts)
• Rows 15-20: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (14sts for 6 Rows)
• It’s time to form the heel of the stocking. Fold the Rows portion together so the right sides are touching (away from the toe), lining up and matching the stitches of Row 20 side by side. Sc across, joining the top edges of Row 20 together, creating a seam. (7sts) Fasten off and weave in the tail. Push the seam back to the inside of the stocking. It should now look like a little slipper. (See pictures in the pattern for Stocking 1 if needed.)

>Design Option: If preferred, fasten off and whip stitch the edge together using a tapestry needle (these are the ones I use almost exclusively) to create the seam instead of using single crochet.

>Design Note: Rnd 21 is once again worked in the round. A nice base will be created by working over the rougher edges of the heel (the sides of the rows created when making the heel, thus not the regular nice-looking V stitches) and into the stitches that were skipped in Row 14. (See pictures in the pattern for Stocking 1 if needed.)

Switch to Color (A) – Taupe

• Rnd 21: Sc in the left-center back of the heel with a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st). Sc 6 more times on the left side, reaching the 13 skipped sts from Row 14 at the toe of the stocking, sc in each of the next 13sts, sc 7 more sts along the right side of the heel. (27sts)
• Rnds 22-37: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 16 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st, fasten off and weave in the tail.

Making the Fold-Over Cuff

This cuff is different than all the other stockings. It is made separately and then attached to the stocking body.

Using Color (B) – Off White

Ch 1, turn at the end of each row.

• Ch 12
• Row 1: Working in the back bar of the chain: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (11sts)
• Rows 2-27: Working in BLO: Sc in each st across. (11sts for 26 Rows)
• Weave in the starting tail.

• Line up the short edges of the cuff, lining up the stitches equally.

• Ch 1, working in the BLO of both edges, sc across, seaming the cuff together. (11sts)

>Design Tip: When the edges are seamed together using the BLO to do so, it creates a join that more seamlessly matches the ribbed look created when working in the BLO for the cuff. This technique can be utilized for other items like a hat or mitten ribbing to name a couple.

• Insert the cuff inside the stocking with the working loop at the center back of the stocking.

• Ch1, sc the top edge of the stocking and cuff together all the way around. (27sts)
• Sl st to the first st, fasten off and weave in the end.
• Fold the cuff over the top of the stocking.

Hanging Loop

Using Color (B) – Off White

For Stocking 4, the hanging loop is placed on the inside of the stocking just under the cuff at the center back.

• Locate the center back just under the cuff, on the inside of the stocking. Insert your hook into one of the sts there making sure just to catch the yarn on the inside of the stocking so as to not have it show through on the outside of the stocking, make a sl st.

(See pictures for Stocking 2 under Hanging Loop if needed.)

• Ch 15, sl st back into the same spot. (To make the loop longer or shorter, add or remove chains before making the final sl st. (15sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the tails.

---

Looking for More Great Patterns?!!

These may be of interest! 1. Simple Amigurumi Penguin 2. Crochet Puppy Dog 3. Mini Crochet Stockings

Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!

As always, I’d love to see your creation if you’re willing to share! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, Instagram (tag @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!

Also, remember that the best way to always be in the loop about new patterns, techniques, tutorials, giveaways, and crafty fun is to subscribe to the newsletter! Thanks for your support!

---

Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!