Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome

Get ready to create the most adorable Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome! He’s a good little helper, but be careful he’s also been known to stir up a bit of mischief and sneak his hand into the cookie jar a time or two.

All the same, he is sure to bring extra holiday cheer into your home or workspace. Watch others squeal with delight as he spreads extra holiday cheer wherever he goes. 

Whether you plan to use him as a holiday decoration, as a special gift for someone, or for play, he’s sure to add that extra touch of joy to each occasion.

As a note, you may also want to check out the Crochet Santa Gnome pattern as a great companion to sit beside the Christmas Elf Gnome on your mantelpiece! Double the cuteness!

Read on to learn more about my inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

There is a lot of inspiration behind the Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome, but the biggest reason I made him and the one that I’m most excited for is to be able to surprise a friend with him.

She loves Christmas and has one of the best elf collections that I’ve ever seen. I’m waiting with giddy anticipation for the time when I can give him to her.

Honestly, I’m really not that good at waiting when it comes to giving gifts though, I just want to give it to the person once I have it ready, so it’s almost killing me wanting to just run over and give it to her right now. Can you relate?

I’m excited to see what you think of him and what colors you’ll use to make yours! Will you be keeping him, giving it to someone, or perhaps both?

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The Yarn

Like the Gnome Norbin Nibbleweed and the Crochet Santa Gnome I once again used a variety of Caron Simply Soft yarns to make the Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome.

Caron Simply Soft is a worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles including the regular simply soft solids, collection, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites, stripes, paints, speckles, camos, party, and several more!

The Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome uses the solid option for most of the construction with the heathers used for the shoes and the belt buckle. I especially like the Caron Simply Soft for this project because the bit of sheen in the yarn just feels like an additional touch of Christmas to me.

Can I add a bit of a side note too? I’m so excited about how the shoes turned out! I worked on the shape for quite a while trying to get it just right and was so excited with the end result in the shaping and I also love the Charcoal Heather color.

Along with the Caron Simply Soft yarn, the Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome pattern also uses a small amount of Bernat Pipsqueak yarn. This yarn is a snuggly, fuzzy yarn that is a bulky size 5 and comes in several solid and print options.

It’s 100% polyester and is both washable and dryable making it useable for a variety of applications from amigurumi to blankets, to accessories. On that note, I don’t recommend machine washing amigurumi. If washing is needed it’s best to spot clean and air dry.

If you are new to working with Furry yarns the blog post 20 Tips for Crocheting With Furry Yarn may be helpful.

Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight yarn should work well for making the Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome but make sure that all the yarns being used are of equal thickness. Sometimes the same yarn weight, even within the same brand varies.

Other fur yarns may be substituted as well, but outcomes may vary. I’ll note this later in the pattern as well, but the furry pom pom could also be substituted with a regular pom pom either store-bought or hand made or I think a little jingle bell would be a lot of fun too! As always, reach out if you have any questions. I’m excited to see your creations!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) 
• Stitch Markers
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Pins
• Needle Disc Puller (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Bone OR Taupe, used approx. 65 yds/59 m, Color (B) Dark Sage, used approx. 76 yds/69.5 m, Color (C) Autumn Red, used approx. 70 yds/64 m, Color (E) Off White, used approx. 15 yds/14 m
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (D) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 25 yds/23 m, Color (F) Grey Heather, used approx. 2 yds/2 m
• Yarnspirations Bernat Pipsqueak (5-Bulky 100% polyester, 101 yds/92 m, 3.5 oz/100 g), Color (D) Vanilla, used approx. 4 yds/4 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) in the sitting position without the hat, the Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome measures approximately 4.5 inches/11.4 cm. Sitting with the hat measures approximately 7 inches/18 cm with a bent hat and 10 inches/25 cm with a straight hat (not including the legs).

Design Notes

• The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. The portions written in rows will be noted.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern. The first stitch in the new color will typically be a slip stitch to help eliminate the stair-step/jogging that occurs with color change. These sl sts are written into the pattern. A regular sc can be substituted if desired.
• The pattern is written with the primary color as Color (B) – Dark Sage for the Elf Gnome. Also pictured is an Elf Gnome with the primary color as Color (C) – Autumn Red. The two colors can be swapped within the pattern (with everything else staying the same) to obtain the desired look.
• Further design notes will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.

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Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch – c
• dc – double crochet
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• sc – single crochet
• sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease for rounds, regular decrease for rows)
• sl st – slip stitch
• st(s) – stitch(s)
• tr – treble crochet
• yo – yarn over 
• [ ] / ( ) – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• * * – Repeat instructions between asterisks as instructed in the pattern
• magic circle/adjustable ring
• invisible finish
• standing single crochet
• surface crochet or hand embroidery

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in this pattern. Essentially it’s 3 half-finished double crochets worked all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as one stitch, creating a puffy stitch.

To create a 3dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome!

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A) – Taupe OR Bone

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off.
• Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Set aside for later.

Body

Make 1

Using Color (B) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnds 9-13: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 14: In BLO: Sc in each st around. Mark the front loop of the 22nd st of Rnd 13 to be returned to later when making the tunic. (48sts) 
• Rnds 15-19: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 5 Rnds) 

Switch to Color (A) – Taupe OR Bone

• Rnd 20: Sl st in the first st (counts as a stitch), sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 21-22: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)

In the next round the nose is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)

• Rnd 24: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into the next st on the nose from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 25-33: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 9 Rnds) 

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

Making the Tunic

Using Color (B) – Dark Sage

The tunic is worked in turned rows. Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows.

>Design Note: Note that the first stitch worked in Row 1 should be one of two stitches centered under the middle of the nose. These two stitches will be the first and last stitch of the Row. Make adjustments if necessary to ensure this first stitch is centered otherwise the tunic will not be centered on the body.

• Row 1: Returning to the stitch marker placed in the front loop of Rnd 12 of the body at st 22: with the elf’s body upside down and the working loop on the hook, insert the hook through the loop from the bottom of the loop and make a standing sc, sc in each loop around. (48sts)
• Row 2: Sc2tog, sc in the next 44sts, sc2tog. (46sts)
• Row 3: Sc2tog, sc in the next 42sts, sc2tog. (44sts)
• Row 4: Sc2tog, sc in the next 40sts, sc2tog. (42sts)
• Row 5: Sc2tog, sc in the next 38sts, sc2tog. (40sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the tails.

Adding the Decorative Trim to the Tunic

Using Color (C) – Autumn Red

• With the elf still upside down, leaving a tail long enough to weave in, fasten on with a sl st in the front loop of Rnd 12 of the body (where the first st of Rnd 1 of the tunic was made). Sl st along the edge of the tunic rows on the left side, sl st in each st along the bottom all the way around, sl st back up the other edges of the rows on the right side finishing in the front loop of Rnd 12 (where the last st of Rnd 1 of the tunic was made). (50sts)

• Weave in the starting tail, and fasten off using the invisible finish to seamlessly connect the left and right sides of the stitching and weave in the tail.

Belt

Using Color (D) – Charcoal

The belt is worked in rows. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

• Ch 52

Ensure that the chain can go all the way around the body above the tunic, with about a 1-2 ch overlap. Add or remove chains if needed. 

• Row 1: In the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across. (51sts) 
• Row 2: Sc in each st across. (51sts)

Check to see that the belt is still fitting appropriately around the body.

• Row 3: Sc in each st across. (51sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the belt together. Weave in the starting tail.

Belt Buckle

Using Color (F) – Grey Heather

The buckle is worked in rows. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

• Ch 5
• Row 1: In the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (4sts)
• Rows 2-3: Sc in each st across. (4sts for 2 Rows)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the buckle to the belt.
• Weave in the starting tail.

Attach the Buckle to the Belt

• Find the center of the belt by folding it in half, center the belt buckle, and stitch in place along the left and right sides of the buckle.
• Using Color (D) – Charcoal: Whip stitch several sts side by side in the center of the buckle (leaving a border on all sides) to create the square “hole” in the buckle.

Add the Collars to the Belt

Using Color (B) – Dark Sage

The collars are worked in turned rows. Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows.

Identify 10sts on the belt to the left and 10 sts to the right edge of the belt buckle. These are the sts that will be worked in to make the collars.

Left Collar

• Row 1: Looking at the belt with the right side of the belt facing up, to the right of the buckle, starting with the st furthest from the buckle, sc in each st across. (10sts)
• Row 2: In FLO: sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
• Row 3: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts. (7sts)
• Row 4: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog. (5sts)
• Row 5: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog. (3sts)
• Row 6: Sc2tog, sl st in the next st. (2sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the tails.

Right Collar

• Row 1: Looking at the belt with the right side of the belt facing up, on the left side of the buckle, starting with the stitch closest to the buckle, sc in each st across. (10sts)
• Row 2: In FLO: sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
• Row 3: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (7sts)
• Row 4: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog. (5sts)
• Row 5: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog. (3sts)
• Row 6: Sl st in the next st, sc2tog. (2sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the tails.

Adding the Decorative Trim to the Collars

Using Color (C) – Autumn Red

• Surface crochet (or optionally hand embroider) along the edge of the collars.

>Design Note: Surface crochet creates V stitches on one side of the work and dashes on the other. Depending on how the hook is inserted into the crochet fabric determines which will be on the right side and which will be on the wrong side. 

• For the V stitches to be on the front of the collar once it’s turned, insert the hook from the wrong side of the work through to the right side of the work starting on either side of the collar in the stitch of the belt that also has Row 1 of the collar worked into it. 
• Leaving a tail long enough to weave in, put the working loop on the hook, pull the loop down through the fabric being careful not to pull the knot through as well as it will show on the right side of the piece.

• *Move up the fabric about a stitch length, insert the hook back up through the fabric (>Design Tip: It may be helpful to look at the piece from the side to be able to see both the front and back of the piece), yo, and pull up a loop.* Repeat between * *  until the entire edge of the collar is surface crocheted, ending at the top stitch of the belt also shared with the collar. 

• To fasten off, cut the yarn leaving a tail long enough to weave in, pull the yarn completely through the loop, use a tapestry needle to secure the final stitch, and weave in the tails.  

>Design Tip: When weaving in the ends do so into the back of the belt, making sure that the stitches aren’t showing through to the front.

Ears

Make 2

Using Color (A) – Taupe OR Bone

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (8sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (8sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next 2sts. (10sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnd 10: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next 4sts, sc in the next 3sts. (21sts)
• Rnds 11-12: Sc in each st around. (21sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 13: Sc in the next 2sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 3sts. (16sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts. (13sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (13sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st. (9sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 3 times. (5sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole and stitch the ear in place during assembly. 
• Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed. 

Hand and Arm (One Piece)

Make 2

Using Color (A) – Taupe OR Bone

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (14sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (14sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: Bo in the next st, sc in the next 13sts. (14sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (14sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts] 2 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (10sts)

Stuff and shape the hand. Leave the remaining part of the arm unstuffed as the pattern progresses.

Switch to Color (B) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 10: In BLO: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. Mark the front loop of the first stitch to return to later when making the cuff.  (12sts)
• Rnds 11-18: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 8 Rnds)
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up perpendicular to the side of the hand with the thumb, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.

Making the Cuff

Switch to Color (C) – Autumn Red

>Design Note: For Rnd 1, insert the hook into the loop from the bottom of the loop up towards the top of the arm. The first stitch is a standing sc.

• Rnd 1: Working in the Front Loops of Rnd 9: Leaving a starting tail long enough to weave in, sc in each st around. (10sts)
• Rnd 2: *Sl st in the next st, [sc, dc, ch 2, sl st in the back bar of the 2nd ch from the hook, dc, sc] in the next st* Repeat between * * to end. (5sl st and 5 pointed clusters)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off. Weave in the tails.

Shoe and Leg (One Piece)

Starting With the Shoe

Make 2

Using Color (D) – Charcoal Heather

>Design Note: The starting stitch will change several times while making the shoe. When a new starting point is noted the other stitch marker can be removed.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnds 3-6: Sc in each st around. (9sts for 4 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 4 times, sc in the next st. (13sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (13sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st. (14sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

The next portion of the shoe is worked in rows. The new starting stitch becomes the first st of Row 1. Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in Rows.

• Row 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 6sts. (6sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
• Rows 3-5: Sc in each st across. (8sts for 3 Rows)
• Row 6: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
• Row 7: Sc in each st across. (10sts)
• Row 8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
• Row 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (6sts)
• Row 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog. (4sts)
• Row 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)

The pattern will now return to working in Rounds.

>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease for the first stitch and then return to working the invisible decrease.

• Rnd 1: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog (mark this st as the starting st), working in the edges of the rows: sc in the edge of Row 11 back to Row 1 for 11sts total, working in the 8 unworked sts across the toe: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, working in the edges of the rows: sc in the edge of Row 1 back to Row 11 for 11sts total. (29sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts. (27sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts. (26sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 7sts. (21sts) 
• Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (21sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the shoe leaving the bent tip unstuffed. Continue to firmly stuff and shape the shoe as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts. (19sts) 
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts. (17sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (15sts) 
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st. (16sts)

Making the Leg

>Design Tip: There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each row. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

>Design Note: The leg is going to alternate between Color (E) – Off White and Color (C) – Autumn Red. The color changes (noted in bold when they occur) will happen mid-row in order to keep the color change at the back of the leg when working in the round. Alterations can be made if necessary to ensure that the color changes are not seen at the front of the leg.  

Switch to Color (E) – Off White

• Rnd 11: In BLO: Sc in each st around. Mark the front loop of Rnd 10 to return to later when making the cuff. (16sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)

Add additional stuffing up to the top of the shoe but leave the leg unstuffed as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 13: Sc in the next st, Switch to Color (C) – Autumn Red: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout during a color change), sc in the next 10sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (E) – Off White: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C) – Autumn Red: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in the next 2 sts, Switch to Color (E) – Off White: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C) – Autumn Red: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (E) – Off White: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C) – Autumn Red: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (E) – Off White: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C) – Autumn Red: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 30: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 31: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (E) – Off White: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked. (3sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Make or remove sts to obtain the needed position. 
• Cut Color (C) – Autumn Red and tuck the tail inside the leg. Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the shoe facing forwards, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body. 

Making the Cuff

Using Color (B) – Dark Sage

>Design Note: For Rnd 1, with the shoe at the top and the leg facing down, insert the hook into the loop from the bottom of the loop up towards the toe of the shoe. The first stitch is a standing sc.

• Rnd 1: Working in the Front Loops of Rnd 1 of the Leg (where the stitch marker was placed): Leaving a starting tail long enough to weave in, sc in each st around. (16sts)
• Rnd 2: *Sl st in the next st, [sc, dc, ch 2, sl st in the back bar of the 2nd ch from the hook, dc, sc] in the next st* Repeat between * * to end. (8 sl sts and 8 pointed clusters)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off. Weave in the tails.

Hat

Make 1

Using Color (C) – Autumn Red

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6sts)
• Rnd 3: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnds 4-6: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st. (13sts)
• Rnds 8-9: Sc in each st around. (13sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st. (14sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st. (15sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (20sts)
• Rnds 13-14: Sc in each st around. (20sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next st. (21sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (21sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 20sts, 2sc in the next st. (22sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 21sts, 2sc in the next st. (23sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in each st around. (23sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in the next 22sts, 2sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 23sts, 2sc in the next st. (25sts) 
• Rnd 22: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (30sts)
• Rnds 23-25: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (35sts)
• Rnds 27-28: Sc in each st around. (35sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (40sts)
• Rnds 30-31: Sc in each st around. (40sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 32: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (45sts)
• Rnd 33: Sc in each st around. (45sts)
• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (50sts)
• Rnd 35: Sc in each st around. (50sts)
• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (55sts)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (65sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (70sts)
• Rnds 40-42: Sc in each st around. (70sts for 3 Rnds)

Making the Pointed Trim

Switch to Color (B) – Dark Sage

• Rnd 43: Sc in each st around. (70sts)
• Rnd 44: In FLO: sc in each st around. (70sts)
• Rnd 45: In FLO: [sc in the next 34sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sl st to the first st to join (doesn’t’ count as a st). (72sts)
• Rnd 46: Ch 1, turn, skip the same st (mark this space as the starting st), *In BLO: sc in the next st, dc in the next st, [tr, ch 2, sl st in the back bar of the 2nd ch from the hook, tr] in the next st, dc in the next st, sc in the next st, sl st in the next st*. Repeat between * * to end. Finish with the final sl st in the skipped st space to join. (12 pointed clusters)
• Fasten off and weave in the tails.
• If desired, block the points to further shape them.

Pom-Pom for the Hat

Make 1

Using Color (G) – Vanilla

>Design Option: It may also be fun to use a bell on the end of the hat, or substitute a regular pom-pom.

>Design Note: When working with furry yarn the wrong side of the work is often fuzzier than the right side of the work. In the pattern, the wrong side of the pom-pom is on the outside.

>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease when working with furry yarn.

• Rnd 1: Ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnds 3-4: Sc in each st around. (9sts for 2 Rnds)
• Lightly stuff and shape, if desired.
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog ] 3 times. (6sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, secure and weave in the end.
• Use a length of Color (C) – Autumn Red to attach the pom-pom to the end of the hat.

Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Christmas Elf Gnome and stitch securely in place. 

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Belt. Wrap the belt around the body above the tunic with the belt buckle centered in the middle and the collars on top. Stitch the two ends together. Invisibly tack a few places on the belt to ensure that it stays in place. Fold the collars forward.

• Arms. Pin the arms to the body on either side, with the top front of the arm being right next to the edge of the collar angled slightly from the top Rnd of Color (B) – Dark Sage on the body to the top of the belt, thumbs facing towards the body. Stitch along the top of the arm.

• Legs. Pin the legs side by side about two rows in front of the magic circle on the base of the body. Using the tail on the leg attach the leg to the body along the top edge and then along each side of the leg for a couple of rows so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.

• Hat and Ears. Position the hat on the head so the final fasten off place is in the back with one of the points centered over the nose, the hat pulled down enough to sit on top of the nose. With five points centered at the front, pin an ear behind the sixth point on either side of the hat, the back edge resting next to the seventh point. Make sure the ears are both going in the right direction!
  • Stitch about the bottom five rows of the ear to the hat all along the edges, bottom, and back of the ear. Take extra precaution that the ears continue to maintain their position in reference to the entire body so they don’t become crooked.
    • >Design Tips: Keep the hat on the head and add extra pins to keep the ear and hat in place while stitching. This should minimize accidental movement with the ears and the hat. While attaching the back of the ears at about the fifth row from the bottom, take a few stitches through the hat into the body to add extra security to the ears.
  • Using a length of Color (B) – Dark Sage, invisibly tack the tip of the sixth point on each side so it remains positioned over the ear along with several places under the other spikes to keep the hat from moving.

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Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Gift Card Stockings 2. Crochet Gnome 3.Crochet Puppy Dog

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!