Crochet Baseball Bat

Alright! Let’s knock things out of the ballpark and make all our favorite baseball fans a crochet baseball bat!
And everyone knows that a good bat needs a great ball to go with it.
I can help you out with this too! You can find the free pattern for the crochet baseball here!

Recently one of my nephews requested that I make him a crocheted baseball to go along with his baseball-themed bedroom. I was happy to oblige and you could say that I spent the last several weeks thinking more about baseball than I have in my entire life! Personally, I’m a bigger soccer fan and would struggle to hit a baseball if my life depended on it, but I totally get the excitement behind a great baseball game. And hello, it’s major iconic.

I aim to please, and after figuring out how to make the most realistic crochet version of a baseball I could, I decided that I couldn’t just leave it at a ball, I needed to make a bat as well. This was an entertaining, learning, and rewarding endeavor to say the least. After several versions, I finally came up with one that I was satisfied with enough to share with you. Could I modify it more, certainly, but quite honestly I was satisfied with my work and ready to move on.

Then enters hubby’s idea. Now I must preface this with the fact that I have the best and most supportive husband in the world. He liked my bat but thought that it would be even cooler to not just have it be a decorative bat, but one that you could hold and swing like a real bat. So with his help, we set out on yet another baseball adventure to create another version of the crochet baseball bat, a version that would be more usable. So today I have included a couple of versions of the bat pattern for you!

The first version is a more decorative version (although if stuffed firmly it will still stand upright when held). For the second version, hubby helped me to create a center to the bat that is a bit more sturdy by adding a foam core made out of a pool noodle. In all honesty, this took a bit of trial and error and in the end, the bat is a bit sturdier than the first version, but I know that with even more modifications it could be made to be even sturdier, but friends, I’m done making bats for a while.

After our experience, my personal thoughts are that if you really want your bat to be super usable and covered in crochet, go with the method of purchasing a foam bat and then use the bat as a template to crochet a covering for it. Although this does limit the size(s) that you can make your bat, it will be stable and usable.

Now, because we went through the whole process of cutting the foam noodle and documenting how we did everything I’m going to give you the guidelines of what we did and from there you can decide what you would like to do and think of ways to make it better if you’d like to try making a DIY foam center, or you can just have a more decorative bat and that is awesome too!

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Let’s Get Started!

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/3.5 mm hook 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing 
• Tapestry needle
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing
• Foam Pool Noodle and Duct Tape if you choose this design option (optional) (See below under Foam Centered Baseball Bat for more details)
• Yarnspirations Caron One Pound (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, Approx. 812 yds/742 m, 16 oz/453.6 g), Color (A) Lace, 1 skein, Color (B) Off White, 1 skein

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn the Crochet Baseball Bat measures approx.19.5 inches (49.5 cm) in length and 8.75 inches (22 cm) in circumference at the widest point.

Design Notes

• This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. I chose to use a size E crochet hook. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing to show through. If a different-sized hook works better for you, then by all means, use it! Do note, however, that changing the hook size or the type of yarn you are using will affect the size and look of your finished item.
• This pattern is written in rounds.
• It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and to move it up as you start each additional round.
• At the end of each round, I will note in parenthesis how many stitches you should have once completed.
• Exact gauge is not essential to this project, but tension should be maintained.
• One skein of these yarns will make multiple bats.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• ch – Chain
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

As a design option, you can add some surface crochet on the handle. This is totally optional.

Decorative Baseball Bat

You’ll be working from the top of the bat down to the base. It will be all one piece but you will change colors a couple times.

Firmly stuff and shape your piece as you go. Adding stuffing and shaping right up to the end before you close the final hole.

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (42sts)

>Design Note: At this point, my piece is measuring 2.75 inches/6.98 cm across. You don’t need to be overly concerned with gauge, just keep your tension even.

• Rnds 8-19: Sc in each st around (42sts for 12 rounds)
• Rnd 20: Sc in the next 20sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 20sts (41sts)
• Rnds 21-31: Sc in each st around (41sts for 12 rounds)
• Rnd 32: Sc in the next 19sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 18sts, sc2tog (39sts)
• Rnds 33-43: Sc in each st around (39sts for 11 rounds)
• Rnd 44: [Sc in the next 11sc, sc2tog] 3 times (36sts)
• Rnds 45-55: Sc in each st around (36sts for 11 rounds)
• Rnd 56: [Sc in the next 10sc, sc2tog] 3 times (33sts)
• Rnds 57-62: Sc in each st around (39sts for 6 rounds)
• Rnd 63: [Sc in the next 9sc, sc2tog] 3 times (30sts)
• Rnds 64-67: Sc in each st around (30sts for 4 rounds)
• Rnd 68: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 2 times (26sts)
• Rnds 69-70: Sc in each st around (26sts for 2 rounds)
• Rnd 71: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times (22sts)
• Rnd 72: Sc in each st around (22sts)

Switch to Color (B)

>Design Note: I simply switched colors here and later added surface stitching to the handle portion to add detail but it might also be fun to make this a higher contrasting color or to possibly add stripes.

• Rnd 73: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 2 times (18sts)
• Rnds 74-103: Sc in each st around (18sts for 30 rounds)

Switch back to Color (A)

• Rnd 104: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 9 times (27sts)
• Rnd 105: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 9 times (36sts)
• Rnd 106: Sc in each st around (36sts)
• Rnd 107: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 9 times (27sts)
• Rnd 108: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 9 times (18sts)
• Rnd 109: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
• Rnd 110: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
• Sl st and fasten off. Leave a tail long enough to close up the hole.

>Design Tip: I think the hole closes more nicely if you close it with your tapestry needle, working in the front loops only, and work with your needle from the inside of the hole out in each stitch around until the hole is completely closed. Tie off. Bury your yarn end and cut off any excess.

Surface Stitching

If you would like to add a bit more design and texture to your handle you might enjoy adding some surface work. I started by adding lines to the top and bottom of the handle right where there are color changes. The third line I put in the middle of the two lines I just created and then segmented each of the sections once again for a total of 5 surface line spaces as equally as possible along the handle.

Foam Center Baseball Bat

As I noted in the introduction to this post, adding the foam center took quite a bit of trial and error in both the shaping of the foam and crocheting around it. If you choose to try this method I will not guarantee that everything will line up exactly. You need to feel comfortable making your own design modifications, possibly even as you go along. In making this bat I had to modify the crochet portion of the bat. I will note all of the changes I made to the pattern below. And, like I said before, if your real reason for making this bat is the function then you might want to just purchase a foam bat for your center. Cutting the pool noodle smaller for the handle weakens its strength and usability some.

When picking out your pool noodle or foam piece (I got mine at Walmart for under a dollar) you will want to choose a noodle that is not too squishy when squeezed. For structural purposes you want it to be as firm as possible. My noodle was 2.5 inches/6.35cm in diameter.

Pattern Modifications

When crocheting around the foam I found that no matter how careful I was the foam core inevitably didn’t stay in place and slid down as I crocheted and added additional batting. To help with this I crocheted the first seven rounds of the pattern and then took a piece of yarn and a long needle and physically secured the top crochet piece to the piece of foam. I still kept an eye on it as I worked to watch for too much movement, but didn’t have any issues after I did this.

The breakdown of our foam sizes (after wrapped in duct tape) are as such: The total length is about 17.5 inches (44.5 cm) long. The top circumference of the foam is about 5 inches (13 cm) for about 11 inches (28 cm) of the length. The handle portion is about 4 inches (10 cm)for about 5.5 inches (14 cm). Inbetween the top and the handle is a section that tapers some and thus varies in measurement to some degree for about 4.5 inches (ll.5 cm). We used an Exacto knife to cut the foam and then wrapped it with duct tape to shape it.

Alright, now let’s discuss the changes I made to the crochet portion. I started out working on the original design but part way through learned that I needed to either rip out my work and modify the foam piece or modify the crochet. I chose the latter.

When making the bat you will be crocheting around the actual foam piece. You will still want to add extra stuffing as you go along and shape the piece the best that you can. Having a chopstick or other similar object to help push stuffing into the gaps will be helpful.

I was able to work Rnds 1-56 just as they are written in the regular pattern and then I modified the pattern as follows. Please remember you may need to modify and adapt even more to fit your particular foam shape.

• Rnds 57-65: Sc in each st around (39sts for 9 rounds)
• Rnd 66: [Sc in the next 9sc, sc2tog] 3 times (30sts)
• Rnds 67-75: Sc in each st around (30sts for 9 rounds)
• Rnd 76: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 2 times (26sts)
• Rnds 77-83: Sc in each st around (26sts for 7 rounds)
• Rnd 84: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times (22sts)
• Rnds 85-88: Sc in each st around (22sts for 4 rounds)

Switch to Color (B)

>Design Note: I simply switched colors here and later added surface stitching to the handle portion to add detail but it might also be fun to make this a higher contrasting color or to possibly add stripes.

• Rnd 89: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 2 times (18sts)
• Rnds 90-123: Sc in each st around (18sts for 34 rounds)

Switch back to Color (A)

• Rnd 124: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 9 times (27sts)
• Rnd 125: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 9 times (36sts)
• Rnd 126: Sc in each st around (36sts)
• Rnd 127: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 9 times (27sts)
• Rnd 128: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 9 times (18sts)
• Rnd 129: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
• Rnd 130: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
• Sl st and fasten off. Leave a tail long enough to close up the hole.

>Design Tip: I think the hole closes more nicely if you close it with your tapestry needle, working in the front loops only, and work with your needle from the inside of the hole out in each stitch around until the hole is completely closed. Tie off. Bury your yarn end and cut off any excess.

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Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Small Animal Collection: Elephant 2. Simple Amigurumi Penguin 3. Small Animal Collection: Horse

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