Cursed Mr. Drippy

Have you met Mr. Drippy, Lord High Lord of the Fairies?

If you have, then no introduction is needed! Go find your hook and supplies and let’s get started!

If you have not had the pleasure, then let me introduce you just briefly. Mr. Drippy is a video game character from the game Ni No Kuni produced by Level-5. In the game, Drippy serves as the companion and guide to a young boy named Oliver.

Mr. Drippy is found in a cursed state as a doll banished from his own world by the Evil Dijnn, Shadar (This pattern is for the cursed form of Mr. Drippy). Oliver’s mother, Allie, gives Oliver this doll to comfort him while she’s away from home, and she later passes away from heart problems. Crying over the loss of his mother, Oliver’s tears land on his doll, restoring Mr. Drippy back to his original fairy state.

Mr. Drippy and Oliver then embark on a quest to explore their parallel worlds, that of Motorville and Ni No Kuni where characters appear in both worlds but with different roles. The hope is that Oliver can become a master magician and save this other world from Shadar while also bringing his mother back to his world.

If you would like you can learn more about the story from this video.

Honestly, I want to make all the characters in crochet form when I see a game as cute as this! I decided to start with Cursed Mr. Drippy because it’s been a long time request from my husband and since his birthday was coming up I thought it would be the perfect way to surprise him.

Update: The pattern for Mr. Drippy in his original fairy state is now on the blog as well! You can find that pattern HERE!

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An Important Note About Fan Art

I enjoy making and appreciate the craft of fan art. I love seeing what creators of all mediums come up with and share. Fan art is what got me back into crocheting after a long hiatus and has been a personal stress relief and lifesaver over the years. That said, I also strongly value the copyright of these licensed characters. While, as fans, we may create them because we love, admire, and appreciate them, it is very important that we recognize that the patterns and finished items should only be used for personal use, gift-giving, and spreading kindness not to sell or gain profit.

Unlike my other patterns, the fan art pieces I share will NEVER have a printable PDF option, free or paid.

Cursed Mr. Drippy is a character from the video game design company Level-5. I in no way have any rights to this character. This piece is strictly fan art, my individual interpretation of this character in crochet form. My work is unofficial and has no connection with the creators in any way. If you are the copyright holder of this character and would prefer that this fan art piece be removed, please contact me and I will be glad to honor your wishes.

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner to Intermediate

This pattern requires some optional surface crochet stitching, hand stitching, and making several i-cords. You can learn how to make an I-Cord here!

Alternatives to the I-Cord can be found within the pattern.

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) hook 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Tapestry Needle
• Pins
• 2- Red Buttons (1.5 inches/38 mm, or desired size)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing
• Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g), Color (A) Gold, less than 1 skein, Color (B) Skipper Blue (>See Design Note below), less than 1 skein, Color (C) Bright Yellow, less than 1 skein, Color (D) Carrot, less than 1 skein, Color (E) Lemon, less than 1 skein, Color (F) Cornmeal, less than 1 skein, Color (G) Coffee, less than 1 skein Color (H) Soft Navy, less than 1 skein

>Design Note: Color (B) Skipper Blue happened to be a skein that I had in my collection, but is unfortunately no longer available. I would use Red Heart Super Saver in Delft Blue as a substitute. They are very similar in color. Delft Blue is just slightly lighter.

Gauge

Exact gauge is not essential to this project, but tension should be maintained.

Finished Measurements

Cursed Mr. Drippy measures approximately 8.75 inches (22 cm) tall sitting (not including the legs) and is approximately 19.5 inches (49.5 cm) in circumference at the widest point.

Design Notes

• This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. I chose to use a size E crochet hook. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing to show through. If a different-sized hook works better for you, then by all means, use it! Do note, however, that if you change the hook size or the type of yarn you are using, this will have an effect on the size and look of your finished item.
• This pattern is written in rounds. The i-cords are made in rows.
• It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and to move it up as you start each additional round.
• At the end of each round, I will note in parenthesis how many stitches you should have once completed.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• ch – Chain
• i-cord (see special stitches below)
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Rows – Rows
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (I use the invisible decrease when working in the Rnd and a regular decrease when working in Rows)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• surface crochet (optional)
• [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

i-cord  (learn how to make an i-cord here)
surface crochet (optional) – there will be some pictures to help if you’ve never used this technique before, but not an extensive tutorial

Head/Body

The head and the body are created as one piece. We will be starting at the top of the head.

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (54sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (60sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (66sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 10sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (72sts)
• Rnds 13-23: Sc in each st around (72sts for 11 rounds)
• Rnd 24: [Sc in the next 11sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (78sts)
• Rnds 25-26: Sc in each st around (78sts for 2 rounds)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 12sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (84sts)
• Rnds 28-29: Sc in each st around (84sts for 2 rounds)

Switch to Color (B)

Stuff firmly and shape as you go.

>Design Tip: When changing colors in the round you will get what is referred to as a jog or a stair step where the two colors change. This jog is easy to see and not usually desirable.

I typically design my patterns so the color change will be in the back of the piece (as is the case with Cursed Mr. Drippy) but this isn’t always possible, and there’s an easy way to make the jog far less noticeable, so let me share this technique with you so that you can apply it to making other amigurumi in the future as well!

There are a few ways to make the jog less noticeable, but perhaps the easiest way is to prepare to change colors as you normally would in the round but when you go to make the first stitch in the new color instead of making a sc, make a sl st and then continue on with the pattern as written.

The sl st still counts as the first stitch so you’ll work back into it in the next round as the pattern directs, but by starting out with the sl st you significantly reduce the jogging/stair step look. Hope this tip was helpful!

• Rnd 30: Sl st (counts as a st), sc in each st around (84sts)
• Rnd 31: Sc in each st around (84sts)
• Rnd 32: [Sc in the next 13sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (90sts)
• Rnds 33-35: Sc in each st around (90sts for 3 rounds)
• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 14sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (96sts)
• Rnds 37-46: Sc in each st around (96sts for 10 rounds)
• Rnd 47: [Sc in the next 14sc, sc2tog] 6 times (90sts)
• Rnd 48: Sc in each st around (90sts)
• Rnd 49: [Sc in the next 13sc, sc2tog] 6 times (84sts)
• Rnd 50: Sc in each st around (84sts)
• Rnd 51: [Sc in the next 12sc, sc2tog] 6 times (78sts)
• Rnd 52: [Sc in the next 11sc, sc2tog] 6 times (72sts)
• Rnd 53: [Sc in the next 10sc, sc2tog] 6 times (66sts)
• Rnd 54: [Sc in the next 9sc, sc2tog] 6 times (60sts)
• Rnd 55: [Sc in the next 8sc, sc2tog] 6 times (54sts)
• Rnd 56: [Sc in the next 7sc, sc2tog] 6 times (48sts)
• Rnd 57: [Sc in the next 6sc, sc2tog] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 58: [Sc in the next 5sc, sc2tog] 6 times (36sts)

>Design Tip: Continue to stuff and shape right up until you close your final hole. Use your chopstick to add stuffing as your hole gets smaller.

• Rnd 59: [Sc in the next 4sc, sc2tog] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 60: [Sc in the next 3sc, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 61: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 62: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
• Rnd 63: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
• Sl st, fasten off. Leave a tail for sewing up the hole.

>Design Tip: When closing your hole, thread your tapestry needle with your yarn tail and work through only the front loops to close up the hole. Once closed tie off and weave in the remaining tail.

Beak

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (8sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (10sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (12sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 5sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (14sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 6sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (16sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 7sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (18sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 8sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (20sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 9sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (22sts)
• Rnds 10-11: Sc in each st around (22sts for 2 rounds)
• Rnd 12: [Sc] 2 times, [2sc in the next sc, sc in the next sc] 2 times, [sc] 16 times (24sts)
• Rnds 13-14: Sc in each st around (24sts for 2 rounds)

Shape and stuff firmly as you go.

• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 11sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (26sts)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 12sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (28sts)
• Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 13sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (30sts)
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 14sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (32sts)
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 15sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (34sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around (34sts)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 16sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (36sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around (36sts)
• Sl st, fasten off. Leave a tail long enough to attach the beak to the face.

Balls for the Arms and Legs

Using Color (D)

• Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (10sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in the next sc] 5 times (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 5 times (20sts)
• Rnds 5-7: Sc in each st around (20sts for 3 rounds)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 5 times (15sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 5 times (12sts)
• Stuff firmly and continue to stuff right until closing up your hole.
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the last sc (7sts)
• Sl st, fasten off. Leave a tail for sewing up the hole.

>Design Tip: When closing your hole, thread your tapestry needle with your yarn tail and work through only the front loops to close up the hole. Once closed tie off and weave in the remaining tail.

Surface Stitching on Your Ball

Using Color (D)

This step is totally optional. I wanted to have the ridge on the ball like you see in the game and pictures. I spent an unusual amount of time working on this to get it just right, trying various techniques such as the camel stitch. I liked the way they looked but didn’t love them. I wanted a more pronounced ridge and by golly, I was going to get it! I was finally able to get the look I wanted by holding two strands together at the same time and surface crocheting on each ball. I just used one skein of yarn and held one tail from the center and one from the outside together.

Leave a slightly longer tail (say 5-6 inches/13-15 cm) at the start to do a little sewing at the end. I started the stitches between round 5 and 6 on the ball.

About halfway through you are going to want to move your surface stitching up one row and then continue on this new line. Reason being, that the ball is created in a spiral. If you continue to follow the first line it would spiral downwards. By going up about halfway through the beginning and end stitch line up and the adjustment is barely noticeable.

Once you have surface crochet along the entire circumference of the ball there will be a small gap. Use your tapestry needle and the beginning and ending tails to match your stitches as close as possible.

Arms and Legs

Arms

Make 2
(learn how to make an i-cord here)
Using Color (F)
Leave a longer starting and ending tail.

• Ch 4

>Design Tip: In the next part work into the back bar of the sts as directed. This will make for a more professional looking i-cord by making the base flat.

• Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, [insert hook into next ch, yarn over and draw up a loop] 2 times (4 loops on hook)
• Row 1: Carefully drop 3 loops from hook. Holding onto the dropped loops with your non-dominant hand (the one not holding the hook) so they don’t come undone when you do the next part, ch1, insert hook into the closest dropped loop to the hook, ch 1 (2 loops on hook), insert hook into the next dropped loop, ch 1 (3 loops on hook), insert hook into the final dropped loop, ch1.
• Rows 2-12: Repeat Row 1
• Finish your i-cord by slip stitching through each loop on the hook. Described: With four loops on the hook, yarn over, draw through the first loop (still 4 loops on hook, but one is the new working yarn), yarn over, draw through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through last two loops on the hook, cut yarn keeping a tail long enough to stitch the first and last sl st together (to keep a tubular shape) and to attach the tail to the body.

>Design Note: An alternative way of ending your i-cord is to yarn over and pull through all four loops at once, cut your yarn (leaving the extra length for stitching to the body), and fasten off. This method, however, will draw the end to a slight point. Arguably, the point may not be noticed once attached to the body. You decide what you like better!

Legs

Make 2
(learn how to make an i-cord here)
Using Color (F)
Leave a longer starting and ending tail.

• Ch 4

>Design Tip: In the next part work into the back bar of the sts as directed. This will make for a more professional looking i-cord by making the base flat.

• Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, [insert hook into next ch, yarn over and draw up a loop] 2 times (4 loops on hook)
• Row 1: Carefully drop 3 loops from hook. Holding onto the dropped loops with your non-dominant hand (the one not holding the hook) so they don’t come undone when you do the next part, ch1, insert hook into the closest dropped loop to the hook, ch 1 (2 loops on hook), insert hook into the next dropped loop, ch 1 (3 loops on hook), insert hook into the final dropped loop, ch1.
• Rows 2-17: Repeat Row 1
• Finish your i-cord by slip stitching through each loop on the hook. Described: With four loops on the hook, yarn over, draw through the first loop (still 4 loops on hook, but one is the new working yarn), yarn over, draw through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through last two loops on the hook, cut yarn keeping a tail long enough to stitch the first and last sl st together (to keep a tubular shape) and to attach the tail to the body.

>Design Note: An alternative way of ending your i-cord is to yarn over and pull through all four loops at once, cut your yarn (leaving the extra length for stitching to the body), and fasten off. This method, however, will draw the end to a slight point. Arguably, the point may not be noticed once attached to the body. You decide what you like better!

Arm and Leg Alternative to the I-Cord

There are a couple ways to go about making the arms and legs. I offer the variations because the i-cords are the widest that I suggest going for an i-cord and can thus be a bit fiddly. Ultimately, however, my favorite look is that of the i-cord and I think well worth taking the time to make it work. You can find more about making an i-cord here if you need more help.

If you are really struggling with the i-cord you could choose to work in a tube instead. I’d attempt trying to work 4 sc in the round, and if this is still too difficult, 5 sc in the round. For reference, my i-cord arms measure approximately 2.5 inches (6.35 cm) in length and my i-cord legs measure approximately 3.5 inches (8.89 cm) in length.

Arm and Leg Assembly

Adding Tassels to the Balls

Using Color (F), cut 10 – 7 inch (18 cm) lengths of yarn for each ball, so 40 strands total. Holding 2 strands together at a time loop them into the center bottom of the ball. Repeat for all balls.

Stitch one eye cord to the top center of one of the balls and repeat for all four pieces. Now find the desired placement and attach the arms and legs to the body.

Hand Embroidery

Using Color (G), I started with the straight line that goes over the top of the head on the gold portion.  I used the back stitch to make this line, starting at the back of my piece, stitching over 2 rows with each stitch until I got to the last stitch and then there was only one row left to work over.

Once the straight line was completed I then made the crossing lines. I made my lines between each of the back stitches, so 2 rows apart with the first stitch being only one row up from the blue part of the body. The length of my hand embroidered stitches was the length of 2 stitches on the head with one being on either side of the straight line you created over the top of the head.

For the vertical stitching around the body, I also worked in the Color (G) yarn. I used a double thickness of yarn and made my stitches approximately 3 stitches apart on the body between and 4 stitches tall, two being in the area of the gold and two being in the area of the blue. I also paid attention to center these vertical stitches with the other stitching done previously on the head in both the front and the back of the body.

More Assembly

Once you have completed all of the hand embroideries determine the placement of the beak. I recommend pinning it in place. Remember to add more stuffing as you go and even more right before closing up the gap. Determine where you would like the eyes to be and attach them using Color (H).

>Design Note: I searched for a while to find buttons that were large, two-holed and had a lip on the top of the button as depicted in the game for the Mr. Drippy character. I was close several times, but never successful at finding the exact pair I wanted. In the end, I created a pair out of polymer clay to my desired specifications. Purchased buttons will work just as well.

Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Small Animal Collection: Elephant 2. Simple Amigurumi Penguin 3. Small Animal Collection: Horse

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**Because this is fan art of a copyrighted character I cannot give you permission to sell products you’ve made using my pattern. It is for personal use only. You are welcome to share my photos and patterns on social media as long as you do so by using only 1-2 pictures and provide a link directly to my blog post for the pattern. A printable PDF option will NEVER be made available. You may not copy, republish, sell, distribute, translate without permission, or claim my photos, tutorials, or patterns as your own in any way. ** Thank you!