Crochet Pumpkin Gnome

The Crochet Pumpkin Gnome is the perfect option for both Halloween and Fall Decor. Switch up the yarn colors to your liking to fit your favorite season. The pattern also includes two different styles of shoes to choose from.

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome, or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

The idea for the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome has been on my mind for some time now. Once I made the Witch Gnome and Cat Gnome I knew that I would need a pumpkin too as part of the Halloween Gnome group (along with a few more gnome ideas to come).

However, it wasn’t until I started making the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome in “Halloween style” that I decided that I should also make a fall option as well. The more you come to know my patterns the more you’ll know that I think options are fun and often include them in my patterns, so really I couldn’t resist.

The changes are pretty basic, mostly the selection of color used, but you will also find two different shoe options to choose from. One is a pointy-toe option that you will be familiar with if you’ve made the Witch Gnome or the Leprechaun Gnome. The other is more boot-like. I felt like this option was better for the Fall Pumpkin version of the Gnome, but you make the choice to your liking. Happy Crocheting!

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The Yarn

The Crochet Pumpkin Gnome, like all the other gnomes currently found on the blog, was made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft. It is a well-known and quite widely available yarn both online and in many craft stores.

It’s a worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that has a bit of a sheen to it and comes in a wide range of colors and styles including the regular simply soft solids, collection, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites, stripes, paints, speckles, camos, party, marled, and several more! There is truly a wide variety to choose from for any project!

The biggest complaint that I hear about Caron Simply Soft yarn is that it can have a tendency to split. Honestly, I must agree that this can be the case. When I first started using the yarn I had more trouble than I do now.

Once I learned how my hook and crochet style interacted with the yarn I rarely have this issue. In fact, when it comes to acrylic yarns it has become one of my go-to yarns over the years for making amigurumi.

In this design, I feel that color is really what makes the chosen Crochet Pumpkin Gnome come to life. For the fall-like option, I used browns and yellows. For the more Halloween-like gnome, I used deep charcoals (black is another great option) and purple.

Really, I think it’s the style along with the color of the shoe that pulls each of the options together. Prefer the pointy shoe on the fall gnome? If you make it in brown with orange or yellow laces this could be cute too. I’m excited to see what choices you’ll make.

Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If a cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. In the images, you’ll see miniature Crochet Pumpkin Gnomes in each style. They were made using size 10 cotton crochet thread and a size 1.5 mm crochet hook.

Additional-sized yarns have not been tested, but should also likely work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use mostly Clover Amour)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Sewing Thread (to match or contrast button)
• ½ inch/12 mm button
• Doll Needle (at minimum 3.25 inches/8.3 cm in length)
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Colors include: Autumn Maize, Bone, Off White, Pistachio, Pumpkin, Purple, Sunshine, Taupe
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Colors include: Charcoal Heather

There are two variations of the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome to choose from. The approximate yarn usage and color code for each is noted below.

Halloween Crochet Pumpkin Gnome (charcoal hat) – Color (A) Bone, used approx. 16 yds/15 m, Color (B) Pumpkin, used approx. 89 yds/81 m, Color (C) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 120 yds/110 m, Color (D) Off White, used approx. 20 yds/18 m, Color (E) Purple, used approx. 10 yds/9 m, Color (F) Sunshine, used approx. 10 yds/9 m, Color (G) Pistachio, used approx. 10 yds/9 m

Fall Crochet Pumpkin Gnome (yellow hat) – Color (A) Bone, used approx. 16 yds/15 m, Color (B) Pumpkin, used approx. 89 yds/81 m, Color (C) Taupe, used approx. 58 yds/53 m, Color (D) Off White, used approx. 20 yds/18 m, Color (E) Autumn Maize, used approx. 74 yds/68 m, Color (F) Sunshine, used approx. 10 yds/9 m, Color (G) Pistachio, used approx. 10 yds/9 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome’s body measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome measures approximately 11 inches (28 cm) from the bottom of the foot to the top of the hat in a bent position and approximately 16 inches (40 cm) with the hat standing straight up.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. 
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern. The first stitch in the new color will typically be a slip stitch to help minimize the stair-step/jogging that occurs with color change. These sl sts are written into the pattern (it counts as the first st and should be worked into in the following round). A regular sc can be substituted if desired.
• The miniature Crochet Pumpkin Gnome in the images was made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 crochet thread. Changes in the pattern include: switching the 15 mm button (optional) for a 6mm button. It measures approximately 7.5 inches (19 cm) tall with the tip of the hat standing straight up. Note that unless tacked down this hat is not likely to stay in a folded-over position.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loops only
• bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch – chain
• FL – front loop
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• invisible finish
• MR – magic ring (aka. magic circle, adjustable ring)
• picot (described below under special stitches)
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease) (use the invisible decrease unless directed otherwise)
• sl st – slip stitch
• standing sc – standing single crochet
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• tr – treble crochet
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as many times as directed
• Some hand stitching

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in this pattern. 

To create a 3dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)

Picot

To create a picot

1. Ch2,
2. Sl st in the back bar of the 2nd ch from the hook. (picot complete) 

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Pumpkin Gnome!

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Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off.
• Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Set aside for later.

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Hand and Arm

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, bo, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts) 

Firmly stuff and shape the hand. Leave the rest of the arm unstuffed so it will lie flatter against the body.

Switch to Color (C)

>Design Tip: In the Rnds to follow the sleeves will be striped. To help eliminate the jogging that occurs in the work when making stripes the first st of the color change is worked as a sl st that counts as a st. If preferred, this st can be changed to a regular sc. There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each round. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

• Rnd 8: In FLO: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout), sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (D) 

• Rnd 10: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 12: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 14: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 16: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts) 
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up parallel with the thumb. The 3sts worked in Rnd 18 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed together. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)

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Body

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [2sc in next st, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [2sc in next st, sc in the next st, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 2sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 3sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 4sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 5sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 6sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 10: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 7sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 11: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 8sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 12: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 9sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (72sts)
• Rnd 13: [2sc in next st, sc in the next 10sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (78sts)
• Rnds 14-21: [Sc in the next 12sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (78sts for 8 Rnds) 
• Rnd 22: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 10sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (72sts)
• Rnd 23: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 24: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 25: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)

In the next Rnd, the bottom of the nose is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 26: On the body: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 3 times, sc2tog, sc in the next st, now join the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next st, in BLO: sc in the next st, [in both loops: sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 2 times. (48sts)

In the next Rnd, the top of the nose is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 27: On the body: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 3 times, sc2tog, now join the top of the nose to the body: [With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into the next st on the nose closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops] 4 times, on the body: sc in the next st, in BLO: sc in the next st, [in both loops: sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, in BLO: sc in the next st] 2 times. (42sts)

In the next Rnd, the arms are added seamlessly to the body. In preparation for adding the arms, mark sts 12, 17, 32, and 37 on the body. These four stitch markers are temporary and can be removed in Rnd 28 once the arms are joined to the body.

• With thumbs facing forward, and using the sts just marked, clip the top of the arms to either side of the body in the 1st and 6th st of the arm.

>Design Note: From this point, the body is worked through both loops.

• Rnd 28: Sc in the next 11sts, now join the arm to the body: with the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook through both the arm and the body: sc the arm and the body together for 6sts, on the body: sc in the next 14sts, now join the arm to the body: with the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook through both the arm and the body: sc the arm and the body together for 6sts, on the body: sc in the next 5sts. (42sts) 

Firmly stuff and shape the Pumpkin Body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnds 29-36: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 8 Rnds) 
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 40: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 41: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 42: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st into the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

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Shaping the Pumpkin

(Optional)

Cut a length of Color (C) as a contrast color option OR Color (B) to blend into the pumpkin approx. 50+ inches/127+ cm long.

• Using a threaded doll needle, anchor the yarn into the base of the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome between Rnds 1 and 2 of the body, directly below one of the columns of FL sts, *run the yarn tail up the body behind this entire column of FL sts, then insert the needle into the Rnd above this column of FL sts through the body to the column on the opposite side of the body, pull taught, then run the needle down the body behind this entire column of FL sts, pull taught again, insert the needle between Rnds 1 and 2 at the base of the column just stitched and come out between Rnd 1 and 2 of another unworked column of FL sts, Repeat from * until all of the columns have been stitched and pulled taught, secure the yarn and weave in the end.

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Shoes

There are two shoe options for the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome, a boot pictured on the more Fall-looking Pumpkin Gnome and a pointed shoe pictured on the more Halloween-looking Pumpkin Gnome. Either can be used, but only one set is needed.

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Boot and Leg (One Piece) – Pictured on the Fall Pumpkin Gnome

Make 2

Using Color (C)

The boots start by working on both sides of the ch.

• Ch 10
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st as the starting st), sc in the next 7sts, 4sc in the next st (corner rounded and the first st on the other side of the chain worked), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st. (22sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next 4sts, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (28sts)
• Rnd 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 2 times, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st. (34sts)
• Rnd 4: Working in the BLO: Sc in each st around (34sts)
• Rnd 5-6: Sc in each st around. (34sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 2 times, [sc2tog] 2 times, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog], 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (28sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 2 times, sc2tog, [sc in the next st, sc2tog], 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (22sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 6sts. (17sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts. (15sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the boot and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 11-14: Sc in each st around. (15sts for 4 Rnds)

Making the Leg

Place a locking stitch marker in the working loop of the boot so it can’t unravel. This will be returned to momentarily.

Using Color (D) and starting with a standing sc

• Rnd 15: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)

Add additional stuffing up to the top of the boot but leave the leg unstuffed as the pattern progresses.

Return to the Working Loop for the Boot

Place a locking stitch marker in the working loop of the leg so it can’t unravel. This will be returned to momentarily. 

Return to working on the boot (Color C), using the front loops of Rnd 14. 

• Working in the FLO: Sl st in each st around. (15sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish.

Return to the Working Loop for the Leg

>Design Note: The leg is going to alternate every 2 Rnds between Color (D) and Color (C). The color changes (noted in bold when they occur) will happen mid-row in order to keep the color change at the back of the leg when working in the round. Alterations can be made, if necessary, to ensure that the color changes are not seen at the front of the leg.  

>Design Tip: There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each round. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

Add additional stuffing up to the top of the boot but leave the leg unstuffed as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 17: Sc in the next st, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout during a color change), sc in the next 10sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 30: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 31: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 34: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 35: Sc in the next 4sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 7sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 36: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 37: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked. (3sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Add or remove sts to obtain the needed position. 
• Cut Color (C) and tuck the tail inside the leg. Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the shoe facing forwards and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.

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Pointed Shoe and Leg (One Piece) – Pictured on the Halloween Pumpkin Gnome

Using Color (C) 

>Design Note: The starting stitch will change several times while making the shoe. When a new starting point is noted the other stitch marker can be removed.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnds 3-6: Sc in each st around. (9sts for 4 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 4 times, sc in the next st. (13sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (13sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st. (14sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

The next portion of the shoe is worked in rows. The new starting stitch becomes the first st of Row 1. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in Rows.

• Row 1: Turn, ch 1, sc in the next 6sts. (6sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
• Rows 3-5: Sc in each st across. (8sts for 3 Rows)
• Row 6: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
• Row 7: Sc in each st across. (10sts)
• Row 8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
• Row 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
• Row 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (4sts)
• Row 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)

The pattern will now return to working in Rnds to form the sides of the shoe.

>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease for the first stitch and then return to working the invisible decrease.

• Rnd 1: Turn, ch1, sc2tog (mark this st as the starting st), working in the edges of the rows: sc in the edge of Row 11 back to Row 1 for 11 total sts, working in the 8 unworked sts across the toe: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, working in the edges of the rows: sc in the edge of Row 1 back to Row 11 for 11 total sts. (29sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts. (27sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts. (26sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 7sts. (21sts) 
• Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (21sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the shoe leaving the bent tip unstuffed. Continue to firmly stuff and shape the shoe as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts. (19sts) 
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts. (17sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (15sts) 
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st. (16sts)

Making the Leg

>Design Note: The leg is going to alternate every 2 Rnds between Color (D) and Color (C). The color changes (noted in bold when they occur) will happen mid-row in order to keep the color change at the back of the leg when working in the round. Alterations can be made, if necessary, to ensure that the color changes are not seen at the front of the leg.  

>Design Tip: There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each round. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 11: In BLO: Sl st in the first st, sc in the next 15sts. (16sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)

Add additional stuffing up to the top of the shoe but leave the leg unstuffed as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 13: Sc in the next st, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout), sc in the next 10sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 30: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 31: Sc in the next 4sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 7sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked. (3sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Add or remove sts to obtain the needed position. 
• Cut Color (C) and tuck the tail inside the leg. Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the shoe facing forwards and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body. 

Making the Tongue of the Shoe

Using Color (C) 

Looking at the front loops that were not worked in Rnd 11 when making the boot, identify the 6sts centered at the front of the boot/leg. 

• Row 1: Insert the hook in the far right of the 6sts determined above from the bottom of the stitch up towards the leg. Starting with a standing sc, sc in each st across. (6sts)
• Row 2: Turn, ch 1, 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the last st. (8sts)
• Row 3: Turn, ch 1, sl st in each st across. (8sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Adding Laces to the Shoe

Optional – Make the shoes with or without laces.

Use a tapestry needle(s) and an extra long length (approx 25+ inches/64+ cm) of Color (E) to add laces to the shoes.

Suggested Placement: Using a single needle thread a length of yarn through about Rnd 11-12 of the shoe (counted from the tip of the shoe) about 4-5 sts in length. Even out the lengths on either side and then with either a needle on each end or switching tails with a single needle, add crisscrosses to the shoes as if lacing a pair of tennis shoes. As pictured the Xs span over about 2 rows with a single row between the Xs. (2 Xs made and tied)

• Remove the needle(s) and tie the two ends in a bow like a pair of regular shoelaces. If desired, double-knot the bow so it cannot come undone. 

• To keep the yarn tail from unraveling, tie a small knot in the extra lengths of yarn right above the desired length for the straight piece. Then trim ⅛ inch (0.3 cm) or so below the knot. 

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Hat

Using Color (C) for the Halloween-like Pumpkin Gnome and Color (E) for the Fall-like Pumpkin Gnome

• Rnd 1: 4sc in MR. (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (6sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (8sts)
• Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around. (8sts for 4 Rnds)
• Rnd 8: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts. (9sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnds 13-18: Sc in each st around. (15sts for 6 Rnds)
• Rnd 19: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (18sts)
• Rnds 20-22: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnds 24-26: Sc in each st around. (21sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 27: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (24sts)
• Rnds 28-29: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (27sts)
• Rnds 31-32: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (30sts)
• Rnd 34: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (33sts)
• Rnd 36: Sc in each st around. (33sts)
• Rnd 37: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (36sts)
• Rnds 38-40: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 41: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (39sts)
• Rnds 42-43: Sc in each st around. (39sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 44: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (42sts)
• Rnd 45: Sc in each st around. (42sts)
• Rnd 46: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (45sts)
• Rnd 47: Sc in each st around. (45sts)
• Rnd 48: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 7sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 49: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
• Rnd 50: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (51sts)

Switch to Color (E) for the Halloween-like Pumpkin Gnome and Color (C) for the Fall-like Pumpkin Gnome

• Rnd 51: In FLO: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 52: In BLO:  [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (57sts)
• Rnd 53: In FLO: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 18sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 9sts. (60sts)

In the next Rnds, the brim is added to the hat.

Switch to Color (C) for the Halloween-like Pumpkin Gnome and Color (E) for the Fall-like Pumpkin Gnome

• Rnd 54: In BLO: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 11 times, sc in the next 2sts. (72sts)
• Rnd 55: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times. (84sts)
• Rnd 56: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 11 times, sc in the next 3sts. (96sts)
• Rnd 57: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times. (108sts)
• Rnd 58: Sl st in each st around. (108sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish and weave in the ends.

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Flower

Make 1

Using Color (F)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in the next 5sts, sc in the next st. (11sts)
• Rnd 3: [ch 3, (tr, p, tr) in the next st, ch 3, sl st in the next st] 5 times. (5 petal clusters) 
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the flower to the hat. Weave in the starting tail. 

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Add Curlicues to the Flower

Using Color (G)

• Fasten onto the back of the flower at the base of Rnd 3 in any of the sts between two of the petals.
• Ch 25, working in the back bars: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, sl st back into the same st on the flower, ch 21, working in the back bars: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, sl st back into the same st on the flower. (2 curlicues)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.
• Optional: Stitch the button to the center of the flower.

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Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Pumpkin Gnome and stitch securely into place using a tapestry needle.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Legs: Ensuring that they are centered with the Crochet Pumpkin Gnome’s face and facing forward, pin the legs side by side with the top of the leg at about the 2nd or 3rd Rnd at the front of the body. Attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and along each side of the leg for a couple of rows so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.
• Flower: Stitch the center of the flower securely onto the hat band leaving the petals loose. Pictured it sits to the left of the nose, but can be placed as desired. >Design Tip: Use the flower to cover up where the color changes are on the hat band, or position them at the back of the hat.
• Hat: Pull the hat down over the body so it rests on the top of the nose. If desired, invisibly tack the hat to the body in several places along the hat band with a separate length of yarn in the same color. Alternatively, the hat can be left removable. For a scrunched hat push the hat down towards the body with the palm of your hand and then make adjustments as needed until the desired bend is achieved.

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!