Today I’m excited to share the Crochet Squirrel Pattern designed by me and sponsored by Fairfield World! Aren’t they just absolutely adorable?! I think they would be perfect for play or for woodland theme decoration!
Fairfield World is the maker of Poly-fil which I use for stuffing all my amigurumi pieces. I love it because it’s affordable, durable, washable, is oh so squishable, and it comes in a variety of package sizes to fit the need of your project.
I personally use pounds and pounds each year (yes I love it that much) so I go with the big 20-pound box, but there are many more options to choose from.
Read on to learn more about my inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Squirrel or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.
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Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. This project is sponsored by Fairfield World but the project, thoughts, and opinions are my own. Please see the disclosure page if you would like further details.
The Inspiration
The inspiration for this design came from thinking about summer camp. From about the age of twelve up through high school, I went each summer with the girls in my church, to a gorgeous campsite in McCall, Idaho. Being with friends amidst the trees, near the lake, around the campfires, and in general in the great outdoors is something that I still love so much.
Amongst these fun outdoor adventures is always the wildlife that you see while out hiking and exploring. I personally loved seeing the chipmunks and the squirrels scurrying around, and it’s with all these fun summer memories in my heart that I created the Crochet Squirrel to share with you.
The Crochet Squirrel is an intermediate-level design featuring several techniques that are commonly used when making amigurumi like the magic ring, working in a continuous round, and simple color changes. There are also a few techniques that may provide opportunities to learn and increase your skills such as forming a heel for the foot, joining the legs together, and creating the bend in the tail.
The design features creating feet that are then joined followed by the creation of the body as one whole piece. The head arms, ears, tummy panel, and tail, are created separately and attached using a tapestry needle. Hand embroidering the nose finishes off this adorable piece.
While the pattern may be more advanced in some aspects I always encourage ambitious beginners to give it a go! The pattern will walk you through the tricky portions and I’m a firm believer that practice is the best way to learn even if it takes us a few times to get something right.
I think that you’re going to absolutely love your Crochet Squirrel, I know I do!
The Yarn
The Yarn featured in the Crochet Squirrel design is Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Solids, Heathers, and Tweeds. They are all worsted, size 4, acrylic yarns with the tweed yarns having a touch of viscose in them. It’s the viscose that creates the flecks in the yarn that I love so much.
Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight yarn should work well for making the Crochet Squirrel but note that due to variations among brands the finished size of the Squirrel may vary slightly. If a cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine, as would changing the yarn size, just make sure that hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn. As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations to share!
The Pattern
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Scissors
- Poly-fil Stuffing
- Tapestry needle
- Pins
- Safety eyes – black, 9 mm
- Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
Brown Squirrel
- Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Tweeds (worsted 4-Medium, 97% acrylic, 3% viscose, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (A) Taupe, used approx. 140 yds/128 m
- Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (B) Taupe, used approx. 20 yds/18 m, Color (C) Off White, used approx. 18 yds/16.5 m, Color (D) Black, used approx. 1 yd/1 m
Grey Squirrel
- Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Tweeds (worsted 4-Medium, 97% acrylic, 3% viscose, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (A) Gray Heather, used approx. 140 yds/128 m
- Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (B) Grey Heather, used approx. 20 yds/18 m
- Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (C) Off White, used approx. 18 yds/16.5 m, Color (D) Taupe, used approx. 1 yd/1 m
Orange Squirrel
- Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A&B) Pumpkin, used approx. 160 yds/146 m, Color (C) Off White, used approx. 18 yds/16.5 m, Color (D) Taupe, used approx. 1 yd/1 m
Gauge
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 8 rounds of the tail measure approximately 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) in diameter.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Squirrel measures approximately 8.25 inches (21 cm) from the bottom of the foot to the tip of the ear.
Design Notes
- The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
- The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds with the tummy patch and a portion of the foot made in rows. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
- At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
- Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
- Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
- The squirrels in the pattern were designed using the yarn under method, the yarn over method can also be used and will potentially create a slightly larger squirrel.
- Caution! If using safety eyes take into consideration who will be using the item. The use of safety eyes is not recommended for children under the age of three or for those prone to putting things in their mouth as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand embroidered eyes are a great alternative!
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
- ch – Chain
- Rnd(s) – Round(s)
- Row(s) – Row(s)
- sc – Single crochet
- sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (Primarily use an invisible decrease. It will be noted in the pattern when to use a regular decrease.)
- sl st – Slip stitch
- st(s) – Stitch(s)
- [ ] / ( ) – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
- magic circle/adjustable ring
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Let’s Make Our Squirrel!
>Design Note: The design begins with making both legs which are then joined together, and then the body is created as one piece.
Left Leg
Starting with Color (B)
>Design Tip: Starting with Color (B) adds a slight detail to the squirrel’s foot, but it’s totally appropriate to make the entire foot in Color (A).
>Design Note: The left foot will be worked in both continuous rounds as well as rows. The starting point will change and be noted in the pattern.
- Ch 4.
- Rnd 1: In the back bars of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st with a stitch marker as the starting st), sc in the next st, 4sc in the next st (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first sts on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (14sts)
- Rnd 3: [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts] 2 times. (16sts)
- Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 4 Rnds)
- Rnd 8: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts] 2 times. (14sts)
- Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (14sts)
- Mark the 1st and 8th st with a stitch marker for later reference.
>Design Notes: The next portion of the foot is worked in turned rows and will create the back bottom of the foot. The rows will be noted as being rows in the pattern, but the Rnd/Row count will continue to increase. The original starting stitch marker no longer counts as the starting point but is marked for later reference. Use a regular decrease when working in rows.
- Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 6sts. (6sts)
- Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in the 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts. (5sts)
- Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in the 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st. (4sts)
- Row 13: Ch 1, turn, [sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)
>Design Notes: The pattern will now return to working in continuous Rnds creating the heel and the remainder of the leg. In Rnd 14 the bottom of the foot that was worked in rows will be connected to the top of the main foot (Rnd 9). The previously placed stitch markers can be removed once they are passed in the pattern while working Rnd 14.
- Rnd 14: Working along the edge of Rows 13 down to 11: Sc in the edge of each of the next 3 rows, marking the first st as the new starting point, Using the edge of Row 10 and the next st along the top of the main foot (Rnd 9, marked with a stitch marker) and using a regular dec: sc2tog, On the main top of the foot (Rnd 9): sc in the next 6sts, In the next st (marked with a stitch marker) and the edge of Row 10, using a regular dec: sc2tog, Working along the edge of Rows 11 up to Row 13: sc in the edge of the next 3 rows, At the top of the heel (Row 13): sc2tog. (15sts)
Begin to firmly stuff and shape the foot and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 15: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (13sts)
Switch to Color (A)
- Rnd 16: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts. (11sts)
- Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (11sts)
- Rnd 18: Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st. (12sts)
- Rnd 19: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 20: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 7sts. (15sts)
- Rnd 21: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
- Rnd 22: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts. (19sts)
- Rnd 23: Sc in each st around. (19sts)
- Fasten off, mark st 17 for later reference when joining the feet together, and set aside for now.
Right Leg
Starting with Color (B)
>Design Tip: Starting with Color (B) adds a slight detail to the squirrel’s foot, but it’s totally appropriate to make the entire foot in Color (A).
>Design Note: The right foot will be worked in both continuous rounds as well as rows. The starting point will change and be noted in the pattern. The images shared for the feet apply to making both the left and the right foot.
- Ch 4.
- Rnd 1: In the back bars of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st with a stitch marker as the starting st), sc in the next st, 4sc in the next st (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first sts on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (14sts)
- Rnd 3: [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts] 2 times. (16sts)
- Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 4 Rnds)
- Rnd 8: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts] 2 times. (14sts)
- Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (14sts)
- Mark the 1st and 8th st with a stitch marker for later reference.
>Design Note: The next portion of the foot is worked in turned rows and will create the bottom of the foot. The rows will be noted as being rows in the pattern, but the Rnd/Row count will continue to increase. The original starting stitch marker no longer counts as the starting point but is marked for later reference. Use a regular decrease when working in rows.
- Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 6sts. (6sts)
- Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in the 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts. (5sts)
- Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in the 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st. (4sts)
- Row 13: Ch 1, turn, [sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)
>Design Note: The pattern will now return to working in continuous Rnds. In Rnd 14 the bottom of the foot that was worked in rows will be connected to the top of the main foot (Rnd 9). The previously placed stitch markers can be removed once they are passed in the pattern when working Rnd 14.
- Rnd 14: Working along the edge of Rows 13 down to 11: Sc in the edge of each of the next 3 rows, marking the first st as the new starting point, Using the edge of Row 10 and the next st along the top of the main foot (Rnd 9, marked with a stitch marker) and using a regular dec: sc2tog, On the main top of the foot: sc in the next 6sts, In the next st (marked with a stitch marker) and the edge of Row 10, using a regular dec: sc2tog, Working along the edge of Rows 11 up to Row 13: sc in the edge of the next 3 rows, At the top of the heel (Row 13): sc2tog. (15sts)
Begin to firmly stuff and shape the foot and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 15: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (13sts)
Switch to Color (A)
- Rnd 16: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts. (11sts)
- Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (11sts)
- Rnd 18: Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st. (12sts)
- Rnd 19: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 20: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 2sts. (15sts)
- Rnd 21: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
- Rnd 22: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 3sts. (19sts)
- Rnd 23: Sc in each st around. (19sts)
Joining the Legs and Making the Body
>Design Note: A sc join is made by inserting the hook (with the working loop on the hook) into the piece to be joined into the designated stitch from the right side of the work to the wrong side of the work, yarn over/yarn under (based on preference), pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.
- Rnd 24: Sc in the next 5sts, mark the 6th st with a stitch marker for later reference, ch3, join with a sc onto the left leg in the 17th st (marked previously with a stitch marker), sc in the next 18sts on the left leg, in the back bars of the chain: sc in the next 3ch, join back onto the right leg with a sc in the 6th st (marked with a stitch marker which can be removed), sc in the next 13sts (44sts) (>Design Note: Both the ch and the sts worked into the back of the ch count as sts in this Rnd.)
- Rnd 25: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 4 times, 2sc in the next 4sts, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 5sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, 2sc in the next 5sts, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st. (66sts)
- Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (66sts)
- Rnd 27: Sc in the next 3sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 4 times, sc in the next 5sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 4 times, sc in the next 5sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)
- Rnd 28: Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 19sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 14sts. (44sts)
- Rnd 29: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 17sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts. (40sts)
- Rnd 30: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts. (36sts)
- Rnds 31-33: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 3 Rnds)
- Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
Begin to firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnds 35-39: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 5 Rnds)
- Rnd 40: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 14sts, sc2tog. (28sts)
- Rnd 41: Sc in each st around. (28sts)
- Rnd 42: [Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (26sts)
- Rnd 43: [Sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 44: [Sc2tog, in the next 10sts] 2 times. (22sts)
- Rnd 45: [Sc2tog, in the next 9sts] 2 times. (20sts)
- Rnd 46: [Sc2tog, in the next 8sts] 2 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 47: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (16sts)
- Rnd 48: [Sc2tog, in the next 6sts] 2 times. (14sts)
- Sl st to the next st, fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the head to the body.
Head
Using Color (C)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
Switch to Color (A)
>Design Tip: In the next Rnd the first st will be a sl st. It could just be made as a sc, but when changing colors while working in continuous Rnds this will help to more seamlessly change colors, eliminating the stair-step/jogging that typically occurs when changing colors.
- Rnd 5: Sl st in the first st (counts as a st), sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (18sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (21sts)
- Rnd 7: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (24sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (27sts)
- Rnd 10: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (30sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (33sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (36sts)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (39sts)
- Rnd 14: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (42sts)
Insert the safety eyes. Suggested placement is between Rnd 10 and 11 approximately 8sts apart. The head is the same all the way around so the eyes can be placed in whichever placing is most pleasing.
- Rnds 15-17: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 3 Rnds)
- Rnd 18: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (39sts)
- Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (36sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the head and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 20: Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (33sts)
- Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 22: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (27sts)
- Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 24: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (21sts)
- Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 26: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (15sts)
- Rnd 27: [Sc2tog] 7 times, sc in the next st. (8sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.
Ears
Make 2
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (8sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (10sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (10sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
- Sl st in the next st, fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the ear to the head.
Arms
Make 2
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
- Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts. (11sts)
- Rnd 7: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts. (10sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the arm and continue to do so as the pattern progresses, leaving the last 3 Rnds unstuffed so they remain flatter against the body.
- Rnds 8-9: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 2 Rnds)
- Rnd 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts. (9sts)
- Rnds 11-20: Sc in each st around. (9sts for 10 Rnds)
- Press the top edges together and sc them together across. (4sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.
Tail
Make 1
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)
- Rnd 9-10: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)
The tail will now be divided and worked in two sections. The tip of the tail will be created first followed by the lower section that connects to the body.
Set Up
- In preparation, mark st 28 with a stitch marker and keep the starting stitch marker in place.
- Fold the work wrong sides together so the first st lines up with the stitch marker in the 28th st.
- Turn the entire work 180 degrees so the 28th stitch faces forward.
Tip of the Tail
- Rnd 1: With the working loop on the hook reach forwards across the work to the 29th st of the round (to the left of the marked 28th st) and sc in this st (mark this st as the new starting st, but keep the other stitch markers in for later reference), working to the left sc in the next 19sts. (20sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 2sts. (24sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (22sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (20sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (16sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (16sts)
- Rnd 7: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (10sts)
- Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (8sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc2tog] 4 times. (4sts)
- Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.
- Firmly stuff and shape the tip of the tail.
The Bottom Portion of the Tail
Using Color (A) and leaving a long starting tail
>Design Note: When the placed stitch markers are passed in Rnd 1 they can be removed. Leave the long starting tail on the outside of the work to be used for later stitching.
- Rnd 1: With the tip of the tail to the right sl st into the st to the right of the front stitch marker (a st that was also worked when making the tip of the tail – does not count as a st), sc in the next 3sts (mark the first st as the new starting st), 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 3sts (the final st contains the last marked stitch). (32sts)
- Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (36sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (40sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (36sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the tail and continue to do so as the pattern progresses, leaving the last 2 Rnds only lightly stuffed so they lie flatter when stitched to the body.
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (32sts)
- Rnds 8-9: Sc in each st around. (32sts for 2 Rnds)
- Rnd 10: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 3sts. (28sts)
- Rnds 11-12: Sc in each st around. (28sts for 2 Rnds)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (24sts)
- Rnds 14-15: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
- Rnd 16: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 2sts. (20sts)
- Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around. (20sts for 2 Rnds)
- Rnd 19: Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st. (18sts)
- Rnd 20: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog. (16sts)
- Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (14sts)
- Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (14sts)
- Rnd 23: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts. (12sts)
- Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Press the top edges together and sc them together across (the seam should lie flush with the body with the tip of the tail facing out). (6sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the tail to the body.
- Close up the small hole on the underside bend in the tail.
Tummy Panel
The Tummy Panel is made in rows from the top down.
Make 1
Using Color (C)
- Ch 5
>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows.
Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.
- Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st. (6sts)
- Row 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
- Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
- Rows 4-13: Sc in each st across. (10sts or 10 Rows)
- Row 14: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
- Row 15: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
- Row 16: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (4sts)
- Row 17: [Sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the tummy panel to the body. Weave in the starting tail.
Assembly
Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Squirrel and stitch securely into place. Remember to add additional stuffing before closing the holes to fill in the gaps as appropriate.
General placement and stitching suggestions:
- Head. Center the head over the body at about Rnds 12-18 of the head and stitch in place.
- Ears. Attach the ears to the head at about Rnds 16-19 approximately 3-4sts apart.
- Arms. Attach the arms on either side of the body about 1-2 Rnds down from where the head is attached.
- Nose. Using Color (D) whipstitch a triangular-shaped nose covering approximately Rnd 5 (the top of the Color (C) section) to the center of Rnd 1, and approximately 3-4 sts wide at the top. Then stitch a line straight down from the bottom center of the nose for approximately 2 Rnds. The Color (C) tip of the nose will likely concave while stitching but can be pushed out by squeezing it or pulling it out using the tip of the tapestry needle.
- Tummy Panel. Stitch the tummy panel to the front of the tummy with the top approximately 3 Rnds down from the neck and the bottom near the top of the V of the crotch.
- Tail. Attach the tail to the back center of the body with the base of the tail approximately 4-5 Rnds up from where the legs were joined together (the crotch area). Stitch along the bottom of the tail. Stitch approximately 4 Rnds up on each side of the tail and then straight across in the space between the tail and the body (also at approximately 4 Rnds up from the base of the tail). Add any additional tacking if needed to keep the tail in the desired position.
Looking for more great patterns?
These may be of interest! 1. Crochet Puppy Dog 2. Ridged Crochet Feathers in Four Sizes 3. Crochet Gnome
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This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!
vicenta enriquez laza says
Hola. Por favor, no podrian traducir el patron en castellano??