I’m so excited to share my latest project with you, the Crochet Puppy Dog!
I’ve labeled this pattern as an advanced intermediate pattern because of some of the techniques that are used, but I’ve included pictures to help with these trickier spots and I’m only an email away if you get stuck! So give it a try and let me know what you think!
And can I say that I’m absolutely in love with how versatile this pattern is? It’s awesome to be able to go from a short-haired dog to a furry long-haired dog all within the same pattern!
Honestly, I’ve had so much fun with this pattern that I already have a couple more variations in the works to share with you sometime in the future! So many possibilities!
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The Inspiration
The inspiration for the Crochet Puppy Dog is two-fold. For some time now I’ve wanted to design an animal that was in a sitting position with the feet out in front of it.
However, not only this. I also wanted the body and legs to be more seamless, as compared to a body with individual legs sewn on in front.
Originally I thought this animal would be a lion (hint, hint, you might just see this in the future because I still think it would be really cool), however, when my husband came home from work a couple of months ago and told me that one of his coworker’s dogs had passed away and wondered if we could work together to design a crochet dog for her, I was all game.
When he requested that it be in a sitting position I knew that it was time to make this design goal a reality. We discussed, sketched, and planned out the design and then I got to work with actually making it.
With each iteration, we discussed what was happening and I made the changes. It was awesome!
Working with him totally pushed me to make a better design and although frogging is never too fun it made for a far better design in the end.
On what I believe was about the fifth iteration of the project we had a design to be proud of.
With a solid dog pattern base that we both felt could stand alone by itself, I started to loop the yarn onto the body to create fur. I’ll tell you now.
This is definitely a process that would be great for a movie-a-
With the body all covered we were left with a huge fall of fluff that needed trimming. It made us both quite nervous, but in the end, the trimming was done and we can both say that we are happy with the result.
The Yarn
We knew when we started the pattern that the end result we wanted would be to create a fluffy dog.
I’ve used Red Heart Super Saver Yarns many times in the past for looping amigurumi hair, so I had a good idea how it would behave, therefore it was my yarn of choice this time.
Feel free to try other yarns but when choosing I recommend keeping in mind how it looks naturally on the skein.
Does it already have sort of a fluffy look to it or is it more thin and straight?
In the end, it really depends on the look that you’re going for, but if you’re making the fluffy dog then starting out with a fluffier yarn is going to help that process proceed more quickly.
The Pattern
Difficulty
Advanced Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Scissors
- Stuffing
- Tapestry Needle
- Pins
- Safety Eyes, 15 mm (I used brown)
- Safety Nose, 20 mm (I purchased mine locally at Hobby Lobby but they look like these ones for reference)
- Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing
- Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g):
- Regular Dog: Color (A) Soft White OR Aran OR Color of choice, used approx. 239 yds/219 m
- Fluffy Dog: Color (A) Soft White OR Aran, yards, used approx. 499 yds/456 m, Color (B) Black OR Cafe Latte, used approx. 230 yds/186 m
- Collar: Color (C) Ranch Red OR Royal OR Dark Orchid OR Color of choice, used approx. 10 yds/9 m, Color (D) Black, used approx. 3 yds/3 m
Gauge
Gauge is not essential to this project, but tension should be maintained.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) from the base to the top of the head, measurement is approximately 9.5 inches (24 cm) tall.
Design Notes
- This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. I chose to use a size E crochet hook. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing show through. If a different sized hook works better for you, then, by all means, use it! Do note, however, that if you change the hook size or the type of yarn you are using, that this will have an effect on the size and look of your finished item.
- This pattern is written in rounds, except for a portion of the hind legs. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up as you start each additional round.
- At the end of each round, I will note in parenthesis how many stitches you should have once completed.
- Further design notes will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction. It will be important to read them.
- The first part of the pattern will give instructions on how to make the dog without the fur and then if desired, how to add more yarn to this base to make it furry.
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- ch – Chain
- Rnd(s) – Round(s)
- Rows – Rows
- sc – Single crochet
- sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (I use the invisible decrease when working in the Rnd)
sl st – Slip stitch- st(s) – Stitch(s)
- [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
- magic circle/adjustable ring
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Let’s Make Our Puppy Dog!
Body
Using Color A, Make 1
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (36sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (42sts)
- Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (48sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (54sts)
- Rnd 10: Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next] 5times, sc in the next 19sts (60sts)
- Rnds 11-12: Sc in each st around (60sts for 2Rnds)
- Rnd 13: Sc in the next 23sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 2times, sc in the next 19sts (57sts)
- Rnds 14-17: Sc in each st around (57sts for 4Rnds)
- Rnd 18: Sc in the next 22sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 2times, sc in the next 19sts (54sts)
- Rnds 19-22: Sc in each st around (54sts for 4Rnds)
- Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times (48sts)
- Rnds 24-26: Sc in each st around (48sts for 3Rnds)
- Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times (42sts)
- Rnds 28-29: Sc in each st around (42sts for 2Rnds)
- Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times (36sts)
- Rnds 31-32: Sc in each st around (36sts for 2Rnds)
- Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.
- Shape and firmly stuff your piece.
Front Legs
Using Color A, Make 2
>Design Note: You will be making two front legs. For the first leg, you will fasten off when noted to do so. With the second leg, you will NOT fasten off.
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (30sts for 3Rnds)
- Rnd 9: [Sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 20sts (25sts)
- Rnd 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 20sts (23sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 19sts (21sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc2tog, sc in the next 19sts (20sts)
Begin to firmly stuff and shape your piece and continue to do so as you progress.
- Rnds 13-21: Sc in each st around (20sts for 9Rnds)
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail if making Leg 1 and set it aside. If making Leg 2 continue as directed below.
- Rnd 22: Sc in the next 6sts, leave the remaining stitches unworked (6sts)
>Design Note: These 6 stitches should make it so your hook is now at the front inner side of the leg so that when you place the other leg next to it you will be able to join them together nicely. You should be able to join to the 2nd to last st on Leg 1 (stitch number 19) and have both feet facing forward. If this is not the case then it’s likely that our tensions are different. Not a big deal, simply add or remove stitches until you are lined up as described.
- Rnd 23: Join Leg 2 to Leg 1 with a sc into st 19 of Leg 1 (Two stitches back from where you originally fastened off). Mark this stitch! This is the new starting point for the round. You can remove any other stitch markers that you may have in your work, sc in the remaining 19sts on Leg 1. You’re now going to join back onto Leg 2 with a sc in the st right next to where you attached to Leg 1 and then in each of the remaining 19sts (40sts total)
>Design Note: There will likely be a small hole in between the two pieces where they were joined. You’ll take care of this in a moment.
- Rnds 24-25: Sc in each st around (40sts for 2Rnds)
>Design Note: If on Rnd 24 you happen to be coming up one st short, watch out for st number 21 at the center back. With the
- Now is a good time to use the tail you left when you fastened off Leg 1 and use it to sew up the little hole between the legs.
Attaching the Legs and Body Together
Okay, now you’re going to attach the legs to the body. You’re going to skip 10sts on the body and 10sts on the legs. To do this you’re going to need to figure out a few placement points. Get two stitch markers ready and I’ll walk you through it.
Determining Where to Place Your Stitch Markers
On the body, we want to skip the front 10 sts. You’re going to use the tail on your body to help determine which 10 sts. With the tail being the center front st, count out in both directions from the tail for a total of 10sts. Place one stitch marker in the first st you will skip and another in the tenth st you will skip.
Okay, now you can set the body aside for a minute while you work on the legs. For this, you’re going to begin Rnd 26 to help identify the 10sts that you’re going to skip.
- Rnd 26: Sc in the next 15 sts, stop and count sts 16-25, put a stitch marker in the 16th and the 25th st (your 10 skipped sts), now pick up your body and line up your skipped sts. Sc into the st directly left of your stitch marker on the body and then in each st around the body until you get to your second stitch marker (a total of 26sts between the stitch markers on the body and 41sts total for the row thus far).
Now you’re going to join the body back onto the other side of the legs.
- Rnd 26 continued: Sc into the st directly left of the stitch marker on the leg, and
sc each of the remaining 14sts. (56sts total)
>Design Note: You can now remove all the stitch markers other than the one that marks your first stitch of the round.
- Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 8 times (48sts)
>Design Note: The sts where you joined to the body/leg may look smaller/different than those around them. If your stitch count is off you may be accidentally passing over them.
- Rnd 28: Sc in each st around (48sts)
- Okay, now you’re going to take a minute to stitch the body and legs together at the point where you skipped the 10 stitches. I used the tail left on the body. On the inside of your dog (as opposed to the right side) work through the top
sts on both the body and the legs and whip stitch them together. Because the tail is in the middle you will need to work one direction, weave back to the center and then stitch up the other side, or get a new length of yarn and stitch it up. - Rnds 29-30: Sc in each st around (48sts for 2Rnds)
- Rnd 31: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 22sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts (44sts)
- Rnd 32: Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 21sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts (42sts)
- Rnd 33: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 14 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts (37sts)
- Rnd 34: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 17sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts (35sts)
Continue to firmly stuff and shape the body cavity as you go.
- Rnd 35: Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 18sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts (33sts)
- Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts (30sts)
- Rnd 37: Sc in each st around (30sts)
- Sl st to the first st, fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the head to the body.
Head
Using Color A, Make 1
The head is worked top-down.
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (36sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (42sts)
- Rnd 8 [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (48sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (54sts)
- Rnds 10-12: Sc in each st around (54sts for 3Rnds)
- Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (60sts)
- Rnds 14-20: Sc in each st around (60sts for 7Rnds)
- Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 6 times (54sts)
- Rnds 22-24: Sc in each st around (54sts for 3Rnds)
- Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times (48sts)
- Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times (42sts)
- Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times (36sts)
>Design Note: Now would be a great time to insert your eyes. I place mine between Rnds 14 and 15 and about 8sts apart. Note that getting the 15 mm posts through the tightly crocheted fabric was a bit of a wrestling match. Be determined to win! It helped me to take my chopstick and insert it into the space where I wanted the eye to go so that is expanded some, but even then, there was a bit of a struggle to get the post through. Using smaller eyes is an option, but my preference was the look of the 15 mm sized eye.
Now that your eyes are inserted and in place, firmly shape and stuff
- Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 31: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
- Rnd 32: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
- Sl st to the first st, fasten off, leave a tail for stitching up the hole.
> Design Tip: I think the hole closes more nicely if you close it with your tapestry needle, working in the front loops only and work with your needle from the inside of the hole out in each stitch around until the hole is completely closed. Tie off. Bury your yarn end and cut off any excess.
Muzzle
Using Color A, Make 1
- Ch 6
- Rnd 1: Working around both sides of the chain, starting by working in the back bars of the chain, 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 3sts, 3sc in the last st (you’ve now rounded the corner and completed the first st on the other side of the chain),
sc in the next 4sts (12sts) - Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st (16sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st (20sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 10 times (30sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next st (40sts)
- Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (40sts for 3Rnds)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 5times (35sts)
- Sl st to the first
st , fasten off, leaving a tail for stitching the muzzle to the face.
Ears
Using Color A, Make 2
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around (24sts for 2Rnds)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnds 8-11: Sc in each st around (30sts for 4Rnds)
- Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnds 13-20: Sc in each st around (24sts for 8Rnds)
- Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 2 times (22sts)
- Rnd 22: Sc in each st around (22sts)
- Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 2 times (20sts)
- Rnd 24: Sc in each st around (20sts)
- Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 2 times (18sts)
- Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 2 times (16sts)
- Hold the top edges together and sc them together (8sts)
- Fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching to the head.
Hind Legs
Right Leg
Using Color A, Make 1
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (30sts for 3Rnds)
- Rnd 9: [Sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 20sts (25sts)
- Rnd 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 20sts (23sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 19sts (21sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc2tog, sc in the next 19sts (20sts)
Begin to firmly stuff and shape your leg. Continue to do so as you go.
- Rnds 13-18: Sc in each st around (20sts for 6Rnds)
>Design Note: The rest of the leg will be worked in rows. Turn and ch1 at the end of each row
- Row 19: Sc in the next 12 sts, leave the remaining sts unworked
>Design Note: The 12sts that you just worked should be from about the front center to the back center of the piece.
- Row 20: Sc in the next 11sts, leave the last st unworked (11sts)
- Rows 21-22: Sc in each st across (11sts for 2 Rows)
- Row 23: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
- Row 24: Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
- Row 25: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (5sts)
- Row 26: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (3sts)
- Fasten off. Leave a tail for attaching the leg to the body.
Left Leg
Using Color A, Make 1
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
- Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (30sts for 3Rnds)
- Rnd 9: [Sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 20sts (25sts)
- Rnd 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 20sts (23sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 19sts (21sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc2tog, sc in the next 19sts (20sts)
Begin to firmly stuff and shape your leg. Continue to do so as you go.
- Rnds 13-19: Sc in each st around (20sts for 7Rnds)
>Design Note: You should now be positioned just right to center front.
>Design Note: The rest of the leg will be worked in rows. Turn and ch1 at the end of each row
- Row 20: Turn, ch1, sc in the next 11sts, leave the rest unworked (11sts)
- Rows 21-22: Sc in the next 11sts (11sts for 2 Rows)
- Row 23: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
- Row 24: Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
- Row 25: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (5sts)
- Row 26: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (3sts)
- Fasten off. Leave a tail for attaching the leg to the body.
Tail
Using Color A, Make 1
- Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle (5sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook (5sts)
- Rnd 2: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st (6sts)
- Rnd 3: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st (7sts)
- Rnd 4: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st (8sts)
- Rnd 5: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st (9sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (9sts)
Begin to stuff and shape your tail. Continue to do so as you go.
- Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st (10sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in each st around (10sts)
- Rnd 9: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st (11sts)
- Rnd 10: Sc in each st around (11sts)
- Rnd 11: Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st (12sts)
- Rnd 12: Sc in each st around (12sts)
- Rnd 13: Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st (13sts)
- Rnd 14: Sc in each st around (13sts)
- Rnd 15: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st (14sts)
- Rnd 16: Sc in each st around (14sts)
- Rnd 17: Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st (15sts)
- Sl st to the first
st , fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching to the body.
Assembly
>Design Tip: One of the biggest tricks to assembling amigurumi, in my opinion, is pinning your pieces and then taking the time needed to ensure that you are stitching them on in a way that you are happy with them. I’ll give you some general ideas of where I placed my pieces, but ultimately, do what looks best to you.
>Design Tip: Remember when attaching your pieces to add more stuffing each time right before closing to eliminate having a gap with no stuffing between the joined pieces.
Muzzle
Before pinning and attaching the muzzle you’ll want to make sure to add your safety nose. I placed my nose between Rnd 3 and 4 in a central position. The actual muzzle I placed about one row below the eyes.
Add stuffing to your muzzle. I stuffed mine a little and then pinned it to the face for placement. After stitching for a while I added more stuffing until I was overall pleased with the appearance and firmness.
Ears
I pinned my ears on the top of the head approximately five rounds out in either direction from the very center. The ears are NOT stuffed.
Tail
I placed the bottom part of the tail at Rnd 10 of the body.
Hind Legs
The hind legs were probably the trickiest part for me to get placed evenly. What I found that helped me the most was to place my dog on a solid surface, like a tabletop, and look at it directly from the front. This way I could see how both legs were positioned in comparison to each other.
With the hind legs, you will want to stitch all the way around the part that was worked in rows and the top part of the last round where it was left unworked. Right before closing up the leg, add stuffing to the area that was worked in rows.
Making A Fluffy Dog
>Design Tip: It will likely be helpful to read through this entire section before beginning so you have a better idea of the entire process and then move forward as you think best.
I’ll tell you now, turning your dog into a fluffy dog is a labor of love. It’s going to take some time, but in my opinion, it’s worth it!
If you haven’t already done so, start by completing and assembling the dog pattern above. The next step involves cutting a whole lot of lengths of yarn. My lengths of yarn are approximately 5 inches (13 cm) long. The easiest way to do this is to cut a piece of cardboard (a cereal box will do) to 2.5 inches (6 cm) tall by 5 inches (13 cm) wide.
The width of the cardboard can actually be as long or as short as you wish. You’ll be rapping your yarn around the height of the cardboard and then cutting it off the cardboard in one place, leaving pieces that are about 5 inches (13 cm) in length.
Personally, I placed my yarn tail at the bottom of the cardboard rectangle, wrapped it around about 50 times and then slipped my scissors between the cardboard and the yarn at the very bottom and cut it there. This way no yarn was wasted.
How many lengths of yarn will you need? Well, this will vary some. I advise you to think about the pattern that you want on your dog. Perhaps you have a dog and you’d like to mimic their pattern. You could also look online at dogs, or just make up your own.
Call me crazy, but I went ahead and counted the strands as I went to give you an idea of how many I used in my design. Exactly how many you need may vary widely, so it may be a good idea to cut quite a few to get you started and then cut more as you go along. For the brown and tan dog, I cut 1,734 strands of Color A and 1,418 strands of Color B. Like I said, a labor of love because now that they’re cut it’s time to loop them onto the dog, but it’s gonna be worth it!
I’m going to give you a general idea of my process for looping, but if you find a better method, by all means, use it.
I personally started my loops around the eyes and the nose, using Color B. This is a tricky area to work around because the eyes and nose are attached there. Work as closely as you can, even sticking your hook under the edges if you can, all the way around, trying to completely fill in the space. Personally, my goal was to not have any Color A showing through.
Once this is done you can really start working wherever you want. Personally, I just continued working on the face and head in a combination of Color A and Color B (as I’d decided based on my desired pattern) and then moved out to the other parts of the body. The whole bottom portion of my dogs are worked in Color A so I opted to fill in most of this color first and then went in with Color B.
Let’s Talk About How to Make Loops
- Picture 1: The loops are placed around one complete stitch in a row. Determine where the loop will be placed, insert the hook from the bottom of the stitch, around the back, and back up at the top of the stitch. Fold the length of yarn in half and hook it onto the hook.
- Picture 2: Pull the length of yarn through the stitch about halfway.
- Picture 3: Remove the hook and take the loop, placing it up over both of the yarn tails.
- Picture 4: Pull on the yarn tails at the same time to tighten and secure the loop.
Let’s Talk About Yarn Loop Placement
Other than right around the eyes and the nose where I placed Color B as solidly as possible, I worked the rest of the loops around every other row of stitches for the most part. I felt this provided adequate coverage and fluffiness. If a spot looked a little bare than I added a few loops along parts of the skipped row, but not complete rows. That said if you want an even fluffier dog simply add more loops everywhere.
There were a few spots that I opted to leave unworked completely. The first of these was the 5Rnds on the bottom of each of the feet. The second is underneath each of the ears. For the ear, I worked 2sts on either edge of the underside of the ear and then a couple of complete rows at the very bottom, but I then left the rest of the middle underside of the ear alone.
Let’s Talk About Blending
To me, stopping Color A and just beginning with Color B looked too abrupt in some ways. To eliminate this and to create a “blend” with the yarns, about 2 rows before I switched to Color B I worked those two (or so) rows differently. I kept them primarily Color A, but every third stitch or so I made it Color B. Then on the next row I did the same thing but made sure not to line up any of the Color B stitches. After this, I switched fully to Color B to finish out my desired pattern. Blending accomplished!
Another thing I did when I wasn’t quite satisfied with how the blending looked was to loop in either Color A or Color B (depending on what was needed to make a better blend) onto some of the stitches in the rows that were skipped.
Trimming
This part is both fun and a bit messy. Be prepared to have yarn fluff everywhere! How you decide to sculpt your dog is going to be left up to you for the most part, but I’ll give you a few tips.
- Get a clear picture in your head (and even better an actual picture) of how you want your dog to look.
- Start with the face and then the front legs. Once satisfied with these, move on to other parts.
- Trimming less and in multiple passes is probably always the best idea. The hair obviously won’t grow back so if you take off small bits at a time as opposed to large, deep chunks it’s easier to fix if needed. That said if you totally dislike an area that you cut you can make more loops and switch them out, but this likely won’t be too fun.
- Use your initial trimming passes to add shape to your dog and then focus on more detailed trimming.
- Sometimes it’s hard to know when to stop. Take your time. Walk away if you’re feeling frustrated or don’t know exactly what you want to do next.
- Have fun! All dogs look different. Yours will be unique no matter what!
Collar
Regular Dog’s Collar
Using Color C, Make 1
The size of collar you make will depend on if you made a regular dog or if you made a fluffy dog. It’s easy to adjust the collar to any size you choose.
>Design Note: Leave a long starting tail for stitching.
- Ch 4
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across (3sts)
- Rows 2-50: turn, ch1, sc in each st across (3sts for 49 Rows)
Measure the collar around the dog’s neck. It should go around with a small amount of slack and overlap about 12 rows or so. Add or subtract rows as necessary.
- Row 51: Sc2tog, sc in the last st (2sts)
- Row 52: Sc2tog (1st)
- Fasten off. Weave in this tail.
>Design Option: Add three French knots (or whip stitches) evenly spaced onto the collar piece on the pointy end to imitate holes in the collar. Mine
Loop Strap
Using Color D, Make 1
- Ch2
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (1st)
- Rows 2-11: turn, ch1, sc (1st for 10 Rows)
- Fasten off. Leave a tail for stitching the loop together.
- Weave in the first tail. Form into a loop and stitch closed.
- Weave in the end.
- Slide the black loop onto the collar.
- Stitch collar around your
dog’s neck at about Row 43 of the collar. Make sure it isn’t twisted! - Slip the flap with the French knots through the loop.
Fluffy Dog’s Collar
Using Color C, Make 1
>Design Note: Leave a long starting tail for stitching.
- Ch 4
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across (3sts)
- Rows 2-71: turn, ch1, sc in each st across (3sts for 70 Rows)
Measure the collar around the dog’s neck. It should go around with a small amount of slack and overlap about 12 rows or so. Add or subtract rows as necessary.
- Row 72: Sc2tog, sc in the last st (2sts)
- Row 73: Sc2tog (1st)
- Fasten off. Weave in this tail
>Design Option: Add three French knots (or whip stitches) evenly spaced onto the collar piece on the pointy end to imitate holes in the collar. Mine
Loop Strap
- Same pattern as for the Regular Dog’s Collar above.
Looking for more great patterns?
These may be of interest! 1. Braided Bobble Crochet Bag 2. Ridged Crochet Feathers in Four Sizes 3. Simple Amigurumi Penguin
Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!
As always, I’d love to see your creation if you’re willing to share! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, Instagram (@jenhayescreations use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!
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Copyright and Use Policy
This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using my social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you.
This is the cutest dog pattern I have seen yet!!! You did a fabulous job!!!
Thank you. They were really fun to design, make, and watch come together, especially after the furry guys got a trim!
Wow, congratulations for your devotion to the project…it takes a lot of time and patience,also writing about every single detail ! Thank you! 🙏
💜
You’re so very welcome. I’m glad that you like the project.
Labor of love it it! Wow, this just amazes me. The details are amazing! I’m sure having these instructions will be a blessing to all! Just wish I could do it!
Amazing:)
Thank you. It’s fun to be able to share with others.
Fabulous indeed ❤🌷
Thank you. I’m glad that you like it.
Wow the seamless design gives it such a lifelike appearance! What a great design.
Thank you! 🙂
Oh man, he is SoOOO cute!
Thank you! I’m glad that you like him. 🙂
Con un po’ di pazienza ci sono riuscita .Grazie per il tuo aiuto e grazie
I’m so glad to hear this! 🙂
Love the design
Thanks!
I loved it! Can you explain how to fix the loops on the cute dog
They’re attached the same as you would put tassels on the end of a scarf by putting your hook through a stitch and then looping and tightening. Once that is finished for the entire dog, then the trimming starts. Hope that answers your question. Let me know if it doesn’t. It’s a labor of love, one strand done at a time, but I love the results!
Yes, perfect, I get it. Thanks
Great! If you need anything else please let me know.
Maybe you could use a latch hook like from a latch hook rug kit? Just a thought…
That’s a good thought. I loved doing rug kits as a kid! You could definitely give it a try, but I think that the hook would get caught up on the dog while trying to loop. If you decide to try it I’d love to hear about your experience!
I wish i had found this earlier! I just made a bear using eyelash yarn and it was so difficult to work with. I crocheted the bear using regular yarn and only stitched in the back loops so i would have something easy to surface crotchet the fun fur into. I ended up using a slip stitch to attach it but it wasn’t easy. I’m going to try this method next, thank you!
Eyelash yarn can be tricky to work with but I bet your bear turned out super cute! The method of looping the yarn can be time consuming but it’s a technique that has a lot of uses. When you get a chance to try it let me know what you think!
I just finished making this dog. I tried to get the colors like my own dog.
How fun! I love it when you can personalize a project!
gracias por compartir el patron, muy buena explicacion!! hermoso trabajo!! gracias
You’re very welcome! I’m so glad you like it.
I just had a question…on your front legs; leg 2: do we start Rnd 22 or do we go back to Rnd 1 then follow the instruction
With the front legs, for the first leg you will work Rnds 1-21, fasten off leaving a long tail, and set it aside. The second leg you will work just like the first leg, starting at Rnd 1, but then continue on without fastening off through Rnd 22 and beyond where you will join the legs together, fasten them to the body, and create the rest of the body. I hope this helped to answer your question. If you need any more help don’t hesitate to ask.
Hi Jen. Just to confirm what your understanding of in the round. Is this like a spiral or sl St into first stitch and start a new round please. Then secondly around which rounds is the muzzle attached
PS this is such a cute puppy love the easy pattern but sorry just need clarity many thanks
I’m so glad that you are enjoying the pattern. When working in the round it is working in a continuous spiral. It will help to move your stitch marker up each time you come back around to it to keep track of what round you are on. As for attaching the muzzle and other parts in the pattern I give more specifics under the title “Assembly” in the post. This is the information for the muzzle: “Before pinning and attaching the muzzle you’ll want to make sure to add your safety nose. I placed my nose between Rnd 3 and 4 in a central position. The actual muzzle I placed about one row below the eyes.” If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask.
Many thanks. I misunderstood in the round and therefore positioning wasn’t correct. Spiral placing is perfect. I’ve completed the parts of the dog. Kind of pinned and need to place hind legs (yes the tricky bit). He looks adorable
Yay!!! I’m so excited! 🙂
Hi Jen I love this pattern I’m kind of stuck on where we attach the legs to the body .I placed my makerrs on st 16 and 25 on the legs , now we attach to body , so I attached the leg to the body into the stitch went around the body , got to the other maker, Now do I continue (im confused to where it says now we are going to join the body back onto the other side of legs) , does that mean continue now to the front of the legs? also where it says Rnd 26 continued and sc each of the remaining 14 st. sorry that i’m confused because your directions are really great it’s just me i guess, if you could help me out I would really appreciate it . Thank you for your time.
Nina, let me see if I can explain this. After I do, if it’s still unclear for any reason don’t hesitate to reach out again with your questions and I’ll try to explain it in another way. I’m glad to help!
We’re going to use the four pictures in the post depicting and explaining the join along with the instructions in Rnd 26 to help us communicate what needs to be done. 🙂 I’m going to talk you through the whole round from the beginning just to make sure that we have everything set up properly. (And to potentially help others that may also find this part to be tricky and need some help).
As you said, you’ve placed your markers on your body (shown in the upper left image). The skipped stitches on the body include the two marked stitches and the eight stitches between them in the front for a total of 10sts. On the back side of these marked stitches there should be 26sts between the markers. Then you set the body aside for a moment to figure out the stitches that will be skipped on the legs.
You’ve completed the upper right image where you’ve crocheted the first 15sts on the leg and marked stitch number 16 and 25 on the legs (these two marked stitches and the 8sts in between them are the 10 stitches that will match up with the skipped body stitches) (Note: for reference if needed, the coral stitch marker in the picture is the starting point of the round). In the upper right image you’ve also picked the body back up and have lined up the skipped body and leg sts (If it’s helpful you can actually use your stitch markers to physically attach the body and legs together at these stitches). The upper right image also shows the location of the first sc stitch you’ll make on the body to begin joining the legs and the body together. (The working loop is on the hook from making the first 15sts on the leg and then a sc is made on the body in the depicted st in the photo). Then you’ve single crocheted around the back of the body for 25 more sts (26 total sts between the marked sts on the body + the 15sts you made on the leg for a total of 41sts to this point).
Okay. So now you’ve reached the second stitch marker on the body and are ready to join the body to the other side of the legs. The bottom left image shows this step. You have the working loop still on your hook from working around the back of the body. Now insert the hook into the stitch directly left of the stitch marker on the leg as shown in the picture. (Remember that the 10 sts between the stitch markers are skipped so knowing this it should be pretty clear which side to join into). The remaining 14sts are those sts on the leg that are yet to be worked in the round. Once they are completed you should be back at the stitch marker that marks the beginning/ending of a round (in my case the coral st marker I noted above). You should have worked a total of 56sts (15 on the leg + a joining st + the 25 around the back of the body + a joining st + the 14 sts on the other leg = 56). After completing Rnd 27 and 28 the bottom right picture shows whip stitching the skipped sts together.
I hope that helps. Like I said, if you are still not understanding or have further questions don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m always glad to help. 🙂
Have u made a video of attaching leg? That would help me a lot!
I really appreciate your feedback. I don’t have video yet, but it is something that I’m working on, however it will be a while yet. I’m glad to help you figure it out now though if you have specific questions.
I absolutely love this puppy. You did amazing job. It is a labour of love for sure, time consuming but worth it. I decided to comb my pup and it is very life like with the good eyes and detailed nose. THANK YOU ♡
You totally made my day. I’m so glad that you enjoyed it so much. Best wishes to you!
Hello Jen
Love this pattern. It was lots of fun to make up. Thanks for making it available for free. I just crocheted myself a little dog in tribute to Benny, my cocker spaniel, who passed away late last year. I still miss him so much. Crocheting this little guy, however, was very cathartic. Thanks again.
I’m sorry for your loss. It’s so hard to lose those we love. I’m glad that you enjoyed the pattern and were able to create a puppy dog in his memory. Also, thank you for reaching out and sharing this with me too. You totally made my night. Take care and may God bless and comfort you.
hi this was so cute, but I can’t understand…can u post it in vedio format?
I’m so glad that you like it! I don’t have video at the moment, but it is something that I am working towards having in the future. Thank you for letting me know that this is something that would interest you. Take care!
Jen, I wanted to thank you for an awesome experience. This is the first amigurumi I have ever made and your pattern, instructions, advice, and helpful hints were so easy to understand and follow. I am super happy with the way my little Covey 2020 (quarantine project) turned out. Thank you for making this such a joy for me.
I was so happy with him that I didn’t want to mess him up with the added ‘fur’, but I am considering making another one with it. It’s so darn cute. Can you give me an idea of how much yarn is needed for just the fur? Will one skein be enough?
Hey Janice! Sorry that it took me a bit to get back to you. Your comment got kicked to my spam folder for some reason. It sure made my day when I found it wading through the other stuff in there! I’m so glad that you had such a great experience and I am honored that you chose the puppy dog as your first amigurumi! Congrats! 🙂
I totally understand the hesitation to add fur. I would probably do just like you and make a second one. In all honesty, it will be a labor of love making all the loops and attaching them, but the results are so fun!
Now to answer your question:
The base dog takes approximately 239 yards to make. After that, the fur takes about 260 yards of Color (A) and 230 yards of Color (B), so a total of 490 yards for the fur alone. If using Red Heart Super Saver like noted in the pattern (364 yards to a skein) you will need 2 skeins of Color (A) and 1 skein of Color (B) to finish your entire dog (with leftovers for each of the colors). Do note that this could vary if you decide to do that patches differently on your dog. So plan on one skein to make the dog and two skeins for just the fur (3 total).
Also, if using a yarn substitution make sure to check the yardage on the skein label to determine the number of skeins that you will need. For the Main Color (A) you will want about 499 yards total and for the Contrast Color (B) you will want about 230 yards total.
Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any more questions, I’m glad to help. Best wishes and happy crocheting!
Thank you Jen. One last question about the hairy pup, I can’t tell from the picture. Do you do the loop yarn over the entire body, or leave the underbelly undone as a real furry dog is?
Thank you again for sharing this pattern.
My entire dog has loops on it, but you’ll find as you’re reading the basic guidelines for the furry dog that I actually only add loops to about every other row and more as needed in certain places. Ultimately I don’t give exact instructions, just guidelines I thought would be helpful from making mine. So if you like the underbelly without loops then do it! Those who have shared their furry puppies with me have used a wide variety of options. It’s so fun to see! I’m always glad to help. Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have more questions!
Thank you so much again. Your hints are so helpful. I will try a bare tummy first. I can always add, like you said 😁. I think you will have a lot more followers soon. I am about to post my puppy’s picture on FB.
Thank you so much, Janice. I appreciate your support! You’ve totally made my day. I’m glad that you’re enjoying the pattern!
Hello!!
My English is not very good. Sorry if I write some wrongs.
I want to say you, thank you for the pattern!! It was my inspiration to make a beagle dog. You are very good in this.
I am learning to make amigurumis and you explain very very well the process!!
Thank you for this page and your time for create it.
Thank you Natalia for your kind words. I’m so glad that you are enjoying the pattern. Best wishes on making your beagle!
I have to say again Jen, that your directions deserve an A++. They are so easy to follow and everything is covered so we aren’t left guessing about certain steps. I have never seen another pattern with such perfect step by step directions. Thank you so much for being my teacher for what has become an obsession with me. Following your puppy, I made a kitten and a squirrel. Love these little guys.
Thank you so much, Janice. This makes my heart so happy to hear. Welcome to the amigurumi obsession! 🙂
Hi mam, Thank u for the pattern 1st and just now I’m trying this pattern…I’m confused in making Hind legs..Is there vedio tutorial? or can u post the photo tutorial ? Thank u
I don’t currently have a video for this pattern. I am happy to help you work through it if you would like to share specific questions that you have.
Thanks for the beautiful puppy dog crochet. It looks so real. I wanted to make one and started it but I am confused in right hind leg. I finished Rnds 13-18. In row 19: 12sts. Leave the remaining stitches uncorked.
But your note mentioned that rest of the leg will be worked in rows. Turn and ch1 at the end of each row. But row 20: sc in the next 11sts, leave the last st unworked .
Can please post a picture like you are joining the body to the front legs. The picture helped me to attach the body and the leg. Thanks. I am stuck at row 20:
I am looking forward to your help. This is the first time I am using your web site.
Love the puppy dog crochet. Thanks again for sharing your talent.
Welcome! I’m glad that you found my site and are working on a puppy dog! I say this about nearly every project, but the puppy is truly one of my most favorites! It was definitely one of my most involved pieces getting those front legs to join as one piece with the body. I’d love to see yours when you finish if you don’t mind sharing, it’s always so exciting to see!
Let’s take a look at the hind legs. If you then have more questions or something is still unclear after reading this don’t hesitate to ask.
As you said, after Rnd 18 the leg switches to being worked in Rows. So in Row 19 you single crocheted in the next 12sts and then left the rest of the sts from Rnd 18 unworked in preparation to keep working in Rows. Now you’ll only be looking at those 12 sts that you just worked in Row 19 as you move onto Row 20 and finish the rest of the leg. After Row 19 you Ch 1 and turn as directed, and then for Row 20: Sc in the next 11sts and leave the last st unworked (11sts worked total for Rnd 20). So now you’re only looking at the 11sts that you worked as you move onto Rows 21-22 in which you sc across those 11sts. From there you continue to decrease with each row as directed in the pattern so you’re working with fewer and fewer stitches each time until you only have 3sts left and then fasten off with a long tail. In the end, you have what looks like a “typical” amigurumi leg that you’ve crocheted in rounds with a section on one side of the leg that is worked in rows, (kind of an arched shape) which is in essence the upper thigh of the dog.
When you create the left leg the part worked in rows will be on the opposite side of the leg, so that they are side specific. This is a technique that you don’t see too often in making animals, so you may be wondering how in the world do I attach and stuff something like this? If you jump down to the “Assembly” portion of the pattern you can see a picture of the dog all pinned together and under the “Hind Legs” section it will give more instructions about the portions to stitch and how to stuff the top row portion of the leg.
I hope that this is helpful and that you can get your hind legs made. If you do have more questions or something is still unclear don’t hesitate to reach out again. Wishing you a wonderful day and Happy Crocheting! Jen
Thanks! I will try today and check it out. I am using Bernat velvet yarn that’s why I didn’t want to do and if it doesn’t work the yarn will fray .
You are so awesome!
Thanks again! I don’t know how to send you the picture if you guide me I will definitely send the picture of the puppy dog.
I can definitely understand that, the velvet yarn can have a mind of its own, but it’s going to be so plushy and fun!
Hello Jen,
I am in the process of attaching the head to the body I want to know how to attach it to the body? The last Rnd 32 goes towards the opening of the body or towards the back of the body? If I place head Rnd 32 facing the back of the body . The starting circle of the head will be covered by Muzzle. Somehow my 9 Rnds of muzzle seems to look smaller than your pattern . Can you please help me how to place head to the body and the muzzle?
First, I have a question, Are you using safety eyes? If you are they need to be added to the head before it’s closed and attached. In answer to your question, Rnd 32 will be on top of the opening of the body, making the starting magic circle at the top of the dog near the ears. Stuffing the muzzle will enlarge it some.
Here are the directions for attaching the muzzle. “Before pinning and attaching the muzzle you’ll want to make sure to add your safety nose. I placed my nose between Rnd 3 and 4 in a central position. The actual muzzle I placed about one row below the eyes (which I placed between Rnd 14 and 15 of the head about 8sts apart). Add stuffing to your muzzle. I stuffed mine a little and then pinned it to the face for placement. After stitching for a while I added more stuffing until I was overall pleased with the appearance and firmness.”
If you’re not using safety eyes then the placement may differ due to the kind of eyes that you are using. In that case, I would pin eyes, ears, and muzzle to the head before attaching anything to ensure that you are going to like the overall look. Let me know if that helps and if you have any more questions!
Hello Jen,
I am going to use yarn for nose and eyes . I am going to give to my grandson.
I finally finished the puppy dog. I try to email it you but it failed.
How can I send the picture to you. I am not very good in computer.
Thank you so much for your pattern and your help.
Jen, how can I send pictures to you.
I’m so excited that you want to share, I’d love to see! There are a couple of ways to share at the moment. For now, if you’re on Instagram you can share there and tag me with @jenhayescreations and/or #jenhayescreations. That way it should give me a notification. The other way is to email me using my contact form found on the blog. I’m working on a Facebook group to help with sharing projects in the future, but I don’t have that quite set up yet, so you can watch for that one in the future too! Thanks for reaching out to share!
Wow! I’ve been looking for a pattern like this for ages but I have to admit that I’m worried at the amount of time this will take me. How many hours of work went into it? It looks a lot 💚💚💚
I’m so glad that you’ve found the pattern! I’ll be honest it does take a bit of time. A couple of factors are how familiar you are with crochet and if you plan on making the dog furry or not. The furry dog definitely adds a lot of time to the pattern as each bit of fur is looped onto the base and then trimmed, but I love the results!
I definitely want to make him furry. He’s amazing! How long did it take to loop and trim?
It took me several days to do the looping and trimming, but I can only work during certain times of the day, so a few hours here and a few hours there each day. It really will depend on the amount of time that you have each day to devote to crocheting and in this case, looping yarn. My advice, if you enjoy movies, is to pick a nice long series of favorites and crochet your way through them. This definitely isn’t a fast project even for the more advanced. It will be a labor of love!
Thanks Jen. I really appreciate your comments xx
If you have any questions as you go along don’t hesitate to reach out. Happy Crocheting!
Hi. I’m attempting this cute puppy and wondered about how big it is with #4 yarn? If I used #3, would it stay in proportion and just be smaller?
The regular dog without all the added fur is approximately 9.5 inches tall using a size E/4 (3.5 mm) hook. Using a thinner yarn should work and yes, make it smaller. You will also need to adjust the hook size to accommodate the yarn you decide to use. And just as a note, yes, amigurumi, in general, can typically be made larger and smaller by changing the yarn and hook size. It’s actually really fun to find a pattern you enjoy and make it in a variety of options.
Thank you so much for the detailed pattern. I crochet the puppy with a mink yarn and I really love it.
I have a question regarding the collar. I did not understand the way you add the French knots (what are they?), nor the the way you put the loop strap on, (I could not understand from the pictures attached). I would appreciate it very much if you could explain it again. Thanks again. It was really fun making it.
I’m so glad that you enjoyed the pattern. I imagine this pattern being just adorable in a mink yarn. French knots are an embroidery stitch. Here is one video that can show you how to make them https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjI5yo656U4 They just add a little extra detail to the collar, so they could technically be deleted or be substituted with making small straight stitches with a length of yarn and a needle to imitate where the holes would be on a collar.
As for the loop on the collar simply slide it onto the collar while it’s one long straight piece before the collar is stitched around the dog’s neck. The collar is stitched around the dog’s neck in front of the “holes” (french knots or other stitches), leaving a bit of a flap (it may help to think of a watch band with a buckle and strap and how that works). Once the collar is stitched onto the dog’s neck the loop can then be positioned to the front of the collar and the extra flap can be tucked into it.
I hope that helps. If not, let me know and I’m glad to find another way of explaining, or even putting some more pictures together if needed.
awesome, but video with fore legs please
It is unclear, I am not fluent in english
thanks a lot to share such a beautiful pattern for free
maybe i will try
Thank you! If you make him I would love to see. Happy Crocheting!
I made your puppy back when covid was getting a good grip on the world. I named him Covey. Absolutely love him. One day I will make his furry twin, it looks so sweet. Thank you for this pattern.
Thanks for sharing this. I’m so glad that you enjoyed the pattern.
Hello! This is my first crocheted stuffed animal. I’ve made the body and I was wondering if I need to turn this inside out.
Thanks!
Great question! The right side of the work should be on the outside (although some do prefer it reversed so in some ways it is a preference).
When you are crocheting in the round the right side of the work should always be on the outside, so right always facing you. The hook always moves through each stitch from the right side of the work into the middle of the piece towards the wrong side of the work.
If you have it reversed you can probably just turn it inside out and it will be okay, but with other pieces, this will not be so easy to do.
Being new to amigurumi this is not an uncommon learning opportunity. I hope that helps. If you have further questions please let me know. I’m glad to help.
Hi Jen! Have you ever tried this pattern (the base) with faux fur yarn? Would anything need to be done differently, except for the hook size? Thank you!
I haven’t tried the pattern in faux fur yarn yet, but yes it should be fine doing so. I think the important part will be making sure to mark stitches (when indicated in the pattern) as you go so that the stitches used in joining the pieces together will be easier to identify. If you are not familiar with working in furry yarn it may also be helpful to work the pattern in regular yarn first so that you’re more familiar with the pattern. Let me know if you have any further questions. If you give it a try I’d love to see it!
first of all, this is a nightmare to scroll on mobile, second, i wish there were more pics. and most importantly, i am confused by the muzzle instructions, what do you mean by the back bars of the chain? could you maybe provide pics or a video?
Thanks for your feedback. It is a long pattern. Printed it’s 20 pages long so it may be easier to view from your computer or an inexpensive printable PDF. As for your question, when you look at a chain on one side there is the regular V stitches and on the other side of the chain there are bars or dashes. These are the back bars of the chain that are to be worked in going up one side of the chain. Going back down the other side you will work in the V stitches. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any further quesitons.
GREAT WORK! GREAT INSTRUCTIONS! I would love to make it to a max of 6 inches. (which in theory would mean reducing the width of the rows by 1/3) but it ends up confusing me. would you know how to change the #’s to enable me to do this? you sure have worked your magic in its creation.
thanks in advance
I’m so glad that you like the pattern. It would be a lot of work to alter the pattern in this way, not a simple thing to do. One way to reduce the size is to use a smaller size of yarn or crochet thread along with a smaller hook. Wishing you the best.
Hi Jen. Thank you for the pattern, I’m finding g it really good so far. However just a couple of questions. My hind legs seem to be pointing in the same direction? I followed the latter and the section in rows are in the right place but the foot part seems to veer the same way? I’m not sure if I’ve done something wrong. Also, would you be able to advise on how to attach the head? I can’t seem to see any instructions. Thanks so much! Claire.
On the hind legs if you have the row portion in the right place then it should be fine when they are attached to the body. I looked over the pattern again and you are correct, I don’t have a specific position noted for the head placement. Mine is covered in the fur so I can’t look at it to count rows, but what I would recommend is to pin the ears and muzzle on (and stitch them on if you would like as well) and then position the head on the body in a way that looks good to you. This is one of my earlier patterns so I will likely revisit it in the future when I begin doing video and such for it and I will be sure to update the pattern then. If you would like to send pictures about the questions you have so I can see where you are and/or chat more about these things one on one you can always email me here as well: https://www.jenhayescreations.com/contact/
I’m glad to help.
Hi Jen, you are my go-to person for crochet patterns. Your directions are easy to follow and are of a lovely ‘chatty’ nature. I am not very experienced but last year found your Christmas gnome patterns and was so surprised that I was able to follow the pattern and complete my first ever gnome! Now I am working through the puppy dog pattern and am so pleased with my progress. Thank you so very much for your patterns!
And just by the way, I am 69 and very proud to be succeeding in something new. 🙂
You are so kind and totally just made my day! I’m so glad that you are enjoying the patterns and finding success with them. Your support and taking the time to comment means a lot. Wishing you the very best and continued success in your projects!
Hi.
I just wondered if there was a way to make this so it’s laying down, legs out front? Struggling to find a dog pattern I like that’s in the right position. Thank you
Hello! The way this pattern is constructed it doesn’t really work to get the front feet in a position to have it lying down. Good luck!
Hello Jen! Thank you for posting this wonderful pattern. I am currently working on this project and have one question: For joining the body and legs, it says 15sts, skip 10, work around the body, then go back to the legs and do the remaining 14sts.
The number of remaining stitches is what I’m confused about. The legs had 40sts before round 26, so then isn’t it going to be 15 stitches after doing 15 + skipping 10?