Introducing, Crochet Stitch!
"Ohana means family. Family means nobody get's left behind or forgotten."
– Lilo and Stitch
It’s been a couple of months since my last post, so you may have been wondering if I’d forgotten you.
Rest assured, I most definitely did not! The summer months just threw life into a bit of a whirlwind. With school being out the kids are home and this means more grand adventures and everyone needing mom more.
My moments of downtime are still most often crochet times though and I’m excited to share several projects with you over the next few weeks!
Be patient with me as I put all the finishing touches on the designs and patterns. They’re on their way and they’re so much fun!
Today I’m so excited to be sharing the pattern for Stitch with you! You can read all about my inspiration and the yarn I used or scroll down past this where you’ll find the free pattern!
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The Inspiration
Do you have more than one W.I.P. going on at a time and a long list of items that you’re dying to make? If so then we are definitely in the same boat and I’m glad to have such good company!
Stitch has been one of those items that has been on my To Make List for quite some time…….years even.
Yikes! You know, there truly isn’t enough time in the day to make everything on the list happen. And in all honesty, I know that I’ll die with it being incomplete because it’s always growing…..but one must try!
Then it happened. In May the perfect opportunity came when Ilaria Caliri with Airali Design hosted the #AmiguruMAY challenge on Instagram.
Anyone who wanted could join in. And since amigurumi is a favorite subject of mine I thought, Why not? This should be fun!
Each day was accompanied by a prompt that those choosing to participate would interpret however they chose and then share a related picture in their Instagram feed.
When I saw that the prompt for Day 28 was “Fave Stitch” I knew that it was time to finally bump Stitch to the top of the To Make List!
Sure I could have just shared how fabulous I think single crochet is for all the magic that it does for making amigurumi, but who doesn’t love a fun pun as well. My “Fave Stitch” Instagram picture had to be of Stitch himself!
Well, I was able to get the design all made and pinned together before May 28th so that Stitch could be previewed that day on my Instagram feed but I didn’t quite have all the details of the pattern worked out to also share him on the blog.
He’s ready now though and I’m so excited to share him with you!
The Yarn
For this design, I kept it simple and utilized some of the Red Heart Super Saver yarn that I had in my stash.
When using acrylic yarn for my amigurumi projects Red Heart is definitely one of my go-to yarns because of its wide variety of color options.
The Pattern
An Important Note About Fan Art
I enjoy making and appreciate the craft of fan art. I love seeing what creators of all mediums come up with and share.
Fan art is what got me back into crocheting after a long hiatus and has been a personal stress relief and lifesaver over the years. That said, I also strongly value the copyright of these licensed characters.
While, as fans, we may create them because we love, admire, and appreciate them, it is very important that we recognize that the patterns and finished items should only be used for personal use, gift-giving, and spreading kindness not to sell or gain profit.
Unlike my other patterns, the fan art pieces I share will NEVER have a printable PDF option, free or paid.
Stitch is a character from the film Lilo & Stitch produced by Walt Disney Feature Animation and released by Walt Disney Pictures.
I in no way have any rights to this character. This piece is strictly fan art, my individual interpretation of this character in crochet form.
My work is unofficial and has no connection with the creators in any way. If you are the copyright holder of this character and would prefer that this fan art piece be removed, please contact me and I will be glad to honor your wishes.
Difficulty
Intermediate. Pattern requires some color changing within the round, skipped stitches, bobble stitches, and atypical pattern increasing/decreasing and stitch counts within the design.
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Scissors
- Stuffing
- Tapestry Needle
- Pins
- Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing
- Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/ 333 m, 7 oz/198 g): Color (A) Delft Blue, used approx. 130 yds/ 119 m, Color (B) Light Blue, used approx. 21 yds/ 19 m, Color (C) Royal, used approx. 26 yds/ 24 m, Color (D) Light Raspberry, used approx. 18 yds/ 17m, Color (E) Black, used approx. 10 yds/ 9 m, Color (F) White, used approx. 2 yds/ 2 m
Gauge
Gauge is not necessarily essential to this project, but keep the tension tight enough to keep stuffing from showing through should be maintained.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) Stitch measures approximately 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) tall, not including his ears. With his ears straight up he’s approximately 8.5 inches (22 cm).
Design Notes
- The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
- The pattern is written in both rounds and rows, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. The portions of the pattern written in rows will be noted.
- At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
- Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
- Further design notes will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- bo -bobble (described below under special stitches)
- ch – Chain
- dc – double crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- Rnd(s) – Round(s)
- Rows – Rows
- sc – Single crochet
- sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (use the invisible decrease when working in the Rnd and a regular decrease when working in Rows)
- sl st – Slip stitch
- st(s) – Stitch(s)
- trbl – treble st
- [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
- magic circle/adjustable ring
Special Stitches
Bobble (bo): In this pattern, we will be using the 4dcbo (four double crochet bobble). Essentially it’s 4 half-finished double crochets all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as one stitch. And because that is all sorts of confusing, here are some directions! You create the bobble as follows:
With the original single loop on your hook from your previous stitch(es)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and pull through two of the loops
- Stop here! (two loops on your hook). If you were doing a full double crochet you would yarn over again and pull it through the final two loops to finish the dc, but with a bobble you stop halfway, leaving the extra loop on the hook. One “leg” of the bobble is complete.
Ok, now repeat steps 1-4, three more times, inserting the hook into the same stitch that you just worked into. Also, remember that each time you repeat the sequence you should have one more loop added to your hook (one more “leg” completed).
Now, yarn over and pull through all five of the loops on your hook. This closes your bobble stitch. Congratulations, you just made a bobble!
>Design Note: When making bobbles some patterns will have you make a chain after you have made the bobble to secure them even more. I DO NOT have you make this chain in the pattern, simply make your next stitch as directed in the pattern.
Let’s Make Stitch!
Body
Make 1
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (32sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (38sts)
- Rnd 7: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (44sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (50sts)
- Rnds 9-14: Sc in each st around. (50sts for 6Rnds)
- Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 10 times. (40sts)
- Rnds 16-18: Sc in each st around. (40sts for 3Rnds)
- Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 10 times. (30sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as you go.
- Rnds 20-24: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 5Rnds)
- Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnds 26-27: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2Rnds)
- Sl st, fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing the body to the head.
Head
Make 1
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (32sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (38sts)
- Rnd 7: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (44sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (50sts)
- Rnds 9-14: Sc in each st around. (50sts for 6Rnds)
- Rnd 15: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (44sts)
- Rnd 16: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (38sts)
>Design Note: For the next few Rnds you will be changing colors within the Rnd. I personally cut the yarn with each color change and tied the ends on the inside for added security.
- Rnd 17: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 2 times, Using Color (B): sc in the next 16sts, Using Color (A): [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (34sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the head and continue to do so as you go.
- Rnd 18: Using Color (A): [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts, Using Color (B): [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts, Using Color (A): [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (28sts)
- Rnd 19: Using Color (A): [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times, Using Color (B): sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts. (23sts)
- Rnd 20: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, Using Color (B): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st. (19sts)
- Rnd 21: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, Using Color (B): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (15sts)
- Rnd 22: Using Color (A): Sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st, Using Color (B): sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, Using Color (A): sc in the next st, sc2tog. (11sts)
- Rnd 23: Using Color (A): Sc in the next st, sc2tog, leave the remaining sts unworked. Sl st, fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the hole closed.
> Design Tip: I think hole closes more nicely if you close it with your tapestry needle working in the front loops only and work with your needle from the inside of the hole out in each stitch around until the hole is completely closed. Then tie off, bury your yarn end, and cut off any excess.
Nose
Make 1
Using Color (C)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
- Fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching the nose to the head.
Eyes
Make 2
Using Color (E)
- Rnd 1: 7hdc, dc, trbl, dc in adjustable (magic) circle. (10sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 7hdc, dc, trbl, dc in the 2nd chain from hook. (10sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, (hdc, dc, hdc) all in the next st, sc in the next st. (14sts)
Switch to Color (B)
- Rnd 3: slst in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [2hdc in the next st] 3 times, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, (hdc, dc) in the next st, (dc, hdc) in the next st, sc in the next st. (21sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the eye to the head.
Spot on the Eye
Make 2
Using Color (F)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the spot onto the eye. Weave in the beginning tail.
Tummy Patch
Make 1
Using Color (B)
>Design Note: You will be working in rows to make the tummy patch. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row.
- Ch 7
- Row 1: Working in the back bars of the chain sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. (6sts)
- Row 2: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the last st. (8sts)
- Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the last st. (10sts)
- Row 4: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the last st. (12sts)
- Rows 5-9: Sc in each st across. (12sts for 5 rows)
- Row 10: sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog. (10sts)
- Rows 11-12: Sc in each st across. (10sts for 2 rows)
- Row 13: sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
- Rows 14-15: Sc in each st across. (8sts for 2 rows)
- Row 16: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
- Rows 17-18: Sc in each st across. (6sts for 2 rows)
- Ch1 and sc around the entire outer edge of the tummy patch. There is no need to sc around the very top if you worked in the back bar of the beginning chain.
>Design Tip: If you find it difficult to nicely sc around any part of the tummy patch so it lays flat, try putting 2sc in the same st.
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the tummy patch to the body.
Right Arm
Make 1
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
>Design Note: In the next Rnd you will be making the claws and therefore switching colors back and forth. I personally carried the colors across, alternating between the two rather than cut them each time, but do what is easiest for you. If you cut the yarn each time you may wish to knot the ends on the inside for added security.
- Rnd 4: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 6sts, [Using Color (C): Ch4, now working in the back bars of the ch sc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in the next 2 chains, Using Color (A): Sc in the next 2sts] 4times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 4sts. (18sts + 4 claws)
Using Color (A) for the remainder of the piece:
- Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, [push the claw forward and sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, sc in the next 4sts. (18sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (16sts)
About Rnd 10 begin stuffing and shaping your arm and continue to do so as you go.
- Rnds 7-16: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 10Rnds)
- Rnd 17: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)
>Design Note: You will now begin working in Rows. The pattern numbering will continue to count up rather than starting over.
- Row 18: turn, ch1, sc in the next 11sts. (11sts)
- Row 19: turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog. (9sts)
- Row 20: turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog. (7sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.
Left Arm
Make 1
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
>Design Note: In the next Rnd you will be making the claws and therefore switching colors back and forth. I personally carried the colors across, alternating between the two rather than cut them each time, but do what is easiest for you. If you cut the yarn each time you may wish to knot the ends on the inside for added security.
- Rnd 4: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 6sts, [Using Color (C): Ch4, now working in the back bars of the ch sc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in the next 2 chains, Using Color (A): Sc in the next 2sts] 4times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 4sts. (18sts + 4 claws)
Using Color (A) for the remainder of the piece:
- Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, [push the claw forward and sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, sc in the next 4sts. (18sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (16sts)
About Rnd 10 begin stuffing and shaping your arm and continue to do so as you go.
- Rnds 7-16: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 10Rnds)
- Rnd 17: Sc in the next 11sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (11sts)
>Design Note: You will now begin working in Rows. The pattern numbering will continue to count up rather than starting over.
- Row 18: turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog. (9sts)
- Row 19: turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog. (7sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.
Right Leg
Make 1
Using Color (C)
>Design Note: When working the legs you will be working in both rounds and rows. When decreasing use the invisible decrease when working in Rnds and a regular decrease when working in Rows.
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Switch to Color (A)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
>Design Note: For the next row you will be alternating colors so watch for these noted changes. I personally carried the colors across, alternating between the two rather than cut them each time, but do what is easiest for you. If you cut the yarn each time you may wish to knot the ends on the inside for added security.
- Rnd 5: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 5sts, [Using Color (C): bo, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 7sts. (24sts)
Continue with Color (A) for the remainder of the leg
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in the next 9sts. (21sts)
- Rnds 7-14: Sc in each st around. (21sts for 8Rnds)
- Rnd 15: Sc in the next 2sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (2sts)
>Design Note: You will now begin working in Rows. The pattern numbering will continue to count up rather than starting over.
- Row 16: Turn, ch 1, sc in the next 13sts. (13sts)
- Row 17: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog. (11sts)
- Row 18: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog. (9sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.
- Firmly stuff and shape the leg.
Left Leg
Make 1
Using Color (C)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Switch to Color (A)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
>Design Note: For the next row you will be alternating colors so watch for these noted changes. I personally carried the colors across, alternating between the two rather than cut them each time, but do what is easiest for you. If you cut the yarn each time you may wish to knot the ends on the inside for added security.
- Rnd 5: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 5sts, [Using Color (C): bo, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 7sts. (24sts)
Continue with Color (A) for the remainder of the leg
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in the next 9sts. (21sts)
- Rnds 7-14: Sc in each st around. (21sts for 8Rnds)
- Rnd 15: Sc in the next 11sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (11sts)
>Design Note: You will now begin working in Rows.
- Row 16: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog. (11sts)
- Row 17: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog. (9sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.
- Firmly stuff and shape the leg.
Right Ear
Make 2, first the inner ear in Color (D) and then the outer ear in Color (A).
>Design Note: You will be working in rows to make the earpieces. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row.
- Ch 2
- Row 1: Working in the back bar of the chain 2sc in the 2nd ch from hook. (2sts)
- Row 2: 2sc in the next 2sts. (4sts)
- Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the last st. (6sts)
- Row 4: Sc in each st across. (6sts)
- Row 5: Sc in the next 4sts, leave the remaining 2sts unworked, ch3. (4sts + 3ch)
- Row 6: 2sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in the next ch, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
- Row 7: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the last st. (10sts)
- Row 8: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the last st. (12sts)
- Rows 9-12: Sc in each st across. (12sts for 4 rows)
- Row 13: Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog. (10sts)
- Row 14: Sc in each st across. (10sts)
- Row 15: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
- Rows 16-17: Sc in each st across. (8sts for 2 rows)
- Row 18: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
- Row 19: Sc in each st across. (6sts)
- Row 20: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (4sts)
- Row 21: [Sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)
- Row 22: Sc2tog. (1st)
- If making the inner ear with Color (D) fasten off and weave in the ends and set aside. If making the outer ear in Color (A), weave in your starting tail, and then it’s time to join the inner and outer ear together.
- Lay the inner ear on top of the outer ear and line it up so the inner ear it’s lying on top facing you.
>Design Note: On the right ear the notch on the ear is on the top outside part of the ear. (See pictures if needed.) Your working yarn is at the bottom of the ear.
- With the front of the ear facing you, work up the right side of the ear and around the entire piece, single crocheting the inner and outer ear together making sure to go through both pieces with each stitch. It was helpful for me to sc, ch1, sc in the same st at the top points of the ear and at the points of the “cut out” area of the ear to help round the corners evenly.
>Design Note: The stitching that you are making should have automatically faced towards the front of the ear. If it’s curving towards the back make sure that you started your work up the right side of the ear.
- When you make it around the entire outer edge sl st to the 1st st and fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the ear to the head.
Left Ear
Make 2, first the inner ear in Color (D) and then the outer ear in Color (A).
>Design Note: You will be working in rows to make the earpieces. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row.
- Ch 2
- Row 1: Working in the back bar of the chain 2sc in the 2nd ch from hook. (2sts)
- Row 2: 2sc in the next 2sts. (4sts)
- Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the last st. (6sts)
- Row 4: Sc in each st across. (6sts)
- Row 5: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the last st. (8sts)
- Rows 6-7: Sc in each st across. (8sts for 2 rows)
- Row 8: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 5sts, leave the remaining 2sts unworked, ch3. (7sts + 3ch)
- Row 9: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in the next ch, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
- Row 10: Sc in each st across. (10sts)
- Row 11: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the last st. (12sts)
- Rows 12-15: Sc in each st across. (12sts for 4 rows)
- Row 16: Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog. (10sts)
- Row 17: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
- Row 18: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
- Rows 19-20: Sc in each st across. (6sts for 2 rows)
- Row 21: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (4sts)
- Row 22: [Sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)
- Row 23: Sc2tog. (1st)
- If making the inner ear with Color (D) fasten off and weave in the ends and set aside. If making the outer ear in Color (A), weave in your starting tail, and then it’s time to join the inner and outer ear together.
- Lay the inner ear on top of the outer ear and line it up so the inner ear it’s lying on top facing you.
>Design Note: On the left ear the notch on the ear is on the bottom outside part of the ear. (See pictures if needed.) Your working yarn is at the top of the ear.
- With the front of the ear facing you, work up the right side of the ear and around the entire piece, sing crocheting the inner and outer ear together making sure to go through both pieces with each stitch. It was helpful for me to sc, ch1, sc in the same st at the top points of the ear and at the points of the “cut out” area of the ear to help round the corners evenly.
>Design Note: The stitching that you are making should have automatically faced towards the front of the ear. If it’s curving towards the back make sure that you started your work down the left side of the ear.
- When you make it around the entire outer edge sl st to the 1st st and fasten off leaving a tail long enough to weave the end back down to the bottom of the ear as well as sew the ear to the head.
Tail
Make 1
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2Rnds)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (10sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the tail.
- Sl st, fasten off and leave a tail for attaching the tail to the body.
Head Patch
Make 1
Using Color (C) and working in rows
>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease when working in rows.
Middle Image: Row 3 completed.
Right Image: Row 1-6 completed and the hook inserted for Row 7.
- Ch 8
- Row 1: Working in the back bar of the chain: sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. (7sts)
- Row 2: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog. (5sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to weave in.
- Row 3: Using a new strand of yarn ch 4, now (using a standing sc) sc onto the original piece in the 2nd st from the right, sc in the next 2sts, ch 5. (9 chains sts and 3sc)
- Row 4: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch and st across. (11sts)
- Row 5: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog. (9sts)
- Row 6: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across. (9sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to weave in.
- Row 7: Fasten onto the piece using a standing sc in the 3rd st from the right, sc in the next 4sts. (5sts)
- Row 8: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across. (5sts)
- Row 9: Turn, ch1, 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the last st. (7sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew the entire patch onto the body. Weave in all the other yarn tails.
Back Patch
Make 1
Using Color (C) and working in rows
Middle Image: Row 1-3 completed with the ch 4 and hook inserted for Row 4.
Right Image: Row 1-4 completed.
- Ch 8
- Row 1: Working in the back bar of the chain: sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. (7sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to weave in.
- Row 2: Fasten onto the piece using a standing sc in the 3rd st from the right, sc in the next 2sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)
- Row 3: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across. (3sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to weave in.
- Row 4: Using a new strand of yarn ch 4, now sc (using a standing sc) onto the original piece in the far-right st, sc the next 2sts, ch 5. (9 chains sts and 3sc)
- Row 5: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch and st across. (11sts)
- Row 6: Turn, ch1, sc in each ch and st across. (11sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to weave in.
Right Image: Row 1-8 completed with the ch 4 and hook inserted for Row 9.
- Row 7: Fasten onto the piece using a standing sc in the 5th st from the right, sc in the next 2sts. (3sts)
- Row 8: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across. (3sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to weave in.
Right Image: Row 1-10 completed with the hook inserted for Row 11.
- Row 9: Repeat Row 4.
- Row 10: Repeat Row 5.
- Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to weave in.
- Row 11: Repeat Row 7.
- Row 12: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across. (3sts)
- Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew the entire patch onto the body. Weave in all the other yarn tails.
Assembly
Pin all your pieces together until you have the desired placement and then stitch securely in place with your tapestry needle.
>Design Tip: Remember to add more stuffing right before you finish closing up the attachment for the neck, legs, arms, nose, and tail. When you attach one piece to another it leaves a small gap that otherwise would not have any stuffing in it. Adding stuffing right up to the very end makes a piece feel more sturdy and look more professional.
>Design Tip: Take your time and stitch your pieces together stitch by stitch!
- After pinning everything in place, begin by attaching the head to the body. You may need to unpin portions of the other appendages to do this.
- Then attached the tummy patch. Once again, you may need to remove pins from various portions to be able to reach the panel for stitching. At the top of the panel, closest to the neck, make your stitches into the Color (B) portion of the head so that they blend together as one solid color.
- The nose is attached about a row above the Color (B) patch on the bottom of the head and central on the face. Stuff the nose before adding it to the head and right before closing up the last few stitches.
- The eyes are attached between about Rnds 7-14. Having pinned them for placement will ensure that you like how they are positioned. Stitch on the white spot.
- Stitch the ears on the sides of the head right beside the eyes. I stitched on the inside rows near the bottom (approximately 7sts) both in the front and on the back of the ear. If you only stitch on one side of the ear it is likely to be floppy. Stitching on both sides will make it stand up on its own.
- Both the arms and the legs overlap the tummy patch some when sewn on, the legs overlapping more than the arms.
- The head patch and back patch are centered and stitched on to their corresponding body part.
- The tail is centered under the back patch on the middle of the behind.
Coming Soon!
Update: You can now find the free pattern for Angel HERE!
You may have already guessed this, but the pattern for Angel will be coming to the blog soon too! I’m a sucker for cute couples and fun love stories so when I made Stitch I knew that I’d need to make his love interest, Angel, as well. Stay tuned!
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Copyright and Use Policy
**Because this is fan art of a copyrighted character I cannot give you permission to sell products you’ve made using my pattern. It is for personal use only. You are welcome to share my photos and patterns on social media as long as you do so by using only 1-2 pictures and provide a link directly to my blog post for the pattern. A printable PDF option will NEVER be made available. You may not copy, republish, sell, distribute, translate without permission, or claim my photos, tutorials, or patterns as your own in any way. ** Thank you!
OMG! So precious:)
Great detailed post!
Thanks, Angela!
Hi Jen!
Your Disney Stitch is adorable. How do you make the tear in Stitches ear? Please share.
Thank you!
Janis
I’m so glad that you like him! Shaping the ears was one of the parts that I worked on the most, so I appreciate you noticing! As you described it, the tear is made by using short rows. If you’re not familiar with short rows it means that you intentionally only work part of the row and then chain the number of stitches desired to get back to the desired length of the next row, work back in those chains, and then across the row again. Doing this creates the gap in the ear.
It’s a great technique to use for shaping, but also create slits in things like a skirt.
I have it written directly in the pattern, so looking at the Right ear this is where the gap happens.
Row 4: Sc in each st across (6sts) = regular row
Row 5: Sc in the next 4sts, leave the remaining 2sts unworked, ch3 (4sts + 3ch) = short row plus the chains added to get the desired length for the next row (remember to add one to allow for turning)
Row 6: 2sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in the next ch, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st (8sts) = row after the gap that ultimately finishes the creation of the gap
If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to reach out!
Hi Jen!
Thank you so much for the instructions on the tears on Stitches ears!
God bless always😊
You’re so welcome and may God bless you as well!
i have done this pattern and made the arms over and they still work out slightly different right has working rows and claws infront the left end up with seam in back claws infront why dose the pattern change for each arm one having a row of three and then unworked and the other having 11 and then unworked left arm is short a row compared to right
It changes because the last part of each of the arms that is worked in Rows instead of Rounds creates a bit of a shoulder which needs to be on different sides of each arm. I technically could have had you fasten off and then reattach a few stitches later instead of crocheting the extra 8sts to get to the other side of the arm, but you won’t notice the difference when the arms are attached to the body. Does that help? If not, let me know.
He is just so adorable! My children loved this movie so much. I love where the idea for this design came from, you are so creative!
Thank you!
Hi thank you for sharing this pattern with the crochet community. Coincidentally, My 8 yr old niece sent me a snap asking me if I can make a crochet replica of her pink plush stitch with a hooded jacket. I was like yikes how can I make that… lol so I am glad that this pattern became available. I can make one for her and she will be very happy
Awesome! I’m glad that the timing worked out! I’ll be posting the pattern for Angel to the blog next week as well, so it may be helpful to watch for that too! Also, if you get a moment please share when you finish, I would love to see your work! 🙂
Jen, thank you for the detailed tutorial! I’ll have to show my kids as that was their favorite movie when they were little.
You’re very welcome!
So cute! You are amazingly talented! Your posts are so detailed with the instructions! Great job!
Thank you. I appreciate your kind words.
How do I down load the pattern for stitch. I’ve been on this web sight for over 2 hours.
I’m glad that you like the design. Because Stitch is a copyrighted character and made as crochet fan art I do not offer an inexpensive downloadable PDF as an option for this design. His pattern can however be viewed and used directly from the blog. Thanks for understanding. Wishing you a wonderful day. Happy crocheting!
You ARE great!! thanks so much for sharing!!! my best friend couldn’t believe her eyes when she saw it!! thanks for all the details.. You’re such a great designer!
Thank you. I’m glad that you like it.
Can stitch be made bigger like 16inches?
You would likely have to rewrite the pattern to get him to be that large. You could try a bulkier yarn, but I don’t know how that would turn out in the end. It likely wouldn’t increase him by that much.
HAVING TROUBLE DOING THE PATCHES ANY IDEAS OR VIDEO ON HOW THANK YOU PAM
Hello, Pam. I don’t have a video for the patches, but I am glad to walk you through how to do them if I know where you’re having trouble. There are several different techniques utilized in the patches to get the shaping that may be new for some, but we can work through it. If you think it would be beneficial to send pictures of where you’re having trouble we could also chat via email or a direct message on Instagram or Facebook I’m glad to help either way. Just shoot me a message or comment here and let me know where you’re having trouble.
MADE TWO ONE FOR THE GRANDSON WHICH I FINISHED THIS MORNING AND MADE ONE FOR THE GRANDDAUGTHER FIGURED OUT THE BACK AND HEAD PATCHES BUT THANK YOU FOR YOUR ANSWER.
I’m so glad that you were able to figure things out. How lucky your grandchildren are to have someone make them such a special gift!
I am also confused here
I’m working on getting something together that can hopefully help and then we can work from there. It’s going to take me a bit, but we’ll get it all figured out. Thanks for understanding.
Thank you so much for sharing this cute character. My daughter is obsessed with Stitch. I am confused on round 4 doing the arms. Having trouble understanding how to connect 4 claws.
Hello! Thanks for reaching out. I’m going to copy the row here for us to reference and try to explain below that.
Rnd 4: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 6sts, [Using Color (C): Ch4, now working in the back bars of the ch sc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in the next 2 chains, Using Color (A): Sc in the next 2sts] 4times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 4sts (18sts + 4 claws)
The claws are created in between the stitches as you go by changing colors during the last step of the previous stitch (from pink to purple), making the chain and then working back down the chain with the sc and hdc sts. So when finished you’ll still have the 18sts because no increases or decreases are made, but will also have 4 claws.
So you’ll start in pink and sc the next 6sts. On that last stitch you’ll change color (to purple) and create the first claw by doing the ch and working back down it. On the last step of the claw you’ll change color back to pink and sc in the next 2sts on the arm again. You’ll repeat this sequence 4 times after which you’ll have all 4 claws made with 2sts crocheted on the arm between each of them and after the final claw. This will leave you with 4sts left to crochet in the pink and then the row is finished.
I hope that this answers your question. If you still need help feel free to reach out to me via the contact form (on the top menu bar) and we can chat more via email, sharing additional pictures and such as needed. I’m glad to help.
I’ve added pictures to the blog post for the patches. Let me know if this helps and if you still have questions.
Pam, I’ve added pictures to the blog post for the patches. Let me know if this helps and if you still have questions.
Hi ! Love this work piece! I just have a quick question hon, after each row, do you slip stitch before starting a new row?
The pattern is written using continuous rounds, so no slip stitching after each round. If there are slip stitches made in the pattern they are noted. If you have further questions don’t hesitate to reach out. Happy Crocheting!
I have a son that loves stitch and when I saw this pattern I knew I had to do it. Haven’t done it yet but it’s coming ☺️ thank you for the pattern ☺️
.
You’re so very welcome!
I love this, just one question, are the increase stitches to form the sides of body & head, TIA
I’m so glad that you like the pattern. I’m not exactly sure what you mean specifically, but yes, the increase stitches, as well as the decrease stitches in the pattern, are what help to form the pieces in the pattern. If my response isn’t helpful at all let me know and we’ll work through it together. Happy Crocheting!
Thanks, I just wasn’t sure where the tummy should be placed but now I know it goes between the increase and decrease rows on the 10 stitches part, if you know what I mean.
I love this pattern just one question how do you get the ears yo stand up
Awesome! I’m glad to hear that you are enjoying the pattern. The ears should stand up on their own when stitched to the head. Are you having trouble with this?
Is there a pattern for stitch’s little entenas
I didn’t do the version of Stitch with the antennae, however, if you take the antennae for Angel and shorten them to the desired length I think that would work. What do you think? Her pattern can be found here. https://www.jenhayescreations.com/crochet-angel/
Hello Jen,
I’m currently working on your stitch pattern and I have some struggle with the head pattern. Row 18 I just can’t get through. There’s 10 stitches in total when the color changes from a to b. What I’m struggling with is that color b isn’t lining up with the b color from row 17. What can I possibly be doing wrong?
Hello! The nature of working in the round will cause the color to skew some so this could be what is happening. If you want you can send me an email via the contact form if you’re still having trouble. This way we can also send images back and forth too if needed.
You can find that form here https://www.jenhayescreations.com/contact/
Could you please email me this pattern of stitch thanks
I do not create digital PDF patterns for fan art designs. They are only available on the blog for personal use. Thanks for understanding.
Is this pattern done entirely in front loop only, back loop only, or both loops? I’m also a little confused on the steps 6-8. I’m new to crochet and have trouble following patterns but I really want this to come out well as it’s for my little sister.
Hey! Sorry missed your comment and its taken a bit to get back to you. How sweet of you to make it for your little sister. The whole pattern, unless specified, is worked through both loops. Which part of the pattern for steps 6-8 are you having trouble with?
Mit jelent a hogyan kell készíteni a Trbl és a turn
Thank you! This is such a cute pattern! I have been doing crochet for only 6 months but I was able to get through everything with no issues! He is super cute. I put a little fuzzy hair on top too. I really love him. Thanks so much.
That’s exciting! Congrats on your progress. I’m so glad that you enjoyed the pattern.
Hello.
Working on first arm. Confused with starting row 18. Will I be working on the three sc from to r17?
Thanks for reaching out. On Row 18 you go from working previously in Rnds to Rows. Rows 18-20 create a sort of shoulder (not working the 3sts in Rnd 17 helps to get proper placement). So working Row 18 you’ll turn and ch 1, then yes, work into those three skipped sts from Rnd 17 and further past to work the remaining 8sts for a total of 11 sc. In Row 19 you’ll go back to working only the 11sts form Row 18 and so forth for Row 20. I hope that is clear. If not please let me know and I can explain more as needed. Have a wonderful day and happy crocheting!
I absolutely loved making stitch and Angel. Now my niece wants Lilo. Do you happen to have a pattern for her?
I’m glad that you enjoyed them. Sorry, I do not have a pattern designed for Lilo.
Thank you Jen, such a great pattern
Made 2 for each of my grandkids, not perfect but I’m proud of myself
That’s awesome! I’m so glad that you enjoyed that pattern.
When working on the eyes, you have in round 1 that there are 10 stitches. Then in round that there are only supposed to be 14 stitches. But when I finish round 2, I end up with 16 stitches. Am I doing something wrong? I’m following your pattern.
I went back and re-read and re-did that part if the pattern. I read it wrong. I am so sorry
No worries. I’m just glad that you were able to get it figured out. I’m always glad to help if you have a question.
I finally finished Stitch. It was a work in progress for a few months. I am so happy with the final result. Thank you Jen for this pattern. My grandson loves it.
I’m so glad to hear this! Thanks for sharing. Best wishes to you!
I’m struggling to understand how to do the head and back patches can you explain them to me a little.
I’m glad to help. Can you help me understand a bit more about what you’re not understanding. Did you see the images that go with the instructions?
Were you able to get the ears on where they didn’t flop around after you’ve sewn them on? If so how did you do it?
When you stitched the ears on did you stitch it at both the front and the back of the ear? “Stitch the ears on the sides of the head right beside the eyes. I stitched on the inside rows near the bottom (approximately 7sts) both in the front and on the back of the ear. If you only stitch on one side of the ear it is likely to be floppy. Stitching on both sides will make it stand up on its own.” Let me know if that helps.
How do I make the ears not floppy? I am stitching them on and they are really floppy.
Hey! Thanks for the pattern. I’m struggling with the legs because they look off when I try to sew them on. Why does only one of the legs have a row 18?
When you work the rows at the top of the leg it makes a bit of a “hip” which makes the legs directional (right or left). I’ve designed the pattern such that you don’t have to fasten off to create one of the hips. If you notice the difference between the two legs starts at Rnd 15. This is all to keep that hip in the right place for each let. Does that help?
I didn’t quite get it so
Improvised. I’m still not sure though why one leg has more rows.
Ps. I love your work! If you have any videos or help on how to sew amigurumi neatly please let me know because I am struggling with this the most.