Crochet Nutcracker Gnome

The Crochet Nutcracker Gnome is sure to add a festive feel to your holiday decor year after year! He’s easily customizable with your choice of yarn color as well as various elements to choose from when decorating his hat.

And, who knows, according to German folklore and tradition, this fun keepsake may even bring good luck and protection to the family. So make one for yourself and make one for those you love. Handmade kindness and creativity is always a great tradition too! Happy Crocheting!

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Nutcracker Gnome or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

Inspiration comes from all sorts of places. This year our family got a bit wrapped up in the Nutcracker in a variety of ways when our daughter was chosen to be an angel in the Nutcracker production put on here annually by Clytie Adams School of Ballet, Ballet West, and the New American Philharmonic Orchestra.

She has danced with the Clytie Adams studio for several years but this was her first year auditioning for the performance. She was beyond excited to say the least and I thought it would be fun to design something for her to commemorate the experience.

In this case, I thought the obvious choices were either an angel or a nutcracker. I was going to just surprise her with my choice, but in the end, I asked her which one she would like. She most definitely wanted a nutcracker dressed in a red jacket with blue pants and gold accents.

I was glad that I let her choose too because I got to watch her excitement not only learning her dance for the performance, but also the excitement as she watched her crochet nutcracker come to life. And of course, to see her dance along with all the others in the production. Most definitely a memorable experience.

Now, for the Crochet Nutcracker Gnome. I made one of them to her desired specification, but if you know me, you also know that I love options in my designs, so I’ve also worked up a couple of other variations as well. I’m excited to see what options you’ll choose to use! Happy Crocheting!

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These Patterns May Also Be of Interest!

At this time there are a few other Christmas Gnome patterns on the blog that may interest you!

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The Yarn

The Crochet Nutcracker Gnomes were made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft. It is a well-known and widely available yarn both online and in many craft stores, long loved by many crafters because of its softness, ease of care, and wide selection of colors.

It’s a lighter worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles including the regular simply soft solids, collection, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites, stripes, paints, speckles, camos, party, marled, and several more! Truly a wide variety to choose from for any project!

Caron Simply Soft has a super soft feel with a bit of a sheen to it which I think makes it all the more perfect for holiday projects. A little sparkle and shine make any holiday a bit more festive don’t you think?

The biggest complaint that I hear about Caron Simply Soft yarn is that it can have a tendency to split. Honestly, I must agree that this can be the case. When I first started using the yarn I had more trouble than I do now.

Once I learned how my hook and crochet style interacted with the yarn I rarely have this issue. In fact, when it comes to acrylic yarns it has become one of my go-to yarns over the years for making amigurumi.

When designing the Crochet Nutcracker I specifically chose to use a deeper red, green, blue, gold, and charcoal along a skin tone, keeping in line with some of the more traditional nutcracker colors.

That said, while I was making them I couldn’t help but try to picture what they would also look like made in winter-like purples, blues, and pinks. The possibilities are truly endless. I’m excited to see what colors you will choose.

Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Nutcracker Gnome, but note that due to variations among brands that the finished size of the Crochet Nutcracker Gnome may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. Making the Crochet Nutcracker Gnome with different-sized yarns has not been tested, but should also likely work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.

I made the Crochet Nutcracker Gnome using Size 10 crochet thread and a 1.50 mm hook and am so excited about how he turned out!

The same pattern is used with the exception that the original hair and beard strands were cut at 3 inches (7.6 cm) instead of the noted measurements and the weighted base was not added.

He measures approximately 7 inches (17.8 cm) tall from the toe to the top of the knob on the hat.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share! Happy Crocheting!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use mostly Clover Amour or Furls Odyssey hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Pet Slicker Brush (optional for brushing the beard and hair)
• Poly Pellets (optional)
• Nylon Stocking (optional for adding Poly Pellets)
• Funnel (optional for adding Poly Pellets)
• Measuring cup (optional for adding Poly Pellets)
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Bone OR Taupe, Color (B) Autumn Red, Color (C) Dark Country Blue, Color (D) Sage Green, Color (E) Gold, Color (G) Off White – amounts used are noted below for each specific Nutcracker
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (F) Charcoal Heather – amounts used are noted below for each specific Nutcracker

Nutcracker 1 – Red Jacket

Color (A) Bone, used approx. 50 yds/46 m, Color (B) Autumn Red, used approx. 68 yds/62 m, Color (C) Dark Country Blue, used approx. 35 yds/32 m, Color (E) Gold, used approx. 23 yds/21 m, Color (F) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 120 yds/110 m, Color (G) Off White, used approx. 35 yds/32 m

Nutcracker 2 – Blue Jacket

Color (A) Bone, used approx. 50 yds/46 m, Color (B) Autumn Red, used approx. 35 yds/32 m, Color (C) Dark Country Blue, used approx. 68 yds/62 m, Color (E) Gold, used approx. 8 yds/7.3 m, Color (F) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 120 yds/110 m, Color (G) Off White, used approx. 35 yds/32 m

Nutcracker 3 – Green Jacket

Color (A) Taupe, used approx. 50 yds/46 m, Color (B) Autumn Red, used approx. 35 yds/32 m, Color (D) Sage Green, used approx. 63 yds/58 m, Color (E) Gold, used approx. 8 yds/7.3 m, Color (F) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 120 yds/110 m, Color (G) Off White, used approx. 35 yds/32 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body measure approximately 2 inches (5.1 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Crochet Nutcracker Gnome measures approximately 14.5 inches (37 cm) tall from the bottom of the foot to the top of the knob on the hat, 13.5 (34 cm) without the knob. 

Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. 
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loops only
• bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• hdc – half double crochet
• invisible finish
• looping yarn (for the hair and beard)
• picot (described below under special stitches)
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use the invisible decrease unless directed otherwise)
• sl st – slip stitch
• standing sc – standing single crochet
• st(s) – stitch(s)
• tr – treble crochet
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in this pattern.

To create a 3dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo complete)

Picot

To create a picot

1. Ch2,
2. Sl st in the back bar of the 2nd ch from the hook. (picot complete) 

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Nutcracker Gnome!

Weighted Base

>Design Notes:

• The weighted base is not necessary to make the Crochet Nutcracker Gnome, but it can help him to sit better on his own due to the top-heavy nature of his tall frame and hat.
• Three to four Poly-Pellet “bundles” can be made from one adult knee-high stocking depending on how it is tied and cut each time. The toe does not need to be tied, but after that, simply knot the beginning and end of each bundle if making more than one.

Making the Weighted Base

• Pour approximately 5 ounces (1 cup) of Poly-Pellets into the toe of a nylon stocking. Working the stocking from the outside, get the Poly-Pellets as far down into the stocking as possible. Knot the top to secure and cut.
• Set aside for later.

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A) for All Nutcracker Gnomes.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off.
• Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Set aside for later.

Body

Make 1

Using Color (C) for Nutcracker 1 and Color (B) for Nutcracker 2 and 3.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (48sts)

Switch to Color (B) for Nutcracker 1, Color (C) for Nutcracker 2, and Color (D) for Nutcracker 3.  

• Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (48sts) 
• Rnd 11: Working in the BLO: Sc in each st around. Mark the front loop of the 20th st of Rnd 10 to be returned to later when making the bottom of the jacket. (48sts)
• Rnds 12-28: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 17 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A) for All Nutcracker Gnomes.

• Rnds 29-32: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 4 Rnds)

In the next round, the nose is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the bottom of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)

• Rnd 34: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the top of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next st on the nose from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)

If using, add the weighted base, pushing it down and shaping it until it fills out approximately the bottom 24 rounds of the body. Then firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

>Design Tip: If the weighted base was used, there may be a gap between the base and the stuffing, making the body not look cylindrical. If this is the case, push some stuffing down along the edges near the top of the weighted base. As the body closes (after about Rnd 45), set the body on a hard surface and press down firmly on the top of the body, compacting it down. Then shape the body from the outside to achieve a more cylindrical shape. Add more stuffing as needed and continue this process until the gap disappears and the body is complete. Note that the upper portion of the body when fully stuffed will be slightly wider than the lower portion containing the weighted base.

• Rnds 35-43: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 9 Rnds) 
• Rnd 44: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 7 times, sc in the next 2sts. (40sts)
• Rnd 45: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 46: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 7 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 47: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 48: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 49: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

Making the Bottom of the Jacket

Using Color (B) for Nutcracker 1, Color (C) for Nutcracker 2, and Color (D) for Nutcracker 3.  

The bottom of the jacket is worked in turned rows. Turn and ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st) at the end of each row.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows.

>Design Note: The first and last stitch of Row 1 should be the two stitches centered under the middle of the nose. Make adjustments if necessary to ensure this first stitch is centered otherwise the bottom of the jacket will not be centered on the body.

• Row 1: Returning to the stitch marker placed in the front loop of Rnd 10 of the body at st 20: with the Nutcracker’s body upside down and the working loop on the hook, insert the hook through the loop from the bottom of the loop and make a standing sc, sc in each loop around. (48sts)
• Row 2: Sc2tog, sc in the next 44sts, sc2tog. (46sts)
• Row 3: Sc2tog, sc in the next 42sts, sc2tog. (44sts)
• Row 4: Sc2tog, sc in the next 40sts, sc2tog. (42sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the tails.

Hand and Arm

Make 2

Using Color (A) for All Nutcracker Gnomes.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, bo, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts) 

Switch to Color (B) for Nutcracker 1, Color (C) for Nutcracker 2, and Color (D) for Nutcracker 3.  

>Design Option: Rnd 8 makes it possible to add a cuff to the sleeve. To make the Crochet Nutcracker Gnome without a cuff work Rnd 8 in the FLO instead of the BLO. In this case, no additional stitches need to be marked.

• Rnd 8: Working in the BLO: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts) Mark the first front loop of Rnd 7 with a separate stitch marker for later reference.

Firmly stuff and shape the hand and arm and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnds 9-20: Working in both loops: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 12 Rnds)

Switch to Color (E) for Nutcracker 1 and 3, and Color (B) for Nutcracker 2.

• Rnd 21: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnds 22-23: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 24: Working in the BLO: [Sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts) >Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in the BLO.
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a tail long enough to close up the hole and stitch the arm to the body. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and then weave the tail to the inside of the arm at Rnd 23. >Design Note: The thumb should be facing forward when attached to the body, so the tail will come out on different sides of the arms.

Adding the Cuff to the Sleeve

Using Color (E) for Nutcracker 1 and Color (B) for Nutcracker 2 and 3.

• Rnd 1: Using the front loops previously marked with a stitch marker in Rnd 8 of the Hand and Arm: With the working loop on the hook, insert the hook from the bottom up towards the arm, and starting with a standing sc, sc in each st around. (10sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 4: Sl st in each st around. (12sts)
• Fasten off using an invisible finish (or alternatively a regular finish) and weave in the ends.

Boot and Leg (One Piece)

Make 2

Starting with the boots.

Using Color (F) for All Nutcracker Gnomes.

The boots are made working on both sides of the ch.

• Ch 10
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 7sts, 4sc in the next st (corner rounded and the first st on the other side of the chain worked), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st. (22sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next 4sts, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (28sts)
• Rnd 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 2 times, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st. (34sts)
• Rnd 4: Working in the BLO: Sc in each st around (34sts)
• Rnd 5-6: Sc in each st around. (34sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 2 times, [sc2tog] 2 times, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog], 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (28sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 2 times, sc2tog, [sc in the next st, sc2tog], 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (22sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 6sts.(17sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts. (15sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the boot and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 11-18: Sc in each st around. (15sts for 8 Rnds)

Switch to Color (B) for Nutcracker 1, Color (C) for Nutcracker 2, and Color (D) for Nutcracker 3.  

Add additional stuffing to the top of the boot but leave the remaining leg unstuffed as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 19: Working in the BLO: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C) for Nutcracker 1 and Color (B) for Nutcracker 2 and 3.

• Rnd 22: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
• Rnds 23-35: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 13 Rnds)
• Rnd 36: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 9sts unworked. (3sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Make or remove sts to obtain the needed position.
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the boot facing forward, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.

Adding Detail to the Boots

Using Color (E) for All Nutcracker Gnomes.

• Stitch three horizontal lines down the front of the boot. Suggested placement: Starting approximately 2 Rnds down from the top of the boot, each line approximately 4sts long, with 2 Rnds between.
• >Design Options: Try crisscrossing the laces or making two vertical rows of large French knots.

Belt

Using Color (F) for All Nutcracker Gnomes. 

The Belt is worked in rows. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row (doesn’t count as a st).

• Ch 47

Ensure that the chain can go all the way around the body above the bottom of the jacket, with about a 1-2 ch overlap. Add or remove chains if needed. 

• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across. (46sts) 

Check to see that the belt is still fitting appropriately around the body. It should fit snugly around the body with the ends touching. 

• Row 2: Sc in each st across. (46sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming the belt together and tacking it to the body in a few places. Weave in the starting tail.

>Design Option: If desired, a buckle (not pictured on any of the Nutcracker Gnomes) can also be hand stitched onto the front center of the buckle using Color (E).

Buttons

For Nutcracker 1 make 8 (6 for the jacket and 2 for the hat).

For Nutcrackers 2 and 3 make 6 (for the jacket).

>Design Option: Regular (⅜ inch/9 mm) buttons can also be used in place of the crocheted buttons.

Using Color (E) for All Nutcracker Gnomes. 

• Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Fasten off using an invisible finish (or alternatively sl st to the first st and fasten off) leaving a long tail for stitching the button to the body of the jacket/hat. Weave in the starting tail. 

Hair

Using Color (G) for All Nutcracker Gnomes.

• Step 1: Cut 256, 4-inch lengths of yarn (more if fuller hair is desired, longer if longer hair is desired).
• Step 2: Holding two strands together, loop yarn lengths around the stitches on the body along the sides and back of the head. Suggested Placement: Loop the strands on Rnds 29 (where the jacket and skin color meet), 31, 33, and 35: Start and end approximately 7sts (1.25 inches/ 3.2 cm) away from the edge of the nose on either side. (33 paired loops per Rnd)

>Design Note: When looping the hair the loops on the left and right side of the body will hit a point in the back where the lines don’t match up due to the nature of working in a continuous round (where the starting and ending stitch of the round meet). When this occurs, maintain the first round of looped stitches on the round where the jacket meets the skin color. Then with each remaining row make adjustments at this point to ensure that there is always an unworked row of loops between each row of hair. Doing this the hair will look uneven in the back (which will be covered with the hat), but look even in the front.

• Step 3: Trim, unravel, or brush yarn strands as desired.

>Design Tip: A lint brush or sticky piece of tape can be helpful to remove extra fuzz left from looping, cutting, and/or brushing the yarn.

Beard 

Using Color (G) for All Nutcracker Gnomes.

• Step 1: Cut 20, 5-inch lengths of yarn (more if a fuller beard is desired, longer if a longer beard is desired).
• Step 2: Holding two strands together, loop yarn lengths around the stitches onto the body. Suggested Placement: On Rnds 29 (where the jacket and skin color meet): Place 5 loops centered under the nose. On Rnd 30: Place 5 loops above the loops in Rnd 29. (5 paired loops per Rnd)
• Step 3: Trim, unravel or brush yarn strands as desired.

Mustache

Make 1

Using Color (F) for All Nutcracker Gnomes.

• Ch 18
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sl st in the second ch from the hook, sl st in the next ch, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, tr in the next ch, dc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, sl st in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, tr in the next ch, dc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the next 2 ch.  
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the mustache to the body. Weave in the starting tail. Weave the ending tail to the middle of the mustache. 

Hat

Make 1

Using Color (F) for All Nutcracker Gnomes.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (57sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 18sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 9sts. (60sts)
• Rnds 12-31: Sc in each st around. (60sts for 20 Rnds)
• Rnd 32: Sc in the next 20sts, hdc in the next 3sts, 2hdc in the next st, dc in the next 3sts, [2dc in the next st, dc in the next 2sts] 2 times, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 3sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 19sts. (65sts)

>Design Note: In the next Rnd sl sts are used. Do not make them too tightly as it will limit the stretch in the bottom of the hat. The hat should be able to fit over the top row of hair. If the stretch becomes an issue the sl sts can be replaced with sc.

• Rnd 33: Sl st in the next 17sts, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, hdc in the next 3sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next st, [2hdc in the next 2sts, hdc in the next 4sts] 2 times, 2hdc in the next 2sts, hdc in the next st, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, sl st in the next 14sts. (75sts) 
• Fasten off using an invisible finish (or alternatively a regular finish), leaving a long tail for tacking the hat to the body.

Embellishing the Hat

There are a variety of ways to decorate the hat. Mix and match options to personalize the desired style.

Hat Band

Using Color (B) for Nutcracker 1 and Color (C) for Nutcracker 2. Not used for Nutcracker 3.

The hat band is made to go from one side of the head to the other across the front of the hat, not all the way around the hat. It is worked in rows. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row.

• Leaving a long starting tail for later stitching, Ch 36. 
• Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across. (35sts) 
• Row 2: Sc in each st across. (35sts) 

Switch to Color (E) for Nutcracker 1 and 2. Leave a long tail of the main band color for later stitching.  

• Row 3: Sl st in each st across. (35sts) >Design Tip: Don’t sl st too tightly.
• Fasten off and weave in the tails not noted to be used for stitching. >Design Option: Note that the back of the band is just as decorative as the front. Weave the tails into the side that will not be facing forward. 

The Knob on Top of the Hat

Make 1

Using Color (C) for Nutcracker 1 and Color (B) for Nutcracker 2. Not used for Nutcracker 3.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st. (9sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the knob to the hat.
• Firmly stuff and shape the knob.

Chain

Make 1

Using Color (E) for Nutcracker 1. Not used for Nutcracker 2 and 3.  

• Leaving a long tail for stitching, Ch 37.
• With the hat on the body, hold the chain up to the hat to ensure the desired length is achieved. Add or remove chains as needed. As pictured the ends of the chain are placed at Rnd 10 on the left and right center of the hat.
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching.

>Design Options: Chain lengths and the number of chain strands used can be as many or few as desired.

Holly Leaf

Make 2

Using Color (D) for Nutcracker 3. Not used for Nutcracker 1 and 2.

The holly leaf is made working on both sides of the ch.

>Design Note: Picot = Ch2, sl st in the back bar of the 2nd ch from the hook. Picot complete. 

• Ch 7
• Working in the back bar of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, picot, sc in the next 2ch, picot, sc in the next 2ch, picot, working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 2ch, picot, sc in the next 2ch, picot, sc in the next 2ch.
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the holly leaf to the hat. Weave in the starting tail.

Holly Berries

Make 3

Using Color (B OR G) for Nutcracker 3. Not used for Nutcracker 1 and 2.

>Design Note: The color used is a personal choice. Either option works well.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 2 times. (4sts)
• Sl st into the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole and attach the berry to the hat. Stuff the starting tail into the inside of the berry. (>Design Note: It may be necessary to cut off some of the tail to have it all fit.) Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and leave the tail for attaching the berry to the hat.

Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Nutcracker Gnome and stitch securely into place. 

 General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Belt: Wrap the belt around the body flush above the bottom of the jacket with the edges at the back of the Nutcracker Gnome. Making sure that the belt is not twisted, stitch the ends together. Tack down the center of the belt in several places so it remains in place and cannot be removed.
• Legs: Ensuring that they are centered with the Nutcracker’s face and are facing forward, pin the legs side by side with the top of the leg at about Rnd 1 at the front of the body. Attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and along each side of the leg for a couple of rows so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.

• Arms: Making sure that the thumbs are facing forward, place the arms on either side of the body with the top of the arm just under the bottom row of hair. Ensure that the arms are stitched high enough on the body that the Nutcracker is able to sit. Stitch the top three underside rounds of each arm to the body. >Design Tip: The easiest way to stitch the arm to the body is to tack the arm in place at the top of the three rounds with a single stitch to secure positioning to the body and then raise the arm towards the head and gradually make additional stitches down the arm and body attaching it together. 

• Mustache: Stitch the center of the mustache under the nose with the bottom of the mustache covering the very top of the beard. The rest of the mustache can be left loose or attached to the body as desired. In the images, the tips of the mustache have been attached as well.

• Buttons: The buttons are lined up vertically so they can be seen to the left and right of the beard. They are spaced approximately 2 Rnds up from the belt and 2 Rnds down from Color (A) on the body with approximately 2 Rnds between them. The two columns of buttons are spaced approximately 1.5 inches/3.8 cm across from each other. Prior to stitching on the buttons, three horizontal lines can be stitched in the same color as the buttons, giving the impression that the left and right buttons are connected. Pictured, the buttons were stitched on the body using the BLO which creates a bit of a domed appearance instead of through both loops or invisibly at the back of the button.

• Embellishing the Hat: The embellishments can be added to the hat before or after it is stitched to the body (see Hat below).
  • Adding the Hat Band: (Nutcracker 1 and 2) – Place the hat on the head with it pushed down over the top row of hair and nose. The center of the hat band should sit over the center of the nose, above the brim of the hat, the ends of the hat band angled so the bottom corner edge of the band touches just above the bottom Rnd of the hat. The accent color on the band can be on the top or bottom of the band as desired. Secure, at minimum, the ends of the hat band to the hat.
  • Adding the Knob: (Nutcracker 1 and 2) – The knob is stitched to the top center of the hat over about Rnds 1 and 2.
  • Chains: (Nutcracker 1) – The ends of the chain are stitched to the hat on the left and right at approximately Rnd 11. The rest of the chain can remain loose or be tacked down. In the images, the back of the chain is facing forward and the taking is done in the center of the chain mimicking the back bars of the chain (doesn’t need to be in every stitch, just enough to keep it in place). If using, stitch buttons over the ends of the chain on either side.
  • Holly Leaves and Holly: (Nutcracker 3) – Stitch the leaves and berries to the hat just above the brim in whatever place and way look aesthetically pleasing. Pictured, the leaves are stitched to the hat only on the bottom portion of the leaf on either side for a couple of stitches leaving the rest of the leaf unstitched.
• Hat: The hat can be left removable or stitched to the body. Either way, it should be centered over the nose and pulled down over the top row of the hair.
  • If stitching the hat to the body: Because the hat is tall it can buckle when pushed on. To help eliminate this it can optionally be stuffed before stitching it to the body. Stuffing the hat will make it pop back up off the body so it will need to be pinned or held down while stitching. The hats in the images are stuffed and then tacked to the body in several places above the bottom round of the hat and above the brim at the front of the hat. Attaching the hat to the body can be done using a running stitch. This is done by tacking a small spot at the back of the hat where the stitching tail begins, running the needle through the body for about half an inch (1.3 cm), coming back up through the hat and then back down through the hat for a short stitch to tack the hat again (the length of one sc stitch) and then back down through the body, repeating this process around the entire hat. Where applicable, the stitching will also go through the top of the hair.
• Additional Option: At the top of the arms there are front loops in the design that, if desired, can be used to loop additional yarn from to create tassels on the shoulders.

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!