Crochet Bunny Gnome

Add a touch of handmade charm to your decor with this adorable Crochet Bunny Gnome! Dressed in cozy overalls, a cute bowtie, and a whimsical hat, this little bunny gnome is perfect for Easter, spring, or year-round cuteness. Whether as a gift or a delightful addition to your home, this Crochet Bunny Gnome will surely bring a smile!

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Bunny Gnome, or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

The Crochet Bunny Gnome has been one of the most requested pattern designs that I’ve received. I’ve been picturing him in my mind and in sketches for some time now, and I’m so excited to bring him to you!

He is an intermediate pattern, but beginners are always encouraged to try as this is how you’ll advance your skills.

Much of his body is made in one piece, and you’ll get to practice seamlessly joining his tail, arms, and ears. The design also includes practicing a bit of embroidery for the nose and stitching on the legs, straps, muzzle, bow tie, and hat. I hope that you enjoy making him as much as I did designing him for you!

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The Yarn

The Crochet Bunny Gnome was made using the Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft line of yarns. It’s a lighter worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles.

For the bodies, I used the Caron Simply Soft Tweed line. This is one of my favorite things to use when making animals because I love the flecked look that it gives. Anything that can add effortless detail and texture is a no-brainer in my book. The fact that it comes in off white, grey, and brown (Taupe) is perfection.

For the other colors, I used the Caron Simply Soft Solids line. You’ll see the colors Berry Blue, Off White, Orchid, Pistachio, Soft Pink, and Sunshine used in various ways amongst the three pictured bunnies. There truly are so many color possibilities in this design. I’m excited to see what you’ll choose.

Oh, and the tail! Options are fun. I’ve shared a simple version using a basic round ball made from worsted yarn, but I’ve also shared a simple way to add fur to the tail for a bigger furry tail. I couldn’t help myself adding this option as well. It had to be an option. For the furry tail, you’ll need Bernat Pipsqueak yarn in the color Vanilla (or something equivalent). Either option you choose will be just perfect for your Crochet Bunny Gnome.

Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Bunny Gnome, but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. You can see the miniature version of the Crochet Bunny Gnome in some of the images. He was made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread. I did notice that due to the stiffer nature of the cotton thread that his ears didn’t want to curve down as much (as they were less pliable) compared to the larger bunnies, but I still like the overall appearance. I have not tried a larger bunny gnome in cotton yarn.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

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Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Embroidery Floss, Dark Brown (DMC 838) OR Black (DMC 310) 
• Embroidery Needle (optional)
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Tweeds (worsted 4-Medium, 97% acrylic, 3% viscose, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (A) Gray Heather Tweed OR Taupe Tweed OR Off White Tweed, used approx. 95 yds/87 m*
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (B) Berry Blue OR Orchid OR Pistachio, used approx. 35 yds/32 m, Color (C) Soft Pink, used approx. 31 yds/28 m, Color (D) Off White, used approx. 16 yds/14 m, Color (E) Berry Blue OR Pistachio OR Sunshine, used approx. 58 yds/53 m, Color (F) Orchid OR Pistachio OR Sunshine, used approx. 10 yds/9 m*
• Yarnspirations Bernat Pipsqueak (5-Bulky 100% polyester, 101 yds/92 m, 3.5 oz/100 g), Color (G) Vanilla, used approx. 3 yds/2.7 m*
• *See below for yarn specifications for each variation of the Crochet Bunny Gnome

• The Miniature Crochet Bunny Gnome shown in some images was made using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Curio #10 thread, Whisker, Color (B):  Aunt Lydia’s #10 thread, Classic Blue Hawaii, Color (C): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Rose Quartz, Color (D): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Eggnog, Color (E): Aunt Lydia’s #10 thread, Olive, Color (F): Aunt Lydia’s #10 thread, Maize. The same pattern is used with a minor change: Use 6 strands of embroidery floss for outlining the nose, but stitch each line only once.  

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Choose from Three Variations of the Crochet Bunny Gnome

• Variation 1 – Grey Bunny

Color (A) Grey Heather Tweed, Color (B) Berry Blue, Color (C) Soft Pink, Color (D) Off White, Color (E) Pistachio, Color (F) Sunshine

• Variation 2 – Brown Bunny

Color (A) Taupe Tweed, Color (B) Pistachio, Color (C) Soft Pink, Color (D) Off White, Color (E) Berry Blue, Color (F) Orchid, (G) Vanilla

• Variation 3 – White Bunny

Color (A) Off White Tweed, Color (B) Orchid, Color (C) Soft Pink, Color (D) Off White, Color (E) Sunshine, Color (F) Pistachio, (G) Vanilla

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Gauge

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx. 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the first 4 Rnds of the body measure approx. 9/16 inch (1.4 cm) in diameter. 

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Finished Measurements

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the Crochet Bunny Gnome measures approx. 7 inches (18 cm) tall with the hat bent at the top. 
• Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the Miniature Crochet Bunny Gnome measures approx. 3.5 inches (9 cm) tall with the hat bent at the top.

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Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. When working in Rows, it will be noted in the pattern.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.

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Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• approx. – approximately
• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loops only
• bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch – chain
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• hdc – half double crochet
• Invisible finish
• MR – magic ring (aka magic circle, adjustable ring)
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• RS – right side
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use the invisible decrease unless directed otherwise)
• sl st – slip stitch
• standing sc – standing single crochet
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• WS – wrong side
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as many times as directed
• * – repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed
• Some hand embroidery

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Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 4dcbo (four double crochet bobble) is used in this pattern. 
To create a 4dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook),
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook),
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10.  Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
11.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (six loops on the hook),
12.  Yarn over and pull through two loops (four legs made, five loops on the hook),
13.  Yarn over and pull through all five loops. (4dcbo completed)

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Bunny Gnome!

Tail

Make 1

Using Color (D)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)

If you want to add furry yarn to the tail, work in the BLO for the rest of the tail; otherwise, continue to work through both loops.

>Design Tips if working in BLO: When decreasing, use a regular sc decrease. Also, mark the unused front loop of the first st of Rnd 2 with a stitch marker for later reference when adding the furry yarn.

• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 4 times. (16sts)
• Rnds 4-6: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off.
• Firmly stuff and shape the tail.

Adding the Furry Yarn to the Tail

Optional

Using Color (G)

• Using the unused front loops of the tail, fasten onto the previously marked st with a standing sc, *skip the next st, sc in the next st. Repeat from * to end, finishing with a sl st in the last st. (47sts) >Design Tip: Keep the furry yarn loose enough on the hook that it easily spans the gap of the skipped stitches.

• >Design Note: Make sure not to st in the final Rnd of sts, just the unworked front loops, as these final 8sts will be used when seamlessly joining the tail to the body. 
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

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Hand and Arm

Make 2

Using Color (A) 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds) 
• Rnd 7: In FLO: Sc in each st around. (12sts) 

Firmly stuff and shape the hand.

• Rnds 8-16: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 9 Rnds)

Lightly stuff the arm, leaving the last couple of Rnds unstuffed.

• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up with the starting st on the right edge and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off.

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Inner and Outer Ears

Make 4, two in Color (C) for the Inner Ear and two in Color (A) for the Outer Ear

>Design Note: The inner and outer ears are worked in turned rows and then seamed together. Start with making the inner ears, then the outer ears. 

Turn and Ch 1 at the end of each Row.

• Ch 2
• Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (2sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in each st across. (4sts)
• Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st. (6sts)
• Row 4: Sc in each st across. (6sts)
• Row 5: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
• Row 6: Sc in each st across. (8sts)
• Row 7: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
• Rows 8-20: Sc in each st across. (10sts for 13 Rows)
• If it’s the Inner Ear, fasten off and weave in the ends. If it’s the Outer Ear, do not fasten off. Weave in the starting tail and continue to join the inner and outer ear together. 

Joining the Inner and Outer Ear Together

Sc the edges of the ears together:

• Place the Inner Ear on top of the Outer Ear, lining up the corners with the working loop at the bottom right corner.
• Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), starting in the bottom right corner sc in the edge of each row (20sts), place 3sc in the top point of the ear (3sts), sc in the edge of each row along the other side (20sts), Ch 1 to help round the corner (counts as a st), sc in each st across the flat portion of the ear (10sts), sl st to the first st to join (counts as a st), fasten off and weave in the end. (55sts) >Design Note: The final 10sts, the ch to round the corner, and the sl st to join will be used later to seamlessly join the ear to the body. It may be helpful to mark the ch and the sl st for later reference when joining. If the exact number of sts is not reached when crocheting around the rest of the ear, it will not matter as much, but these final 12sts will be needed. 

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Muzzle and Embroidered Nose

Muzzle

Make 1

Using Color (D)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 4-6: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching the muzzle to the body. >Design Tip: For a cleaner finish, use the invisible finish to fasten off.

Embroider the Nose on the Muzzle

Using Color (C) (approx. 50 inches/127 cm) and a tapestry needle, embroider the nose. Then, using dark brown or black embroidery floss and an embroidery needle, outline the sides of the nose and stitch a line down from the bottom point.

• Suggested Nose Placement: Pictured, the top points of the triangle are placed between Rnds 3 and 4 with 4sts between points, meeting at a point in the center of the MR. >Design Tip: When making the nose, start by stitching the original triangle and then fill it in with additional stitches, stitching from directly above the top line of the triangle back down into the center each time. Optional: For a fuller-looking nose, once the original triangle is covered and it gets tough to pull the yarn through the MR, move the bottom point of the triangle down a Rnd to between Rnds 1 and 2 and continue to fill in over the entire nose again.

• Suggestions for Adding the Outline Embroidery to the Nose: The lines that go along the sides of the nose and come down from the bottom point of the nose are made in dark brown or black embroidery floss. Pictured, 6 strands were used, and the lines were gone over twice for a bolder look. >Design Tip: Use fewer strands of embroidery floss or outline the nose only once for thinner lines. 

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Feet

Make 2

Using Color (C)

>Design Note: The feet are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. 

• Ch 8
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this as the starting st) and in the next 5ch, 2sc in the next ch (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 5ch, 2sc in the next ch. (15sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next st, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next 4sts, hdc in the next 2sts, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 2sts. (23sts)

Switch to Color (A)

In the next Rnd, the three toes will be added to the foot using a bo stitch. Frequent color changes will be needed. Each time it’s noted to make the bo, switch to Color (C) to make the bo, and then switch back to Color (A) for the next st (if needed, see images).

>Design Tip: Drop or work over the non-working yarn during the color changes instead of cutting them each time. Once the bobbles are completed, Color (C) can be cut and the ends secured.

• Rnd 3: Sc in the next 9sts, [bo in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 8sts. (23sts)

Continue in Color (A)

• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 8sts, 2hdc in the next 7sts, sc in the next 8sts. (30sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog] 7 times, sc in the next 8sts. (23sts) 
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (17sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 3sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts. (13sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the foot and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnds 8-10: Sc in each st around. (13sts for 3 Rnds)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 11: In FLO: Sc in each st around. (13sts) 
• Rnds 12-13: Sc in each st around. (13sts for 2 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off, leaving a long tail to attach the leg to the body. 

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Body

>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom up, starting with the pants. The tail, arms, and ears will be added seamlessly as the pattern progresses.

Using Color (B) 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)

In the next Rnd, the tail is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 9: Join the bottom of the tail to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into any st on the tail from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops (remember to mark this as the first st of the Rnd), continue to join the tail and body sts together for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 44sts. (48sts)

• Rnd 10: Join the top of the tail to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next unworked st on the tail closest to the hook from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops (remember to mark this as the first st of the Rnd), continue to join the tail and body sts together for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 44sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 11-13: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 3 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 14: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (48sts) 
• Rnds 15-21: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 7 Rnds)  

In the next Rnd, the arms are added seamlessly to the body. >Design Note: Either side of the arm can be the RS.

• Rnd 22: Sc in the next 13sts, join the left arm to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the closest stitch of the arm from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 5sts, on the body: sc in the next 18sts, join the right arm to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into the closest stitch of the arm from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 5sts, on the body: sc in the next 5sts. (48sts)

• Rnds 23-28: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 6 Rnds)

In the next Rnd, the ears are added seamlessly to the body. When joining, the ear should be upside down with the inner ear (RS) facing the body. The joining of the ear to the body will occur using the bottom 12sts of the ear to those specified in the pattern for the body.

• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 15sts, join the left ear to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the closest stitch of the ear from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the ear, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the ear and body sts together for the next 11sts, on the body: sc in the next 5sts, join the right ear to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into the closest stitch of the ear from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the ear, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the ear and body sts together for the next 11sts, on the body: sc in the next 4sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 30-33: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 4 Rnds) 

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

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Hat

The Hat is made from the top down to the brim.

Using Color (E) 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (18sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (21sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (27sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (27sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (30sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (33sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (33sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (39sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (39sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (42sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (42sts)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (45sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (45sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 7sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 30: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (51sts)
• Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (51sts)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 34: Sc in each st around. (54sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (57sts)
• Rnd 36: Sc in the next 14sts, ch 12, skip 12, sc in the next 5sts, ch 12, skip 12, sc in the next 14sts. (57sts)
• Rnd 37: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 12sc in the ch 12 space, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 12sc in the ch 12 space, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 38: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (63sts)
• Rnd 40: Sc in each st around. (63sts)
• Rnd 41: Sl st in each st around. (63sts) >Design Tip: The sl st adds a nice edge to the brim but will tighten the brim’s edge, so make sure not to sl st too tightly. It may help to go up a hook size if the edge is fitting too tightly over the body.
• Fasten off using the invisible finish. If tacking the hat to the body so it can’t be removed, leave a long tail for stitching it to the body; otherwise, weave in the end.

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Bow Tie

Make 1

Using Color (F)

Turn and ch 1 and the end of each row.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows.

• Ch 4
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (3sts)
• Row 2: Sc in each st across. (3sts)
• Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st. (5sts)
• Rows 4-8: Sc in each st across. (5sts for 5 Rows) 
• Row 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog. (3sts)
• Row 10: Sc in each st across. (3sts)
• Rows 11-19: Repeat Rows 2-10.
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail (45+ inches/114+ cm) for stitching the bow together, wrapping the center of the bow, and attaching the bow to the body. Weave in the starting tail.

• Bring the short edges of the bow to the center and whip-stitch them together. Wrap the tail around the center of the bow several times to create the center, and then, with a tapestry needle, secure it on the back of the bow. Leave the tail for attaching it to the body. 

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Straps for the Pants

Make 2

Using Color (B)

>Design Option: The straps can be straight or cross in the back. 

>Design Tip: It may be helpful to assemble the bunny first and then make the straps so it’s easier to see where they look and fit the best.

• Ch 26 for a straight strap and Ch 32 for a strap that will cross in the back. >Design Tip: Hold the strap up to the body where it should land in the front, going over the arm, and land in the back to ensure that the length is correct. Add or subtract chains as needed. (26ch, 32ch)
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (25sts, 31sts)
• Again, ensure that the strap meets the desired length. 
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the strap to the body. Weave in the starting tail.

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Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Bunny Gnome and stitch securely into place.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Muzzle: Stuff and shape the muzzle. The muzzle is centered between the ears with the top at approx. Rnd 29 of the body and the bottom at approx. Rnd 22. Right before closing the hole, add additional stuffing to fill the gap between the muzzle and the body. >Design Tip: Before stitching the muzzle to the body, put the hat on to make sure it rests properly over the top of the muzzle.

• Feet: Center the feet with the muzzle, arms, and ears. The bottom of the legs rest at approx. Rnd 7 and the top at approx. Rnd 12, with approx. 4-5sts between the legs. Right before closing the hole, add additional stuffing as needed to fill the gap between the leg and the body. 
• Bow Tie: Stitch the bow tie at the center back and in additional places as needed for stability at approx. 1 Rnd below the muzzle.

• Pant’s Straps: The straps are stitched along the top of the pants at the back and in the front. At the back, they are stitched straddling the tail, are then either left straight or are crossed, run over the top of the arms, and are then centered and stitched aligning with the front of the legs. If desired, additional places along the strap can also be tacked to keep it in place. >Design Tip: If desired, after stitching the strap at the back, the yarn tail can be threaded through the body to reach the front of the strap for stitching.
• Hat: If desired, tack the hat to the body in several places near the brim so it cannot be removed.

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Add Carrots to Your Crochet Bunny Gnome

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Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!