Say hello to Her Royal Highness, the Crochet Queen Bee Gnome. She enjoys being amongst her colony of fellow bees, caring for the hive, feasting on royal jelly and honey, and of course, wearing her royal crown.
She comes with a few options in her design. Make her with or without braids and with either striped or solid legs. She’s very fashionable in her stripes and ruffled skirt, and don’t forget the little details with her antennae and a stinger too.
Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Queen Bee Gnome or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern. You’re going to love making her. Happy Crocheting!
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The Inspiration
The inspiration for the Crochet Queen Bee Gnome came from a variety of things. One, my love for things that flutter and fly, like dragonflies, butterflies, bees, birds……you get the idea. I realized one day that although they’re my favorite I don’t have many of these designs on the blog and decided it was time to remedy that.
Why a gnome? I love them too, and so do so many that come to the blog. They are some of my most loved patterns and I frequently get requests for more of them. Combining these two loves just made sense.
I originally thought that I would make a more traditional bee in gnome fashion, but when I got to actually making the hat I played around with several ideas and decided that she needed a crown, and thus the Crochet Queen Bee Gnome came to be.
I still have other ideas that could be used for a worker bee gnome, but is one bee gnome enough? I guess only the future will tell as a lot of other gnomes (and dolls, and animals, etc.) also wait on an ever-increasing design list, all ready to be brought to life. For now, I hope that you too will enjoy making Her Royal Bee Highness. Happy Crocheting!
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The Yarn
The Crochet Queen Bee gnome was made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft. It’s a worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that is super soft and has a bit of a sheen to it. It comes in a wide range of colors and styles including the regular simply soft solids, collection, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites, stripes, paints, speckles, camos, party, marled, and several more! Truly a wide variety to choose from for any project!
The biggest complaint that I hear about Caron Simply Soft yarn is that it can have a tendency to split. Honestly, I must agree that this can be the case. When I first started using the yarn I had more trouble than I do now.
Once I learned how my hook and crochet style interacted with the yarn I rarely have this issue. In fact, when it comes to acrylic yarns it has become one of my go-to yarns over the years for making amigurumi. I like that it’s a thinner worsted than some yarns and for an acrylic yarn gives good stitch definition.
For this design, I stayed with pretty traditional colors for a bee, but instead of using stark black, I used Charcoal Heather. As the name implies, it is a darker charcoal color so it reads black but isn’t as harsh (or hard on the eyes while crocheting). Honestly, this is a personal preference that I utilize for a lot of my designs. I just prefer the look of black in a bit more muted style (and it’s easier to photograph).
That said, the smaller Crochet Queen Bee Gnome, made from crochet thread, was made in black and even a starker yellow, as a darker grey wasn’t available in the thread. There are just a lot more colors to choose from in yarn compared to crochet thread, but I love making them in the miniature size as well!
Red felt like a wonderfully royal color for the main part of the crown but of course, could be switched out for any color you might prefer. It might even be fun to have the bobble gems differ from the crown color. Thirteen gems, thirteen different colors? I don’t know. Perhaps it depends on how much you like to switch colors and weave in ends. Then again, for amigurumi, those ends can just be tucked inside. So many possibilities!
Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Queen Bee Gnome but note that due to variations among brands that the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching. If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this should work fine too.
You can see in the images that I’ve made the Crochet Queen Bee Gnome in both worsted and crochet thread weights. Other size yarns have not been tested, but should also likely work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.
As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!
The Pattern
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use mostly Clover Amour or Furls Odyssey hooks)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Scissors
- Stuffing
- Pins
- Tapestry Needle
- Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
- Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
- Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g): Color (A) Bone (skin color), used approx. 45 yds/41 m, Color (B), Sunshine, used approx. 55 yds/50 m, Color (D), Off White, used approx. 35 yds/32 m, Color (E), Autumn Red, used approx. 45 yds/41 m
- Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g): Color (C) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 70 yds/64 m
Gauge
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn the Crochet Queen Bee Gnome measures approximately 10.5 inches (27 cm) from the tip of the toe to the top of the crown.
Note: The miniature crochet Queen Bee Gnome in the images was made using the same pattern with a 1.50 mm (steel 7) hook and size 10 crochet thread. It measures approximately 5.5 inches (14 cm) from the tip of the toe to the top of the crown.
Design Notes
- The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
- The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. It will be noted when the pattern switches to joined rounds.
- At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
- Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
- Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern. The first stitch in the new color will typically be a slip stitch to help minimize the stair-step/jogging that occurs with color change. These sl sts are written into the pattern (it counts as the first st and should be worked into in the following round). A regular sc can be substituted if desired.
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
- BLO – work in the back loops only
- bo – bobble (3dcbo and 4dcbo – described below under special stitches)
- camel stitch – working in the 3rd loop of a hdc
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- FLO – work in the front loop only
- hdc – half double crochet
- invisible finish
- rep – repeat
- Rnd(s) – round(s)
- Row(s) – row(s)
- sc – single crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(s)
- [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as many times as directed
- magic circle/adjustable ring
- * – repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed
Special Stitches
Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) and a 4dcbo (four double crochet bobble) are used in this pattern.
To create a 3dcbo
With the working loop on the hook:
- Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
- Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
- Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
- Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
- Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)
To create a 4dcbo
- Repeat 1-9 of the 3dcbo, then
- 10. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
- 11. Yarn over and pull up a loop (six loops on the hook)
- 12. Yarn over and pull through two loops (four legs made, five loops on the hook)
- 13. Yarn over and pull through all five loops. (4dcbo completed)
Camel Stitch
- Work in the 3rd loop of a hdc. The loop is found at the back of the work below the back loop of the stitch.
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Let’s Make Our Crochet Queen Bee Gnome!
Nose
Make 1
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
- Fasten off. Firmly stuff and shape the nose.
Body
Make 1
>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom up.
Using Color (B)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
>Design Tip: In the next Rnd the first st will be a sl st. It could just be made as a sc, but when changing colors while working in continuous Rnds this will help to more seamlessly change colors, decreasing the stair-step/jogging that typically occurs when changing colors. The same technique will be used when making the stripes on the arms and the legs.
>Design Note: As the colors change between Color (B) and Color (C) for the next several Rnds there is no need to cut the yarn each time. Simply drop the unused color and pick it up again when needed.
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 5: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout), sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
Switch to Color (B)
- Rnd 8: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)
- Rnds 9-10: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 11: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
- Rnds 12-13: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)
Switch to Color (B)
- Rnd 14: In BLO: Sc in each st around. With an additional stitch marker, mark the front loop of the 1st stitch of Rnd 13 to be returned to later when making the skirt. (48sts)
- Rnds 15-16: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 17: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
- Rnds 18-19: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)
Switch to Color (A)
- Rnd 20: Sl st in the first st, sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
- Rnds 21-22: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)
In the next 2 Rnds, the nose is added seamlessly to the body. First the bottom of the nose and then the top.
Right: The bottom of the nose is attached seamlessly to the body.
- Rnd 23: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the bottom of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)
Right: The top of the nose is attached seamlessly to the body.
- Rnd 24: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the top of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next unworked st on the nose closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)
- Rnds 25-33: Sc in each st ar ound. (48sts for 9 Rnds)
Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 34: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 7 times, sc in the next 2sts. (40sts)
- Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
- Rnd 36: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 7 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
- Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
- Rnd 38: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
- Rnd 39: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.
Skirt
Using Color (C)
>Design Note: The skirt is worked in joined rounds. The sl st to join each round does not count as a stitch. The first stitch of the next Rnd is worked in the same st as the sl st.
- Rnd 1: With the bottom of the body facing up, insert the hook into the first front loop of Rnd 13 of the body (previously marked with a st marker). [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times, sl st to the first st to join. (60sts)
- Rnd 2: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), 2dc in the same st and in each st around. (120sts)
Switch to Color (B)
- Rnd 3: Sl st to the first st to join, sl st in each st around. (120sts)
- Fasten off using the invisible finish. Weave in the ends.
Hand and Arm
Make 2
Using Color (A)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, 3dcbo in the next st, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts).
- Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the hand.
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 8: Working in the FLO: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
- Rnds 9-11: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 3 Rnds)
Switch to Color (B)
- Rnd 12: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
- Rnds 13-14: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds)
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 15: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
- Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds)
- Rnd 18: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)
Lightly stuff the arm leaving the last couple of Rnds unstuffed.
- Press the tube flat so the top edges line up parallel with the thumb. The 3sts worked in Rnd 18 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed together. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.
Foot and Leg
>Design Note: There are two different options for the Foot and Leg, a solid version and a striped version. Only one set is needed.
Solid Foot and Leg
Make 2
Using Color (C)
- Ch 6
- Rnd 1: Working in the back bar of the chain: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st as the starting st), sc in the next 3sts, 4sc in the last st (corner rounded and the first st on the other side worked), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the last st. (14sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (18sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts. (22sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts. (26sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (26sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 10sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (21sts)
- Rnd 7: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next 5sts. (16sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (12sts)
- Rnd 9: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts. (10sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the foot portion up to Rnd 9, then leave the leg unstuffed as the pattern progresses.
- Rnds 10-29: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 20 Rnds)
- Rnd 30: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 7sts unworked. (3sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Add or remove sts to obtain the needed position.
- Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the foot facing forwards, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (5sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.
Striped Foot and Leg
Make 2
Using Color (C)
- Ch 6
- Rnd 1: Working in the back bar of the chain: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st as the starting st), sc in the next 3sts, 4sc in the last st (corner rounded and the first st on the other side worked), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the last st. (14sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (18sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts. (22sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts. (26sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (26sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in the next 10sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (21sts)
- Rnd 7: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next 5sts. (16sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (12sts)
- Rnd 9: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts. (10sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the foot portion up to Rnd 9, then leave the leg unstuffed as the pattern progresses.
Switch to Color (B)
- Rnd 10: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout), sc the next 9sts. (10sts)
- Rnds 11-12: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 2 Rnds)
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 13: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout), sc the next 9sts. (10sts)
- Rnds 14-15: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 2 Rnds)
Switch to Color (B)
- Rnd 16: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout), sc the next 9sts. (10sts)
- Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 2 Rnds)
- After switching colors, cut the tail for Color (B) and stuff it inside the leg.
Switch to Color (C)
- Rnd 19: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout), sc the next 9sts. (10sts)
- Rnds 20-29: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 10 Rnds)
- Rnd 30: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 7sts unworked. (3sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Add or remove sts to obtain the needed position.
- Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the shoe facing forwards, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (5sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.
Antennae
Make 2
Using Color (C)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (8sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (8sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (6sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the antenna and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 5: [Sc2tog] 2 times, leave the remaining 2sts unworked. (2sts)
The next section of the antenna is worked in turned Rows.
- Rows 6-13: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in each st across. (2sts for 8 Rnds)
- Fasten off leaving an extra long tail for shaping the antenna and stitching it to the crown.
Shaping the Antennae
- Fold the long Row portion of the antenna in half lengthwise towards the previously unworked stitches in the ball portion of the antenna. Using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, whip stitch the edges of the rows together to form a tube (from the base up to the ball portion of the antenna). Then close up the unworked stitches at the base of the ball.
- Weave the tail back down to the base of the antenna to use for stitching it to the crown.
Stinger
Make 1
Using Color (C)
- Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (4sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (4sts)
- Rnd 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts. (5sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts. (6sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (6sts)
- Firmly stuff and shape the stinger.
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the stinger to the body.
Wings
Make 2
Using Color (D)
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (9sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 6-10: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 5 Rnds)
- Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (15sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (9sts)
- Rnd 15: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 3 times. (6sts)
- Ch 1, press the top edges together so the ch 1 is on the right side of the wing and sc both sides together. (3sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the wing to the body.
Braids
Optional
Make 2
>Design Note: The Braid is made as one piece, worked in turned rows. Once constructed, it will have a top base point (2sts in length) which will be stitched to the body, and three separate strands that will be used to create the braid.
Using Color (D)
- Ch 35
- Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (34sts)
- Row 2: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout), sc in the next 2sts, ch 33. (35sts)
- Row 3: Working in the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, twist the work at the top base point to be able to sc in the 2sts from Row 2. (34sts)
- Row 4: Turn, ch 1, sc in the next 2sts, ch 33. (35sts)
- Row 5: Working in the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, twist the work at the top base point to be able to sc in the 2sts from Row 4. (34sts)
- Fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch the braid to the body. Weave in the starting tail.
- Braid the three strands together. Using a long length of Color (E), tack and wrap the base of the braid, leaving about a 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) of the three braided strands sticking out from the bottom of the wrap. Use a tapestry needle to weave the end back into the back side of the wrapping several times to secure it before fastening it off.
>Design Options: The braids can also be tied together using ribbon or a single piece of yarn or string tied in a bow.
Crown
Find the instructions to make the crown HERE.
Assembly
Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Queen Bee Gnome and then stitch them securely into place.
General placement and stitching suggestions:
- Legs: Ensuring that the legs facing forward and centered with the Queen Bee’s nose, pin the legs side by side with the top of the leg at about the front third row of the body. Attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and along each side of the leg for a couple of rows so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.
- Arms: The arms are attached on either side of the body about 10-11 stitches away from the edge of the nose on either side, with the top corner resting at approximately Rnd 19 of the body (the top of the stripes) and the bottom just above the skirt. The thumbs on the hands should be facing up. Look at the Crochet Queen Bee Gnome from the front to ensure that the arms look even before stitching. Stitch the arm to the body along the top of the arm and then, if desired, tack the arm on the underside about 3 Rnds down from the top so the arm remains closer to the body.
- Stinger: Center the stinger at the back of the body over about Rnds 8-10.
- Wings: Stitch the wings on the center back of the Crochet Queen Bee Gnome just above the skirt, with the wings positioned so they angle up forming a bit of a V shape. Stitch along the bottom of the wing and along each side for a couple of rows at the base so it’s firmly attached to the body but most of the wing still moves freely.
- Braids: (optional): The braids can be placed either in the front of the body or to the side and at any length desired. As pictured the top of the braids are placed at about Rnd 33 of the body (approximately 8 Rnds from the top of the body), approximately 2-3 stitches away from the edge of the nose on either side. Stitch the braids to the body along the top of each braid.
- Crown: Follow the assembly instructions for the crown HERE. Then, with the arch that’s centered with the bobble gem, position the crown centered with the nose, and pull the crown down over the body so it rests on the top of the nose. If desired, invisibly tack the crown to the body in several places along the band with the long tail left previously for stitching. Alternatively, the crown can be left removable.
- Antennae: Stitch the base of the antennae to the front of the crown over about Rnds 11-12 of the crown and approximately 4-5sts away from either side edge of the front arch, spaced equally in relation to the nose.
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Copyright and Use Policy
This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!
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