Diamonds in Tunisian Crochet Bag

I‘m excited to share with you the Diamonds in Tunisian Crochet Bag! If you’ve never worked in Tunisian before, or you are just learning how, then this pattern has just the right amount of color changes to keep it interesting, but simple enough for you to master! The entire bag is worked in the Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS), sometimes also referred to as the Basic Stitch or the Afghan Stitch.

In my opinion this is the perfect stitch to start out with when learning Tunisian Crochet. It’s easily mastered and opens the world to endless possibilities, especially if you love charted patterns! I’ll definitely be sharing more later, it’s a personal favorite!

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Let’s Get Started!

Materials

• Tunisian Crochet Hook, Size H (5.0 mm) (I used a straight/rigid hook for this project). (If you do a lot of Tunisian Crochet it may be worth investing in a nicer set. This set by ChiaoGoo is pricier but a brand that I love and I also appreciate that you can buy cables in various lengths to compensate for your project needs.)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Tapestry Needle
• Bobbins
• Pins
• Blocking Mats (These blocking mats are great if you need a grid but for a cheaper alternative I use these mats)
• Tape Measure or Gauge tool
• Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 236 yds/215 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (A) Grey Heather, I used all but 0.50oz of one skein, so there is a possibility that you will need an additional skein if you change your hook size or have a varying tension
• Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g), Color (B) Light Raspberry, less than 1 skein, Color (C) Light Periwinkle, less than 1 skein
  

Gauge

5sts by 4 rows in Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS) Blocked = 1 inch

Finished Measurements

Bag measures 11.5 inches (29 cm) wide by 10.75 inches (27 cm) tall, not counting the handle.

The strap measures approximately 27.5 inches (70 cm) long by 1.5 inches (4 cm) wide.

 Design Notes 

• Because this is not a wearable item, gauge is not necessarily essential, but maintaining even tension will make for a more professional looking piece.
• I used a size H hook. If you are just starting to learn Tunisian Crochet, it may be easier to go up in hook size, even a couple hook sizes.
• The Tunisian Simple Stitch has a tendency to curl so you will likely want to block your piece before seaming up the edges or adding the handle to help remove the curl.
• Tunisian Crochet is never turned. You work the right side facing you back and forth, utilizing a forward and a reverse pass (described below).
• For this pattern, I have used a colorwork chart. Each row symbolizes both the forward and reverse pass. Do not move onto the next row until you’ve done both the forward and the reverse pass. In Tunisian you read the chart from the bottom up and right to left (if you’re a right handed crocheter) and left to right (if you’re a left handed crocheter).

How to Work the Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS)

Chain the number of stitches needed for your project, plus one.

Forward pass: Skip the first vertical bar, inserting you hook from right to left under the 2nd vertical bar, yo and pull up a loop, keep the loop on the hook. Continue picking up loops this way until you reach the last st. On the last st, insert the hook under the last vertical bar AND the bar that lies directly behind it (two more bars on the hook), yo and pull up a loop (Note: Going through both bars on the last stitch will make the left edge of your work look nice and finished. The right side naturally has a finished look to it as you work the piece).

Return pass: Yo, pull through 1 loop (essentially ch1), *yo, pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * to the end (you’ll have 1 loop left on the hook).

>Design Note: On the first row (counting as the forward pass) work into the back (horizontal) bar of the 2nd  chain by inserting your hook from front to back, yo and pull up a loop, keep the loop on the hook. Continue picking up loops until you reach the last st. Working in the back bar on this foundation chain will leave the nice v-stitch on the underside, which will later be the top edge of your bag.
When you finish the forward pass you will always have 60 loops on your hook. When you finish the return pass you will always be left with one loop on the hook.

Okay! Let’s do this!

Body of the Bag

The body of the bag will be worked in one rectangular piece and stitched up the sides after being blocked.

You’ll start by making the front part of the bag. This is the part that you’ll need the chart for.

Starting with Color (B) and then changing as the chart directs,

• Ch 60
• R 1-47: Follow the colorwork chart as directed

>Design Note: At this point the patterned portion is completed and all there is left is continue with your Color (A), unless however you want the design on both sides of the bag. If this is the case, the chart design is symmetrical so you can simply repeat it, except you will need move the first five rows worked in Color (B) to the top of the chart.

Using Color (A)

• R 48-94: Continue working the TSS

Binding off and Finishing

• In Tunisian Crochet the stitches are bound off using a slip stitch. To do this, *insert your hook from right to left under the vertical bar (just as if you were doing a forward pass), yo and pull through the vertical bar and the loop on your hook. Repeat from * to end, on the last stitch make sure to work through both the last vertical bar and the bar that lies directly behind it as you have done in all the previous rows.
• Fasten off. Weave in all your ends.
• Block your bag!!!!

Strap

The strap can be lengthened or shortened based on your personal preference.

Using Color (B)

• Ch 8
• Row 1-99: Follow the chart, making color changes as shown.

Binding off and finishing

• Follow the same directions as given for the body of the bag.

Assembly

After your bag and strap are blocked to your liking you can then begin to assemble your pieces!
There are several ways that you can assemble your bag. I’ll tell you how I did it and then give you some other possible design options.

How I Assembled My Bag
I wanted to create a visible seam on the outside edge of my bag to add extra interest, so with right sides facing each other (wrong sides facing out) and using my tapestry needle and a long length of yarn (coordinating with either the grey or the pink on the edge of the bag) I used the mattress stitch to seam up my bag. Because I had the right sides facing each other this made the seem come to the front, creating my desired look.

I’m working towards having videos for my patterns, but for now, if you need help with the mattress stitch, I found this video to be very informative.

>Design alternative option 1:  If you would prefer the seam to be on the inside of the bag, simply have the wrong sides facing each other (right sides facing out) and use the mattress stitch to seam up your pieces.

>Design alternative option 2: Place right sides facing, whip stitch the edges of your bag and then turn right side out (seams will be on the inside).

>Design alternative option 3: Place right sides facing and either single crochet or slip stitch the edges together and then turn right side out (seams will be on the inside).

>Design alternative option 4: You think of another creative option and share it with me!!!

Attaching the straps to the bag

I wanted a bit more stability to my straps so instead of lining up the edges and just sewing them together where they join, I overlapped the body of the bag with three rows of the strap and then whip stitched around the entire bottom square, where the bag and the strap are resting on each other. You will need to find the center edge of one side your bag and the center edge of one of your straps, line them up, pin, and stitch. Then repeat this process on the other side. I had the pink portion of the strap facing the front part of my bag.

Enjoy your new bag! Please do share! I’d love to see it!

Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1.Braided Bobble Crochet Bag 2. Crochet Bobble Sheep 3. Small Animal Collection: Horse

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