Crochet Reindeer Gnome

The Crochet Reindeer Gnome is sure to add cheer to your holiday decor and celebrations. Seriously, can you not help but smile when you look at him? He’s that adorable.

I couldn’t be more excited about how he turned out, hope that you love him too, and look forward to seeing your creations. Happy Crocheting!

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Reindeer Gnome or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

I knew when I began designing Christmas gnomes like the Santa Gnome, the Elf Gnome, and the Snowman Gnome, that the Crochet Reindeer Gnome would eventually join the party. There are just those iconic characters that you know have to be there in the group.

Hmmmm…..this has me thinking, which member of the group should come next? If you have a request make sure to let me know in the comments!

The Crochet Reindeer Gnome features classic Christmas colors in red, green, and white, but feel free to make his holiday sweater as bright and festive as you wish. Neon anyone?

How about a group of them having an ugly sweater contest?!! Sequins, buttons, beads, ribbons, patches, and more are all allowed.

Honestly, I think I could spend the rest of the year making reindeer with a variety of personalities and have so much fun doing it. Are you with me? Santa does need nine of them, right?

In the design, you’ll find several small, fun details both built into the pattern and hand-stitched. This is also the perfect pattern to have the opportunity to learn and/or practice a variety of joining techniques.

I’m excited to see what colors you’ll use. To see if you’ll make his nose red or brown….or surprise me with something new? Will you prefer bells, a pom pom, or both?

Just to note, I thought that these tiny .23 inch/5.8 mm jingle bells were perfect for the harness, but if you want one for the hat instead of a pom pom, I’d go with a 1-2 inch/25-50 mm size depending on how pronounced you want the bell to be. Keep in mind that they too can come in a wide variety of colors and styles.

What size of Crochet Reindeer Gnome will you make? I love the worsted weight size, but am also smitten by the crochet thread size. It would make the perfect ornament. Whatever you decide I’d love to see if you’re willing to share. Happy crocheting!

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The Yarn

The Crochet Reindeer Gnome, like his other gnome friends, was made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft. It is a well-known and widely available yarn both online and in many craft stores, long loved by many crafters because of its softness, ease of care, and wide selection of colors. Many of the same reasons that I love it!

I especially love that it’s a lighter, acrylic, worsted weight (size 4), yarn and that it comes in a wide range of colors and styles. There are solids, special collections, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites, stripes, paints, speckles, camos (a reindeer in camo now that could be fun!), party, marled, and several more! Truly a wide variety to choose from for any project!

Caron Simply Soft does have a bit of a sheen to it, which I think makes it all the more perfect for Christmas projects. A little sparkle and shine make any holiday a bit more festive, don’t you think?

The biggest con that I hear about Caron Simply Soft yarn is that it can have a tendency to split. Honestly, I must agree that this can be the case. When I first started using the yarn I had more trouble than I do now.

Once I learned how my hook and crochet style interacted with the yarn I rarely have this issue. In fact, when it comes to acrylic yarns it has become one of my go-to yarns over the years for making amigurumi.

In this design, I chose to use a lighter tan for the body with accents of dark brown and off-white for the antlers and hooves. As noted above under the inspiration section, I kept his sweater and hat to the classic red, green, and white Christmas colors, but there are so many more fun options one could choose.

Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Reindeer Gnome but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. The small version is made out of size 10 cotton crochet thread and a 1.50 mm hook.

Making the Crochet Reindeer Gnome with different-sized yarns other than those mentioned has not been tested, but should also likely work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use mostly Clover Amour hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Sewing Needle
• Sewing Thread (coordinating with the harness color)
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Clover Pom Pom Maker (1-⅝  inch/ 45 mm) – (a premade pom pom is also an option)
• Mini Jingle Bells (0.23 inch/6 mm) (Silver, Gold, or Bronze) for the harness
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Bone, used approx. 90 yds/82 m, Color (B) Dark Sage, used approx. 72 yds/66 m, Color (C) Autumn Red, used approx. 29 yds/27 m, Color (D) Off White, used approx. 53 yds/48.5 m, Color (E) Taupe, used approx. 30 yds/27 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Crochet Reindeer Gnome measures approximately 11 inches (28 cm) in the sitting position from the bottom hoof to the top of the antler. 

Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. 
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes and tips are provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern. 
• The miniature Crochet Reindeer Gnome in the images was made using the same pattern with a 1.50 mm hook and size 10 cotton crochet thread. It measures approximately 5 inches (13 cm) from the hoof to the top of the antler. 

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loops only
• BPdc – back post double crochet
• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• FPdc – front post double crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• invisible finish
• MR – magic ring (aka. magic circle, adjustable ring)
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
• sl st – slip stitch
• st(s) – stitch(s)
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as many times as directed
• Some hand embroidery

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Reindeer Gnome!

>Design Variations: The instructions in the pattern result in the Crochet Reindeer Gnome in the green (Color B) sweater. For the Crochet Reindeer Gnome in the red (Color C) sweater, swap all Color (B) and Color (C) instructions, excluding the nose that can be made in brown (Color E) or red (Color C).

>Design Note: The tail, ears, antlers, and arms will all be added seamlessly while making the body so they need to be made first.

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Tail

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (8sts)
• Rnds 3-5: Sc in each st around. (8sts for 3 Rnds)
• Fasten off. Leave the tail unstuffed. Set aside for later.

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Ears

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 3 times. (6sts)
• Fasten off. Leave the ear unstuffed. Mark the third stitch with a stitch marker for later reference when seamlessly joining the ear to the body. Set aside for later.

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Antlers

>Design Note: The antlers are made in three separate parts that are seamlessly joined together.

Parts 1 and 2

Make 4 total

Using Color (E)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnds 2-5: Sc in each st around. (6sts for 4 Rnds)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching. Leave the starting stitch marker for later reference when joining. Firmly stuff and shape, but don’t overstuff. Set aside for later.

Part 3

Make 2

Using Color (E)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnds 2-7: Sc in each st around. (6sts for 6 Rnds)

>Design Note: In the next Rnd, Part 1 and Part 3 will be joined together. Make sure to keep the tail of Part 1 on the outside of the work so it is accessible for later stitching. Leave the stitch marker in the first st of Part 3 for later reference when joining.

• Rnd 8 – Joining Part 1: With the working loop still on the hook insert the hook into the first st of Part 1 (has a st marker in it) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (mark this st as the new starting st, but leave the st marker in Part 3 for later reference), sc in the next 5sts around Part 1, joining back onto Part 3: with the working loop still on the hook insert the hook into the first st of Part 3 (has a st marker in it) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (remove this st marker), sc in the next 5sts around Part 3. (12sts)

• Use the tail from Part 1 and a tapestry needle to stitch up the gap where Part 1 and Part 3 join. (If it’s easier, another Rnd or two can be done before stitching.)

Continue to firmly stuff and shape the antler as the pattern progresses, being careful not to overstuff.

• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (6sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 5sts, leave the remaining st unworked. Move the starting st marker into the unworked st. (5sts) 

>Design Note: In the next Rnd, Part 2 will be joined to the working piece. Make sure to keep the tail of Part 2 on the outside of the work so it is accessible for later stitching.

• Rnd 12 – Joining Part 2: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the first st of Part 2 (has a st marker in it) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (mark this st as the new starting st, but leave the st marker in the working piece for later reference), sc in the next 5sts around Part 2, joining back onto the working piece: with the working loop still on the hook insert the hook into the first st of the working piece (has a st marker in it) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (remove this st marker), sc in the next 5sts around the working piece. (12sts)

• Use the tail from Part 2 and a tapestry needle to stitch up the gap where the join was made. (If it’s easier, another Rnd or two can be done before stitching.)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (6sts)  
• Rnds 15- 16: Sc in each st around. (6sts for 2 Rnds)
• Fasten off. Mark the 3rd st on one of the antlers and the 6th st on the other for later reference when seamlessly joining the antlers to the body. Set aside for later.

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Arms

Make 2

Using Color (E)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)

Switch to color (D)

• Rnd 5: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (10sts). 

Switch to color (A)

• Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts) 

Firmly stuff and shape Rnds 1-7. Leave the rest of the arm unstuffed as the pattern progresses so it will lie flatter against the body. 

Switch to Color (B) 

• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts) 
• Rnd 9: In BLO: Sc in each st around. Mark the front loop of the first st of Rnd 8 to be returned to later. (12sts)

>Design Tip: For the next several Rnds the color will continue to change multiple times. There is no need to fasten off Color (B) each time. Simply drop and pick it up as needed. The other stripe colors will only be used once so they can be cut and knotted on the inside once finished with their indicated Rnd.

Switch to Color (D) 

• Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (B) 

• Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C) 

• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (B) 

• Rnds 13-17: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 5 Rnds)
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up with the starting st on the right edge and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off.

Adding the Ribbing to the Sleeve

Using (Color B)

• With the hoof portion of the arm facing up, insert the hook towards the hoof in the unworked front loop of Rnd 8 (previously marked with a st marker), pull up a loop, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in the same st and in each of the unworked front loop of Rnd 8. (12sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish and weave in the ends. Set aside for later.

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Nose

Make 1

Using Color (C) or Color (E)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the nose to the muzzle.
• Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Set aside for later.

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Muzzle

>Design Note: The muzzle is made in an oval shape using both sides of the foundation ch.

Make 1

Using Color (D) 

• Ch 6
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 3ch, 3sc in the next ch (finishes the side, rounds the corner, and completes the first st on the other side), working on the opposite side of the ch: sc in the next 3ch, 2sc in the next ch. (12sts)

>Design Note for Rnd 2: In Rnd 2 an adjustment will be made to keep the oval more even while working in the round. First, a slip stitch will be used to join Rnd 1. The next stitch should be made in the second stitch of Rnd 1 and marked as the new starting stitch of the round. The pattern will then continue as written, with the last stitches of the round being placed in the slip stitch made previously. This completes the adjustment and all further rounds are worked as written with no joining.

• Rnd 2: Sl st to the first st to join, sc in the next 3sts (mark the first of these as the new starting st), 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next 3sts. (sl st +18sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 3sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 3sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (36sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish, leaving a long tail for stitching the muzzle to the body. 

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Stitching the Nose to the Muzzle and Adding Details

Suggested Stitch Placement:

• Using a tapestry needle, stitch the nose centered on the muzzle with the top of the nose stitched to about the 4th Rnd and the bottom stitched to about Rnd 1 of the muzzle. This placement should leave more of the muzzle visible on the bottom than the top. 
• Using a length of Color (E) and a tapestry needle, stitch a line down the muzzle from the bottom center of the nose to between Rnd 4 and 5. >Design Tip: If the nose was made using Color (E) the same tail used to stitch the nose to the muzzle can then also be used to make this line.  

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Body

Make 1

>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom up. 

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)

In the next Rnd, the bottom of the tail is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 9: Join the bottom of the tail to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into any st on the tail from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops (remember to mark this as the first st of the round), continue to join the tail and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 44sts. (48sts)

In the next Rnd, the top of the tail is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 10: Join the top of the tail to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next unworked st on the tail closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops (remember to mark this as the first st of the round), continue to join the tail and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 44sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. (48sts)

>Design Tip: For the next several Rnds the color will change multiple times. There is no need to fasten off Color (B) each time. Simply drop and pick it up as needed. The other stripe colors will only be used once so they can be cut and knotted on the inside once finished with their indicated Rnd.

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
• Rnd 13: In the BLO: Sc in each st around. Mark the front loop of the first st of Rnd 12 to be returned to later. (48sts)

Switch to Color (D) 

• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (48sts)

Switch to Color (B) 

• Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (48sts)

Switch to Color (C) 

• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (48sts) 

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnds 17-21: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 5 Rnds) 

In the next Rnd, the 6sts at the top of each arm are joined seamlessly to the body. The side of the arm where the color changes on the sweater are more visible should lay closest to the body so they are less evident in the finished piece.

• Rnd 22: Sc in the next 13sts, now join the left arm to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the right edge stitch of the arm (with the right side facing out) from the front side to the back side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 5sts, on the body: sc in the next 18sts, now join the right arm to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the right edge stitch of the arm (with the right side facing out) from the front side to the back side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 5sts, on the body: sc in the next 5sts. (48sts)

Switch to Color (A) 

• Rnd 23: In the BLO: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
• Rnds 24-28: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 5 Rnds) 

Take a break from making the body for a moment to make the ribbing on the bottom of the sweater. This can also be done once the body is finished, but it is a bit easier to do before the body is stuffed.

>Design Tip: Place a locking stitch marker in the working loop of the body to keep things from unraveling while working on the sweater.  

Adding the Ribbing to the Bottom of the Sweater

Using (Color B) 

• With the bottom of the body facing up, insert the hook towards the bottom in the unworked front loop of Rnd 12 (previously marked with a stitch marker), pull up a loop, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in the same st and in each of the unworked front loops of Rnd 12. (48sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish and weave in the ends.

>Design Option: Now would also be a great time to add additional decorative items to the front of the sweater if desired, like buttons or embroidery.

Return to making the body:

•  Rnds 29-35: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 7 Rnds) 

In the next Rnd, the fronts of the ears and antlers are added seamlessly to the body. All additional st markers can be removed once joined.

• Rnd 36: Sc in the next 19sts, now join the front, left ear to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the 3rd st of the ear (marked with a stitch marker) from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the ear, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the ear and body sts together for the next 2sts, now join the front, left antler to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the 6th st of the antler (marked with a stitch marker) from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the antler, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the antler and body sts together for the next 2sts, on the body: sc in the next 11sts, now join the front, right antler to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the 3rd st of the antler (marked with a stitch marker) from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the antler, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the antler and body sts together for the next 2sts, now join the front, right ear to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the 3rd st of the ear (marked with a stitch marker) from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the ear, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the ear and body sts together for the next 2sts, on the body: sc in the next 6sts. (48sts)

In the next Rnd, the backs of the ears and antlers are added seamlessly to the body.

• Rnd 37: Sc in the next 19sts, now join the back, left ear to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next unworked st on the ear closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the ear, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the ear and body sts together for the next 2sts, now join the back, left antler to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next unworked st on the antler closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the antler, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the antler and body sts together for the next 2sts, on the body: sc in the next 11sts, now join the back, right antler to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next unworked st on the antler closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the antler, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the antler and body sts together for the next 2sts, now join the back, right ear to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next unworked st on the ear closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the ear, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the ear and body sts together for the next 2sts, on the body: sc in the next 6sts. (48sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnd 38: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (42sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 40: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (30sts)
• Rnd 41: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 42: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next st. (18sts)
• Rnd 43: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 44: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

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Hoof and Leg (One Piece)

>Design Note: The leg starts with the hoof and works up the leg. 

Make 2

Using Color (E)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 7sts. (21sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 7sts. (18sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 6sts. (15sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 10: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts. (13sts)
• Rnds 11-12: Sc in each st around. (13sts for 2 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 13: Sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the hoof to this point then leave the remaining portion of the leg unstuffed. 

Form the Hoof: Using a length of Color (E) and a tapestry needle, in the front center of the foot make a couple of vertical stitches in the same place, running from between Rnd 2 and 3 to between Rnd 8 and 9. Pull the stitches taught each time to shape the cloven hoof and secure it once the desired shape is achieved. If preferred, forming the hoof can also be done once the leg is complete.

• Rnds 14-33: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 20 Rnds) 
• Rnd 34: Sc in the next 2sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked. (2sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Make or remove sts to obtain the needed position. 
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the hoof facing forward and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.

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Stocking Cap

>Design Note: The stocking cap is worked top-down in joined rounds. The first st of each Rnd should be made in the same st as the join and ch 1.

>Design Tip: When indicated, make the color change in the final step of the last st of the previous Rnd. (This means that the sl st to join will be made in the new color.) As preferred, the colors not currently in use can be floated along the back or fastened off each time. Weave ends in as appropriate. 

Make 1

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 6hdc in MR, sl st to the 1st st to join. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6hdc in 2nd chain from hook, sl st to the 1st st to join. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: Ch 1, [hdc in the next st, 2hdc in the next st] 3 times, sl st to the first st to join. (9sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 3: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (9sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 4: Ch 1, hdc in the next st, 2hdc in the next st, [hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next st] 2 times, hdc in the next st, sl st to the first st to join. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (12sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 6: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 3sts, 2hdc in the next st] 3 times, sl st to the first st to join. (15sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 7: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (15sts)
• Rnd 8: Ch 1, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next st, [hdc in the next 4sts, 2hdc in the next st] 2 times, hdc in the next 2sts, sl st to the first st to join. (18sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 9: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (18sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 10: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 5sts, 2hdc in the next st] 3 times, sl st to the first st to join. (21sts)
• Rnd 11: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (21sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 12: Ch 1, hdc in the next 3sts, 2hdc in the next st, [hdc in the next 6sts, 2hdc in the next st] 2 times, hdc in the next 3sts, sl st to the first st to join. (24sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 13: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (24sts)
• Rnd 14: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 7sts, 2hdc in the next st] 3 times, sl st to the first st to join. (27sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 15: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (27sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 16: Ch 1, hdc in the next 4sts, 2hdc in the next st, [hdc in the next 8sts, 2hdc in the next st] 2 times, hdc in the next 4sts, sl st to the first st to join. (30sts)
• Rnd 17: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (30sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 18: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 9sts, 2hdc in the next st] 3 times, sl st to the first st to join. (33sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 19: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (33sts)
• Rnd 20: Ch 1, hdc in the next 5sts, 2hdc in the next st, [hdc in the next 10sts, 2hdc in the next st] 2 times, hdc in the next 5sts, sl st to the first st to join. (36sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 21: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (36sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 22: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 11sts, 2hdc in the next st] 3 times, sl st to the first st to join. (39sts)
• Rnd 23: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (39sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 24: Ch 1, hdc in the next 6sts, 2hdc in the next st, [hdc in the next 12sts, 2hdc in the next st] 2 times, hdc in the next 6sts, sl st to the first st to join. (42sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 25: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (42sts)
• Rnd 26: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 13sts, 2hdc in the next st] 3 times, sl st to the first st to join. (45sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 27: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (45sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 28: Ch 1, hdc in the next 7sts, 2hdc in the next st, [hdc in the next 14sts, 2hdc in the next st] 2 times, hdc in the next 7sts, sl st to the first st to join. (48sts)
• Rnd 29: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (48sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 30: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (48sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 31: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (48sts)
• Rnd 32: Ch 1, hdc in the next 12sts, ch 8, skip 8sts, hdc in the next 9sts, ch 8, skip 8sts, hdc in the next 11sts, sl st to the first st to join. (32sts + 16ch)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 33: Ch 1, hdc in the next 12sts, 8hdc in the ch 8 space, hdc in the next 9sts, 8hdc in the ch 8 space, hdc in the next 11sts, sl st to the first st to join. (48sts)

Making the Ribbed Band

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 34: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), dc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (48sts)
• Rnd 35: Ch 2, FPdc around the first dc, BPdc around the next dc, *FPdc around the next dc, BPdc around the next dc. Repeat from * around, sl st to the first st to join. (48sts)
• Rnd 36: Ch 2, FPdc around each FPdc and BPdc around each BPdc around. (48sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish (or alternatively sl st in the first st to join, fasten off). If wanting to secure the beanie to the Crochet Reindeer Gnome’s body so that it cannot be removed, leave a long tail for stitching (optional). 

Making the Pom Pom

• Using a Clover Pom Pom Maker (1-⅝  inch/45 mm) and yarn Color (D), make a pom pom according to the manufacturer’s instructions. >Design Option: A premade pom pom can be used, stitched on using a needle and thread, or omitted altogether. A larger bell would also be a great option.

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Harness

Make 1

Using Color (C)

• Ch 55
• Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: Hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (53sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the band together and tacking the harness to the body. Weave in the starting tail.

Attaching the Bells

Using a sewing needle and coordinating thread, stitch the bells evenly down the center of the harness.

• Suggested Placement: Fold the harness in half so the ends are even, with the right sides facing. In this center fold, stitch the first bell. Then fold the right end to the center bell, and in the center of this new fold stitch another bell. Repeat the same procedure for the left side. Fold the right side bell to touch the center bell, and in the center of this new fold stitch another bell. Repeat the same procedure for the left side. Take the right end and fold it to touch the closest bell, and in the center of this new fold stitch another bell. Repeat the same procedure for the left side. >Design Note: Each of the bells is approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. (7 bells)

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Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Reindeer Gnome and then stitch pieces securely into place using a tapestry needle. 

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Muzzle: Pin the muzzle to the body with the nose centered between the antlers. The bottom of the muzzle sits at about Rnd 24 and the top at about Rnd 35 of the body. 

• Legs: Ensuring that the legs are centered with the Reindeer’s face and arms and are facing forward, pin the legs side by side with the top of the leg at about Rnd 1 at the front of the body. Attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and along each side of the leg for a couple of rows so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.

• Ears: (optional) If desired, use Color (E) to add some additional stitching to the front of the ear. Pictured, a line is stitched in the center of the ear from between Rnds 8 and 9 up to between Rnds 5 and 6. Then a diagonal line is stitched on either side of this line all coming to a point between Rnds 8 and 9 (see image).

• Hands – Forming the Hoof: Using a length of Color (E) and a tapestry needle, at the front center of the arm, make a couple of vertical stitches in the same place, running from the center of the magic circle to between Rnd 4 and 5. Pull the stitches taught each time to shape the cloven hoof and secure it once the desired shape is achieved. 
• Stocking Cap: Place the Stocking cap on the body so that it rests pushed down on the top of the nose. If desired, invisibly tack it to the body in a few places so that it cannot be removed. >Design Tip: When putting the stocking cap on it may be helpful to put the antler and ear from one side into the coordinating hole first, then the antler and ear on the other side, and then pull the hat down into place. Note that the joined section of the stocking cap is the back.
• Harness: Wrap the harness around the neck so the ends meet. Making sure that it’s not twisted and the bells are facing out, use a tapestry needle to whip stitch the edges together. If desired, use the same yarn tail to tack the harness to the back of the body just above the sweater so that it can’t be removed.

>Design Note: For the miniature Reindeer Gnome made with crochet thread, the bells on the harness were omitted, and a 1/2 inch/13 mm jingle bell replaced the pom pom on the hat.

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!