Crochet Angel

Crochet Angel is here! You had to know this pattern was coming. One because I announced that it would be when I posted the pattern for Stitch, but also because you can’t make Stitch and not have Angel by his side, right?!

Seriously these two are one of the cutest couples ever!

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The Inspiration

Okay, who doesn’t love a good couple?!! I’m a sucker for cute couples and fun love stories, so after making Stitch I knew that I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to also make his love interest, Angel! If you haven’t seen the pattern for Stitch yet then you should totally check it out HERE!

Because Angel’s features are very similar to Stitch’s you’ll find many of the pattern parts to be the same or slightly modified from those of Stitch. Of course Angel will have her unique markings and her characteristic antennae.

The Yarn

For this design I kept it simple and utilized some of the Red Heart Super Saver yarn that I had in my stash. When using acrylic yarn for my amigurumi projects Red Heart is definitely one of my go to yarns because of it’s wide variety of color options.

The Pattern

An Important Note About Fan Art

I enjoy making and appreciate the craft of fan art. I love seeing what creators of all mediums come up with and share. Fan art is what got me back into crocheting after a long hiatus and has been a personal stress relief and lifesaver over the years. That said, I also strongly value the copyright of these licensed characters. While, as fans, we may create them because we love, admire, and appreciate them, it is very important that we recognize that the patterns and finished items should only be used for personal use, gift-giving, and spreading kindness not to sell or gain profit.

Unlike my other patterns, the fan art pieces I share will NEVER have a printable PDF option, free or paid.

Angel is a character from the film Lilo & Stitch produced by Walt Disney Feature Animation and released by Walt Disney Pictures. I in no way have any rights to this character. This piece is strictly fan art, my individual interpretation of this character in crochet form. My work is unofficial and has no connection with the creators in any way. If you are the copyright holder of this character and would prefer that this fan art piece be removed, please contact me and I will be glad to honor your wishes.

Difficulty

Intermediate. Pattern requires some color changing within the round, skipped stitches, bobble stitches, using pipe cleaners, and atypical pattern increasing/decreasing and stitch counts within the design.

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Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Tapestry Needle
• Pins
• 2 pipe cleaners (I used pink, but they will be crocheted over so color doesn’t matter as long as you can’t see them through your stitches)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing
• Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/ 333 m, 7 oz/198 g): Color (A) Light Raspberry, used approx. 150 yds/ 137 m, Color (B) Baby Pink, used approx. 21 yds/ 19 m, Color (C) Medium Purple, used approx. 40 yds/ 37 m, Color (D) White, used approx. 2 yds/ 2 m, Color (E) Black, used approx. 10 yds/ 9 m

Gauge

Gauge is not necessarily essential to this project, but tension tight enough to keep stuffing from showing through should be maintained.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) Angel measures approximately 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) tall, not including her ears. With her ears straight up she’s approximately 8.5 inches (22 cm).

Design Notes

• This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. I chose to use a size E crochet hook. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing to show through. If a different-sized hook works better for you, then by all means, use it! Do note, however, that if you change the hook size or the type of yarn you are using, this will have an effect on the size and look of your finished item.
• This pattern is written both in rounds and rows. Watch for indicated instructions in the pattern. When working in rounds it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up as you start each additional round.
• At the end of each round/row, I will note in parenthesis how many stitches you should have once completed.
• Further design notes will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• bo -bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch – Chain
• dc – double crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Rows – Rows
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (I use the invisible decrease when working in the Rnd and a regular decrease when working in Rows)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• trbl – treble st
• [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): In this pattern, we will be using the 4dcbo (four double crochet bobble). Essentially it’s 4 half-finished double crochets all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as one stitch. And because that is all sorts of confusing, here are some directions! You create the bobble as follows:

With the original single loop on your hook from your previous stitch(es)

1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook)
3. Yarn over and pull through two of the loops
4. Stop here! (two loops on your hook). If you were doing a full double crochet you would yarn over again and pull it through the final two loops to finish the dc, but with a bobble you stop halfway, leaving the extra loop on the hook. One “leg” of the bobble is complete.

Ok, now repeat steps 1-4, three more times, inserting the hook into the same stitch that you just worked into. Also, remember that each time you repeat the sequence you should have one more loop added to your hook (one more “leg” completed).
Now, yarn over and pull through all five of the loops on your hook. This closes your bobble stitch. Congratulations, you just made a bobble!

>Design Note: When making bobbles some patterns will have you make a chain after you have made the bobble to secure them even more. I DO NOT have you make this chain in the pattern, simply make your next stitch as directed in the pattern.

Let’s Make Angel!

Body

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times (32sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts (38sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts (44sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts (50sts)
• Rnds 9-14: Sc in each st around (50sts for 6Rnds)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 10 times (40sts)
• Rnds 16-18: Sc in each st around (40sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 10 times (30sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as you go.

• Rnds 20-24: Sc in each st around (30sts for 5Rnds)
  Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
  Rnds 26-27: Sc in each st around (24sts for 2Rnds)
  Sl st, fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing the body to the head.

Head

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times (32sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts (38sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts (44sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts (50sts)
• Rnds 9-14: Sc in each st around (50sts for 6Rnds)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts (44sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts (38sts)

>Design Note: For the next few Rnds you will be changing colors within the Rnd. I personally cut the yarn with each color change and tied the ends on the inside for added security.

• Rnd 17: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 2 times, Using Color (B): sc in the next 16sts, Using Color (A): [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts (34sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the head and continue to do so as you go.

• Rnd 18: Using Color (A): [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts, Using Color (B): [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts, Using Color (A): [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times (28sts)
• Rnd 19: Using Color (A): [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times, Using Color (B): sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts (23sts)
• Rnd 20: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, Using Color (B): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st (19sts)
• Rnd 21: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, Using Color (B): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog (15sts)
• Rnd 22: Using Color (A): Sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st, Using Color (B): sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, Using Color (A): sc in the next st, sc2tog (11sts)
• Rnd 23: Using Color (A): Sc in the next st, sc2tog, leave the remaining sts unworked. Sl st, fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the hole closed.

> Design Tip: I think the hole closes more nicely if you close it with your tapestry needle working in the front loops only and work with your needle from the inside of the hole out in each stitch around until the hole is completely closed. Then tie off, bury your yarn end, and cut off any excess.

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around (18sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching the nose to the head.

Eyes

Make 2

Using Color (E)

• Rnd 1: 7hdc, dc, trbl, dc in adjustable (magic) circle (10sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 7hdc, dc, trbl, dc in the 2nd chain from hook (10sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, (hdc, dc, hdc) all in the next st, sc in the next st (14sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 3: slst in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [2hdc in the next st] 3 times, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, (hdc, dc) in the next st, (dc, hdc) in the next st, sc in the next st (21sts)
• Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the eye to the head.

Spot on the Eye

Make 2

Using Color (D)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the spot onto the eye. Weave in the beginning tail.

Tummy Patch

Make 1

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: You will be working in rows to make the tummy patch. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row.

• Ch 7
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the chain sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each st across (6sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the last st (8sts)
• Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the last st (10sts)
• Row 4: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the last st (12sts)
• Rows 5-9: Sc in each st across (12sts for 5 rows)
• Row 10: sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog (10sts)
• Rows 11-12: Sc in each st across (10sts for 2 rows)
• Row 13: sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog (8sts)
• Rows 14-15: Sc in each st across (8sts for 2 rows)
• Row 16: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog (6sts)
• Rows 17-18: Sc in each st across (6sts for 2 rows)
• Ch1 and sc around the entire outer edge of the tummy patch. There is no need to sc around the very top if you worked in the back bar of the beginning chain.

>Design Tip: If you find it difficult to nicely sc around any part of the tummy patch so it lays flat, try putting 2sc in the same st.

• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the tummy patch to the body.

Right Arm

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)

>Design Note: In the next Rnd you will be making the claws and therefore switching colors back and forth. I personally carried the colors across, alternating between the two rather than cutting them each time, but do what is easiest for you. If you cut the yarn each time you may wish to knot the ends on the inside for added security.

• Rnd 4: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 6sts, [Using Color (C): Ch4, now working in the back bars of the ch sc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in the next 2 chains, Using Color (A): Sc in the next 2sts] 4times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 4sts (18sts + 4 claws)

Using Color (A) for the remainder of the piece:

• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, [push the claw forward and sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, sc in the next 4sts (18sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts (16sts)

About Rnd 10 begin stuffing and shaping your arm and continue to do so as you go.

• Rnds 7-16: Sc in each st around (16sts for 10Rnds)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked (3sts)

>Design Note: You will now begin working in Rows. The pattern numbering will continue to count up rather than starting over.

• Row 18: turn, ch1, sc in the next 11sts (11sts)
• Row 19: turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
• Row 20: turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.

Left Arm

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)

>Design Note: In the next Rnd you will be making the claws and therefore switching colors back and forth. I personally carried the colors across, alternating between the two rather than cutting them each time, but do what is easiest for you. If you cut the yarn each time you may wish to knot the ends on the inside for added security.

• Rnd 4: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 6sts, [Using Color (C): Ch4, now working in the back bars of the ch sc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in the next 2 chains, Using Color (A): Sc in the next 2sts] 4times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 4sts (18sts + 4 claws)

Using Color (A) for the remainder of the piece:

• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, [push the claw forward and sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, sc in the next 4sts (18sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts (16sts)

About Rnd 10 begin stuffing and shaping your arm and continue to do so as you go.

• Rnds 7-16: Sc in each st around (16sts for 10Rnds)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 11sts, leave the remaining sts unworked (11sts)

>Design Note: You will now begin working in Rows. The pattern numbering will continue to count up rather than starting over.

• Row 18: turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
• Row 19: turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.

Right Leg

Make 1

Using Color (C)

>Design Note: When working the legs you will be working in both rounds and rows. When decreasing I use the invisible decrease if working in Rnds and a regular decrease when working in Rows.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times (24sts)

>Design Note: For the next row you will be alternating colors so watch for these noted changes. I personally carried the colors across, alternating between the two rather than cut them each time, but do what is easiest for you. If you cut the yarn each time you may wish to knot the ends on the inside for added security.

• Rnd 5: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 5sts, [Using Color (C): bo, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 7sts (24sts)

Continue with Color (A) for the remainder of the leg

• Rnd 6 : Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in the next 9sts (21sts)
• Rnds 7-14: Sc in each st around (21sts for 8Rnds)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 2sts, leave the remaining sts unworked (2sts)

>Design Note: You will now begin working in Rows. The pattern numbering will continue to count up rather than starting over.

• Row 16: Turn, ch 1, sc in the next 13sts (13sts)
• Row 17: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog (11sts)
• Row 18: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.
• Firmly stuff and shape the leg.

Left Leg

Make 1

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times (24sts)

>Design Note: For the next row you will be alternating colors so watch for these noted changes. I personally carried the colors across, alternating between the two rather than cutting them each time, but do what is easiest for you. If you cut the yarn each time you may wish to knot the ends on the inside for added security.

• Rnd 5: Using Color (A): Sc in the next 5sts, [Using Color (C): bo, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 7sts (24sts)

Continue with Color (A) for the remainder of the leg

• Rnd 6 : Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in the next 9sts (21sts)
• Rnds 7-14: Sc in each st around (21sts for 8Rnds)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 11sts, leave the remaining sts unworked (11sts)

>Design Note: You will now begin working in Rows.

• Row 16: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog (11sts)
• Row 17: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.
• Firmly stuff and shape the leg.

Ears

Inner Ear

Make 2

>Design Note: You will be working in rows to make the ear pieces. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row.

Using Color (C)

• Ch 2
• Row 1: Working in the back bar of the chain 2sc in the 2nd ch from hook (2sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in the next 2sts (4sts)
• Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the last st (6sts)
• Row 4: Sc in each st across (6sts)

>Design Note: In the next row you will be alternating colors a bit.

• Row 5: Using Color (C): 2sc in the first st, Using Color (B): sc in the next 4sts, Using Color (C): 2sc in the last st (8sts)

Using Color (B)

• Rows 6-7: Sc in each st across (8sts for 2 rows)
• Row 8: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the last st (10sts)
• Rows 9-10: Sc in each st across (10sts for 2 rows)
• Row 11: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the last st (12sts)
• Rows 12-15: Sc in each st across (12sts for 4 rows)
• Row 16: Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog (10sts)
• Row 17: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog (8sts)
• Row 18: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog (6sts)
• Rows 19-20: Sc in each st across (6sts for 2 rows)
• Row 21: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog (4sts)
• Row 22: [Sc2tog] 2 times (2sts)
• Row 23: Sc2tog (1st)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends and set aside.

Outer Ear

Make 2

>Design Note: You will be working in rows to make the ear pieces. Turn and ch 1 at the end of each row.

Using Color (A)

• Ch 2
• Row 1: Working in the back bar of the chain 2sc in the 2nd ch from hook (2sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in the next 2sts (4sts)
• Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the last st (6sts)
• Row 4: Sc in each st across (6sts)
• Row 5: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the last st (8sts)
• Rows 6-7: Sc in each st across (8sts for 2 rows)
• Row 8: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the last st (10sts)
• Rows 9-10: Sc in each st across (10sts for 2 rows)
• Row 11: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the last st (12sts)
• Rows 12-15: Sc in each st across (12sts for 4 rows)
• Row 16: Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog (10sts)
• Row 17: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog (8sts)
• Row 18: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog (6sts)
• Rows 19-20: Sc in each st across (6sts for 2 rows)
• Row 21: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog (4sts)
• Row 22: [Sc2tog] 2 times (2sts)
• Row 23: Sc2tog (1st)
• Weave in the beginning tail.
• Lay the inner ear on top of the outer ear and line it up so the inner ear it’s lying on top facing you with the Color (C) portion at the top and the working yarn on the outer ear is positioned at the bottom.
• Now working up the right side of the ear and around the entire piece, sc the inner and outer ear together making sure to go through both pieces with each stitch. It was helpful for me to sc, ch1, sc in the same st at the top and bottom points of the ear to help round the corners evenly. This technique helps to round corners at any point where the piece may not be laying flat.

>Design Note: The stitching that you are making should have automatically faced towards the front of the ear. If it’s curving towards the back make sure that you started your work up the right side of the ear.

• When you make it around the entire outer edge sl st to the 1st st and fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the ear to the head.

Tail

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around (18sts for 2Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times (10sts)

Firmly stuff and shape your tail.

• Sl st, fasten off and leave a tail for attaching the tail to the body.

Antennae

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st (6sts)

>Design Note: After Rnd 4 you will insert the pipe cleaner and continue to crochet around it for the remainder of the piece.

• Rnds 3-7: Sc in each st around (6sts for 5Rnds)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnds 8-15: Sc in each st around (6sts for 8Rnds)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 16-55: Sc in each st around (6sts for 40 Rnds)
• Sl st, fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching to the head.
• Trim excess pipe cleaner flush with the top.

Back Patch

Make 1

Using Color (C) and working in rows

• Row 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle (5sts)
  Row 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook (5sts)
• Rows 2-3: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across (5sts for 2 rows)
• Row 4: Turn, ch1, 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the last st (7sts)
• Rows 5-7: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across (7sts)
• Row 8: Turn, ch1, 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 2sts, leave the remaining sts unworked (4sts)
• Row 9: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across (4sts)
• Row 10: Turn, ch1, [sc2tog] 2 times (2sts)
• Row 11: Turn, ch1, sc2tog (1st)
• Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to weave in.

You will now be working in the sts from Row 8 that were left unworked to create the other top half of the “heart” patch.

• Row 12: With the unworked sts from Row 8 on the top left side of the piece, sl st into the st closest to the finished portion (doesn’t count as a st), sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the last st (4sts)
• Row 13: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across (4sts)
• Row 14: Turn, ch1, [sc2tog] 2 times (2sts)
• Row 15: Turn, ch1, sc2tog (1st)
• Weave in all your other ends and then sc around the entire outer edge. If it’s difficult to nicely round any of the corners put 2sc in the same st. Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the back patch to the body.

Chest Marking

Make 1

Using Color (D)

• Ch 10
• Working in the back bars of the chain: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts (10sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the tummy patch. Weave in the beginning tail.

Assembly

Pin all your pieces together until you have the desired placement and then stitch securely in place with your tapestry needle.

>Design Tip: Remember to add more stuffing right before you finish closing up the attachment for the neck, legs, arms, nose, and tail. When you attach one piece to another it leaves a small gap that otherwise would not have any stuffing in it. Adding stuffing right up to the very end makes a piece feel more sturdy and look more professional.

>Design Tip: Take your time and stitch your pieces together stitch by stitch!

• After pinning everything in place, begin by attaching the head to the body. You may need to unpin portions of the other appendages to do this.
• Then attached the tummy patch. Once again, you may need to remove pins from various portions to be able to reach the panel for stitching. At the top of the panel, closest to the neck, make your stitches into the Color (B) portion of the head so that they blend together as one solid color.
• The nose is attached about a row above the Color (B) patch on the bottom of the head and central on the face. Stuff the nose before adding it to the head and right before closing up the last few stitches.
• The eyes are attached between about Rnds 7-14. Having pinned them for placement will ensure that you like how they are positioned. Stitch on the white spot.
• Stitch the ears on the sides of the head right beside the eyes. I stitched on the inside rows near the bottom (approximately 7sts) both in the front and on the back of the ear. If you only stitch on one side of the ear it is likely to be floppy. Stitching on both sides will make it stand up on its own.
• Both the arms and the legs overlap the tummy patch some when sewn on, the legs overlapping more than the arms.
• The antennae are placed on the top center of the head with the central adjustable circle start between them. They are then formed into a long S sort of shape. See pictures if needed.
• The head chest patch and back patch are centered and stitched on to their corresponding body part.
• The tail is centered under the back patch on the middle of the behind.

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Looking for More Great Patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Cursed Mr. Drippy 2. Mr. Drippy 3. Crochet Puppy Dog

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**Because this is fan art of a copyrighted character I cannot give you permission to sell products you’ve made using my pattern. It is for personal use only. You are welcome to share my photos and patterns on social media as long as you do so by using only 1-2 pictures and provide a link directly to my blog post for the pattern. A printable PDF option will NEVER be made available. You may not copy, republish, sell, distribute, translate without permission, or claim my photos, tutorials, or patterns as your own in any way. ** Thank you!