The Crochet Bobble Sheep pattern is sure to bring extra cuteness and fun into life whether making just one or a whole flock of sheep.
It’s perfect for spring decor, farm decor, imaginative play, gift-giving to the sheep lovers in your life, and so much more!
At the end of this project, you’ll also be an expert at making crochet bobbles too! Happy Crocheting!
Read on to learn more about my inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Bobble Sheep or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.
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The Inspiration
Don’t you just love spring?!! There’s just something magical about the world openly inviting us to take a big sigh of relief, to shake off winter, and take in the color and sunshine that is popping up all around us!
It’s a time when everyone seems more open to decluttering and making room for new and better life experiences. You see new hopes, new dreams, and renewed life all over the place! It’s just exciting!
Designing the Crochet Bobble Sheep was no different. I was literally giddy with excitement as with each stitch made it seemed as if he was just asking to be brought into existence!
Needless to say, I’m happy with how he turned out and hope that you will love him as much as I do!
I hope that you too enjoy making your very own Crochet Bobble Sheep. Happy Crocheting!
The Yarn
I chose to use Red Heart Super Saver Yarn for the Crochet Bobble Sheep. It is an acrylic, worsted weight, size 4 yarn that is quite inexpensive, is typically available both in stores and online, and comes in a wide variety of colors.
Red Heart Super Saver yarns have been around for a very long time. In fact, it was the first yarn that I used when learning to crochet about 30 years ago.
I chose this yarn because I truly believe that making for others doesn’t have to be expensive so that everyone can participate, and to show that using inexpensive acrylic yarns can still result in adorable, giveable items.
That said, feel free to use up any worsted weight yarn that you may have in your stash or to buy the yarn that you like to work with most.
Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Bobble Sheep but note that due to variations among brands that the finished size of your sheep may vary slightly.
Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.
If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine.
As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations to share!
The Pattern
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
- Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)
- Stitch Marker(s)
- Scissors
- Poly-fil Stuffing
- Pins
- Tapestry Needle
- Safety eyes, 12 mm
- Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g), Color (A) Aran, used approx. 125 yds/114 m, Color (B) Charcoal, used approx. 106 yds/97 m, Color (C) Baby Pink, used approx. 1 yds/1 m
Gauge
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body measure approximately 2.25 inches (5.7 cm) in diameter.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) sheep stands about 6.5 inches tall (17 cm) and at the widest part around mouth and body is about 18 inches (46 cm) in circumference.
Design Notes
- The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
- The majority of the pattern is written in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. The face is made in turned rows.
- At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
- Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
- Caution! If using safety eyes, take into consideration who will be using the item. The use of safety eyes is not recommended for children under the age of three or for those prone to putting things in their mouth as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand-embroidered eyes are a great alternative!
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
- BLO – back loop only
- bo -bobble (described below under special stitches)
- ch – chain
- FLO – front loop only
- Rnd(s) – round(s)
- Row(s) – row(s)
- sc – single crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use an invisible decrease unless otherwise indicated)
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(s)
- [ ] – work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
- magic circle/adjustable ring
Special Stitches
Bobble (bo): A 4dcbo (four double crochet bobble) is used in this pattern. Essentially it’s 4 half-finished double crochets worked all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as one stitch, creating a puffy stitch.
To create a 4dcbo
With the working loop on the hook:
- Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
- Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
- Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
- Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
- Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (six loops on the hook)
- Yarn over and pull through two loops (four legs made, five loops on the hook),
- Yarn over and pull through all five loops. (4dcbo completed)
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Let’s Make Our Sheep!
Body
Using Color (B)
Make 1
>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom to the top.
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
- Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
Switch to Color (A)
- Rnd 10: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 27 times. (54sts)
- Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
- Rnd 12: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 30 times. (60sts)
- Rnd 13: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
- Rnd 14: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 14 times, sc in the next 14sts, [sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 9 times. (60sts)
- Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
- Rnd 16-23: [Repeat Rnd 14 and Rnd 15] 4 times. (60sts for 8 Rnds)
- Rnd 24: Repeat Rnd 14. (60sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
- Rnd 25: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next st] 20 times. (40sts)
- Rnd 26: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 20 times. (40sts)
- Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 3st, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
- Rnd 28: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 16 times. (32sts)
- Rnd 29: [Sc2tog] 16 times. (16sts)
- Rnd 30: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 8 times. (16sts)
- Rnd 31: [Sc2tog] 8 times. (8sts)
- Rnd 32: Sc in the 1st st, bo in the next st, sl st in the next st, leave the remaining sts unworked.
- Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the hole closed. When stitching, secure the last bobble created over the hole.
Ears
Using Color (B)
Make 2
- Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (4sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (8sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2sc in next st] 4 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 4 times. (16sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (20sts)
- Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (28sts)
- Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (28sts)
- Rnd 9: [Sc in next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (32sts)
- Rnds 10-19: Sc in each st around. (32sts for 10 Rows)
- Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (28sts)
- Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 22: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (20sts)
- Rnd 23: [ Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (16sts)
- Rnd 24: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 25: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
- Sl st to the 1st st. Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the ears to the body.
Face
Using Color (B)
Make 1
>Design Note: The face is made in rows working from the bottom to the top.
>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows.
Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.
- Ch 19
- Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (18sts)
- Rows 2-3: Sc in each st across. (18sts for 2 Rows)
- Row 4: Sc in the next 4sts, [2sc in the next st] 10 times, sc in the next 4sts. (28sts)
- Rows 5-7: Sc in each st across. (28sts for 3 rows)
- Row 8: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 16sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (26sts)
- Row 9: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (22sts)
- Row 10: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (20sts)
- Rows 11-12: Sc in each st across. (20sts for 2 Rows)
- Row 13: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts. (19sts)
- Row 14: Sc in each st across. (19sts)
- Row 15: Sc2tog, sc in the next 15ts, sc2tog. (17sts)
In the next section, the entire outer edge of the face is worked around. Weave in the starting tail or work over it while working this section.
- Sc around the entire outer edge of the face placing 2sc in the corners to help round them. At the end, sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the face to the body.
Tail
Using Color (A)
Make 1
- Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (4sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (8sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 4 times. (8sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (12sts)
- Rnd 5: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 6 times. (12sts)
- Sl st to the 1st st. Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the tail to the body.
- Stuff the tail.
Feet
Using Color (B)
Make 4
- Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
- Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
- Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
- Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
- Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times. (24sts)
- Rnd 5: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
- Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
Switch to Color (A)
- Rnd 7-8: In FLO: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 rows)
- Sl st to the 1st st. Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the feet to the body.
Assembly
Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Bobble Sheep and stitch securely into place. See additional images if needed to help with placement.
>Design Note: Remember on the face that the Rows are counted from the bottom up and that there was an additional round made around the entire face which was not counted when determining the suggested placement.
General placement and stitching suggestions:
- Face/Eyes/Nose:
- Eyes: Add the safety eyes to the face. The suggested placement is centered on the face between Rows 14 and 15 approximately 7sts apart (5sts visible once inserted). >Design Tip: Wait to add the backs to the eyes until after stitching the nose to ensure the overall desired appearance is met.
- Nose: Stitch the nose Using Color (C) centered on the face below the eyes with the top of the V between approximately Row 8 and 9, 5sts apart at the top and coming to a point between Row 5 and 6, the line coming down from the bottom of the V, ending between Row 3 and 4. For a thicker-looking nose, stitch each line twice.
- Stuffing the Face: Stuff the protruding portion of the muzzle before pinning it to the body. The face covers the portion of the body without bobbles with the top stitched at about Rnd 26 of the body and the bottom at about Rnd 12 of the body, both bobble rounds. When stitching add additional stuffing before completely closing the hole to obtain the desired overall shape for the face.
- Feet: Firmly stuff and shape the feet. Position the four feet so they rest all within the bottom Color (B) portion of the body and align centered with the face. The inside of each of the feet will rest at about Rnd 2-3 of the body. When stitching add additional stuffing if needed before completely closing the hole to fill the gap between the feet and the body.
- Tail: Center the tail on the back, bottom portion of the body over approximately Rnds 12-14 of the body. When stitching add additional stuffing if needed before completely closing the hole.
- Ears: The open portion of the ears are stitched vertically on either side of the face. For one of the sheep pictured the top half of the ears at about Rnd 26 of the body (the bobble row just above the attached face) and the bottom half stitched to the upper corners/top couple of rows of the face. For the other sheep pictured the entire ear is stitched at the top corner of the face. Stitch as preferred.
Looking for more amigurumi patterns?
These may be of interest! 1. Classic Crochet Teddy Bear 2. Crochet Heart Pillow 3. Rosette Swirl Crochet Cupcake
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Copyright and Use Policy
This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!
Larryn says
This is adorable! Thank you for sharing the pattern. I need to use some scrap yarn up and this will not only do that, but will give me a truly cute result. Thank you!
Jen says
I’m so glad you like it. I love being able to use up scrap yarn too. I’d love to see it when you finish if you get a chance to share. Happy Crocheting!
Grace says
Hello! I am working on the feet right now — I noticed in the photos there is a color change at some point from B to A (bottom-up). But I don’t see any instructions for the color change in the pattern. Would appreciate the help! Thank you.
Jen says
Hey! Thanks for catching this. I’ve updated the pattern now to reflect this. It’s Rnd 7 and 8 that are worked in Color (A). To be honest, I’ve made this design both with and without that color change. Because the bottom of the body is made in Color (B) in some ways I like the solid leg and in other ways I like it with the color change like shown in the images. Thanks again for reaching out. If you have any further questions please let me know. Wishing you a wonderful day and happy crocheting!
Tracy says
Hi Jen,
This Sheep is adorable. I am currently finishing up the body. I think there is a typo on row 32.
“Rnd 32: Sc in the 1st st, bo in the next st, Al st in the next st, leave the remaining sts unworked. ”
I believe that the Al st should say sl st. I looked at the stitches used and didn’t see an Al st so this is all I can think it might mean.
Thank you for the free pattern!
Jen says
You are correct. Thanks for pointing that out. It’s a typo and should read as a sl st. I’ve made the corrections. I’m so glad that you like the pattern. Thanks for your kindness. Best wishes and happy crocheting! 😊
Steven says
Hello! I’m currently working on this pattern and just started row 10 with the bobbles. All my bobbles are pushing out to the inside. Is it being flipped inside out? I’m fairly new to amigurumi and I’m a little confused. Any help is appreciated!
Jen says
Thanks for reaching out. Great question! What you’re experiencing is absolutely normal. When you work in rows the bobble stitches would typically be worked on the wrong side of the piece so they are naturally pushed forward to the right side of the work as they are created. Because amigurumi is typically worked in a continuous round with the right side facing out all the time, unless you manipulate the bobble stitch some as you make it to keep the bobble to the front of the work, you will need to push them out with your finger to the right side of the piece. (If you like the look some people will also leave the “wrong side” facing out, so that is an option as well. ) I hope that helps. If you have any further questions please don’t hesitate to ask.
Steven says
Thank you for the quick response! I tried manipulating the stitches to keep them to the front but they just look flat and uneven. I definitely prefer how they look on the wrong side. If I leave the wrong side facing out, will this change the pattern in any way? Thanks!
Jen says
As far as the pattern goes you should be able to leave either side facing out without having to change the actual written pattern. There is a different look to the “wrong side” and the “right side” of a crochet piece, so as long as you like the look, go with it. There are some who actually prefer the look of the “wrong side” for all their amigurumi, not just when dealing with bobble stitches. I hope that helps. If you run into any other questions let me know.