Bat Wing Crochet Shawl

You could possibly say that the Bat Wing Crochet Shawl is one of those things that you didn’t know you wanted and needed to have in your life. This is especially the case if you’re planning to be the most eye-catching vampire ever for Halloween. This design went through quite the evolution in its creation, but in the end tuned out to be something that in vampire speak, is worth sinking your teeth into.  It holds a touch of feminine and vintage with a bit whimsical flair. The i-cord lacing down the back will bring an unexpected surprise to the wearer and the beholders.

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The Inspiration

The Bat Wing Shawl is one of those designs that with some coaxing, jumped out of the yarn and flew off the hook. Let me tell you how it happened! I had sketched out a few general design ideas that I wanted to play around with. While making swatches for this, at one point I decided to add a little knob at the end of one of the rows. The rest is history!

Looking at what I had in my hands my mind read, Wow! If I modified this a bit more this would make a fun bat’s wing. I fiddled with it a bit more and sure enough, it could work. I’d need to go back to the drawing board, but there was potential.

After switching to black yarn, drawing a few more sketches, frogging several times, and getting input from hubby a couple of times, the design was well on its way. About this same time my daughter came into the room, saw what I was making, and announced that she wanted it for her vampire Halloween costume.

Originally I thought that I would make black wings that sloped down on each side with the distinctive arches along the bottom, but being that this had now distinctly become a lady vampire’s shawl I decided to modify it yet a bit more to give it some feminine touches. The center of the shawl is designed so it comes up on the back of the neck like a vampire’s cloak but without the full collar. The shawl then drapes over the shoulders, curving inward a degree before curving back out near the bust to hang long in the front. The asymmetry of the front and the back are a particular favorite. The i-cord lacing down the back adds yet another feminine flair.

The Yarn

I chose to use Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft for this pattern. This yarn is a silky, soft acrylic yarn that has good drape and is easy to care for. I have used this particular yarn for several projects in the past and have always been pleased with how it’s worked up. This project proved to also be a success in my book.

I will note, however, that because the yarn is a somewhat slicker than other acrylic yarns, making the i-cord at first, was somewhat trickier. I’ve never made an i-cord using the Caron Simply Soft Yarn, so it was behaving a bit differently than I was used to when making i-cords. It may also be helpful to note that it may have been the particular skein that I was using, but the strands periodically tried to separate when I reinserted my hook into the dropped loops. This was easily remedied by making sure that when I reinserted my hook into the loop that I did, in fact, make it through all 4-ply strands of the loop before I chained one.

Honestly, I practiced a bit with the yarn, and once I had familiarized myself with how the yarn behaved I redid the entire i-cord and didn’t have any further issues. You might not experience any of this, but I wanted you to be aware just in case.

It may also be fun to note if you don’t happen to be familiar with this particular yarn, that it comes in a wide variety of beautiful colors.

The Pattern

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size H/8 (5.0 mm) 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Tapestry Needle
• Pins
• Blocking Mats (These blocking mats are great if you need a grid but for a cheaper alternative I use these mats)
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Black, 3 skeins, Color (B) Harvest Red, 1 skein

Gauge

Using hook size H/8 (5.0 mm), 17 stitches and 9 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in double crochet, not blocked

Finished Measurements

Blocked, at its widest, measures 71 inches (180 cm) wide by 20.5 inches (52 cm) tall

Design Notes

• The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written in turned rows.
• At the end of each row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• The chain 3 at the beginning of each row counts as a stitch.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• ch – Chain
• dc – double crochet
• dcdec – double crochet decrease (see special stitches below)
• i-cord (Learn how to make an i-cord HERE)
• MR – magic ring (aka. magic circle, adjustable ring)g
• rep – repeat
• Row(s) – Rows
• sc – Single crochet
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)

Special Stitches

+To create a dcdec – double crochet decrease

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook),
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over and pull through all three loops. (dcdec completed)

Let’s Make Our Shawl!

Pattern Note: The pattern was updated on 3.8.24 omitting several duplicate rows accidentally placed in the pattern. Some tips, special stitch definitions, and wording clarification were also added to make the pattern more understandable and accessible. The overall integrity of the pattern remains the same as previously written, minus those mistaken duplicate rows.

Wings

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Row 1: Work 2dc in MR, turn. (2sts)
• Row 2: Ch3 (counts as a st here and throughout), dc in the same st, 2dc in the next st, turn. (4sts)
• Row 3: Ch3, dc in the same st, dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, dc in the last st, turn. (6sts)
• Row 4: Ch3, dc in each st across, turn. (6sts)
• Row 5: Ch3, dc in the same st, dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 2sts, 2dc in the last st, turn. (9sts)

In the next Row, the first decorative point is created, followed by crocheting the row.

• Row 6: Decorative point: Ch3, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st in the next ch, sl st into the last st of the previous row (The decorative point has now been created. The 3sts of the point will NOT be worked into in the following row here and throughout the pattern when a point is created). The Row: Ch3 (counts as a st), use the 1st st (same st used for the last sl st of the point and ch3) and 2nd st to dcdec, dc in each st across, turn. (point + 9sts)
• Row 7: Ch3, dc in the same st, dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, dc in each st up to the last 2sts, dcdec, turn. (10sts)
• Row 8: Ch3, use the 1st and 2nd st to dcdec, dc in each st across, turn. (10sts)
• Row 9: Ch3, dc in the same st, dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, dc in each st up to the last 2sts, dcdec, turn. (11sts)
• Row 10: Ch3, dc in the same st, dc in each st across, turn. (12sts)
• Row 11: Ch3, dc in the same st, dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, dc in each st up to the final st, 2dc in the last st, turn. (15sts)
• Row 12: Ch3, dc in the same st, dc in each st across, turn. (16sts)
• Row 13: Ch3, dc in the same st, dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, dc in each st up to the final st, 2dc in the last st, turn. (19sts)

In the next Row, another decorative point is created, followed by crocheting the row.

• Row 14: Decorative point: Ch3, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the next ch, sl st into the last st of the previous row. The Row: Ch3 (counts as a st), use the 1st st (same st used for the last sl st of the point and ch3) and 2nd st to dcdec, dc in each st across, turn. (point + 19sts)

>Design Note: For Rows 15-62 the instructions for Rows 7-14 will be repeated 6 more times. Each repeat has been noted below for ease of remembering which repeat should be worked during which row and knowing how many sts there should be once the row is completed.

• Row 15: Repeat Row 7 (20sts)
• Row 16: Repeat Row 8 (20sts)
• Row 17: Repeat Row 9 (21sts)
• Row 18: Repeat Row 10 (22sts)
• Row 19: Repeat Row 11 (25sts)
• Row 20: Repeat Row 12 (26sts)
• Row 21: Repeat Row 13 (29sts)
• Row 22: Repeat Row 14 (29sts)
• Row 23: Repeat Row 7 (30sts)
• Row 24: Repeat Row 8 (30sts)
• Row 25: Repeat Row 9 (31sts)
• Row 26: Repeat Row 10 (32sts)
• Row 27: Repeat Row 11 (35sts)
• Row 28: Repeat Row 12 (36sts)
• Row 29: Repeat Row 13 (39sts)
• Row 30: Repeat Row 14 (39sts)
• Row 31: Repeat Row 7 (40sts)
• Row 32: Repeat Row 8 (40sts)
• Row 33: Repeat Row 9 (41sts)
• Row 34: Repeat Row 10 (42sts)
• Row 35: Repeat Row 11 (45sts)
• Row 36: Repeat Row 12 (46sts)
• Row 37: Repeat Row 13 (49sts)
• Row 38: Repeat Row 14 (49sts)
• Row 39: Repeat Row 7 (50sts)
• Row 40: Repeat Row 8 (50sts)
• Row 41: Repeat Row 9 (51sts)
• Row 42: Repeat Row 10 (52sts)
• Row 43: Repeat Row 11 (55sts)
• Row 44: Repeat Row 12 (56sts)
• Row 45: Repeat Row 13 (59sts)
• Row 46: Repeat Row 14 (59sts)
• Row 47: Repeat Row 7 (60sts)
• Row 48: Repeat Row 8 (60sts)
• Row 49: Repeat Row 9 (61sts)
• Row 50: Repeat Row 10 (62sts)
• Row 51: Repeat Row 11 (65sts)
• Row 52: Repeat Row 12 (66sts)
• Row 53: Repeat Row 13 (69sts)
• Row 54: Repeat Row 14 (69sts)
• Row 55: Repeat Row 7 (70sts)
• Row 56: Repeat Row 8 (70sts)
• Row 57: Repeat Row 9 (71sts)
• Row 58: Repeat Row 10 (72sts)
• Row 59: Repeat Row 11 (75sts)
• Row 60: Repeat Row 12 (76sts)
• Row 61: Repeat Row 13 (79sts)
• Row 62: Repeat Row 14 (79sts)
• Row 63: Ch3, dc in each st up to the last 2sts, dcdec, turn. (78sts)
• Row 64: Ch3, use the 1st and 2nd st to dcdec, dc in each st across, turn. (78sts)
• Row 65: Ch3, dc in each st up to the last 2sts, dcdec, turn. (77sts)
• Row 66: Ch3, dc in the same st, dc in each st across, turn. (78sts)
• Row 67: Ch3, dc in each st up to the final st, 2dc in the last st, turn. (79sts)
• Row 68: Ch3, dc in each st across, turn. (79sts)
• Row 69: Ch3, dc in each st up to the final st, 2dc in the last st, turn. (80sts)

In the next Row, another decorative point is created, followed by crocheting the row.

• Row 70: Decorative Point: Ch3, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the next ch, sl st into the last st of the previous row. The Row: Ch3 (counts as a st), use the 1st st (same st used for the last sl st of the point and ch3) and 2nd st to dcdec, dc in each st across, turn. (point + 80sts)
• Row 71: Ch3, dc in each st up to the last 2sts, dcdec, turn. (79sts)
• Row 72: Ch3, use the 1st and 2nd st to dcdec, dc in each st across, turn. (79sts)
• Row 73: Ch3, dc in each st up to the last 2sts, dcdec, turn. (78sts)
• Row 74: Ch3, dc in each st across, turn. (78sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.
• Block the wing pieces.

I-Cord

Make 1

Using Color (B)

Need help making the I-Cord? The step-by-step tutorial with pictures found HERE can help!

>Design Notes: The first 22 rows of the i-cord = 4 inches/10 cm

• Row 1: Ch2
• Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and draw up a loop. (2 loops on hook)
• Row 1: Carefully drop 1 loop from hook. Holding onto the dropped loop with your non-dominant hand (the one not holding the hook) so it doesn’t come undone when you do the next part, ch1, insert hook into the dropped loop, ch 1 (2 loops on hook).
• Rows 2-458: Repeat Row 1.

>Design Note: You can determine how long or short you want your i-cord to be based on personal preference. This length allowed me to lace it down the back and tie a bow with a knot in it to keep it secure. If at any point you want to test the length of your i-cord, use a stitch marker to slip through both working loops to secure the i-cord from unraveling. Once the desired length is achieved proceed with the instructions as directed.

• Finish your i-cord by slip stitching through each loop on the hook. Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to stitch the first and last sl st together (to keep a tubular shape). Weave in the ends.

Assembly

Once the wings are blocked lay them side by side, flat edges lying next to each other. Starting at the top, lace down the back like you would a shoe. I put one end through each side between the first and 2nd dc, made sure that the lengths were equal on both sides, and from there skipped two dc before putting the i-cord through again. There are many ways that you can lace this. Personally, I made sure that when I was crossing my cord lengths that the left always crossed over the right and when I went through a hole that I went from the top down through the hole rather than from the bottom up. Experiment and see what you like best.

When I reached the bottom I tied a bow and then tied the bow in a knot. You may need to fiddle with it a little bit until you’re satisfied with how it looks.

Alternate Assembly

If you don’t like the look of the i-cord going down the back you can simply seam the two pieces down the middle with a tapestry needle and a length of yarn.

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Looking for more great Halloween patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Simple Crochet Spider 2. Crochet Candy Corn Cuties 3. Crochet Candy Corn Bunting

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