Crochet Turkey Gnome

Get ready to be delighted in your Thanksgiving and fall celebrations as the Crochet Turkey Gnome struts his stuff in your home. His festive colors and pilgrim’s hat make him perfectly dressed for the party and ready to entertain guests.

But Wait, There’s More!

There’s another fun option as well. As I was making the Crochet Turkey Gnome I quickly realized that I had to make a regular crochet turkey version too. The best thing is that it’s so easily done. Omit the hat, add the eyes and an adorable tuft of feathers to the head, and wallah, you also have a Crochet Turkey Friend! Choose your favorite, or better yet, make them both! Happy Crocheting!

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Turkey Gnome and his Crochet Turkey Friend or scroll down to the bottom to find the free patterns.

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The Inspiration

Anyone who knows Jen Hayes Creations, or spends any time navigating through the site, quickly discovers that while I love creating all things amigurumi, gnomes have found their way again and again into the pattern collection. Seriously, the to-make list for these guys is long and ever-expanding. Needless to say, there will be more!

This year my heart has been extra set on designing for the holidays and I’m so excited to bring you the Crochet Turkey Gnome! His plump body is adorned with a strut of colorfully festive “feathers” that are surprisingly easy to create. His adorable pilgrim’s hat with a band and buckle completes his ensemble. And just saying, because options are fun, the hat makes a great stand-alone decor item as well!

And, on the topic of options, as I was making him I couldn’t help but think how easy it would be for me to change just a few things in the pattern to give you the option to make him a Crochet Turkey Friend too. So I did. You’re welcome! His friend is more your traditional amigurumi turkey, not gnome-like at all, but guaranteed they’re both adorable options and I hope you enjoy making both of them.

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The Yarn

The Crochet Turkey Gnome and his Crochet Turkey Friend were both made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft, a lighter worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles. I used several for this design.

For their bodies, I chose to go with a tweed variation from the Simply Soft line in the color Taupe. The small, colorful flecks scattered throughout tweed yarn make adding depth, texture, and visual intrigue super easy to do. I feel that it also adds a bit of rustic charm. I love tweed yarns, especially when designing animals.

That said, if tweed isn’t available or preferred, then a solid brown would make a great substitution. In the solid colors, I would recommend Taupe, yes, the same name just in the solid version, not the Tweed. This will keep your turkey in the same color tones as those I used but without the detail of the flecks. For a more vibrant brown, the color Chocolate in the Simply Soft Solids line would also be a good option, but it will obviously change the overall color appearance.

For a good idea of what they’ll look like in a solid brown take a look at the miniature versions made from a size 10 solid brown crochet thread. See, so cute too!

The hat also uses another specialty variation in the Simply Soft line, called the Heathers. I used the color Charcoal Heather. Again, love the soft, multi-toned color effect that heathered yarn offers. It too, like the tweed, adds a rustic look that’s not overwhelming and is pleasing to the eye.

Honestly, I also used it because I don’t typically use stark black in my work if I can help it, and this line doesn’t have another deep grey option. That said, a solid black can also work as a substitute. In fact, in the miniature version, I couldn’t find a deep enough grey so I used black crochet thread for the hat, so take a look at that if you’d like an idea of how it might turn out.

For the rest of the colors in both the crochet Turkey Gnome and The Crochet Turkey Friend, I used classic solids in the colors Gold, Pumpkin, and Autumn Red with a bit of Taupe for the hat band. They’re certainly all fun fall colors, but your turkeys can be any color you might imagine. I’m excited to see what you’ll create!

Yarn Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Turkey Gnome and his Crochet Turkey Friend but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. You can see the miniature version of both turkeys in some of the images. They were made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread.

Making the turkeys with other yarn sizes has not been tested, but should also likely work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Safety eyes, 12 mm (optional)
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (B) Gold, used approx. 49 yds/45 m, Color (C) Pumpkin, used approx. 35 yds/32 m, Color (D) Autumn Red, used approx. 8 yds/7 m, Color (F) Taupe, used approx. 20 yds/18 m
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (E) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 60 yds/55 m
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Tweeds (worsted 4-Medium,  97% acrylic, 3% viscose, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (A) Taupe, used approx. 145 yds/132.6 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the head measure approx. 2 inches (5.1 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn the Crochet Turkey Gnome and the Crochet Turkey Friend measures approx. 8 inches (20 cm) tall in the sitting position.
• The miniature Turkey Gnome and Turkey Friend shown in some of the images is made using a 1.50 mm hook and size 10 crochet thread. It measures approx. 4 inches (10 cm) tall in the sitting position.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• For reference when placing eyes and other facial features the starting stitch is at the back of the work.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
• Caution! If using safety eyes, take into consideration who will be using the item. The use of safety eyes is not recommended for children under the age of three or for those prone to putting things in their mouths as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand-embroidered eyes are a great alternative!
• The miniature Crochet Turkey Gnome and Crochet Turkey Friend in the images were made using Size 10 crochet thread and a 1.50 mm hook. The same pattern is used with a minor change: use 4 mm eyes if applicable. They measure approx. 4 inches (10 cm) tall in the sitting position.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• approx.  – approximately
• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loops only
• ch – chain
• ch-sp – chain space
• dc – double crochet
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• hdc – half double crochet
• inc – increase
• invisible finish
• MR – magic ring (AKA magic circle, adjustable ring)
• rep – repeat
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• RS – right side
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
• sk – skip
• sl st – slip stitch
• standing sc – standing single crochet
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• tog – together
• WS – wrong side
• yo – yarn over 
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as many times as directed
• * – repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed
• * * – repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed 

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Turkey Gnome!

>Design Note: Two styles of turkeys can be made using the same pattern. The Crochet Turkey Gnome features a pilgrim’s hat pulled down over the beak, and the Crochet Turkey Friend features eyes and a tuft of feathers on the head. All parts are made the same throughout except for the split variations noted after Rnd 41 on the body, and the insertion of the eyes for the Crochet Turkey Friend.

Body

Make 1

Using Color (A) 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts) 
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 4sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 5sts. (72sts)
• Rnds 13-17: Sc in each st around. (72sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 5sts. (66sts)
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 4sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnds 22-35: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 14 Rnds)
• Rnd 36: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 7 times, sc in the next 2sts. (40sts)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)

If making the Crochet Turkey Friend, insert the safety eyes. The suggested placement is between Rnds 32 and 33, 7sts apart.

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 38: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 7 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 40: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 41: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• If making the Crochet Turkey Gnome: Fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.
• If making the Crochet Turkey Friend: Do not fasten off, but continue below to make the feathers on the top of the head.

Making the Feathers on Top of the Head

• Rnd 42: *ch 8, working in the back bars: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, on the main body, In FLO: sl st in the next st, * rep from * to * 7 more times, finishing with a sl st in the same st. (8 feathers)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching through the unused back loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.

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Feet 

>Design Note: Each foot is made by making three toes that are joined together to create the foot, followed by the leg.

Toes

Middle Toe

Make 2, one for each foot

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2-6: Sc in each st around. (6sts for 5 Rnds)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for later stitching. Leave the st marker in the first st for later reference when joining.
• Firmly stuff and shape the toe.

Left and Right Toes

Make 4, two for each foot. 

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The first toe of each foot should be fastened off. The second will remain attached to join the toes together.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2-5: Sc in each st around. (6sts for 4 Rnds)
• If the first toe, fasten off leaving a long tail for later stitching. Leave the st marker in the first st for later reference when joining for both toes.
• If the second toe, continue to join the toes together.
• Firmly stuff and shape the toe.

Join the Toes Together

>Design Note: In the next Rnd, the toes will be joined together. Make sure to keep the tails of the first and middle toe on the outside of the work so they are accessible for later stitching. 

• Rnd 1: Join the Middle Toe to the 2nd Toe: With the working loop still on the hook insert the hook into the first st of the middle toe (has a st marker in it) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (mark this st as the new starting st), sc in the next 2sts on the middle toe (if helpful, mark the next st for later joining), Join the 1st Toe: with the working loop still on the hook insert the hook into the first st of the toe (has a st marker in it) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (remove this st marker), sc in the next 5sts around this toe, Join Back to the Middle Toe: sc in the closest unworked st of the middle toe (possibly marked earlier) and in the next 2sts, Join Back to the 2nd Toe: with the working loop still on the hook insert the hook into the first st of the toe (has a st marker in it) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (remove this st marker), sc in the next 5sts. (18sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

• Use the tail from the 1st and middle toe and a tapestry needle to stitch the gaps between the toes. 

>Design Note & Tip: The next Rnd will use chains to create the hole that will be used later to make the leg. The first ch is the new starting st. Don’t work the chains too tightly as they will be worked into later.

• Rnd 5: Ch 3, sk 3, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)

>Design Note: In the next Rnd, when working in the 3 ch make sure to work into the ch and not the ch-sp as the back bars will be used when making the leg. If it helps to identify them, mark these 3 back bars for later. Also, after working into the 3 ch sts the next st sometimes seems to “hide.” Watch for this if the st count is off.

• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 3ch, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (10sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the foot and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. Additional stuffing can also be added through the hole once the foot is completed.

• Rnd 7: [Sc2tog] 5 times. (5sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.

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Leg

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The leg is made using the 3sts skipped in Rnd 5, the back bars marked in Rnd 6, and the spaces between these 2 groups of sts on each side.

• Rnd 1: With the toes facing away, fasten onto the far right back bar with a standing sc (mark this as the first st), sc in the next 2 back bars, sc in the space/edge between the back bars and the next st, sc in the next 3sts (those skipped in Rnd 5 when making the foot), sc in the space/edge before reaching the first st. (8sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the leg and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnd 2-11: Sc in each st around. (8sts for 10 Rnds) 
• Rnd 12: Sc in the next 4sts, Switch to Color (A): sc in the next 4sts. (8sts)
• Rnds 13-15: Sc in each st around. (8sts for 3 Rnds)

After this point leave the leg unstuffed. 

• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next st. (16sts)
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (20sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts, leave the remaining 3sts unworked. (20sts)
• Press the top edge of the leg flat so the edges are perpendicular to the foot and the sts line up. The final st of Rnd 20 should leave the working st at the right edge of the work (add or remove sts as needed). Sc the edges together. (11sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the leg to the body. 

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Beak

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (8sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (10sts)
• Rnds 4-6: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 2sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 2sts, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts. (16sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts. (18sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the beak to the body. 

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Snood

Make 1

Using Color (D)

>Design Note: The snood is not stuffed.

• Rnd 1: 5sc in MR. (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (10sts)
• Rnds 3-4: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (8sts)
• Rnds 6-7: Sc in each st around. (8sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (7sts)
• Rnds 9-10: Sc in each st around. (7sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 11: Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts. (6sts)
• Rnds 12-13: Sc in each st around. (6sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (5sts)
• Rnds 15-16: Sc in each st around. (5sts for 2 Rnds) 
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitch the snood to the body. 

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Wings

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 5sc in MR. (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in next 3sts, sc in the next st. (8sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next st. (11sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 2sts. (14sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (17sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (20sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (23sts)

Adding the Feathers to the Wing

In the next Rnd, when switching colors, cut Color (A) with an extra long tail to stitch the wing together and stitch it to the body. 

• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 9sts, Switch to Color (C), In FLO: sl st in the next 2sts, *ch 4, working in the back bars: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, on the main wing, In FLO: sl st in the next 2sts,* repeat from * to * 5 more times, In FLO: sl st in the next 2sts, fasten off. (6 feathers)

>Design Note: The next Rnd is worked in the remaining unused front loops of the wing. There is no need to continue using a st marker.

• Rnd 9: Using Color (B): In FLO: fasten on in the same st as the last st, *ch 6, working in the back bars: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, In FLO: sl st in the next 2sts,* rep from * to * 3 more times, ch 6, working in the back bars: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, sl st in the next st. (5 feathers)
• Fasten off and weave in the Color (B) and (C) ends into the inside center of the wing. Otherwise, the wing is not stuffed. 

Stitch the Wings Together

• Flatten the wing so that Color (C) feathers are on one side and Color (B) feathers are on the other.
• With the long tail of Color (A) and using the unused back loops, stitch the open portion of the wing between the feathers closed, then weave the tail to the top of the wing to attach the wing to the body. >Design Note: When placed on the body, the wings are directional so “the top” will be on opposite sides.

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Tail Feathers/Strut

>Did you know?: When a male turkey fans out his tail to attract hens, encourage courtship and breeding, and establish dominance this is called a strut.

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: In BLO: Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts) Mark the unused front loop of the first st for later reference.
• Rnd 5: In BLO: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: In BLO: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: In BLO: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: In BLO: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts) 
• Rnd 9: In BLO: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 10: In BLO: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 4sts. (60sts) 
• Rnd 11: In BLO: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 12: In BLO: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 5sts. (72sts)
• Rnd 13: In BLO: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (78sts) 

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 14: In BLO: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 6sts. (84sts)
• Rnd 15: In BLO: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (90sts) 
• Rnd 16: In BLO: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 7sts. (96sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 17: In BLO: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (102sts) Mark the unused front loop of the first st for later reference.
• Rnd 18: In BLO: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 8sts. (108sts) 
• Rnd 19: In BLO: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (114sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 20: In BLO: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 18sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 9sts. (120sts) 
• Rnd 21: In BLO: [Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (126sts)
• Rnd 22: In BLO: Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in next st, [sc in the next 20sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 10sts. (132sts)

Create the Top Scalloped Edge

• Row 1: (RS) Fold the piece in half so the working st is at the right center of the fold, with the sts aligning at the front and back. Sc the sts tog across. (66sts) >Design Note: 66sts must be achieved for the next row to work. To ensure this is the case, make sure when aligning the sts to start with the very first and the very last st.

• Row 2: (WS) Turn, *sk 2sts, 5dc in next st, sk 2sts, sc in the next st. Repeat from * across. (11 scallops)
• Fasten off and weave in the end.

Add the Second Scalloped Edge

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The scallops are worked from right to left over the arch.

• Row 1: (RS) Fasten on with a sl st in the previously marked st from Rnd 17, *sk 2sts, 5dc in next st, sk 2sts, sc in the next st.  Repeat from * across in the unused front loops. (8 scallops)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Adding Feathers to the Tail/Strut

The feathers are added to the bottom back of the piece, working back and forth, over the bottom 4 Rnds of front loop sts (starting from right to left over the arch), on the same side as the second scalloped edge.

Using Color (A)

• Row 1: (RS) Fasten on with a sl st in the first st of unworked front loops closest to the base of the tail (previously marked with a st marker), *ch 6, working in the back bars: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, sl st in the next 2sts, * rep from * to *  to the other side of the half circle. >Design Note: If it makes sense to only make 1 sl st at the end of a Row make this adjustment throughout. (5 feathers)

>Design Tip: When working back and forth, insert the hook into the st in whatever direction makes the most sense to make the feathers for that Row.

• Rows 2-4: (RS) Sl st into the first st of the next row (above where the last st was made), rep Row 1 from * to * working in the opposite direction of the previous Row. (6, 7, 9 feathers)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the tail/strut to the body. Weave in the starting tail.

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Pilgrim’s Hat

Make 1 – For the Crochet Turkey Gnome, not used for the Crochet Turkey Friend

Using Color (E)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: BLO: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (39sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (39sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (42sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. (42sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (45sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in each st around. (45sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times, sc in the next 7sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (51sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (51sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in each st around. (54sts)
• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (57sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in each st around. (57sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 18sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times, sc in the next 9sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
• Rnd 24: [Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (63sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in each st around. (63sts)
• Rnd 26: In FLO: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 8 times, sc in the next 3sts. (72sts)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 9 times. (81sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times, sc in the next 4sts. (90sts)
• Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 9 times. (99sts)
• Rnd 30: Sl st in each st around. (99sts)
• Fasten off with a long tail, and use the invisible finish. Weave the tail up to Rnd 25 (above the brim) for later stitching the hat to the body.

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Hat Band

Make 1 – For the Turkey Gnome, not used for the Turkey Friend

Using Color (F) 

The Hat Band is worked in rows. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row.

• Ch 60

Place the top hat on the body so it’s pulled down, resting on the beak, and then ensure that the chain can go all the way around the hat close to the brim with about a 1-2 ch overlap. Add or remove chains if needed. 

• Row 1: In the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (59sts) 
• Row 2: Turn, sc in each st across. (59sts) 

Check to see that the hat band still fits appropriately around the hat. It should be pretty taught with the ends able to touch so they can later be seamed together.

• Row 3: Turn, sc in each st across. (59sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming the hat band together and stitching the band to the hat. Weave in the starting tail.

Making the Buckle on the Hat Band

Using Color (B)

• Step 1: Find the front center of the hat band by folding it in half. Insert the hook with the working yarn two sts to the right of the center stitch to begin making the buckle.
• Step 2: Sc in the next 5sts,
• Step 3: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout), rotate the work 180 degrees, and surface crochet up the hat band for 4sts to create one side of the buckle (The first surface st is placed in the same st as the last sc and the last surface st will be into the other edge of the hat band. Also, note that the working yarn will be underneath the hat band when working the surface sts.),

• Step 4: Ch 1, sc in the same st as the last surface crochet st and in the next 4sts along the edge of the hat band,

• Step 5: ch 1, rotate the work 180 degrees and surface crochet up the hat band for 4sts to create the other side of the buckle (The first surface st is placed in the same st as the last sc, and the last surface st will be into the other edge of the hat band meeting up with the first sc in Step 1, completing all four sides of the buckle. 
• Step 6: Ch 1, fasten off using the invisible finish. Weave in the ends.

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Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Turkey Gnome/Turkey Friend and stitch securely in place. 

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Beak: Flatten the beak with the 3sc inc on the sides. Bend the tip downward, with the starting st at the bottom of the beak. Stitch the beak to the body with the bottom at approx. Rnds 26-27 and the top between approx. Rnds 31-32 of the body. If making the Crochet Turkey Friend, also center the beak between the eyes and ensure that the snood has enough space to rest right under the eye. Optional: Add a bit of stuffing to the back portion of the beak (for approx. the top 3 Rnds) right before closing the hole, ensuring that the tip can maintain a bent shape. 

• Snood: Twist and manipulate the snood until a desired shape is achieved and center the top part over the beak. Stitch at the skinniest end and for 5-6 Rnds along the length of the edge closest to the eye to secure it next to the beak and under the eye. The snood can hang along either side of the beak as preferred. Pictured it’s on the right.

• Legs: Stitch the legs side by side on the bottom front of the body, centered with the face. The point where the top of the legs touch in the middle rests at approx. Rnd 6. Stitch along the top and down each of the sides for approx. 3 Rnds. 

• Tail/Strut: Pin the tail/strut to the body with the bottom centered at the back of the body at approx. Rnd 11. >Design Tip: Using the top scallops can help to ensure that the tail is centered, with 5 scallops on either side and the middle scallop centered with the facial features. Attach along the entire bottom in the first Color (A) section of the tail and then in the arch in the same section, tacking it in several places to secure it to the body. The rest of the tail remains loose. 

• Wings: Place the top flat portion of the wings at approx. Rnds 23-24 of the body and approx. 6sts away from the edge of the beak on either side, with the feathers sitting at the back. >Stitching Options: Stitch only along the top edge for more outstretched wings. For wings that rest against the body more, stitch along both sides of Color (A) to secure the entire V portion of the wing.

• Hat (for the Crochet Turkey Gnome): Pull the hat down over the body to cover the top of the snood and beak. Use the tail to tack the hat to the body in several places just above the brim. >Design Note: After stitching, the brim at the back of the hat will bend up due to the tail, but this isn’t visible from the front.
• Hat Band (for the Crochet Turkey Gnome): Place the hat band around the hat, resting above the brim with the buckle centered with the beak, and stitch the ends together, ensuring the band is not twisted. Then proceed to tack the band in several places along the hat to secure it.  

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!