Fantastic Crochet Fox

Do you enjoy walks down memory lane? I took a small jaunt down memory lane recently and into the Jen Hayes Creations pattern vault to bring you today’s Fantastic Crochet Fox pattern! I originally designed this pattern back in November of 2015 for one of my daughters, as part of her Christmas gifts. Her fox has been well loved over the years, has seen the world through a child’s play, and is still beautiful in all it’s handmade glory. I just love handmade toys and I imagine that you do too if you are reading this! I must also admit that it was also fun to go back and reminisce over my work and recognize the areas in which I, myself, have grown over the years in my designs. In reworking the pattern I also wanted to ensure that I could write all the notes that I thought would be beneficial to my readers as they work through the pattern, creating timeless treasures for themselves and those the love and care for.

Are you at all curious what I discover in my pattern reminiscing? The majority of the pattern I decided to keep the same, but I did make one change. Originally I had the orange stitches spiking into the white of the tail and I decided that I’d like it better if the white instead spiked into the orange, so I changed that. Other than that minor choice in design (and it really could be considered a personal preference), the pattern remains timeless. Isn’t that often how it is with handmade things?! Perhaps this is why I love them so much?!!

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Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Safety eyes, 10 mm
• Chopstick, dowel, or another similar item to help with stuffing
• Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g), Color (A) Carrot, less than 1 skein, Color (B) Soft White, less than 1 skein, Color (C), less than 1 skein

Gauge

Gauge is not essential to this project, but tension should be maintained.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) about 12 inches (31 cm) from the tip of the ear to the bottom of the leg.

Design Notes

• This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. I choose to use a size E crochet hook. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing to show through. If a different sized hook works better for you, then, by all means, use it! Do note, however, that if you change the hook size or the type of yarn you are using, that this will have an effect on the size and look of your finished item.
• The majority of this pattern is written in rounds. The ears will be created using rows.
• It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and to move it up as you start each additional round.
• At the end of each round/row I will note in parenthesis how many stitches you should have once completed.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• ch – Chain
• Long sc (sc spike) – sc into row noted below the row you are on  
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Row(s) – Row(s)
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Let’s Make Our Fox!

Body

Using Color (A)
We will be working from the bottom of the fox up to the top of the neck.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2^nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (48sts)
• Rnd 9-13: Sc in each st around (48sts for 5 rows)
• Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 6sc, sc2tog] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 15-16:  Sc in each st around (42sts for 2 rows)
• Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 5sc, sc2tog] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnd 18-19: Sc in each st around (36sts for 2 rows)
• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 3 times (33sts)
• Rnds 21-22: Sc in each st around (33sts for 2 rows)
• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 3 times (30sts)
• Rnd 24: [Sc in each st around (30sts)
• Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 3 times (27sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around (27sts)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 3 times (24sts)
• Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 3 times (21sts)
• Sl st, fasten off leaving a tail long enough for sewing on the head
• Stuff and shape the body

Head

The head will be worked from the back of the head to the tip of the nose.
Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2^nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (48sts)
• Rnd 9:  Sc in each st around (48sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 7sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (54sts)
• Rnds 11-15: Sc in each st around (54sts for 5 rows)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 7sc, sc2tog] 6 times (48sts)
• Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 6sc, sc2tog] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 5sc, sc2tog] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 4sc, sc2tog] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around (30sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 3sc, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 22: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnds 23-25: Sc in each st around (18sts for 3 rows)

Before we get our hole too small we want to be sure to insert the safety eyes! I inserted them at the edge of the white about 6sts apart.

• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
• Rnd 27: [Sc2tog] 6 times (6sts)
• Sl st, Fasten off. Use the tail to close up and shape the tail.

Legs

Make 2
The legs will be made from the bottom up.
Stuff firmly as you go. This is where the chopstick helps!

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2^nd chain from hook (4sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (8sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 4 times (12sts)
• Rnds 4-5:  Sc in each st around (12sts for 2 rows)
• Rnd 6: [Sc2tog] 2times, sc in the next 8sc (10sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 5sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sc (9sts)
• Rnds 8-14: Sc in each st around (9sts for 7 rows)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 15-28: Sc in each st around (9sts for 14 rows)
• Sl st, fasten off. Leave a tail for sewing the leg to the body.

Arms

Make 2
The arms will be made from the bottom up.
Stuff firmly as you go. This is where the chopstick helps!

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2^nd chain from hook (4sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (8sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 4 times (12sts)
• Rnd 4:  Sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 3 times (9sts)
• Rnds 6-17:  Sc in each st around (9sts for 12 rows)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 18-31:  Sc in each st around (9sts for 14 rows)

The next few rounds we will actually be working in rows, turning our work at the end of each row. We will be creating a shoulder cap.

>Design Tip: Don’t like the shoulder cap? You can eliminate it. Just see how you like the length of the arms as they are up to this point. Add additional rounds of sc if more length is desired.

• Rnd 32: Sc in the next 4sc, leave the remaining sts unworked, turn (4sts)
• Rnd 33: Ch1, [sc2tog] 2times, turn (2sts)
• Rnd 34: Ch1, sc2tog (1st)
• Fasten off. Leave a tail for attaching the arm to the body.

Tail

>Design Tip: Leave a long starting tail to use for attaching the tail to the body later.
Using Color (A)

• Ch10, sl st to the 1st ch to join into a round
• Rnd 1: Ch1, sc in each st around (10sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2times (12sts)
• Rnd 3:  Sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 5sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (14sts)
• Rnds 5-7: Sc in each st around (14sts for 3 rows)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (16sts)
• Rnds 9-11: Sc in each st around (16sts for 3 rows)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 7sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (18sts)
• Rnds 13-15: Sc in each st around (18sts for 3 rows)
• Rnd 16:  [Sc in the next 8sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (20sts)
• Rnds 17-24: Sc in each st around (20sts for 8 rows)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 25: [sc, long sc 2 rows below] 10 times (20sts)
• Rnds 26-27: Sc in each st around (20sts for 2 rows)

>Design Note: If you want to stuff the tail you should do so now. I lightly stuffed mine. You can also add stuffing from the top hole once completed if needed.

• Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 8sc, sc2tog] 2 times (18sts)
• Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 7sc, sc2tog] 2 times (16sts)
• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 4 times (12sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc2tog] 6 times (6sts)
• Sl st, fasten off. Use the tail to close up and shape the tail more if desired.

Ears

Outer Ear

Made from the tip of the ear to the base, the ears are worked in rows.
Make 2
Using Color (A)
>Design Note: You DON’T need the tails on these outer pieces to be long for sewing, just long enough to weave them in.

• Ch2
• Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, turn (2sts)
• Row 2: Ch1, [2sc in the next sc] 2 times, turn (4sts)
• Row 3: Ch1, 2sc in the 1st sc, [sc in the next st] 2 times, 2sc in the last sc, turn (6sts)
• Row 4: Ch1, 2sc in the 1st sc, [sc in the next st] 4 times, 2sc in the last sc, turn (8sts)
• Row 5: Ch1, 2sc in the 1st sc, [sc in the next st] 6 times, 2sc in the last sc, turn (10st)
• Rows 6-7: Ch1, sc in each st across (10sts for 2 rows)
• Fasten off. Weave in your ends

Inner Ear

Made from the tip of the ear to the base, the ears are worked in rows.
Make 2
Using Color (B)
>Design Note: You DON’T need the tails on these inner pieces to be long for sewing, just long enough to weave them in.

• Ch2
• Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, turn (2sts)
• Row 2: Ch1, [2sc in the next sc] 2 times, turn (4sts)
• Row 3: Ch1, 2sc in the 1st sc, [sc in the next st] 2 times, 2sc in the last sc, turn (6sts)
• Row 4: Ch1, 2sc in the 1st sc, [sc in the next st] 4 times, 2sc in the last sc, turn (8sts)
• Row 5: Ch1, sc in each st across (8sts)
• Fasten off. Weave in your ends

Ear Assembly

• Place the inner ear piece on top of the outer ear piece (see pictures if needed). With right side facing you, you will now fasten on and sc around the outer edges of these two pieces using Color (A), working through both pieces on the outer edges. Yes, they are not the same size, but it works out. I liked the look of the orange being pulled over onto the white more with their differing sizes. Just sc around the outer edges like you normally would sc two pieces together. In the bottom corners, you will need to add an extra stitch or two to round the corner. Looking at the pictures you can see that I start the orange a few rows down from the top on the left side of the triangle and work my way around until I reach the top right side, about the same distance from the top as the left, and then leave the rest unworked. Leave the final orange tail longer as you can weave it down to the bottom corner and then utilize it to attach the ear to the head during assembly.

>Design Note: If you don’t like the varying outer and inner ear sizes you can always just make them both the same size and then sc them together as described above and below.

• Now, using Color (C), fasten on to the upper right side of the unworked portion of the ear and using long sc sts fill in completely, the top portion of the ear. Be sure to watch both the front and the back portion of the ear to ensure that you are getting complete coverage on both sides. You will be working in each st as many times as necessary to ensure complete coverage of the upper portion of the ear. Fasten off. Weave in all the ends other than the one you will be using to attach the ears to the head.

Assembly

• Pin all your pieces together until you have the desired placement and then stitch securely in place using your tapestry needle. By using small, even stitches, making sure to catch each st as you are sewing up your piece, it will make for a more professional-looking piece. You’ve spent a lot of time making the individual pieces, now be sure to take the needed time to assemble them into a professionally finished piece! I understand the desire to just have it all put together, but I promise, taking the extra time needed to do it right will be worth it!

> Design Tip: Remember when sewing your pieces together, right before stitching up the final few stitches of each piece, add more stuffing to fill in the open cavity that is there, and then completely close up the hole. This will add more stability to the neck, arms, and legs.

Nose

The nose is created by threading your tapestry needle with Color (C) and whip stitching a triangular shape with stitches closely touching, even overlapping sometimes, to ensure that no white is showing through on the tip.

Looking for more free patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Braided Bobble Crochet Bag 2. Slouchy Crochet Beanie 3. Crochet Bobble Sheep

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