Cottage Garden Crochet Bunny

Today I’m so excited to introduce you to Patrick and Archie, the Cottage Garden Crochet Bunnies. Patrick and Archie are living their best lives, perfectly at home in the English countryside where they are the best of neighbors and the best of friends.

They’ve known each other for many years and enjoy talking over the fence about the weather and all that is growing in their gardens. From carrots, to cabbage, to potatoes and squash these handsome fellows have grown it all, and more. In fact, the only time their friendship is ever tested is at the County Cottage Fair each year when the vegetable judge comes around.

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Note: The patterns for both the Cottage Garden Crochet Bunny and his Jacket are included together in the inexpensive Ad-Free PDF!

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The Yarn

This project uses the well loved Lion Brand Yarn, Vanna’s Choice. Vanna’s Choice is a soft, acrylic (or mostly acrylic), worsted (size 4 – medium) weight yarn that comes in a wide variety of colors making it perfect for an extensive variety of projects from amigurumi, to garments, to home decor and more.

When using acrylic yarns it is one of my favorites to work with. I especially love the look of the heather options like Barley, Grey Marble, and Oatmeal for amigurumi animals, but all the colors are beautiful to work with.

The yarn is both machine washable and dryable, but on that note, I do not recommend machine washing amigurumi. Instead I recommend spot cleaning and air drying them if cleaning is necessary.

For typical use, the gauge on the label recommends:

Crochet Gauge (4″ x 4″)	12 sc x 15 rows using a size J-10 (6mm) hook
Knit Gauge (4″ x 4″)	16 sts x 22 rows using #9 (5.5 mm) needles

However, when making amigurumi a smaller hook than the label recommends is used. I recommend going no larger than a size E (3.5mm) hook when using worsted weight yarn to help make a more solid fabric. You don’t want your stuffing showing through!

Depending on the choice of color, the yarn makeup and yardage varies a little. The solids (100% acrylic) have a bit more yarn in each skein at 170 yards/ 3.5 oz while the prints, mists, and heathers (acrylic with rayon or other depending on the color) have 145 yards/ 3 oz and twists (100% acrylic) have 121 oz / 2.5 oz. Knowing the amount of yarn in a skein is good to be aware of when purchasing the yarn for a project. While there’s no worry about dye lot because this yarn has no dye lot, it’s never fun to run out of yarn mid project.

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Advanced Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Tapestry Needle
• Pins
• Safety Eyes, 15 mm (brown)
• Disc Needle Pullers (optional – great help when hand stitching to pull the needle through the fabric)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing
• Brown Bunny
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 145 yds/133 m, 3 oz/85 g): Color (A) Barley, used approx. 300 yds/ 274 m – 2 skeins
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 170 yds/156 m, 3.5 oz/100 g): Color (B) Linen, used approx. 124 yds/ 113 m, Color (C) Black, used approx. 2 yds/ 2 m
• Grey Bunny
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 145 yds/133 m, 3 oz/85 g): Color (A) Grey Marble, used approx. 300 yds/ 274 m – 2 skeins
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 170 yds/156 m, 3.5 oz/100 g): Color (B) Linen, used approx. 124 yds/ 113 m, Color (C) Black, used approx. 2 yds/ 2 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the head equal 2 inches in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the bunny measures approximately 12.25 inches tall.

Design Notes

• Pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• Pattern is written primarily in rounds, but does occasionally switch to using rows. The pattern will indicate when this occurs.
• It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and to move it up at the start of each additional round.
• At the end of each round/row the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes and tips are provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• ch – Chain
• FLO – front loop only
• hdc – half double crochet
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• sc – single crochet
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use the invisible decrease when working in the Rnd and a regular decrease when working in Rows)
• sl st – slip stitch
• st(s) – stitch(s)
• yo – yarn over
• [ ]/( ) – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring
• invisible join

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Note: The patterns for both the Cottage Garden Crochet Bunny and his Jacket are included together in the inexpensive Ad-Free PDF!

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Let’s Make Our Bunny!

Head

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (54sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (60sts)
• Rnds 11-18: Sc in each st around (60sts for 8Rnds)

>Design Note: The next several rounds will include switching colors back and forth within the round. Watch for these noted changes within the pattern instructions. In Rnd 19 some of the stitches will be worked in the FLO and some through both loops so watch for these changes as well.

>Design Tip: When changing colors on this design cut the ends and tie them in a square knot on the inside of the piece to ensure that the ends are extra secure.

• Rnd 19: Using Color (B) and working in FLO: [2sc in the next st] 15 times, working in both loops sc in the next 12sts, working in FLO [2sc in the next st] 15 times, Using Color (A) and working in both loops: sc in the next 18sts (90sts)

>Design Tip: When working the last 18sts in Row 19 and 20 the first of these sts sometimes hides under the last sts of Color (B) because the sts are more compact.

>Design Note: From here on, work through both loops and continue to change colors as indicated.

• Rnd 20: Using Color (B): [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times, sc in the next 12sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts] 6 times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 18sts (102sts)

>Design Note: The cheeks are created with extra stitches in them to create a rippled, puckered look. When stuffing, stuff adequately to shape the head but know that there should still be slight puckers in the cheeks.

• Rnds 21-22: Using Color (B): sc in the next 84sts, Using Color (A): sc in the next 18sts (102sts for 2Rnds)
• Rnd 23: Using Color (B): [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 14 times, Using Color (A): [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 3 times (85sts)
• Rnd 24: Using Color (B): [sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 15sts (73sts)
• Rnds 25-27: Using Color (B): sc in the next 58sts, Using Color (A): sc in the next 15sts (73sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 28: Using Color (B): [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 4 times, [sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 2 times, [sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts] 4 times, Using Color (A): [sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times (60sts)
• Rnd 29: Using Color (B): [sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 4 times, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 2 times, [sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 4 times, Using Color (A): [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times (47sts)

Add the eyes. Find the center front and determine the desired placement.

>Design Tip: Suggested eye placement is between Rnd 14 & 15 and about 8sts apart (it will look about 6sts apart once the eyes are inserted). It may be helpful to look at Rnd 19 (where Color (B) starts). Locate, in the front, on both sides, where the sts were worked in the front loops only and the 12 sts between them (marked with yellow pins in the picture). The 12sts are the center front and are just slightly more raised than those sts worked only in the front loops. Move in 2sts from the edges of the front loop only sts, towards the center on both sides (into the 12sts section) and place the eyes in these two points.

• Rnd 30: Using Color (B): [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times, [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 2 times, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, Using Color (A): [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 3 times (34sts)
• Rnd 31: Using Color (B): sc in the next 28sts, Using Color (A): sc in the next 6sts (34sts)
• Rnd 32: Using Color (B): [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 7 times, Using Color (A): sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts (26sts)
• Rnd 33: Using Color (B): sc in the next 21sts, Using Color (A): sc in the next 5sts (26sts)
• Rnd 34: Using Color (B): [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 7 times, Using Color (A): sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (17sts)
• Rnd 35: Using Color (B): [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times,
  sc2tog, Using Color (A): sc in the next st, sc2tog (11sts)
• Rnd 36: Using Color (B): [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 3 times, sc2tog (7sts)
• Slst to the 1st st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole.

Arms

Make 2

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 9 times (27sts)
• Rnds 5-8: Sc in each st around (27sts for 4Rnds)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 9 times (18sts)
• Rnds 10-13: Sc in each st around (18sts for 4Rnds)

Begin to firmly stuff and shape the arm and continue to do so as the design progresses.

• Rnds 14-20: Sc in each st around (18sts for 7Rnds)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 8sts, leave the remaining sts unworked (8sts)

The next section will be worked in rows. Do so until directed to work again in rounds.

>Design Note: The numbering of the rows/rounds will NOT start over each time but will continue throughout the completion of the arm.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows and along the edge of a row and an invisible sc decrease when working in rounds.

• Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog (6sts)
• Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog (4sts)
• Row 24: Ch 1, turn [sc2tog] 2 times (2sts)
• Row 25: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog (1st)

Begin working in Rnds again. Mark the 1st hdc made in Rnd 26 as the new starting point.

• Rnd 26: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), place one hdc down the side edge of each of Rows 22-25 (4sts), sc in each of the sts skipped from Rnd 21 (10sts), hdc up the edge of Rows 22-25 (4sts), hdc in the st from Rnd 25 (19 total sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in next 4sts (17sts)
• Rnd 28: Hdc in next st, sc in next 2sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 8sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3sts, hdc in the next st (19sts)
• Rnds 29-35: Sc in each st around (19sts for 7Rnds)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching on one of the arms (this will be the left arm) and a shorter tail on the right arm (due to placement when joining the arms to the body a separate piece of yarn will be needed for stitching).
• Now mark a few of the stitches on the arms for reference later when attaching the arms to the body. On the right arm mark stitches 3 and 9 and mark stitches 1 and 14 on the left arm. Set the arms aside for later.

Feet and Body

>Design Note: The feet are made separately, joined together, and then the work progresses into making the body so they are a seamless piece. The feet are made similarly in construction to how the arms were made, working both rounds and rows. The starting point will change several times throughout the making of the feet and joining them to make the body. Watch for these changes noted in the pattern.

Feet

Make 2

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnds 6-9: Sc in each st around (30sts for 4Rnds)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in each st around (24sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 12-14: Sc in each st around (24sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 3 times (21sts)
• Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around (21sts for 2Rnds)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 8sts, leave the remaining sts unworked (8sts)

Begin to firmly stuff and shape the foot and continue to do so as the design progresses.

>Design Note: The next section will be worked in Rows. Do so until directed to work again in Rnds. The numbering of the rows/rounds will NOT start over each time but will continue throughout the completion of the foot.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows and along the edge of a row and an invisible sc decrease when working in rounds.

>Row 19 Design Note: When working Row 19 the new starting stitch for the leg will change, as it its worked in rows. The stitch marker from working the previous rounds can be removed. Also note that the original starting point when working the rounds will be worked past when making Row 19.

• Row 19: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog (this is the new starting point), sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog (10sts)
• Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog (8sts)
• Row 21: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog (6sts)
• Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog (4sts)
• Row 23: Ch 1, turn, [sc2tog] 2 times (2sts)
• Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog (1st)

Begin working in Rnds again. Mark the 1st hdc made in Rnd 25 as the new starting point.

• Rnd 25: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), place one hdc down the side edge of each of Rows 19-24 (6sts), sc in each of the sts skipped from Rnd 18 (9sts), hdc up the edge of Rows 19-24 (6sts), hdc in the st from Rnd 24 (22 total sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5sts (20sts)
• Rnd 27: Hdc in next 2sts, sc in next 2sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts, hdc in the next 2sts (16sts)
• Rnds 28-29: Sc in each st around (16sts for 2Rnds)
• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times (18sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times (21sts)
• Rnds 32-33: Sc in each st around (21sts for 2Rnds)
• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times (24sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
• If this is the first leg fasten off, mark st 24 with a stitch marker for later, and set the leg aside. If this is the second leg proceed with the pattern.
• Rnd 36: Sc in the next 8sts, leave the remaining sts unworked (8sts)

The feet will now be joined together.

• Rnd 37: Ch5, sc onto the left (first) leg in st number 24 (see image) (Mark this st with a stitch marker as the new starting point), sc in each st around the remainder of the leg (30 total sts), sc across the chain in the back bars of the chain (5sts), sc around the second leg (30sts), sc across the chain in both loops (5sts) (70sts total, not counting the Ch5 at the beginning)
• Rnd 38: Sc in each st around (70sts)

With the legs now joined the making of the body will commence. Firmly stuffing and shaping the body as the pattern progresses is especially important for the body. A lot of the shaping is done with the actual stitching, but filling the body out with stuffing is equally important.

• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 15sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4 sts] 5 times, sc in the next 5sts (80sts)
• Rnd 40: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 15sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5 sts] 5 times, sc in the next 5sts (90sts)
• Rnd 41: Sc in each st around (90sts)
• Rnd 42: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times, sc in the next 27sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 4 times, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 17sts (100sts)
• Rnd 43: Sc in each st around (100sts)
• Rnd 44: Sc in the next 45sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 45sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (96sts)
• Rnd 45: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 35sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 35sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog (90sts)
• Rnd 46: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 33sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 2 times, sc2tog, sc in the next 33sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (84sts)
• Rnd 47: Sc in each st around (84sts)
• Rnd 48: [Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 7 times (77sts)
• Rnd 49: Sc in each st around (77sts)
• Rnd 50: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 7 times (70sts)
• Rnd 51: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 7 times (63sts)
• Rnd 52: Sc in each st around (63sts)
• Rnd 53: Sc in the next 3sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts] 2 times, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts] 3 times, [sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 2 times (62sts)
• Rnd 54: Sc in the next 19sts, [sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 19sts (65sts)
• Rnd 55: Sc in the next 21sts, sc2tog, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts (67sts)
• Rnd 56: Sc in the next 22sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 21sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 14sts (71sts)
• Rnd 57: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 41sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog (67sts)
• Rnd 58: Sc in each st around (67sts)
• Rnd 59: Sc in the next st, [sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts] 6 times (61sts)
• Rnds 60-61: Sc in each st around (61sts for 2Rnds)
• Rnd 62: Sc in the next 16sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 14sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts (57sts)
• Rnds 63-65: Sc in each st around (57sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 66: Sc in the next 14sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 32sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts (55sts)
• Rnds 67-68: Sc in each st around (55sts for 2Rnds)
• Rnd 69: Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 22sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st (51sts)
• Rnd 70: Sc in each st around (51sts)
• Rnd 71: Sc in the next 16sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts (47sts)

Adding the Arms to the Body

It’s now time to incorporate the arms onto the body. Begin by marking a few stitches on the body to coordinate with those previously marked on the arms. On the body place stitch markers in stitches 16, 22, 39, and 45.

>Design Note: Rnd 72 is broken down into separate bullets to help make the joining process clearer. When the pattern indicates the need to join, the stitches should be those marked with the stitch markers placed earlier on the arms and body.

• Rnd 72:
  • Sc in the next 15sts,
  • Pick up the left arm (sts marked 1 and 14, long tail) and in st 1 insert the hook from the right side of the work to the wrong side of the work and then into st 16 on the body from the right side of the work to the wrong side of the work, yo, pull through the body and the arm (2 loops on the hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (sc made),
  • Sc in the next 12sts on the outside of the arm (the remaining 5 sts on the inside of the arm, between the joins, will remain unworked),
  • Now join st 14 of the arm to st 22 on the body (sts 17-21 of the body will remain unworked): on the arm insert the hook from the right side of the work to the wrong side of the work and then from the right side of the work to the wrong side of the work on the body, yo, pull through the body and the arm (2 loops on the hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (sc made, left arm joined),
  • Sc in the next 16sts across the front of the body,
  • Pick up the right arm (sts marked 3 and 9, short tail) and in st 9 insert the hook from the right side of the work to the wrong side of the work and then into st 39 on the body from the right side of the work to the wrong side of the work, yo, pull through the body and the arm (2 loops on the hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (sc made),
  • Sc in the next 12sts on the outside of the arm,
  • Now join st 3 of the arm to st 45 on the body (sts 40-44 of the body will remain unworked and the remaining 5sts on the inside of the arm, between the joins, will remain unworked): on the arm insert the hook from the right side of the work to the wrong side of the work and then from the right side of the work to the wrong side of the work on the body, yo, pull through the body and the arm (2 loops on the hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (sc made),
  • Sc in the next 2sts across the back of the body (61sts)
• Rnd 73: Sc in the next 15sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc2tog, sc in the next 16sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts (53sts)

• Working from the wrong side of the body, stitch the holes on the insides of the arms with a whip stitch that were left from joining in Rnd 72. Catch both loops of each st on each side and stitch all the way across. Tie off yarn to secure. (see image above)
• Rnd 74: Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 6sts, (sc2tog) 2 times] 2 times, [sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 2 times (43sts)
• Rnd 75: Sc in the next 20sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts (41sts)
• Rnd 76: Sc in each st around (41sts)
• Rnd 77: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2times, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (32sts)
• Rnd 78: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 4 times (28sts)
• Rnds 79-80: Sc in each st around (28sts for 2Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the head to the body.

Tail

Make 1

Using Color (B)

>Design Tip: Use the regular single crochet decrease when working in rows and the invisible decrease when working in rounds.

The first portion of the tail is going to be made in rows. It begins with a magic circle, and is then worked in turned rows.

Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

• Row 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st (8sts)
• Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st (10sts)
• Row 4: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st (12sts)
• Row 5: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st (14sts)
• Rows 6-8: Sc in each st across (14sts for 3 Rows)
• Row 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog (12sts)
• Row 10: Sc in each st across (12sts)
• Row 11: Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog (10sts)
• Rows 12-13: Sc in each st across (10sts for 2 Rows)
• Row 14: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog (8sts)
• Row 15: Sc in each st across (8sts)
• Row 16: Sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog (6sts)
• Row 17: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog (4sts)
• Row 18: [Sc2tog] 2 times (2sts)
• Row 19: Sc2tog (1st)
• Fasten off

Using Color (A)

>Design Note: From here the piece will be worked in continuous rounds. Do not chain or turn the work.

Looking at the tail piece just made, locate the bottom of the piece where the magic circle was made. With the right side facing out so the piece looks cupped, continue with the next Rnd.

• Rnd 1: Starting on the right side bottom: Sc 5sts across the bottom (the first st will be in about Row 3, the second about Row 2, and the third st will be in the center of the magic circle, 4th in about Row 2 and 5th about Row 3). Now working up the left side (in the side of the rows): sc2tog (use a regular decrease here), sc in the next 13 sts, 3sc in the very top st of the tail. Now working down the other side (in the side of the rows): sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog (use a regular decrease here) (36sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 14sts (39sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, [sc2tog] 2 times,
  sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts,
  [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st (31sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st (23sts)

Begin to stuff the tail and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. Stuff firmly, but don’t over stuff. It should be a bit flatter, but still puffy.

• Rnd 5: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog,
  sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts (16sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times (12sts)
• Sl st to the 1st st, fasten off. Leave a tail for sewing the hole shut. Leave an extra long tail if desired to weave down to the base of the tail near the magic circle, once the hole is closed, to be used for attaching the tail to the body. Alternatively, use a separate piece of yarn to attach the tail to the body. Sew the hole closed using the front loops of each of the sts until cinched closed.

Ears

Make 2

The ears are not stuffed.

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next 3sts] 2 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 3sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 3sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts (28sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts (32sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in each st around (32sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 14sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts (30sts)
• Rnds 9-16: Sc in each st around (30sts for 8Rnds)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts (28sts)
• Rnds 18-20: Sc in each st around (28sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts (26sts)
• Rnds 22-24: Sc in each st around (26sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts (24sts)
• Rnds 26-28: Sc in each st around (24sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st (22sts)
• Rnds 30-32: Sc in each st around (22sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 33: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 2 times (20sts)
• Rnds 34-36: Sc in each st around (20sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 37: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts] 2 times (18sts)
• Rnds 38-40: Sc in each st around (18sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 41: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts] 2 times (16sts)
• Rnd 42: Sc in each st around (16sts)
• Rnd 43: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts] 2 times (14sts)
• Rnd 44: Sc in the next st, leave the remaining sts unworked. Turn work, place the open top edges together, Ch1 and sl st top edges together. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the ear to the head (7sts).

Tummy Panel

Make 1

Using Color (B)

>Design Tip: Use the regular single crochet decrease and not the invisible decrease when working in rows.

• Ch8

Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

• Row 1: In the back bar of the foundation chain sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across (7sts)
• Row 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st (9sts)
• Row 3: Sc in each st across (9sts)
• Row 4: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st (11sts)
• Row 5: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st (13sts)
• Rows 6-8: Sc in each st across (13sts for 3Rows)
• Row 9: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st (15sts)
• Rows 10-11: Sc in each st across (15sts for 2Rows)
• Row 12: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st (17sts)
• Row 13: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st (19sts)
• Rows 14-24: Sc in each st across (19sts for 11Rows)
• Row 25: Sc2tog, sc in the next 15sts, sc2tog (17sts)
• Row 26: Sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog (15sts)
• Rows 27-28: Sc in each st across (15sts for 2Rows)
• Row 29: Sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog (13sts)
• Row 30: Sc in each st across (13sts)
• Row 31: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog (11sts)
• Row 32: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
• Row 33: Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
• Row 34: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (5sts)
• Row 35: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (3sts)
• Row 36: Sc2tog, sc in the next st (2sts)
• Weave in the starting tail.
• Ch1, DO NOT turn, sc along the entire outer edge of the tummy panel. When at the corners sc, ch1, sc in the same st to round the corner nicely, sl st to the first st to join and fasten off leaving a long tail to attach the tummy panel to the body.

Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire bunny and stitch securely into place.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• The head is positioned centered on the body at about Rnd 32-33. When stitching periodically stop and make sure that the head is remaining centered. Make adjustments as needed. Add additional stuffing right before closing up the hole.
• The ears are centered on the left and right sides of the head at about Rnd 5. Stitch both on the top and underneath the ear when attaching.
• The tummy panel is positioned centered on the front of the body about 4 rounds from the top of the body with the straight edge at the top.
• The tail is positioned on the bottom back of the body about 9 rounds up from the row of sts where the feet were joined together. Stitch around the entire base of the tail along the edge of Color (A) on the inside and the outside of the tail, but only at the base (approximately 6 rows high) so that the majority of the tail is left detached.

>Design Tip: If also making the Cottage Garden Jacket for the bunny it may be helpful to try the jacket on before adding the tail to ensure that the tail is low enough.

• The nose is hand stitched using a length of yarn (approximately 60 in long) and a tapestry needle. It is centered on the face about 2 rounds below the eyes. The widest part of the triangle starts between Rnd 17 and 18 in Color (A), is about 4sts wide, and extends down to between Rnd 21 and 22 into Color (B). The line below the nose extends from between Rnd 21 and 22 to between Rnds 24 and 25.
  • Looking at the face and using your left and right, not the bunny’s: Anchor the yarn into the head and come out at the top left point of the triangle nose. Go down diagonally to the right to the bottom point of the triangle and insert needle in this point, coming out on the top right point of the triangle. Pull the yarn through.
  • Insert needle in the bottom tip of the nose and come out at the bottom point of the line below the nose. Pull the yarn through.
  • Insert the needle back into the stitch at the bottom tip of the nose and come out on the inside next to the top left stitch of the nose. Pull the yarn through.
  • Insert the needle back into the stitch at the bottom tip of the nose and come out on the inside next to the top right stitch of the nose. Pull the yarn through.
  • Continue to repeat the last two steps until the nose is completely filled in.
  • Invisibly anchor the tail back into the head to secure the stitching.

The Jacket and Carrot Pattern

• The pattern for the Bunny’s Cottage Garden Jacket can be found HERE!
• The pattern for the Cottage Garden Crochet Carrots can be found HERE!

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This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using my social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!