Beginner Crochet Gnome

The beauty of the Beginner Crochet Gnome is that it can be easily customized for any occasion and requires very little stitching. The only piece you’ll need to stitch on is the hat and any of the extra embellishments you choose to add. The arms, nose, and beard are all added as you go making it a nearly seamless project.

The Beginner Crochet Gnome is also part of a Holiday Stashdown CAL hosted by #CALCentralCrochet. Learn more below under the Inspiration heading, then scroll to learn more about the yarn used, and find the free pattern at the bottom of the page. Happy Crocheting!

---

Already Have Something on Your Hook?

---

Prefer a Printable, Ad-Free PDF?

---

Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Please see the disclosure page if you would like further details.

---

The Inspiration

The Beginner Crochet Gnome was designed as part of the 2024 Stashdown Crochet Along on CAL Central, hosted in the CAL Central Facebook and Ravelry groups featuring twenty-two designers sharing a scrappy project that takes one skein or less to make. Each design was created with the idea that it can be used for holiday gift-giving, decor, or wrapping and be relatively quick to make. So many wins!

To make it even more fun, and to show even more possibilities for using up your stash, I’ve shown the Beginner Crochet Gnome made in worsted, sport, and size 10 crochet thread. Make one size or make them all, they’re all just perfect!

Why did I choose a Gnome for the CAL? If you’re familiar with my work (Hello, My Crochet Friend!), then you won’t be surprised that I have yet another gnome to add to the blog.

If you’re new here, Welcome! Let’s be Crochet Friends! As you take a stroll amongst the designs on the website you will find a variety of options to choose from, but I’m also becoming well known for my gnomes featuring various holidays and themes. Gnomes have become a thing we love together.

And yes, there will be more gnome styles to come along with other types of projects. I have so many ideas for gnomes, dolls, animals, monsters, aliens, robots, transportation, foods, etc. running through my mind, waiting to be brought to life and released into the world! If you have a request put it in the comments and I’ll add it to my list of future possibilities.

How the CAL Works

Every Monday from September 30th to December 16th, 2024, a new designer will share a new free crochet pattern. While making these fun designs you can chat with other crocheters in the groups, share your projects, and even enter for a chance to win giveaway prizes!

How To Join the 2024 Stashdown CAL

• You can join in by crocheting the patterns as you have time.
• Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CALCentralCrochet and #HolidayStashdownCAL on all social media.
• If you’d like to chat with other crocheters, join the CAL Central Crochet Facebook group, or visit this thread in the CAL Central Ravelry group.
• For updates and a list of the designers and the projects, to see the prizes and enter the giveaway, and to find even more details, visit our host, Marie at the Underground Crafter HERE.
• By the end of the CAL, you’ll have up to 22 fabulous winter holiday projects.

Did Someone Say Prizes?!?!!

CAL Central has partnered with Crochet Foundry, Cutpie Studio, GlassEyesOnline, Hooked for Life, KennyClayCo, KnitPal, Knitter’s Relief Balm, LumosLumos, and Unicorn have generously provided us with fabulous prizes for our end-of-CAL giveaway. Don’t forget to enter the giveaway in this post on Underground Crafter by 11:59 p.m. on December 31, 2024!

If you’re reading this after these dates you can still access past CALs, so have a look and find some projects to make, but prizes won’t be available until the next CAL is announced.

---

---

These Patterns May Also Be of Interest!

---

The Yarn

The Beginner Crochet Gnome was made using Brava Worsted, then for fun, I also made him using Brava Sport for a medium version and then again in Curio size 10 crochet thread for a miniature version. The Brava yarns are both acrylic yarns that come in a wide range of colors. The Curio is a 100% cotton thread that too comes in many colors. All of them can be found on the WeCrochet or Knit Picks website.

If you’re interested I’ve done an entire post on the Brava yarn that you can find HERE.

Substitutions

Any brand of acrylic or cotton yarn or thread should work well for making the Beginner Crochet Gnome, but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

Making the Beginner Crochet Gnome in bulky yarns (thicker than worsted) has not been tested, but it should also likely work well, just make sure that any necessary hook size adjustments are made to accommodate the chosen yarn.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreation and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations.

---

The Pattern

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Polly Pellets (optional)
• Nylon Stocking (optional) 
• Funnel (optional for adding Poly Pellets)
• Measuring cup (optional for adding Poly Pellets)
• Hat embellishments (i.e. buttons, jingle bell, pom pom, etc.) (optional)
• Embroidery Thread, Black (DMC 310) and Embroidery Needle for the patches (optional)
• Sewing Thread and Needle for stitching buttons (optional)
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Brava Worsted (worsted 4-Medium, 100% Premium Acrylic, 218 yds/199 m, 3.5 oz/100 g), Color (A) Cream, used approx. 10 yds/9 m, Color (B) White, used approx. 16 yds/15 m, *Color (C), 1st body color, used approx. 35+ yds/32+ m, *Color (D), 2nd body color, used approx. 24+ yds/23+ m
• *Yarn Note: The amount of yarn used for Colors (C) and (D) will depend on the preferred color used for making the hat. Add approx 35 yds/32 m for the hat in the chosen color. A few yards/meters is also needed if making patches.

Variations: 

• Brava Worsted versions shown in Cream, White, and Color (C) and (D) combinations: Dublin and Silver, Dublin and Wine, and Solstice Heather and Silver. 

• Brava Sport version shown in Cream, White, Dublin, and Coral.

• Curio #10 Thread version shown in Bare, White, Hollyberry, and Whisker.

Gauge

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn the first 6 rounds of the body measure approx. 2 inches (5.1 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size B/1 (2.25 mm) and sport yarn the first 6 rounds of the body measure approx. 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size 1.5 mm and size 10 crochet thread the first 6 rounds of the body measure approx. 13/16 inch (2.06 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn the Beginner Crochet Gnome measures approx. 5.5 inches (14 cm) tall. 
• Using hook size B/1 (2.25 mm) and sport yarn the Beginner Crochet Gnome measures approx. 5 inches (12.7 cm) tall. 
• The miniature Beginner Crochet Gnome in the images was made using Size 10 crochet thread and a 1.50 mm hook. It measures approx. 2.75 inches (7 cm) tall.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
• At the end of each round, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
• The yarn under method was used when designing this piece, the yarn over method can also be used but will potentially create a slightly larger character.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• approx  – approximately
• bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• MR – magic ring (AKA magic circle, adjustable ring)
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• RSC – Reverse Single Crochet / Crab st (described below under special stitches)
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• yo – yarn over (or yarn under based on the technique being used)
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parenthesis as many times as directed

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in the pattern. 

To create a 3dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)

RSC – Reverse Single Crochet /Crab Stitch: The reverse single crochet or crab stitch is created just like a single crochet stitch, except in reverse, working into the stitch to the right of the hook instead of the stitch to the left. Begin with a ch 1, *then insert the hook into the first stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops on the hook.* Repeat from * to * for the entire edge as directed in the pattern. 

>Design Note: It may take several stitches before the stitch pattern is visible. This is a fun stitch to use for easy, decorative borders and finished edges.

---

Prefer a Printable, Ad-Free PDF?

Visit My Shops!

---

Save This Pattern for Later!

---

Let’s Make Our Beginner Crochet Gnome!

Making the Weighted Base

The weighted base is not necessary to make the Beginner Crochet Gnome, but it can help him to sit more upright on his own due to the front-heavy nature of his nose and beard.

• Pour approx. 2 ounces (1/3 cup) of Poly-Pellets (less for the smaller gnomes) into the toe of a nylon stocking. Working the stocking from the outside, get the Poly-Pellets as far down into the stocking as possible. Knot the top to secure and cut.
• Set aside for later.

>Design Note: Several Poly-Pellet “bundles” can be made from one adult knee-high stocking depending on how it is tied and cut each time. The toe does not need to be tied, but after that, simply knot the beginning and end of each bundle if making more than one.

>Other Filler Options: Poly-Pellets are my go to filler, but in a pinch other items can be used to add weight to the Beginner Crochet Gnome like glass marbles, pea gravel, etc. Just consider who the recipient will be and make sure that the filler is contained within a stocking and/or will not slip through the crochet stitches. It is NOT advised to use edibles like popcorn, rice, or beans as they may attract rodents or bugs and if moistened will sprout, ruining the project. 

---

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A) 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (15sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off.
• Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Set aside for later.

---

Beard

Make 1

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The beard is not stuffed.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (8sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (10sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (14sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (20sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (22sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (26sts)

In the next two Rnds, the nose is added seamlessly to the beard. 

• Rnd 12: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, join the bottom of the nose to the beard: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the beard from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the beard and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and beard sts together for the next 3sts, on the beard: sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (28sts)

• Rnd 13: Sc in the next 16sts, now join the top of the nose to the beard: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into the next unworked st on the nose closest to the hook from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the beard from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the beard and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and beard sts together for the next 3sts, on the beard: sc in the next 8sts. (28sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (28sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 26sts, leave the remaining 2sts unworked. (26sts)

• Press the top edge of the beard flat so the nose is centered on the front of the beard and the sts line up. The final st should leave the working st at the right edge of the work (add or remove sts as needed). Sc the edges together. (14sts) >Design Note: It’s important that 14sts are achieved as they will be used later to seamlessly join the beard to the body.
• Fasten off and set aside for later. 

---

Hand and Arm

Make 2

Using Color (A)

>Design Note: The hand and arm are made from the bottom up. The arm will be worked in stripes. There is no need to fasten off the colors each time, simply drop and pick up the colors as needed. 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 4sts, bo in the next st, sc in the next 4sts. (9sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (8sts)

Switch to Color (C) 

• Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around. (8sts for 3 Rnds)

Firmly stuff and shape the hand but leave the rest of the arm unstuffed.

Switch to Color (D) 

• Rnds 9-11: Sc in each st around. (8sts for 3 Rnds)

Switch to Color (C) 

Fasten off and set aside for later.

• Rnds 12-13: Sc in each st around. (8sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 2sts, leave the remaining 6sts unworked. (2sts)
• Press the top edge of the arm flat so the thumb is parallel with the flattened edge and the sts line up. The final st should leave the working st at the right edge of the work. Add or remove sts as needed to achieve this. Sc the edges together. (4sts) >Design Note: It’s important that 4sts are achieved as they will be used later to seamlessly join the arm to the body.
• Set aside for later.

---

Body (& Head)

>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom up. It will be worked in stripes at the bottom and be solid at the top. There is no need to fasten off the colors each time, simply drop and pick up the colors as needed. 

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnds 8-9: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 2 Rnds)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnds 10-12: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 3 Rnds)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnds 13-15: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 3 Rnds)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnds 16-18: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 3 Rnds)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnds 19-20: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 2 Rnds)

In the next Rnd, the top of the arms are joined seamlessly to the body. When adding them make sure that the thumbs are facing forward.  

• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 9sts, join the left arm to the body: With the working loop on the hook, insert hook into the st on the arm (furthest from the thumb) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 16sts, join the right arm to the body: With the working loop on the hook, insert hook into the st on the arm (closest to the thumb) from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts together for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 9sts. (42sts)

In the next Rnd, the beard is joined seamlessly to the body.  

• Rnd 22: Sc in the next 14sts, join the beard to the body: With the working loop on the hook, insert hook into the far right st on the beard from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the beard, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the beard and body sts together for the next 13sts, on the body: sc in the next 14sts. (42sts)
• Rnds 23-25: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 3 Rnds)  
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (30sts)
• Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)

If using, add the weighted base, settling it down into the very bottom of the body. Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.  

• Rnd 29: Sc in the next st, sc2tog, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next st. (18sts)
• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.

---

Hat

Make 1

Using Color (C or D) as preferred 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnds 3-4: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 6-7: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnds 9-10: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnds 12-13: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
• Rnds 15-16: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnds 18-19: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 20: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 21-22: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (54sts)

>Design Note: The next 4 Rnds create the brim.

• Rnd 25: In FLO: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 4sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 5sts. (72sts)
• Rnd 28: RSC in each st around. (72sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch the hat to the body. Using a tapestry needle, slip the tail through the top of the first RSC. If there is a gap, wrap the yarn tail around the edge of the brim a few times to mimic the other RSC. Then weave the tail to Rnd 24, above the brim, for stitching the hat to the body. 
• Set aside for later.

---

Patches for Embellishing the Hat

(Optional)

Make 2

Using Color (C or D) as preferred

• Ch 5
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (4sts)
• Rows 2-4: Turn, sc in each st across. (4sts for 3Rnds) 
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the patch to the hat. Weave in the starting tail.

---

Assembly

Position all the pieces to determine the desired placement for the Beginner Crochet Gnome and stitch them securely. 

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Embellishing the Hat: (Optional) – Patches, buttons, jingle bells, pom poms, sequins, beads, embroidery, etc. are all great options for embellishing the hat. Keep in mind, that Rnds 25-28 create the brim of the hat, so it may be desirable to keep the embellishments above the brim or it may be fun to embellish just the brim.
  • Patches – Pictured, the two patches are placed over approx. Rnds 7-13 and Rnds 18-24 of the hat and using the tail were stitched around each side of the patch. Embroidery floss was then used to add two dashed lines to each side of the patches. Six strands of floss were used, with each dashed line stitched twice for a thicker appearance (>Design Note: On the miniature, thread version the dashed lines were stitched once).
  • Buttons – The buttons were randomly dispersed and stitched onto the hat, above the brim, according to what looked aesthetically pleasing.
• Hat: Pull the hat down over the body so Rnd 24 (above the brim) rests at the top of the beard and arms. Tack the hat to the body at Rnd 24 so it remains flush against the beard and arms and stays securely in place. 

---

Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!

As always, I’d love to see your creation if you’re willing to share! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, and Instagram (tag @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!

Also, remember that the best way to always be in the loop about new patterns, techniques, tutorials, giveaways, and crafty fun is to subscribe to the newsletter! Thanks for your support!

---

Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!